I had a transmission rebuild on a 2003 Ford Escape. After the rebuild the car makes a clicking sound when accelerating-- this is getting worse as the weather warms. Any thoughts?
View 1 RepliesI'd like to get some feedback on whether this is most likely a fuel pump or starter or other issue. My 2003 Ford Escape has about 83,000 miles on it and I've had very little trouble with it. A couple times lately, though, I've gone to start the thing, turn the ignition and nothing happens. The engine doesn't turn over, there's no clicking sound, nothing happens. The first time this happened, I tried to start it about three or four times, waited a minute or two and then the thing fired up fine.
I noticed that the low light fuel indicator was on - it had not been previously -- so I drove immediately to the gas station and put in 14.8 gallons. The thing has a 15 gallon tank. When restarting the vehicle, the ignition hesitated a couple seconds and then worked. Over the next couple days, the ignition would hesitate a bit -- but less and less each time -- and then kick in. After a couple days everything seemed back to normal.
So I thought that this was related to having the gas so low, although how the gas got that low without the warning light coming on is still a mystery.
Yesterday, the car started fine and I drove about 4 miles to my breakfast place. I was there about 45 minutes and the Escape started fine. I decided to stop for a newspaper about a mile down the road, came out and the car wouldn't start. Again with the dead silence. This time there was about 3/4 of a tank of gas, so it's not low fuel. Again I waited a minute or two, tried again, and after some hesitation the thing started.
I went to drive our Escape but when I pressed on the brake to switch it to drive, I heard a clicking sound coming from the center console, the brake pedal went all the way to the floor and there was a high pitched whining sound coming from the engine. I turn the car off and call up ADAC (Germany's road side assistance) and they come and find out part of a hose is missing from the engine and stick something on the end of it and the brakes worked fine. They did recommend I take it in to get it checked out but the mechanic here that speaks English doesn't have access to Ford parts. 2010 Ford Escape XLS 2.5L .....
View 5 RepliesSo I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
Every once in a while when I'm heading into the garage, slightly moving up over the edge from the driveway, the power goes away and there is this clicking sound. What's the deal?
View 7 RepliesI always thought the clicking sound I was hearing in the morning was coming from the engine. Then I realized the sound doesn't start until the car is in gear, either reverse or drive. After a few minutes it will go away but until it does, it is a noticeable sound. I still have a warranty. I am wondering what this could be.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 105,000 miles. The transmission (or transfer case) recently started to make a clicking sound. It usually happens in 2 wheel drive mode and gets louder as the car warms up. the clicking sound occurs in all gears except park. It also gets faster with car speed. If the car is put into 4 wheel (full time) mode the sound seems to go away or is not as audible. When you shift back in 2 wheel drive mode the clicking sound comes back.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 Hyundai Elantra GLS... Few months back I refueled my tank with degraded fuel (of course i did not know about it and some refueling stations in our country mix oils) and the problems started to arise with my car.. initially it all started with jerks and cracking sounds from the engine.. I then took it to the dealership and cleaned everything except the injectors but the jerking and cracking problem was solved.. but it still had a pickup problem.. whenever i tried to accelerate from 40km/h to above, the transmission seems to give a jolt make a clicking sound when downshifting.. and the acceleration compared to before has degraded.. I took it to the dealership again and their answer was drive it for 300 km more everything will b fine.. but i have driven the car for 1000 km more but the problem is not solving.. I don't know.. my warranty period is over.. in our country they only provide for 12000 km or 1 yr warranty.. now i have checked online and it seems Elantra transmission has bugged a lot of ppl..
View 19 RepliesI have an 08 escape v-6 fwd. i recently started hearing a clicking noise in the steering column. Seems to be getting worse and more noticeable. Front end seems normal. This clicking seems to be coming from right under the steering column cover near the turn signal area.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Escape 4x4Automatic with 97K on it. It has just started slipping in Drive. It will go in reverse just fine. If i put it into 2 or 1 it will take right off then I can move it into D but only with the OD off. If it is on the engine revs and you don't go anywhere. I have no lights flashing or bells going off. The fluid is clean and doesn't smell burned. Is my transmission toast? Is there a chance I can have it fixed cheaply or even do it myself?
Here are the symptoms once again.
Moves in Reverse.
Revs in D with OD on or off
Moves in 1 or 2 with OD on or off
When you get it moving you can put it into D with OD off and get 3rd gear. If OD is on It just revs.
When you come to a stop in D with the OD off and try to take off again it just revs. You have to use 1 or 2 to get moving again.
Will the car make it 300miles home so i can have it looked at?
