Ford - Escape :: 2010 - Faulty Air Bag - Won't Start After Stopping For Short Duration?
Sep 26, 2011
I bought this Escape used in Dec '10 with 29,000 miles. It is now at 36,500 (Sept '11). I have had it in for service 3 times in 3 months.
The passenger airbag seems faulty- if the seat is empty, the light will flip off (meaning airbag is on). If I sit in it, the light will go on and off intermittently. I'm 135 lbs- and the serviceman saw it happen as we drove around- yet when the car was given back to me after a week and a half, they stated they could not duplicate the problem and that no issues were found.
Now, I'm having starting issues. Once over Labor day weekend- I had driven my car, parked it, and went to get in it 5 minutes later- no start. No cranking, no clicking. All lights/radion come on. After sitting for about 20 minutes and attempting to start every couple minutes, it roared to life and was fine. Took in for service, and again- no codes, could not duplicate, so they sent it home.
Car sat for a week (I'm a student- it doesn't get much action except on weekends). Then yesterday, I drove it about 15 minutes, parked, came back 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start again. Again, after about 20 minutes of sitting and attempting to start, it started.
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2001 Audi A4 1.8T... Driving down the highway the other day, a lovely place to be stricken w/car problems, the accelerator seemed to just up and quit on me. I went from a solid 70mph to 30, then w/in five seconds it came back to life, thrusting us forward back to speed, then within another five seconds, it cut out and I just made it onto the shoulder. Had it towed home. . . it will crank, but won't start, and now am wondering if it's worth the fix. Dealer just replaced a recalled part and gave me a supermarket list of to-fixes, none of which seem like they directly relate, especially w/out a check engine on or specific error codes. Have replaced the MAF sensor, Vacuum Check Valve, Gas tank/pump, Battery and Alternator w/in the past several years.
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My parents have a 08 trailblazer and the brakes stick. basically sometimes you stop and wait at a light or a stop sign, let off the brake and you can feel them stick for about a second and then release. they took it to the dealer, they said they felt it also but dont know what it is. we know its related to the brakes cause they take it there and they say they cleaned up the brakes and then it wont do it for a week or two then it will start doing it again. its still under warr. What it might be?
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Maybe it's because I've been away for two weeks and out of the RC, but when I drove for the first time in a while the car seems like it's noticeably bouncy on relatively smooth roads.
Again it could be my break from driving it. I mostly drive on Sport+ mode.
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I have about 160K on this truck, head gasket was repaired about 50k ago by former owner, has run pretty well and trouble free since I purchased it four years ago. Recently replaced plugs, coil packs, wires resulting in improved running/mileage. However, I've been getting a secondary air injection system error code for six months or so, (both before and after 'tune up'), performed snorkel modification to prevent uptake of road splashed water, checked fuses next to battery (good). Up to now I just ignored this sole error code since engine was running well. TPS checks 'good.'
Recently the engine would occasionally run poorly for short duration (@ all RPMs & regardless of throttle) and up to now simply parking overnight or just stopping briefly at a store would seem to reset the poor operation. Unfortunately within the last week it now runs like crap all the time: over revs for upshift, poor power, almost feels as if a cylinder is missing entirely, or timing has gone horribly 'off.' No other error codes, no obvious vacuum leaks. Ran through two bottles of Techron, no change. Does the 'toggling' of the engine running poorly/well offer any clues? Sticky injector?
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I took my '02 Passat in a couple weeks ago when the steering wheel controls and horn stopped working. They replaced a fuse. About 10 days later, I experienced the same problem. That time, they said that the steering wheel was all shorted out and needed to be replaced. Five days later, again the same problem. Now the dealer says it's some faulty switch from the fuse panel, which caused the short of the old steering wheel. Since that wasn't replaced, that's why I experienced the problem again. Could that have been the only problem? Or could that really have fried the steering wheel, too. Am I being taken, and do I need to fight to get some of that money back? Or is this legit? How can I verify that what they said was the problem actually was, and that I'm not left paying for their mistaken diagnosis?
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2003 PT Cruiser won't start immediately after short trip with a short stop. Always does start after turning the key and holding it to start position. The check engine light is often on and the code is for a cam shaft sensor or resistor sensor. A companion problem is the cruise control. If the check engine light is OFF and I use the cruise control, it works fine for a while and then the check engine light comes on at the same instant the cruise control turns off. Are these 2 issues connected? How much should it cost to have the sensor replaced? The car always stays running once it starts and the problem occurs randomly. What are the consequences of not repairing it?
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I have a 2003 ford escape (V6 Limited/Automatic) that just hit the 145,000 mile mark. With routine maintenance and minor repairs, I am hoping to make the car last at least 200,000 miles. I currently have an annoying, intermittent problem that I have not been able to solve on my own. The car has no performance issues, but when the vehicle come to a stop while in drive (at a red light, etc) the car make a low humming noise that is coming from the front of the vehicle. The noise stops once I get the vehicle back in motion or when I throw the car into neutral. The humming also changes when I turn the steering wheel, but I think that might have to do with the load on the engine changing. The only thought I have is the torque converter, but I am not sure how I would test or rule that out.
