Ford - Escapehybrid :: 2006 - Wheel Well On Passenger Side Completely Rusted Away Beneath The Fender
Oct 14, 2012
I have a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid with about 90,000 miles on it. It still runs very well and I like the vehicle a lot, but I am about to junk it because the rear wheel well on the passenger side has completely rusted away beneath the fender. The shock absorber is hanging loose because there is not metal left to bolt it to. I looked on the Internet and I saw that several other owners have had the same problem. I took it to the body shop at the dealer where I bought the vehicle and the manager said he had never seen anything like it. The vehicle is long out of warranty and the web information seems to indicate that Ford won't do anything about it, even though they're aware of the problem.
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My 1997 Camry with 2.2 L motor is leaking oil profusely beneath the passenger side of the engine. Over time it looses oil slowly however when the engine runs it really leaks. I've isolated about where it is coming from beneath the timing belt area as shown in picture : [URL] .....
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I have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
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On my 01' the bottoms of the bump stops are completely gone. Rusted out to the point to where the rubber stop on the front lower control arm (if the truck bottomed-out) would go right thought it. The rubber stops are fine.
This pic was taken from below the control arm looking up. You see the rubber bumper and just above it is the stop (some what triangular shaped). the bottom is rotted away... Are these replaceable or repairable? They seem like they are welded to the frame.
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89 v6 4Runner. When I turn the key forward you hear a "click" coming from the passenger side fender area. After a few turns the engine will turn over and away you go. Yesterday for the first time after a few clicks I lost all power to my instrument panel, no dash lights no gauges working and no click, nothing. Stereo, cigarette lighter still had power, even reset my dash clock so it lost all connections as well. Every few turns I would get lights back and turn the key to start and click and dead again. Eventually I bump started the engine, drove home and here I sit.
Relay box by the front fender... this is where the click is coming from, looked at a few posts from yoda tech and one person suggested cutting the no 4 line for the ignition system off the relay box and have it go directly to the pos post for the battery. This will be a closed circuit from the battery post direct to the starter relay yes?
Relay box is probably just getting old and wires are beat up. My electrical is not the best for sure. Can I just clean up the wires going to the relay box(es)?
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I owned a 99 f250 a little while ago. Just bought a 2006 crewcab F150 xlt about 2 months ago, and for the past month there has been this unusual grinding or whirring like noise coming from the front passenger side wheel.
I took it to the mechanic and he found a bad wheel bearing on drivers side and replaced it but that wasn't the issue. He could hear the noise but wasn't able to figure out what the actual issue was.
The noise only happens when my foot is on the throttle. (not when coasting) and i also just discovered that it doesn't make any noise at all when put in 4x4.
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Just tried putting a ts6 on my pcm. First time I hooked it back up I just got cranking with no start. So I pulled the pcm terminals really well plugged it back in and got nothing. I do not remember because I was kind of in a hurry if I unplugged the batter cables and back on the second time. I plugged it back in after cleaning terminals and went to start and got nothing. A loud click on passenger wheel well and then all electric in truck completely dies. I hope I didn't fry my pcm. Maybe just blew a fuse or starter relay?
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I drive a 2006 Toyota Corolla, and I've noticed e a squeaky noise coming from my passenger side front wheel. The noise only occurs when I am accelerating the car and driving between 20-40 mph. As I accelerate, the squeaks increase in frequency. They disappear when I brake.
A mechanic replaced the front brake pads two years ago (15,000 miles ago) and also shaved the rotors. About a year later, the squeaks began. I brought the car into a different mechanic at that time (because I moved) and asked them to take a look. They checked the brakes and said they looked good. They attributed the noise to metallic brakes as opposed to ceramic and said the noise would go away in time. The noise has persisted, however, and is becoming more intense.
What is going wrong? Could this be a CV joint or wheel bearing issue? A rotor issue?
