Ford - Escort :: 1992 - Cannot Get Transmission Out Of Park / Car Won't Go Into Gear
Jan 16, 2013
I have a 1992 Ford Escort. It's a junker (literally - it has a recovered title, the car having been totaled at some time in the past), but it gets me around. Or, it did.
The battery went dead a while back, and I'd been using the wife's car. She had to be out of town, so I got a new battery. Car started right up, but I couldn't get the transmission out of Park. I think there are switches to make sure that the brake is on, etc., that have to be made before the car can be put into gear. Is there anything I can do? Where are these switches? Obviously, I can't drive the car to a shop, and I'd prefer not to have it towed unless there's no alternative.
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Girlfriend has a '92 automatic. Transmission's been acting up for several months, periodically not wanting to shift into higher gears. Now, it will not shift at all after the first one, about 20 mph. Engine whines, but has power up to about 50 mph. Odometer states 64,xxx miles but don't know if accurate.
Need info on possible causes, other than total rebuild. Been reading about speed sensors, shift solenoids, control modules, as well as replacing fluid/filter and adding a treatment.
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I have a 1996 escort wagon with strange auto transmission behavior. Sometimes during the summer months but mostly during the winter; the transmission will start off in 3rd gear from a stop and won't go any higher or lower. If I drive it around for a while, it will suddenly shift into 4th then the transmission will act normally for a while then for no reason will just suddenly start off in 3rd gear from a dead stop. It has been doing this for about 8 months now. 146k miles. I have tried shifting through all the gears manually. It will drop down into first when I put the lever there, but when I move the lever back up into drive, it goes right back into 3rd.
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I have a 2002 ZX2 Escort Automatic and after driving it one morning, that night it wouldn't go after putting it in gear, all that happened was the rpm would go up than after a lil bit the car wouldn't move. I Noticed fluid all over the ground and didn't think nothing of it, anyway what to do?
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I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
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I've got a 92 star with a 4.0 liter engine and I think a 4ald auto trans. When I 1st start the motor it takes 3-4 minuted before it will go into gear. after that it's fine. I've tightened the 2 bolts under the dash tightening up the shifter and my fluid level is fine.
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1992 Escort GT 1.8 liter ... It's been a problem for a while, where I'll just be driving (or at a stoplight) and the engine dies. It doesn't sputter or give any signs (that I know of) before it goes. Usually if I let it sit for a while, generally under an hour, it'll start right up again and run for a few days and then happen again. The engine light will sometimes come on, but only after I get it started up again, and it never stays on for long. The other day, it died on my way to work and didn't start up again for a few days, but the engine light was on, and gave a code 23. I think this means I should get the throttle sensor fixed.
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My 2001 Escort has two intermittent issues which I think are related. At times the car does not start when turning the key to start position there no clicking and engine does not turn over. but all other electric work. Battery and starter have been tested and both passed. Second issue is some times when it starts the shift lever will not move out of the park position. Does this car needs to have the break depressed before it will start and come out of park and could a safety switch be the cause?
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Reverse band broke in my C4, I took it apart enough to get the rear band out and then reassembled. Everything to my knowledge was seated correctly and the front pump seated flush with the case when I reinstalled (which is supposedly a sign that it is all seated correctly). I adjusted the bands to spec and replaced the vacuum modulator and torque converter. These were the only things replaced besides the reverse/low band. Vac modulator was replaced to original (yellow band) as I was running an adjustable before. TC was replaced just because I did not the last time I had the trans rebuilt in 2003....decided to go ahead and R&R.
I got everything assembled, filled up with fluid and no leaks. I start it up and once i finished topping it off, the truck moves forward in every gear... including park! It also seems that I'm missing a shift detent. I have P, R, N, D, 2 but no 1. I disconnected the shift linkage and tried manually shifting from the trans and have the same issue.
I did not open up the valve body, just unbolted and replaced. When you start it up, it doesn't jump forward (while in park) but when you rev it up it sounds like the motor is under load. I've consulted my Haynes C4 book and an extensive google search and no way...
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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I have a 99 passat wagon - it hasn't been shifting right - sometimes it won't shift out of park, other times it won't sift out of 1st... we are wondering if it is worth fixing or if we should find a different car...
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I have a 92' Escort GT and the clutch started to act up, it's not burnt cause it is fairly new. The clutch pedal feels slightly looser when pushing it to the floor, the feeling like a cable snapped or something?
I'm pretty sure the clutch is a hydraulic one, not 100% .. Is there a hydraulic reservoir that somewhere that might be low?
