Ford - Escape :: Shuddering Between 40 And 55 MPH / Check Engine Light Came On
Feb 10, 2011
My Ford Escape was just serviced at 120K Miles. After about two weeks it started shuddering between 40 and 55 miles an hour. It got worse and after about 4 weeks the Check engine light came on. I took it back to my mechanic and the read out said it had a misfiring piston. What does this mean exactly? How does one fix it, prevent it from happening again?
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2011 eb just turned 36k. Today on breezeway it shuddered like it swallowed a bird, and check engine light flashed on. Went to see customer left and light was off. Back on breezeway and shuddered on entrance ramp so this time I stayed into it so either there's a light that will stay on or just launch it and this time the dealer will have something to fix that they can diagnose. Check engine light is on its fine as long as I stay out of the pedal. Still have 8 months left on power train warranty but what am I looking at for a diagnose, there is definitely a problem now. What the dealership should see?
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that's got 105k miles on it. A couple months ago, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. While it was on, it was flashing and the car felt like it was shuddering, like there was not enough gas getting to the engine. Then the CIL stopped flashing. It happened several times during my short outing that day, but then it never happened again. Now the flashing CIL is back and the car feels the same way when it's happening. I took it to an auto parts store to get the trouble codes read and the guy said P0300 (random cylinder misfire) and P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) came up.
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Let me start with some background. 2001 B5.5 Passat Sedan 1.8T 5spd Completely Stock 156,000 miles. So, tonight i head for the grocery store about 5 minutes up the street. I get about half way there, when I notice that the check engine light is flashing. I ease off the gas, and coax it to the next light. At the light, the car feels like it might stall out, and the car seems to shudder, and I notice that the shudder is connected to the RPM of the motor. Meaning, if i rev the motor the shudder gets faster.
I manage to coax the car home to my driveway, and I leave it in a position easy to be towed. So, i figure that I will leave the car running, and look under the hood, but as soon as I open the drivers door, i can smell something burning/smoldering. I shut off the engine, and carefully open the hood. I find no smoke or fire, but I see that the downpipe (or whatever pipe the exhaust coming from the turbo leaves through) is glowing red hot.
I am not sure what happened. The car gave no other obvious symptoms. The other things I should mention though, are that I change my own oil. Always Mobil 1 with a Audi or at least german filter. However, my father was the original owner, and for the first 60k he used conventional oil. The turbo has always been strong, and seemed to deliver full boost. I do not know if it is still boosting in light of recent events.
For the last few weeks, the check engine light has been on and off. My mechanic scanned it a few times, and told me that it was the "Air Injection Pump Code". My understanding is that this system basically divers exhaust gas into the Cat when the car is warming up. If its not working properly, then it is just a emission problem.
I should also mention, that the car has recently been leaking a little bit of water when there is a hard rain storm. On Saturday, I took the rain tray cover off, checked the Pollen Filter, and removed the battery in order to clear out the drain plugs under the battery tray, and the brake master cylinder. As I write this, I begin to wonder if its possible that something just went very wrong with the Air Injection System.
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Installed new egr valve and check engine light still won't stay off...
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2002 Ford Escape. My car was sitting for a week in cold weather. I started it yesterday with no problem, but only waited for a minute or two before driving. I was driving at city speeds, and heard a knock. I was accelerating up a hill and it hesitated/ jerked once or twice. The check engine light came on, and now it knocks every few seconds when I am stopped at a light. It also doesn't seem to catch the highest gear (5?) when it shifts, making a constant knocking sound and vibrating. Letting go of the gas or accelerating so it shifts back down makes the noise go away. In other gears it seems fine, with an occasional jump... It is an Automatic V6. I am taking the car in Monday, but I would like to know possible causes.
This morning I let my car warm up for 40 minutes (15 minutes in park and 25 idling at the bus stop). The problem was no better. By knock I meant it feels like someone bumped the engine. My foot vibrates on the brake for a second. And when it changes into the highest gear, it shudders ( until I release or further press the gas pedal. The revs don't change while it is shuddering or knocking.
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Intermittently blinking check engine light in a 2003(?) Ford Escape. I received a call from my fiance, who's about 45 minutes into a two hour drive. On the interstate, her check engine light started blinking, so she pulls off the interstate to a gas station (the light was blinking for maybe five minutes before she could stop, according to her). After she was off the interstate, but before she had turned the engine off, the blinking stopped.
She called me, and I looked up and directed her to an AutoZone about a half mile from where she was. Told her to drive there, and have them to try to read any codes from the engine. She drives over, engine light stays off the entire time. They hook up the reader, and there aren't any codes. My question is, if the check engine light stops blinking, and there aren't any codes for the reader, is the car safe to drive, or will she destroy the cat if she keeps going? Also, it's raining, if that matters for any reason.