2005 Escape CD4E gone...157,000 miles. Previous owner said it was slipping when shifting to 3rd. During test drive the vehicle would hardly move. Only code was for the output shaft. There were metal shavings on the sensor magnet as well as the magnetic drain plug. The drivetrain is now out of the vehicle.
Questions:
1. After a bit of research it seems like there are a lot of tweaks that should be done during a rebuild to make this tranny live longer. Is there any point to having a local trans shop try to rebuild it?
2. Given the reputation of this trans I assume it makes no sense to look at used ones, correct?
3. Any other options?
My transmission is manual, front wheel drive, 4 cylinder motor, plunger has come disconnected from shifting forks, car is stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. Would it be easier to change transmission or is replacing the plunger mechanism a viable option?
View 3 RepliesI have been having transmission problems in my 2005 Ford Escape due to my torque converter coming apart so I took it to a local transmission shop for a rebuild. After 2 days it was ready and I took it home today. I put it in reverse once and it was fine but the second time I tried to back out of my driveway it won't go into reverse. It will go forward though. His shop is closed and I am going to take it in tomorrow morning. I have a warranty but it says I am responsible for labor. Is this something I should have to pay to fix if it happened the same day I picked it up?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford Escape XLT, auto,V-6, with 129000 miles on it. It runs fine except for a couple of things. One is, at highway speeds the transmission will seem to shift up and down. Also sometimes at highway speeds I get what I describe as a "bump" or "shudder" I think it is coming from the transmission.
View 4 RepliesMy wife and I have a 2002 Escape and basically love it, however, at my last oil change, at 26,000 miles, I told the service manager about a shudder I was getting from the transmission when it down-shifted from overdrive. He suggested a transmission fluid change since I was in the range that Ford recommends.
That totally corrected the problem for almost 4000 miles, however, the shudder is slowly starting to come back at 30000 miles.
Just yesterday, I took it to my Ford dealer for inspection, oil change and it's 30000 mile check up and I mentioned this problem to the service manager. He suggested that I make an appointment.
The problem is that right now, it is happening so infrequently, if they took it for a test drive, it might happen right away, or not at all, but I know it will get worse as time goes on.
Question. Should I wait until the problem gets worse, and second, what might be the cause?
I have had my truck in the local ford shop because the fluid was a little bit burnt smelling, I had a flush done to it and then afterwards I noticed first gear started hesistating and then would go to second, when it warm it doesn't have any issues, shifts normal, but when cold or starting off even with running in the morning before going to work its still does that, I would like to find out before it starts becoming a serious problem....
View 6 RepliesMy girl has a 2008 Escape 3.0L FWD auto trans. Is it possible to install a transmission cooler? She wants to pull a small trailer/camper.
View 2 RepliesI noticed pool of oil yesterday morning, felt engine oil has leaked. Did oil change as it was due, the mechanic said the leak doesn't seem big enough, still overnight there was again lot of oil leaked, I kept a pan below to capture it. Checked it at auto shop near me and they said it is transmission fluid leak and probably due to driver side axle seal leak. I am going to take it again tomorrow to fix. How much do you think it will cost to fix if this is right diagnosis? This is 2005 4 cyl Ford escape with 150k on it. As per them if it is axle leak it will probably more of labor (2 hrs) than seal price.
View 11 RepliesI have two aging Escapes . Both are 2001 6 cyl 4WD over 100 000 miles. My Mechanic tells me that the trannies on these typically only last 80000 mi and that they cost about 3000.- to replace. I just found out i have to replace the steering rack on one of them which is a 900.- procedure. I love both cars and I really would like to drive them for a few more years.
View 14 RepliesAfter multiple problems with this vehicle already, it's about time that I made an account.
We have a 2003 Escape XLT with around 150k on it, and are now having transmission issues.
It's slipped some when cold and starting from a full stop and sometimes rolling stop, when trying to accelerate. Basically, it acts like it's in neutral until the gears "catch up". Once it's warmed up, it's fine even on steep hills. Also, going in reverse seems to act normally oddly enough.
We were hoping to get through winter as it was since it was easily manageable, but yesterday the O/D light started flashing and we have the pending error P1744. Nothing happened when the error came on including the normal slip since everything was warm at the time.
We'd of course, love to avoid completely replacing the tranny, but I'm mostly learning as I go with this one. Where to start narrowing out possibilities? The fluid was changed when we first got the escape about four years ago and is still at the right level and clear/red.
I have a 2007 Mercury Mariner with a 3.0 Liter V6 engine AWD. The transmission is giving me a problem. No shift into 2nd and 4th. Solenoid or band broken I think. Is the bolt hole pattern to attach the tranny to the engine different between the 3.0 V6 and the 2.3 I4?
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