Ford - Escape :: Dpfe Sensor Hose Blowing Off When Acceleration Occurs
Apr 20, 2011
I just had both manifold cats replaced and the egr valve which blew a hole thru the side of it and I replaced the hoses and the dpfe sensor due to the dealer said the 2 front cats were plugged this is what happened before cats were fixed the dpfe sensor blowing off and melting then the egr blew a hole in the side on my way to the garage and I also replace the fluid sensor for the master cylinder res because it looked broke and my brakes weren't working right either now that all this was fixed 3 days ago I drove it to the store this am 1/4 of a mile and the dpfe hose blew off again what is going on? ford says I should have the fuel pressure checked?
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I just bought a '98 Ranger 2.5l 2wd. After driving it for a week or so I got a P1405 Code. After a quick google search I got :
P1405 Ford - DPFE Sensor Circuit Upstream Hose
Possible Causes: - Faulty Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor (EGR pressure sensor)
- Plugged or damaged EGR tube
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Now, I have done my research between forums and youtube and have found this EGR system to be quite. I've gone ahead and replaced my DPEF. I took an air hose and blew out all the small lines coming into the DPEF. I still have the engine light. My next move is to get a volt meter and see if I'm getting power to the sensor.
My question is about this particular code and is it possible I need to look farther into this EGR system (EGR Valve, EGR Hose, etc.)
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I have a 2000 ford f 150 4x4. I just had to replace the engine in it because something got in my engine and beat it up and bent a valve. I replace the engine with one out of a 99 f 150. By the way it's a 5.4 triton. The engine I installed was suppose to have around 77,000 miles on it. I noticed when I got it that the dpfe sensor was melted off of it and so was the hose on one side. I never had that problem with the original engine. I took the dpfe sensor off the destroyed engine and put it on the used one I installed.
Low and behold in less that one day it melted off that one. I have read on here about cats being clogged and or the egr tube. I had no problem with my original engine so it's hard for me to believe the cats or clogged. I did happen to find a metal dpfe sensor off another truck and have installed. I am getting a rough idle now and not sure whats going on. I tried cleaning the egr tube the best I could without taking it off. Also the egr ports on the throttle body are cleaned and open and the egr valve itself is a new one.
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I just recently pulled the P1401 code on my truck and need to get the sensor fixed before my next emissions test. I called the dealer and they told for the new sensor.
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I have a 2000 Mountaineer AWD 5.0 with a faulty DPFE sensor. (as diagnosed by dealership) I'm relatively handy with tools and I was wondering if this is an easy fix.
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I have a p0401 generic exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficant detected code on my truck I was wondering what would be the first thing to check to get ride of this code? my truck hesitates from a stop while excelerating to several thousand rpm. should I try replacing the dpfe sensor? what does dpfe stand for? do they sell this sensor at oreilys or do you half to get this a the dealership?
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Removing the old cracked rubber brake line hoses on my daughters 2003 Ford Escape. Front left no problem. Old off, new on in 5 minutes. All the other won't come free. Can break nut loose, but just spins & spins. What is going on here? Did search and should be very easy.
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Subject Vehicle: 2003 Ford Escape Limited AWD V6
Mileage: 165,878
The front brake line hoses blew out (R & L) while driving in the city. The parking brake was ineffective in slowing the vehicle as it was traveling down hill. With no means of slowing, the vehicle was turned into a parking lot in an attempt to get on level ground where it was more controllable and could be stopped more easily. The parking lot was not large enough to slow the vehicle and a choice had to be made to crash into a building or drive off the edge of the parking lot to another lot that was approximately 4 feet lower. The 2nd option was chosen. Once the vehicle had landed with great force, it was directed uphill where it eventually came to a stop and put into park.
Unfortunately, extensive damage was done to the frame and underside of the vehicle including oil pan, exhaust system, engine mounts, radiator support frame and under body engine and transmission mounting points. I was told by the tow truck driver, the Firestone auto center and found in other research that Ford Escapes are known for rubber brake line failures. I have had vehicles much older than this and have never had a rubber brake line dry rot and rupture like these. This seems to be a known issue and should be addressed before more damage is done and more people injured or worse. We were lucky. This could have been much worse. Safety issues like this need to be addressed with an immediate recall.
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I simply cannot find a proper and complete vacuum diagram for this 2001 Escape V6. (The sticker has been removed from the car.)
The car is hard to start - very hard, but once warm it manages to run ok. There vacuum hose way down low, on the back of the block and under the starter, impossible to see but if my fingers aren't lying it's very near the knock sensor? This hose is rotten and disconnected at the top - it's just laying there kinda under the throttle body.
For the life of me I cannot a) identify what the hose goes to and b) figure out where to plug it back in. There are no empty ports I can find anywhere within reach of the floppy end of the hose.
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What is the inside diameter of an '05 Escape heater core hose?
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98 F150 2wd 5.4 -even though VIN says its "W" 4.6; it has a 5.4 with 4.6 timing setup-found. But that's a whole other story...
So, Replaced heater core. did the blend door too.
A week later it overheated and blew a heater hose off the core at the firewall (several times). Temp was up and down, forced me into cylinder head protect mode, so i called my mechanic.
Mechanic used a sniffer (blue liquid turns yellow) in my overflow tank and there was exhaust gas in it... so we replaced head gaskets, intake, timing, water pump, radiator and the rotted out rad support.
