Ford - Escape :: Rear Power Lock Is Not Functioning?
Aug 7, 2013
My rear power lock is not functioning. When I hit the power locks, the other three power locks work, but the one will not function and I can hear the actuator make a prolonged electrical noise (like a deep whine). Is it safe to assume that I need to replace the actuator? I just don't want to throw parts at it.
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Just curious if this has been an issue for Avalons. My driver side rear door lock has not been functioning whether it be with the FOB or using the power door lock button. Requires manually locking/unlocking. How to determine the cause?
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My 2004 6.0 used to beep and flash the lights when I lock and unlock with the remote key fob, but has stopped doing it for some reason. Need the sequence required to re-program that feature.
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My rear driver-side door's lock just stopped functioning. It is in the locked position and I can't put it in the unlocked position using the key or manually (and I've tried using a LOT of force). The door itself is actually not locked. When I lock and unlock the doors, all the other doors work fine, and the broken one tries to lock and unlock, but it is stuck hard in it's position. But, the door stays unlocked under all circumstances.
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The passenger door on my 2002 Escape is locked and the power lock is not working on that door. The door is closed, how to get it open.
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My passenger rear lock is no longer lock/unlocking via power. I had an issue with the driver front, but it was replaced under warranty. Since it's a 2007, it's certainly no longer under warranty.
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2011 Sonata GLS 2.4 82K miles
Driver door lock was stuck in lock position. key fob and interior button would not unlock driver door. had to force it open and now the door will not lock at all. tried key fob, buttons, and even inserting key and manually locking but nothing locks the door. Interior lock/unlock button next to handle moves freely now.
Is this the door latch assembly, the handle itself, or something else?
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I went to grab my laptop out of my car this morning and my passenger side door wont unlock. I tried with the remote, then i tried using the button on the drivers door, then i tried the button on the passenger door and none of them worked. I don't hear as much as a pin drop sound coming from the pass. door so im thinking maybe its just a fuse or something...didn't get a chance to look at it..
Why I didnt think of it this morning, but i opened the door from the inside, remembering how when you do so, it pushes up the lock...that seemed to be enough to fix it...works fine now..weird..
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I'm having Hyundai Accent GLS Model 2005. Since yesterday, My tail lamp and Third Brake light is still switched on even I turn off the light & I notice that my Auto door lock is not functioning even I press the Brake Pedal. I tried to disconnect the battery & the Fuse and place it back but it doesn't works. Currently, I just pull out the fuse.
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Child safety switches on both doors are NOT activated, and both doors open OK when exterior handle is pulled. Jiggling the child safety switches does not resolve the problem. Removed interior handles thinking that perhaps some plastic tab had broken off, but both appear ok. Pulling on the linkage bar that connects handle to latching mechanism inside the door does not open the door. Indeed, the linkage bar won't move despite tugging.
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About a year ago I put in a new lock motor and it worked fine for a while but has stopped working. Is it the lock motor or something else? It unlocks but won't lock. There is not latch indicator on the upper hatch so it stayed unlocked without me knowing it.
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I just bought a 2004 Ford F150 supercrew, and I noticed that the rear passenger power locks don't work.
- I can manually lock and unlock the door. But when I try to use the powerlocks, nothing happens at all.
- I have powerlock controls on both front doors and when I try to lock/unlock all the doors, they all work properly besides that rear passenger door.
- I have checked all fuzes, they are fine.
I realize it could be the actuator? But, I can manually lock/unlock the door with no problem, so could it still be that? How do I troubleshoot to see if it is the actuator or just a wiring problem.
I have all the tools and a meter, just don't know how to troubleshoot the problem! I've done a lot of googling about this and there isn't really anything I've seen on troubleshooting to see if its wiring or actuator.
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My ford escape won't let me unlock it my remote start doesn't work but the cars runs fine but today i locked my car before i turned it off which is what i always do. to lock it and when i went to unlock it manually i heard a pop sound and my key won't turn and there's no other way to unlock my car i walked around it 3 times trying to look for a key slot. How to unlock it.???
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To summarize. I no longer get any fault codes but the passenger side DRL is not functioning and my rear fog is stuck on. I do not have a euro switch with the fog option. I set byte 18 to 0x04.
The passenger LED running strip functions with the headlights on though. For DRL function it turns on right after releasing the parking brake but shuts off a second later.
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We have a 2008 Azera Ltd. with 108,000 miles. Until recently rear sunshade worked perfectly as we used in in auto mode retracting in reverse and going up in forward. No noise during any phase of operation. Not sure when but recently sunshade quit functioning. have tried console button without success but also hear no noise indicating a broken gear as others have reported. Have checked fuse on drivers side fuse panel and it is not blown. From this I can only assume problem is either motor has completely failed or switch is bad. I have laid in the trunk to see if i can access system but covers are all riveted so i thought I'd pull the switch and test it but not sure how to remove it without damaging console
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I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
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2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
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I have search youtube and only found front door lock replacement but not the rear..
How do you go about removing the bad rear passenger side door lock actuator ??
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My GF recently purchased a used 2009 Corolla LE when a yuppie type with a bad texting habit, rear ended and totaled her last ride.
It is a great little car with excellent handling and performance. We also enjoy the 30mpg's and sub $40 fill ups.
I drove it recently and noticed a knobby tire sound coming from the rear of the car. I rotated the tires to see if the noise moved with the tires and it did not (this was to rule out a cupping tire). I suspected a wheel bearing / hub failing and took it to my mechanic buddy to confirm. He agreed with me as there are really no other moving parts back there other than the brake shoes. I had already taken it down the highway and gently applied the parking brake to rule that out. No change when the parking brake was applied at highway speeds.
Found the hub assy at Rock Auto and it took about 30 minutes to replace. It comes complete with an abs sensor. The hub housing was blue from excessive heat so it was about to seize or fail completely which would have been ugly.
the bearing rides is actually blue from excessive heat.....
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Strangely today my drivers side rear power door lock stopped working. Very annoying, can't unlock it electronically, and if its unlocked the rest of the car won't lock and the headlights won't go off.
I have to put it in anyways for the airbag seat rail TSB, but I was going to wait until my 40k service was due. This is too annoying to wait on since I put my briefcase and hang up my suit jacket in that seat...
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I have a 2002 Ford explorer XLT V8. My door locks recently stopped working, including all switches to lock and unlock, and the rear glass hatch lock. My alarm comes on when I hit the buttons on the remote, but the key pad and switches don't do anything. There is a click coming from a harness that is above the rear passenger seat belt so when you use the remote and the switches so I know power is getting to that point at least.
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