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This is right beneath the drivers side exhaust manifold. Not sure what it is but it appears to be leaking oil. Tried to tighten it and it seems snug. Can it be the gasket has gone bad for whatever it is?
Truck is 02 SD, 7.3, 4x4, with 512k miles.
Not really leaking bad but if easy enough to fix why not. It also appears to be leaking on the same side cylinder bank back near the rear of the valve cover. Need to see if I can snug that up as well.
It's right in the center of the pic. It's a bolt going into some sort of fitting housing that ties into the back portion of the block. Ignore the coolant streaks on the coolant hose. This is the oil leak in the darker center of the pic.
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I have a 2000 CRV with 95,000 miles. In a heavy rain I get water leakage on my driver's side floor. Have had a new windshield installed but it still leaks. Plan to keep vehicle for 2-3 years more.
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Alright, yesterday while I am at work, wife calls me up and tells me the Ex is leaking coolant. I got home a little before dark and looked at it. Right behind the front passenger fender well, it appears that either a bolt came out of a bracket, or someone took it off for something and was too lazy to put it on, allowing the metal elbows to swing over and rub on a bracket. So now I have a hole in that elbow, and I need to the excursion for our trip over Christmas leave. Where I might get an elbow to replace that one? Also, need to know the bolt size for that heater hose bracket to keep it from happening again? If I can't find one pretty soon, I will have to JBWeld or something it temporarily to hold us through until after Christmas.
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I have a 1997 4.2 and when i got it the big vacuum reservoir under the passenger fender had the lines broke off. Where these lines go or have a diagram...
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My driver's side bulb at times will just go completely off. Is it the bulb or the ballast shooting craps?
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I have the above mentioned vehicle and have had 5 incidents of the vehicle shutting down on me while I am driving. A warning light (triangle with !) come on, and a message that says "Stop Safely Now", at which point the car shuts down and runs only on electric battery power for a short period of time to allow you to pull over. I have figured out that it only happens when it is either raining outside, or I have just gotten a car wash with undercarriage spray down.
I have had the throttle body replaced as well as the master air flow cleaned out, neither of which have fixed the issue. This is becoming a safety issue, since it has happened twice now on the highway going around 65 mph.
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Got home from work last night, passengers side rear wheel was smoking, and damn hot to the touch. Drivers side rear was hot, but not as bad as passenger's side.
My first thought was worst case sceneries - wheel bearings. After getting it in the air, in neutral, I can turn the wheels, but, it takes a lot of effort. There's no grinding noises, but, it sounds like a brake is in constant contact.
I'm in the process of taking both wheels off, but, I'm leaning towards either the brakes/calipers or the ebrake dragging. It definitely smells like hot brakes, and not diff fluid.
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Passenger side front wheel won't engage
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On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
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How do you remove the rear pass side wheel studs? I have knocked them loose but there isn't enough clearance to remove them. I have removed the parking brake shoes already. Does the hub have to be pulled to do this?
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My passenger side wheel bearing is going out. I had a local company replace it under extended warranty 7 years and 90k miles back. I think I have gotten pretty good life out of it. I think it was from Napa but not positive. I try to grease then once a year but I'm not always successful.
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Just started noticing that whenever i turn right the passenger side front wheel vibrates. 2003 ford explorer xlt 4x4. i asked a friend and he said cv axle.
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1998 Ford Windstar 3.0 van. After in town driving for for 1/2 hour or more, my passenger side front wheel begins to heat up severely (partially melted the hubcap). It also begins to "grab" as if the emergency brake is on. when it cools off, it seems to rolls normally. I am nearing not hearing any obvious bad bearing noises when it is cool.
It seems like an obvious bad wheel bearing issue, right? Before I take it in to a shop to replace the bearing and the hub, I want to explore if it could be a faulty caliper that might seize when it heats up.(something I can fix easily myself)
What can I look for to diagnose? When it is cool with the wheel removed I see no obvious issues with the brake pads/caliper, but that is not to say it doesn't act differently when super hot.
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