Got it done and back on the road, but a few weeks later and the heater hose quick disconnect blew off again, spewing coolant all over (again). This was what we thought was part of the original problem- head gasket allowing cylinder compression into the coolant passages. the little rubber hose that comes from the back of the intake and goes up into the heater core builds enough pressure to pop the disconnect right off and I dont know why. Like I said- I thought it was the head gasket blowing pressure into it but that's all been replaced. Why the pressure would be so high at that point, and how do I correct this?
This is my daily driver, so for now I've bypassed the heater core, but I'm afraid that pressure is gonna burst a hose and/or fitting again.
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Misfire occurs at highway speed under acceleration, the service writer stated "we have to do a coil swap" meaning they just swap them from around, and this is the SECOND time they have done this, according to them this is how VW wants them to address this, now I understand factory procedures cuz I work for a Porsche dealer, but wouldn't you think second time around you would replace those things.
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I crawled under my truck today (2011 6.7 w/delete kit, straight pipe) and found a black rigid hose had signs of oil being blown out. The hose was about midway towards the back on the drivers side. There was fresh oil around the outside of the opening of the hose and some on the frame around the hose opening. I traced it back up into the engine into something that I'm not sure what it is and couldn't find it on any engine diagrams. So I've taken some pictures, what it is, what it's connecting to in the engine and why it might be blowing oil out. There isn't a lot, I haven't seen any on the ground where I park but it's obviously coming out, I guess when I drive. Pics attached.....
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I have a 2015 GS350 F Sport (RWD). A clicking noise occurs during braking and acceleration, but only sporadically. It seems to occur more often during heavy breaking and/or acceleration. The sound seems to be coming from the driver's side A-pillar or the driver's side dash at any rate. Sometimes the sound is a single click and sometimes it clicks up to 3 times.
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I have a idle problem that happens on and off. with my 89 f250 351, it revs at 1900 rpm and when I unplug the vacuum hose to the map sensor it idles about 700 rpm. I've already replaced the map sensor and it does the same thing. i cant find any vacuum leaks anywhere and when i unplug the connector to the IAC nothing happens it continues to rev high.
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Was fixing leaking water temp sensor today and noticed the nipple under oil fill cap didn't have hose on it. After further investigation I found open spot on air intake hose with nothing in it. Both places seem to have vacuum, what goes here. BTW it is a 1999 Ranger ext cab with 3.0 flex engine and auto trans. Will try to get picture n post also...
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Last summer, the A/C on our 2012 Ford Escape stopped blowing cold air. We took it to our mechanic (who I trust). They checked for leaks but found none. They did an evacuation and recharge of the system. Cold air started blowing again! Then 2-3 weeks later, my wife says she saw a puff of smoke come out of the vents (not sure if it was smoke or vapor or what). The A/C stopped blowing cold air shortly after that. We took it back to the mechanic. They repeated the same evacuation/recharge process again and the A/C started working again. 2-3 weeks later, we saw the same puff and then no cold air.
That happened last Fall, so we waited until this spring to try again. Just took it back to mechanic. They checked the levels and the pressure was good before they did anything else. No leaks. They did the evacuation/recharge and the air is now blowing cold again. But, I have no reason to think it will last.
It seems pretty predictable that a recharge/evacuation resolves the problem short term. Why it's not lasting? What, if anything, could I try to diagnose? Seems that my mechanic does not know what else to try.
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My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata, stock except for being lowered and having a different muffler. Nothing really noteworthy about it. I did run over a big chunk of something a few years ago that cracked the plastic undertray under the nose of the car and dented the bottom row of the condenser, but the problem I'm having is more recent.
About a year ago the AC stopped working. I took it to one shop that found there was no refrigerant in the system. They refilled it, and a few hours later it stopped working again. I took it to another shop that detected a leak in one of the schrader valves (the low pressure I think). He replaced that, filled it, and it worked again for another few months.
Recently it stopped working again. I took it to the same guy that replaced the schrader valve and he found that the high pressure hose had failed. He replaced it and refilled the system. It worked for a few hours. Then when I was sitting at a drive thru, a massive cloud of refrigerant erupted from under the hood and the AC stopped working. Took it back to the guy and he found the high pressure hose had blown off. He put it back on, refilled it, and the same thing happened again. Sitting in traffic, the high pressure hose blew and all the refrigerant poured out.
I took it back to him again and he put the hose back on and refilled it again. We let the car idle for about 30 minutes with the AC on and it worked fine. During this he had the high pressure gauge hooked up and it read between 150 and 175 with the car idling (about 70 degrees F ambient temp). He didn't have the low side gauge hooked up. We did see that the fan is working and kicked up to the higher speed. He did say he checked the dryer and that it looked like the bag that held the desiccant was intact, but he didn't mention replacing the dryer in any of these visits.
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I have a 2004 Ford Escape that seems to have developed an appetite for one of its O2 sensors, about 1 a month for the past 3 months. Specifically Bank 1 Sensor 2. That is this the downstream sensor for cylinders closest to the firewall. I have replaced the sensor twice and the last sensor just popped the code to let me know it's passed on. The code is P0136 is the code that has popped every time. The live data shows a flat 0.0 off of the sensor.
So before I replace another sensor, what would cause the same sensor to die 3 times in a 3 month time period?
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I have checked and cleaned my K&N air filter so I din't think thats the problem... may be just old & weak... it collapses on acceleration and stays that way til I pop it out. What I can install? Don't want the same one in there now, something that is harder would be ideal. Been searching online for one that will fit my car. Pic below.
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Wife's 04 Escape threw the PO136 code for bank 1 sensor 2 02 sensor. Replaced it and light is off. Not convinced something else isn't causing it.
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