Ford - Escape :: CEL Blinking And Engine Was Jerking A Little
Dec 6, 2012
I recently paid for a tune up on my 2003 Escape at a garage recommended to me by a friend. A couple weeks after the tune up my check engine light came on, I took it back to the same garage and the mechanic told me that one of the spark plugs was bad & he replaced it. Yesterday on my way to work the check engine light began blinking and the engine was jerking a little. I took the car to a very reputable mechanic and he just called to tell me that my car still has the original spark plugs in it and is desperate need of a tune up! I just paid $250 for a tune up a couple months ago! Did I get scammed? How should I confront the original mechanic?
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Intermittently blinking check engine light in a 2003(?) Ford Escape. I received a call from my fiance, who's about 45 minutes into a two hour drive. On the interstate, her check engine light started blinking, so she pulls off the interstate to a gas station (the light was blinking for maybe five minutes before she could stop, according to her). After she was off the interstate, but before she had turned the engine off, the blinking stopped.
She called me, and I looked up and directed her to an AutoZone about a half mile from where she was. Told her to drive there, and have them to try to read any codes from the engine. She drives over, engine light stays off the entire time. They hook up the reader, and there aren't any codes. My question is, if the check engine light stops blinking, and there aren't any codes for the reader, is the car safe to drive, or will she destroy the cat if she keeps going? Also, it's raining, if that matters for any reason.
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I have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
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I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done: Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).
Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. Oil is showing good on the dipstick. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the temp gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on every time it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but its probably been a little over a month. I went from 5w-20 Pennzoil, to 5w-30; wix filter. I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester....
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We bought a new 2002 Escape 4WD and it has been great. Just clicked 130k. However, yesterday my wife said the car clunked when putting in reverse, and then the OD light started blinking. Shortly after that the Escape would not drive in gear, just a spinning noise. After the car was shut off for a few, it would drive again, but not very far. Fluid is good, and it will only drive for a while. I noticed a broken vacuum line coming from the trans, but could't tell where it went.
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Girlfriends 04 escape airbag light is blinking code 37. Read something about it being on passenger side what do I look for? I just got done putting in 2 coils, 2 cats, egr, o2 sensor, intake gaskets upper and lower, PCV, injector orings all due to misfire sure there not connected just added info. Other problems include heated seat switch lights for a second then shuts off, and no cruise control. Need to get light off for inspection by end of month....
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I was driving today and felt my ABS kick in with a pulsing pedal, although I was on dry ground. From that point on, my ABS light stayed on and my 4X4 light will blink every minute or so 8 consecutive times. The ABS light has gone off a couple times but only for a second and the ABS light comes back on again. I did get the truck on a scanner and got the codes C1234, U2023, U0415. Tried to clear the codes, but the ABS light prevails.
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I'll try to explain what the truck is doing best I can. I'm not sure if it's the engine or tranny. When you lug the truck on a hill or put a load behind it and lug it the truck jerks like the engine is cutting out or the tranny is jerking, I can't tell which. You can drive it all day long on a flat road or small hills and you can't make it do it. It does it worse going up a hill with a load behind it. You can lug the truck on a steep hill let off the accelerator and mash it back down and it will do it almost every time. I've tried overriding the overdrive and it still does it. If you keep the rpms above 2000 up a hill it won't do it. I've had it checked by a transmission shop and they couldn't make the truck do it. Also it doesn't throw any codes or put the check engine light on when this happens. 2007 F150 supercrew 5.4 auto, with 88,000 miles.
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I have a 2000 ranger 4.0l 4x4 automatic transmission 5r55e. When I put it in drive I don't have any problems except in do it starts jerking when I give gas. When I put it in reverse I can move but as soon as I give gas it stalls the engine tranny was sitting in another truck swapped it with mine I changed the filter and 5 1/2 quart of oil.
I when to a transmission shop plugged it inn no codes and he said he would changes all solenoid and valve body gasket but he's not sure what is the problem. So I started to take out valve body and notice the oil is darkish red and was wondering if it was normal or not and if I'm taking that valve body out for nothing or should still go ahead ...
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I have a 2006 F250 King Ranch 6.0. At approx 45-50 mph when holding accelerator steady, there is a slight jerking like the engine is missing like the old gassers used to do. What could cause this? Have a ScangaugeII and doesn't show anything out of the ordinary!
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It's a Ford Freestar 2006, with 73,000 miles. We had to have the catalytic converter replaced within the first year we had it at no cost to us do to a solid engine light that we immediately took care of. The original was found to be defective. The only symptom it had was it would run rough at around 40-45miler per hour. After the converter was replaced it ran fine w no issues. The in Dec of 2014 it came back on after I had been driving for over 30mi and then idulling for 20min in a school line. I called the shop immediately and took it in the next business day...I didn't drive it at all that weekend. The mechanic checked it out and found nothing wrong with it.
