Ford - Escape :: Engine Misfire When Going Downhill
Oct 27, 2016
2005 Ford Escape, 4-cylinder with ~75,000 miles. I experience engine misfire when driving on the highway after 1+ hours that only occurs when I'm going DOWNHILL. The misfire will last between 36-41 seconds and then goes back to operating fine. Doesn't occur on every downhill and doesn't occur on steep downhills during in-town driving. The diagnostics always show the error for cylinders 1 and 4. The following repairs have been made:
Replaced all 4 spark plugs and ignition coils, replaced fuel filter, fuel injectors cleaned and tested showing no concerns.
Misfires reoccur during next long drive 6 months later, compression test performed and failed. All four fuel injectors replaced and one connector replaced.
Misfires reoccurred again during next long drive 4 months later.
I am stumped as to why the problem keeps happening, why it only occurs when going downhill, and why it seems to last for a fairly consistent length of time.
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2005 Ford Escape 4 cyl240,000 miles. Every time i fill up the gas tank and then drive for a while, either the next time i start the car or while i'm driving, the engine will begin to misfire, lose power, and eventually stall. It won't start again, or will start but misfire so much that it stalls again. If I wait 20 or 30 minutes or over night, then it will start up and run fine until i fill the tank again a days or so later.
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I'm needing cold engine misfire. 2001 escape 3.0 engine 190300 miles on it. I changed the plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve and new ideal control valve. When the engine is cold it starts right up but wont idle right and misfires sputters some to but run the rpm's up and it smooths out. drop to idle and it misses. Now when the engine gets to operating temp it seems to run fine. What am I overlooking to find the problem?
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape, and today I noticed that while backing out of my driveway (downhill) as I pressed the brake pedal it made this grinding noise, but when I got out of the car I looked through the tires and the rotors and pads were fine. I did not get a chance to check the inner side of the rotor or pad yet. What else could this noise be if it's not the brakes? It only makes this noise when I press the brake pedal which is why I thought it was the brakes.
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I know I can fix this problem, but my question is which cylinder is #4? I don't see it marked on the engine. The counter guys at both my local parts supply stores (whose initials are A and O) can't even look it up for me. If #4 is on the front of the engine, then it's an easy fix. If it's on the backside, then the intake manifold has to come off to get to the plugs and coil packs. It's a bit more labor. I can do it, but I'd rather not have to.
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I am having some ( Bad Luck ) with my 02 escape I been getting random misfire codes started checking over o2 sensors first, replaced one on bank 1 downstream, I have screenshots to look over along with codes....
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I have a 2009 Escape, 2.5l engine and manual 5 speed transmission, 205,000 miles. It has has an intermittent miss that has been getting gradually worse over the past 3 months or so. I've been seriously futzing with it for the past 2 months, so far no luck. Definitely worse when it's cold. Not noticeable at all in gears 1-3 (even when cold), noticeable in 4th, mostly between ~2000-2500 RPM, and pretty bad when cold in 5th in the same RPM range, still noticeable when warm. No service engine light until today (#1 misfire).
If I let the vehicle idle for 10 minutes or so, the miss is much less noticeable. Replaced the plugs, absolutely no difference. Bought one COP and cycled through all cylinders, no difference. Finally broke down and took it to the Ford dealership where I bought it new and had them do a power balance test, which isolated it to cylinder #1. Swapped the #1 and #2 injectors and took it back to Ford, still showing cylinder #1. Did a compression test, #1 and #2 both around 165lbs, #3 and #4 both around 185lbs.
I'm a electrical engineer, so I spent some quality time with an oscilloscope to compare the drive waveforms of the #1 and #2 cylinder COP and injector...both COP and injector drive waveforms look identical when comparing to #2 cyl. Tried heating the PCM, made no difference (engine was cold, PCM was hot).
So it finally DID throw a code today, cylinder 1 misfire. I'm thinking I can almost hear a miss at idle now. And listening to the valvetrain at idle, there is unmistakably more valve noise coming from the #1 intake area than the other cylinders, but not terrible.
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape, 6cyl FWD... 110,000 miles.
About a month ago I started seeing a misfire, which of course usually is a COP issue. I should buy stock in whoever makes those. Anyway, the code according to parts store monkey was cylinder 2 misfire, so I replaced the COP. That made no difference. I also replaced the upper intake gaskets and the PCV valve while I was in there.
So I started monitoring when it would happen, and of course got the actual code rather than taking the word of the monkey at the parts store. The code is P0352 Primary / Secondary circuit malfunction.
