Ford - Escapehybrid :: 2006 - Wheel Well On Passenger Side Completely Rusted Away Beneath The Fender


Oct 14, 2012

I have a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid with about 90,000 miles on it. It still runs very well and I like the vehicle a lot, but I am about to junk it because the rear wheel well on the passenger side has completely rusted away beneath the fender. The shock absorber is hanging loose because there is not metal left to bolt it to. I looked on the Internet and I saw that several other owners have had the same problem. I took it to the body shop at the dealer where I bought the vehicle and the manager said he had never seen anything like it. The vehicle is long out of warranty and the web information seems to indicate that Ford won't do anything about it, even though they're aware of the problem.

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Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.

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This pic was taken from below the control arm looking up. You see the rubber bumper and just above it is the stop (some what triangular shaped). the bottom is rotted away... Are these replaceable or repairable? They seem like they are welded to the frame.

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Relay box by the front fender... this is where the click is coming from, looked at a few posts from yoda tech and one person suggested cutting the no 4 line for the ignition system off the relay box and have it go directly to the pos post for the battery. This will be a closed circuit from the battery post direct to the starter relay yes?

Relay box is probably just getting old and wires are beat up. My electrical is not the best for sure. Can I just clean up the wires going to the relay box(es)?

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I took it to the mechanic and he found a bad wheel bearing on drivers side and replaced it but that wasn't the issue. He could hear the noise but wasn't able to figure out what the actual issue was.

The noise only happens when my foot is on the throttle. (not when coasting) and i also just discovered that it doesn't make any noise at all when put in 4x4.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Truck Won't Start / Loud Click On Passenger Wheel Well And Then All Electric Completely Dies

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Toyota - Corolla :: 2006 - Squeaky Noise From Passenger Side Front Wheel

I drive a 2006 Toyota Corolla, and I've noticed e a squeaky noise coming from my passenger side front wheel. The noise only occurs when I am accelerating the car and driving between 20-40 mph. As I accelerate, the squeaks increase in frequency. They disappear when I brake.

A mechanic replaced the front brake pads two years ago (15,000 miles ago) and also shaved the rotors. About a year later, the squeaks began. I brought the car into a different mechanic at that time (because I moved) and asked them to take a look. They checked the brakes and said they looked good. They attributed the noise to metallic brakes as opposed to ceramic and said the noise would go away in time. The noise has persisted, however, and is becoming more intense.

What is going wrong? Could this be a CV joint or wheel bearing issue? A rotor issue?

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This is right beneath the drivers side exhaust manifold. Not sure what it is but it appears to be leaking oil. Tried to tighten it and it seems snug. Can it be the gasket has gone bad for whatever it is?

Truck is 02 SD, 7.3, 4x4, with 512k miles.

Not really leaking bad but if easy enough to fix why not. It also appears to be leaking on the same side cylinder bank back near the rear of the valve cover. Need to see if I can snug that up as well.

It's right in the center of the pic. It's a bolt going into some sort of fitting housing that ties into the back portion of the block. Ignore the coolant streaks on the coolant hose. This is the oil leak in the darker center of the pic.

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Alright, yesterday while I am at work, wife calls me up and tells me the Ex is leaking coolant. I got home a little before dark and looked at it. Right behind the front passenger fender well, it appears that either a bolt came out of a bracket, or someone took it off for something and was too lazy to put it on, allowing the metal elbows to swing over and rub on a bracket. So now I have a hole in that elbow, and I need to the excursion for our trip over Christmas leave. Where I might get an elbow to replace that one? Also, need to know the bolt size for that heater hose bracket to keep it from happening again? If I can't find one pretty soon, I will have to JBWeld or something it temporarily to hold us through until after Christmas.

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I have had the throttle body replaced as well as the master air flow cleaned out, neither of which have fixed the issue. This is becoming a safety issue, since it has happened twice now on the highway going around 65 mph.

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My first thought was worst case sceneries - wheel bearings. After getting it in the air, in neutral, I can turn the wheels, but, it takes a lot of effort. There's no grinding noises, but, it sounds like a brake is in constant contact.

I'm in the process of taking both wheels off, but, I'm leaning towards either the brakes/calipers or the ebrake dragging. It definitely smells like hot brakes, and not diff fluid.

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It seems like an obvious bad wheel bearing issue, right? Before I take it in to a shop to replace the bearing and the hub, I want to explore if it could be a faulty caliper that might seize when it heats up.(something I can fix easily myself)

What can I look for to diagnose? When it is cool with the wheel removed I see no obvious issues with the brake pads/caliper, but that is not to say it doesn't act differently when super hot.

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