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My dad says hes stuck somewhere with his 2010 prius,, he says it wont start, and the signal is stuck on.
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2016 2L Escape. My question is this. I've had the vehicle for the past 12 months and each rainy season here in California, I admit its not often we get rain but we have it now and its about time. Anyway while driving in wet conditions I get a squeak from what I think is the right rear sway bushing and it only happens during starting out, stopping and parking lot speed bumps all at low speed. No noise at when driving at speed. I've had it to the dealer 3 x to fix, they grease the bushing and it seems ok for awhile but not he permanent fix I was hoping for.
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I have an automatic 2000 Volvo S70 with 202,000 miles. Over the past couple years, I've had an intermittent start problem that seems to only occur after a medium duration shutdown (15min-3hours) following a long duration of operation (about 2 hours or more, usually highway). When the problem occurs, all the lights on the dashboard light-up like everything is normal, but when I turn the key to the start position, nothing happens - silence, the car makes no attempt to start. Usually, I'll wait anywhere from 3 minutes to an hour or more and it'll start with no problem, like there was never a problem in the first place.
It seems to happen more frequently when it's hot outside, but it's hard to say for sure. And it seems to be random, within the parameters previously described; example: it happened twice on my recent drive to vacation, but not at all on the return trip home. Both days were hot, and all stops followed a similar pattern of operation/shutdown. And it never happens after a short stop following long operation; I've never been stuck in front of a gas pump. And I can run errands all day long, stop a dozen times in the blazing heat, and she'll start every time without a problem. It never happens first thing in the morning, and it never happens after I've been at work all day (even if the car has been parked in the sun all day).
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She has a 2010 Escape 4-cyl and the A/C isn't working. It's miserable hot and she has small kids.
The compressor won't start. I put a gage set on the low pressure side and it's sky high, so it should be coming on at least. I also used a Launch scan tool on the OBD port and the HVAC control is commanding the compressor to start, so it's not that - which leaves the $300 compressor or the $9 a/c relay as the next steps. Unfortunately, I only see this car occasionally so I haven't really been able to get under it to check for voltage at the a/c compressor or see if it's a ground issue, etc.
I'd like to go after the relay next but can't find a a diagram I trust as to which one it is. I've heard mention that it's the WOT relay and also that there's an A/C Clutch relay. Any reliable schematic of the underhood fuse block and which position it's in? I took the cover off and they're numbered but there's no map. Also, what p/n is the relay? I'd like to just pop in a new one and see if it takes care of it.
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My wife has a 2010 Ford Escape. When we try to start it you have to push the key in REAL hard to get it to crank. It's been doing this for a while and seems to be getting worse. It took her 10 minutes before she could get it to crank earlier today. Our mechanic couldn't find anything wrong the first time we went in.
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I have a 2010 which lately has been having difficulty starting on chilly days. That's saying something considering i live in Memphis, where the cold days are relatively mild. Sometimes it will hesitate on turning over, start and then my gauges flutter and the car shakes a little. Other times it makes a high pitched cranking noise. I haven't taken it anywhere yet because it seems to exclusively happen in the morning after the car has been sitting for 10 hours.
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After two repair shops telling me there is nothing wrong with my car, I'm at a loss. My car is in great condition except when it decides not to start. On hot days, if I am doing several errands I need to worry about if my car will work after the first stop. After driving for a bit, when I turn off my car and return a short while later it will not start. The car will attempt to turn over and the battery works just fine, it just won't start. Also, another issue I think is related and connected to this is that on car trips lasting more than 15 minutes, the air conditioning will stop working. The air will blow but the cool 'conditioning' aspect will fail and I will be stuck with hot air blowing at me. The catch to this is that after waiting 2 hours for a tow, the driver was able to start my car on the first try, thus making the tow unnecessary. Obviously my car is not 'perfect' like the repair shops are telling me....
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2010 F150 5.4, 6 speed... I am fast approaching the end for the factory 60,000 mile drive line warranty. I have had the slow speed 0-2 miles per hour shudder since 3,000 miles. The shudder downshifting from 2nd to 1st when stopping. As well as the highway shudder when gradually accelerating above 55 mph (empty and loaded)
The dealer that I purchased the truck from has driven with me several times and experienced the problems. They reflashed the computer at 5,000 miles. it made the shudder frequency double. i.e., twice as rapid. Reflashed again with no change.
I finally called Ford Motor Company, and they were surprised that I had not filed a complaint earlier. They followed up with the dealer.....who's service dept opted not to work on the vehicle again. I am now working with another dealer, and will be starting from scratch.
Long story short. I see that some have replaced torque converters, transmissions, clutch plates, valve bodies, and on and on....
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I have a starting issue with our older Explorer.
Vehicle: 1998 4.0 SOHC
Owned for 6+ years, no major issues to date.