So after some research I find it could be the harness, it could be the PCM. The question I have is this misfire seems to only be when the motor is started after it's hot. What I mean is I can drive to work 10 miles, no problem. I can drive to Orlando 100 miles away - no problem as long as I don't stop on the way. The only time the misfire happens is when I start the motor when it's hot. So if I drive 10 miles to the store, then drive home before the motor cools completely I'll be coming home on 5 cylinders. If I wait 2 hours between stop and start I never have a misfire.
Does that jive with a true electrical problem? I'm no expert, but I don't understand why driving for 100 miles is fine, but 10 miles, stop start and 10 more is an electrical problem.
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I have a very Big problem with my Ford Escape 2002 I have this problems code: P0305 accuses Cylinder #5 P0306 accuses Cylinder #6.
I already change the gasket i buy the felpro Kit, and i Also replace all the sparks and spark plug boots, I clean the air sensors and i also replace the EGR, i try to switch cables, and all is the same the car start buy when i accelerate it just go off, i don't know what can i do next, somebody told me to change the fuel injector, i take the pressure in both spark holes the number 4 was 150 and the 5 and 6 was 120, No leaks oil. My car is a Ford Escape 2002, XLT 3.0 4x4
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My g/f's 2004 Ford Escape (3.0L V6 AWD 112,000mi) is acting up. After a full day of sitting, with the second half of it raining steadily, she was driving her Escape and it was acting funny (miss-firing, she said). The engine light came on and soon began blinking. She got to my house shortly after it started this. We left it and I drove for the day. Later that night, I drove it and it seemed fine. The engine light was on, but not flashing anymore.
The next day I took it my friend that was a Saturn mechanic and now working at a KIA dealership (same owner as the former Saturn and current Buick/GMC and Chevy Dealer). It ran fine for me. So he tries to scan it, his Mac Tools scanner won't read it. The KIA scanner wouldn't read it. I drove it the Ford dealer up the road. They said they couldn't get to it until after lunch, I just want the codes read. They re-iterated, and I told them to pound salt and went to an independent shop where I know a guy. They read it right away for me. "Mis-fire on start-up" & "Cylinder 4 Mis-fire." were the two codes stored. He cleared them.
She got the tune up basics (plugs, wires, air filter, etc) and did the complete tune-up herself yesterday. (I was impressed). She put 94 in the tank and some fuel system cleaner in it as well. She said there's been no change and today I finally saw what it was doing. Sometimes during idling at a stop light, the RPMs will drop to almost zero, the lights dim but so far it has not stalled. It'll do this for several seconds, then correct itself and idle normally.
Currently, the engine light has not come back on. She's thinking coil pack (each cylinder has a coil on these engines) on #4. She wants to switch it out with #1 and see if the problem follows. I think that might uncover the cause, or it could be the battery. It's the original, never been replaced and has a lot of miles on it, but it survived this past winter, without trouble. In my experience, most batteries crap out due to age in the fall when the cold snaps start.
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My wife has a 2004 escape v6 (3.0L). The valve cover seal was leaking so I decided, why not change the plugs since I'm already going to have the intake manifold off.
I got down there, replaced the seal (just the front side, didn't want to disassemble something that wasn't broke) and then replaced all 6 plugs and boots (with springs). Fired it up and everything seemed fine. She went to drive to work and the CEL started to flash. I read the code and there were 4 (Don't remember exactly what they were), but it was a combination of things resulting from a misfire in cylinder 4. Since it was one of the front ones. I just pulled the plugged and replaced it hoping I had gotten a dud from the factory. Nope, still doing it.
I didn't take off the fuel lines, just the air intake on the top. I did not change the coils, but everything was running fine before I changed plugs so logic would dictate it is something I did. Only seems to misfire at higher speeds. Also, her battery light randomly comes on, but the battery and alternator test good. This has been happening a while.
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I am having a lot of issues with my 2002 ford escape, a while if I drive the truck acts normal, but after driving it starts missing when beginning to accelerate at a dead stop check engine light starts flashing pulled codes coming up with #4 cylinder misfire and #5 cylinder misfire detected, also a catalyst system below threshold bank 2, I have had the vacuum lines repaired and still no changes and went through and changed my grade of fuel from regular unleaded fuel to premium fuel, actually went worse with using premium fuel. I was thinking of replacing all three coil on the front of the motor, putting new plugs in it and seeing what that does.