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My 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
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It started this morning. It has a strange rattle when you shift gears or just wiggle the gear shift and when you close the driver side doors it rattles a little. It sounds almost like the exhaust is rattling but when you are in the car it is all around the shifter. It changes gears just fine. Had a new clutch back in 07. I was thinking maybe the shift linkage is just loose and needs tightening? 97 manual, 191,000
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I have my suspicion about what is the culprit, and well, the likelihood of it contuing to work.
Occasionally when I am at a stop and try to shift into gear with the clutch depressed to the floor, it does not want to go into gear. So far, I have been able to wiggle the shifter around, try a few different gears then go back to first and it works. Also at a stoplight today, with the clutch depressed to the floor for a few minutes with the car in 1st, after about 3-5 minutes the car started to slowly creep forward.
What are your suspects on this one?
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In Drive the engine revs but wont accelerate more than 25mph. D1, D2, and reverse work as usual. Fluid is dark, but no debris, no burnt smell. Should I change the fluid & filter? The shop said that would make it worse.
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92 PA, 134,000 miles
I'm constantly getting a 'Code 41' and now my fuel economy is almost 100 miles less than usual on a full tank. I was wondering what could be causing the decrease of fuel economy?
Also, direct me to the location of the cam sensor and the directions for replacing. I've tried the AutoZone site to locate it but it was difficult to decipher.
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92 PA Base ... Attempting to replace water pump. Is a hydraulic jack required to hold up the engine when removing the engine mount? The engine mount (passenger side front) is covering the right portion of the water pump. Although the engine mount has two holes for the remainder bolts of the water pump, there's no room to fit a ratchet or anything to remove the remaining two bolts. It appears the mount must be removed to replace the water pump. Is this so? How to correctly remove the engine mount.
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95 Ford Escort 1.9L, 330,000 miles. Never changed the clutch and i bought it with 80k on it. With that said the clutch never slipped and a lot of this is highway mileage so i never saw a reason to change the clutch just because.
Last week i pulled into the driveway i depressed the clutch pedal as i normally do and as i slowed, the car bucked like it was still in gear and didn't recognize the clutch was depressed. When it started bucking i tried to pull the gear shifter to neutral but it wouldn't move, the car finally died in it's parking spot. I quickly popped the hood and had my son press the clutch in and out and all components seemed to be moving fine, i was mainly looking at the slave cylinder assuming since it's a hydraulic clutch if it was a hydraulic issue that wouldn't move if i didn't have hydraulic pressure.
No obvious leaks were noted, i looked at the master cylinder and it seemed a little low but not empty maybe just above min. I filled it to max and still no change. So i assumed it was the clutch finally disintegrated and locked up. Yesterday i got in the car to attempt to move it to the garage to work on it. It started up fine, shifted through all gears with no issue's, drove it around for about 15minutes shifting a lot and pressing the clutch randomly and it worked fine.
I brought it back home and tried to kill it a few more times before i got it to the garage, it finally locked again but it was in neutral and i couldn't get into any gear. Turned the car off and then restarted and it shifted into gear, i pulled it into the garage and stopped with no other issue's.
Checked closer for leaks, between master and slave and couldn't find any. Pulled speedo cable and checked trans fluid, its brownish red (more brownish) and thin but didn't really smell burnt and it is at the correct level. Linkage has some slop in it but i don't see it binding anywhere, i layed under the car and was able to move linkage in/out of gear with my hand. It's easy enough to say the clutch is well over due for changing but since there were no signs of a failing clutch when i drove it i think i need to look elsewhere.
Could it be worn fluid? Could it be debris in the line? Or could it be that the fork just isn't engaging or disengaging properly due to wear?
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I have a 1992 Honda Accord with an automatic transmission and recently I've started having some problems. About 3 weeks ago I noticed that, when I parked my car and put the shifter in "Park", the shifter became locked in this position. In other words, I cannot release the shifter from "Park" unless I use the car key to unlock the shifter. So, I started parking my car in neutral (there are few hills in my area) so that I didn't have to unlock the shifter each time. Occasionally I park the car in "Reverse" (after turning the car off), although I have to put the car in neutral to start it up.
Today I started my car and noticed that I had very little acceleration. In fact, when I was on a slight incline, waiting to pull out into an intersection, it was difficult to keep my car from rolling backward. Also, when I pulled out into the intersection, it accelerated very slowly and took much longer than usual to get up to normal speed. However, after the car sat for 5 hours afterward, I started it and it began accelerating normally once again. This is the first time I've had this problem with the car.
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I have a 1996 Ford Escort with a 1.9 liter engine. I was checking my automatic transmission fluid and the dip stick shows 20 C and 65 C on the dipstick. How do I know if my fluid level is correct? Where should the mark be on level surface, in park with engine running.
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