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I own a 2004 Ford Escape, auto, v6. I bought the car in 2007 and have had trouble with my check engine light ever since. It is usually on, but will turn off shortly after I wash it (then back on a week or so later). When mechanics test for the code, they say that my catalytic convertor needs to be replaced. In addition to the on/off strange behavior, I have been driving this car for 4 years now with no major mechanical trouble that I can only assume would result from not replacing the CC. This would be very expensive repair, one I am not interested in doing if this is possibly just an electrical problem. I am ready to get this problem solved and start driving check engine light free.
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I have a 2005 Ford Escape 3.0L V6. The emission systems/check engine light keeps coming on. I have taken it to 4 different places and the diagnostic keeps referring to the MAP Sensor. It has been replaced twice (granted one was free) and the light is still on. I have also replaced a coil, the plugs and boots.
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So my wife was driving our '10 escape xlt and the engine light came on and it displayed the 'check engine' message on the screen. It has 86500 miles and luckily no problems yet. The only thing that has changed was she accidentally put super premium gas in it the other day. The light came on and after she drove it home (about 10-12 miles) and it sat for a few hours and i drove it about 20 miles it randomly went off while it was idling.
I shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes and then let it idle for a few and it never came back. It has been running ok. We definitely drive it a lot as she works day shift and i work nights. I'm just trying to make sure there's nothing wrong with it. I got a bulletin a while back about the intake getting moisture in it. I didn't know if maybe this could be the beginning of this or something else. This is a whole new territory for me as i consider my 91 f250 'new'
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Check engine light came on and stopped by the local autoparts store to get the error code.
Code: P2270
Bank1 Sensor2 fault
Where is this O2 sensor? I've replaced O2's on other cars I've had and just want to make sure I replace the right one.
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A couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light. Pulling the codes I saw that it was a p0304 and sometimes a p0316. The first time this happened I check the spark plug cables and one was loose (cycylinder 4). Then last week my fuel pump died. since then I have gotten the two codes on a somewhat continous basis. I replaced the plugs (needed to anyway) and the problem did not go away.
The odd thing is that the check engine light does not come on at idle. IT only comes on after the motor is at a higher rev. The replaced plugs looked pretty normal, but the cylinder 4 plug had some carbon deposits. I am currently running injector cleaner in the gas. I may go ahead and replace the plug wires since the current ones are high mileage and it is not an expensive fix.
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This is a Ford Escape XLT with the 3.0L V6. I get the following codes - P0316 P0300 P0136 P0305 P0306. Sometimes it runs just fine and sometimes it misses and bucks and jumps. It has been taken to a local shop and they said they found a loose ground at the computer. They said they corrected this and it should run fine. It still shows the same codes and runs like it did before they worked on it.
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Ive got an 02 2wd escape with the v6. Its been an excellent truck until here recently. The wife has had a weird problem twice now, that I have been unable to reproduce. She says the check engine light and low oil light come on and she loses power steering. Shutting it off and restarting fixes the issue.
Took a 400 mile road trip with it last weekend and never had an issue. Only thing I noticed , the readiness meters never went ready. Even after that trip, It still shows a systems not ready code.
Tonight the wife had the issue again. Shutdown and restart fixed it. Battery cables are clean and tight, several grounds were freshly cleaned a couple months ago.
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I was driving home and all of a sudden my rpms are at 3.5 4k rpm wont shift to next gear. I put in in tiptronic mode and shift it to 8 it works fine. Then about 10 minutes later check vsc shows on dash traction control light is on check engine light is on and the light next to the check engine i think it is the abs light. I havent pulled the code yet.
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Just had my lexus dealership do the ELF recall. While it was in there I had them check to see why my check vsc light comes on randomly which sets off the check engine light.
They came back and told me that my water pump is leaking, what are the future problems of a leaking water pump?
They said the check vsc light is coming on, in their words is "found center y pipe, gaskets leaking at front pipe, may still need to replace converter pipe." So what does that mean and what do I need to do?
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I have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
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Engine light flashing constantly with a vibration. It don't give any codes with the reader.
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I own a Ford escape 2010. the engine light stays on continuously. The car wont pass inspection (required in MA). I just took the car to an Auto service place and they came up with the code P144A. Ford dealership refuses to provide me with a interpretation of that code # unless I bring it in and they can do a diagnostic themselves.... What that particular code is in english. (It has to do with the engine).
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I have a 1998 expedition 4.6 4x4 check engine light on od light flashing sometimes checked it and got p1747 code i was told epc solenoid or short on trans wiring. I already dropped the trans pan, looking for a step by step easy way to diagnose and find the short or if i need to replace any of the solenoids. I have voltmeter and taste light....
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