225K miles, well maintained.
Problem: Vehicle will start fine on first start of day, or any other time after being parked for enough time to cool off like it is in the AM. Example, drove for about an hour and stopped for a hamburger. In restaurant for about 15-20 minutes go outside to vehicle, no start. let sit for about another 20 or so minutes and starts fine. Runs good, NO code given, ever. Has happened multiple times. Fuel is present in fuel rail as I poked Schrader valve in fuel rail and gas is present and with very good pressure. My guess seeing NO check engine light ever is something ECM or ignition coil related?
Haven't tried to troubleshoot yet. Any initial common problem concerning no start with warm engine?
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I've searched, and gone back through my computer history and can't find it. I have seen a thread here which Mark contributed too which said what the max temps were and for how long etc. I know book is 230 and optimum is around 165 but there was some degree of play in that.
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I have a 5.0 Explorer 1998 and it has a problem for which I cannot find a definite solution, everyone says a different thing. The problem is that when the weather is hot, sometimes the engine does a strange thing. You ride the car for some time, especially if you do it on a high speed so the engine is really hot (but no overheating symptoms) - and then you kill the engine and leave it for a few minutes - to walk into a store, let's say.
After that you attempt to start the engine... sometimes it starts, but there were several times when it refused to catch, it cranks, at first tries to start, but stalls... then it just cranks without even attempting to start. And I had one occasion when it stopped working right in the middle of the road while crawling in traffic, but it was really HOT outside. Luckily, all other cases were in our town, so I could at least walk home. So, the problem seems to overheating of something, as in normal or cold weather it never happens. And every time, after the car is left to stay in place for some time, an hour or more, cannot say exactly - it starts perfectly!
I am really tried of this and want to eliminate the reason. But I am hearing so many different opinions about this problem. I thought that it could be the overheating of the fuel pump. But then it would stop working while moving, not after you shut the engine off and the pump cannot be still working and overheating. The only place where the heat can build up when you stop and turn the engine off is under the hood, as the fan stops, the coolant pump stops and the air isn't blowing as the car isn't moving. But the pump is in the tank! And I never ride on empty fuel tank, I always keep some level, lately I tried to keep it even higher, but yesterday it refused to start when the tank was almost half-full. Also, if it was just dying - a dying fuel pump gives certain symptoms like slow acceleration, engine shaking and trying to stall when you press the pedal, sudden stalling, uneven idling etc. In this case, nothing like this. The car's behavior is absolutely normal, acceleration good, normal idle. It happens ONLY under certain conditions, involving heat.
Other people say that it can be due to low pressure in the fuel ramp and the gasoline is starting to boil at some moment, when the temperature under the hood rises to a certain point. As a reason they name the pump (but as I said, I doubt it) or the fuel pressure control valve - don't know its exact name, it's a valve which maintains a certain pressure in the fuel ramp and releases excessive pressure by returning some fuel to the tank. However, when this valve gets stuck and doesn't maintain pressure, it mostly influences the cold start, as the fuel pressure drops and you have to crank for a long time while the pump is building the pressure again. But my car has never had any problems with the cold start, it's always instantaneous. Also, when this problem occurs and you start the engine after it cools down, it catches instantly which means THERE IS pressure in the ramp. So I don't believe in low pressure, gasoline boiling and resulting vapor jams.
And finally, I read that it may be caused by defective/dying engine temperature or crankshaft position sensors. As for the temp sensor, I will replace it tomorrow anyway. I am also thinking of having a look at the crankshaft sensor, where it's located on 5.0 V8?
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My Sport Trac will periodically fail to start after shutting it down for a short period. It doesn't stall, but won't start after parking for just a few minutes to a couple of hours. I've had it towed twice, but it always starts after it gets to the shop and the mechanic can't find a problem or a code. It has happened 4 times and seems to start again after it sits for 3 hours or more, definitely by the next morning. A fuel system cleaner had been tried and the fuel filter has been replaced, but the problem continues.
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Having issues with some or all of the coil packs going bad? Because it looks like all 6 coil packs on my R32 went bad...
Brief history, my car stopped turning on about a month ago, it was working just fine when one day when going to lunch it stopped wanting to turn on, I had to crank it about 3 or 4 times and it turned on, I went to lunch then got back but when I left for the day (at work) I once again didn't want to turn on and that's about it. I had to tow it home and a couple of friends and I began trying to figure out why we tested the fuel system and electrical. We could get no little to no spark on all 6 coil packs. Ran vag com and nothing would come up, I tested the Crank position sensor and it tested fine but broke the connector so I replaced it with a new CPS. Still, would not start.
So after a couple of days, we decided to try 6 known good coil packs and it fired right up. So yeah I've never heard of all six coil packs going bad at the same time, so what could cause that ? btw soon after the car started, about the 3rd time turning it off and on the starter decided to stop working, I'm thinking it was because of all the times I tried to start it, it was allotted. : thumb down
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