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I drive a 2005 Ford Explorer (automatic) with 84k miles on it. Recently when I was driving on cruise control at 35 mp/h down a hill and applied the breaks to make a turn, the engine completely shut off. The lights came on, the power steering went off, the engine had shut off. I pulled over, turned the key off, turned it back on and it started no problem. I drove it for 3 days without problems (and without using cruise control of course), then I took the car to a shop. They ran diagnostics on it, test drove it, but couldn't find anything wrong with the cruise control or the transmission. I don't think they tested this driving downhill as the shop is not in a hilly area. Tonight, I went down the same road again, 35 mp/h in cruise control, slowed down for the same turn, and the engine shut off again exactly the same way it did before. What this could be?
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Traveling downhill, with no throttle input. The car is regenerating power as I coast down the hill. I hear the engine turn on and rev up. I glance at the Scangauge and see RPM is at 3045 or so. MPG is still 9999 and SOC is 77.
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How the synergy drive is working. Why when coming down on a long down hill (mountain pass for example) the car stays at high RPM ? That usually happens when battery is charge to its MAX of 80%.
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I have noticed a couple times now on my Automatic S that the engine keeps revving an additional 1,000 - 2,000 rpms when I am braking going down a hill. Is this normal? It doesn't occur on flat roads or going uphill, but only downhill. It's almost as if it downshifts when I brake. Not sure if this is normal or not, but it just didn't feel right.
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V10 - When you shift into tiptronic to brake going downhill, the engine first revs up and then the transmission engages. Sort of an automatic double clutch!
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I have a 1987 ramcharger with a 318 and auto tranny. I just put a new carburetor on it. The previous owner partially deleted the lean burn system but didn't change out the carb. I put a Carter 2bbl on it. The truck will start fine and drive fine until I try to go down hill, it then stalls. It doesn't do it as much going up hill, but is still a problem then. If I keep on the accelerator it stays running. I cant figure out what the deal is and is absolutely driving me nuts.
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I have a 1995 Oldsmobile 98 sedan with engine braking problems. It has the 3800 engine (complete with a slight intake manifold leak, as per the GM custom) and low miles. I recently moved from the midwest to the west coast, where this battleship encountered real mountains for the first time on the road trip west. Driving into Yellowstone NP from Cody, Wyoming I encountered a particularly hilly stretch of US highway that had a steep grade and plenty of curves down the hill.
I took the car out of overdrive and put it down a gear to let the engine braking assist. Nothing happened. The car continued to speed up with no assistance from the engine, even in 2nd, which should have held me at around 45-50. To test this on the next big drop, I started at the top from a full stop, and in first gear. I should have been walking down the mountain, but instead the car kept speeding up to around 40 and 4000 rpms before I relented and shifted up.
Is this a transmission problem? Or would the lack of engine braking downhill but no transmission problems when tooling around town elsewhere indicate something else? Maybe a vacuum leak?
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This is just a basic Sentra 2.0L with a CVT, about 80k miles.
I park on a very very slight downhill grade.. very slight.. almost flat.. The car starts just fine, put it in reverse, push the pedal to the floor, engine revs up to about 1500 rpms (I'm assuming it has a limiter on it because it won't go past 1500) and the car sits still. Release the accelerator, floor it again, car moves about 6", repeat a few times and eventually I can back out. That ain't normal.
It does a similar thing when in Drive, except it will actually start moving but very slowly. So slow that I'm afraid I'm going to get T-boned if I try to make a left turn. Once I get up to about 10mph it starts to feel somewhat normal.
Once it starts moving it doesn't seem to have any trouble maintaining highway speeds. The engine might be running a little faster than normal, but to be honest I'm not sure if it is or not. Pulls up some pretty significant hills at 60mph at around 3k RPM.. which seems reasonable.
What it could be? Transmission is still under warranty so I'm hoping it's that.. I don't really have the $ to throw at this thing right now. By the way - it's not throwing any codes or anything.
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I recently paid for a tune up on my 2003 Escape at a garage recommended to me by a friend. A couple weeks after the tune up my check engine light came on, I took it back to the same garage and the mechanic told me that one of the spark plugs was bad & he replaced it. Yesterday on my way to work the check engine light began blinking and the engine was jerking a little. I took the car to a very reputable mechanic and he just called to tell me that my car still has the original spark plugs in it and is desperate need of a tune up! I just paid $250 for a tune up a couple months ago! Did I get scammed? How should I confront the original mechanic?
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