Our best guess was I had let the gas run down to low (first time ever I had driven w it's the idot light on). They did an oil change and still everything checked out ok. During the transmission fluid check they told me I should hear the transmission fluid flushed and replaced in the near future but it wasn't needed right away. The van has done fine until this last week. We've had a lot of rain and fog...my husband ran it for a few days and said it did fine. Then this morning I took my husband to his truck...we had been driving for 40min with speeds up to 50mph.I had idyldeld for about 15min while he loaded his truck with no rough running. NO ISSUES. It was raining and very foggy!!! After I dropped him off and went back the exact same way, about 10min later and going about 50mph suddenly the check engine light started to blink.
I wasn't in a safe place to pull over, so I slowed down, put my hazards on, and vegan praying. I was going to try and get to the Sheetz which was about a 1/4 mile ahead of me. It blinked for 3min and it was off. The van never ran rough, jerked, shook, or anything. I Drove it further to church and asked for one of the guys to check it out. NO CODE!!! Said to keep an eye on it and call the er mechanic on Mon morning. Keep it to speeds under 40. Is it truly safe to drive to church in the morning and take the kids to school????? Was it a false code??? Is it the transmission???? I've never had a van this messed up!
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My hyundai accent 2005, have problem of jerks /die speed after engine get warm, also increase if AC on, when I starts car in morning it works great and no problem but after 3 or 5 km as engine get hotter speed kills,but it happens more or worst in evening at 4 when returning from office and temp is 45+ in riyadh, saudiarabia.
I change air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark cables, also use fuel injector cleaner but still problem remains, I want to tell you its start when I changed engine valve cover gasket due to oil leak, as I changed this problem suddenly appeared, I went to other mechanic but he told me the problem not in valve cover gasket,it is somewhere else he clean my throttle body ,and its works for 2 day only that i felt the problem solved but after two days problem appeared again,there is no engine light power on for any electronic malfunctioning.
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When I start up my engine, I hear a chain noise coming from the top of the engine. It's like a belt running chains. Also when I reverse the DSG it's a jerking sensation normal or should i get it fixed by VW.
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This miss feels like the engine is stopping not just missing but jerking the car for one cylinder. If I just barely hold speed it is minimized or if I step on it it will stop so I'm pretty sure it's not ignition wires or coils etc.. I would suspect pre-ignition but it's been going on a long time ( a year at least) while I've been half fast trying to figure it out so if it's pre-ignition then this is a hell of a strong engine. I have suspected a slightly sticky injector because of the working fine at more throttle. 1997 3.4DOHC Monte Carlo
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I have a 1997 GTI with 140K miles and standard transmission with a problem. I have taken it to a mechanic but to no avail. At random times, usually between 2nd and 3rd gear and sometimes in 1st gear, the car will jerk as if the car has no fuel being pumped to the engine. The mechanic told me that it could be several problems and recommended having the CO2 sensor changed. Since having the monitor changed the car was performing better but yesterday it died in traffic and did not start again for 30 minutes. At this point I do not want to pump any more money into the car before fully understanding the problem and potential solution. I also know that for a full diagnostic I will need to provide more information.
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While the car is at a full stop it idles at 500 rpm. I am assuming this is normal. But randomly the accelerator dips and the entire car jerks and feels like the engine is going to choke.
This started happening when the vehicle was at 10K miles and I took it to the dealer but the problem did not repeat itself there. They said they ran all sorts of diagnostics and came up with nothing. At this time the problem would occur may be a few times a week, while waiting at a red light, etc.
Now the vehicle is a 30K miles and it is happening more frequently. Several times a day.
I recorded a video of it to better explain the problem.
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2005 Ford Escape, 4-cylinder with ~75,000 miles. I experience engine misfire when driving on the highway after 1+ hours that only occurs when I'm going DOWNHILL. The misfire will last between 36-41 seconds and then goes back to operating fine. Doesn't occur on every downhill and doesn't occur on steep downhills during in-town driving. The diagnostics always show the error for cylinders 1 and 4. The following repairs have been made:
Replaced all 4 spark plugs and ignition coils, replaced fuel filter, fuel injectors cleaned and tested showing no concerns.
Misfires reoccur during next long drive 6 months later, compression test performed and failed. All four fuel injectors replaced and one connector replaced.
Misfires reoccurred again during next long drive 4 months later.
I am stumped as to why the problem keeps happening, why it only occurs when going downhill, and why it seems to last for a fairly consistent length of time.
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Twice now (and maybe a third time once I start my van again) we've had problems with the van chugging and then the service engine light blinking. Both times it happened in the past, we took it to a mechanic who said it needed a tune-up - new spark plugs, wires, etc. I'm curious as to why this keeps happening. Mileage is around 105K. It first happened last summer, second time was in December. Now it's March. What could cause this problem to repeat?
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I am having issues with a 2006 Gen II Prius that just approached 120K miles. When going down a hill at approx. 35-40mph, the engine jerks when downshifting or when coasting.
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2002 Jetta 2.0.... car was jerking when accelerating and check engine light was flashing, severe loss of power and when stopped at lights it would shake and the rpms would drop and go back up... took it in and was told to get the coil pack replaced. One week later new coil pack - check engine light is back on and yesterday same problem (car was idling rough, and severe jerking/flashing check engine light happened again). Took it to autozone to read the code it is giving P0420.... The shop said i might need new plugs and wires, which were replaced with bosch parts one year ago. Any chances these went bad so quickly?
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So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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