Ford - Escape :: 2008 - Loud Noise Then Stopped?
Sep 27, 2016
yesterday I drove my car and as I was turning the corner (luckily very slowly), all of a sudden I heard a loud noise and the car stopped. The rack pinion, wheel housing and what ever other things there are dropped to the ground because they were rusted through. Never had a warning. Is that a problem with these Fords, of course the car is totaled. Does insurance cover this, does Ford cover this? First time in my life, never buy another Ford again. Also have a Ford focus 2008, looks rusty underneath. Should I get rid of it ?
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I own a 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid and when I step on the brakes (how hard I apply the breaks it does not matter - it always happens at low speeds) it makes a loud noise as if the disk brake is not well secured on its mount and the breaking action is forcefully shaking it off its mount.
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2008 Escape V6
Got the oil changed at Walmart and they told us there was oil in the air filter and we should replace the pcv valve. Before we changed it the oil pressure light had started coming on when the car is stopped, either in gear or park. Once the gas is hit it goes off, even at something like 1 mph. Well I changed the pcv valve but the oil pressure light is still doing the same thing. What should be my next step?
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2001 Escape 4x4, automatic trans 4x4
Getting a pretty loud "whirring" or humming noise from under the car while driving 30+ mph. It seems like a wheel bearing noise, but coming from directly under the center console area. My thoughts are either the driveshaft center support or the transfer case, I can't find much on it though.
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I have a 2000 X 5.4... There is a loud roaring noise when releasing gas pedal or stopped (doesn't matter whether its in park or drive)...noise stops when giving gas...the noise is almost like a bull horn...there are no engine lights on so can't get a code...
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I have had 2 transmissions brought to me, both complaining of no reverse. The first belongs to my nieghbor, its an 2005 F-150 4wd. He says last week it made a loud "POP" noise and reverse stopped working. This is a truck he uses for his work and its got 337K on it. A remanufactured transmission was installed at 70K.
The fluid in this transmission was very dark and dirty. I doubt it had been changed since the reman transmission was installed. Once I got the transmission apart, I found the reverse band was worn and broken. This is cast band, so it would make a rather loud "POP" when it breaks.
The sungear bushing was worn and grooved and scored the snout on the direct drum. The Over drive band was burned and pitted.
Since this is a remanfactured transmission the case is painted gray, the paint is blistering from heat. The torque converter has been so hot the paint blistered and the metal was rusting.
The sealing rings on the pump stator had cut mild grooves into the reverse drum and the snap ring that holds the intermediate one way clutch on the reverse drum was bent and about to fail.
The over drive servo snap ring was broken, which seems to be common on these trucks. The aftermarket replacement snap ring is hardened to resist breaking and is black in color
This transmission will be rebuilt with new gaskets, seals, clutches, both bands and reman torque converter. The overdrive band and low/reverse band will be upgraded with new bands that have a high carbon friction material, that will resist burning, installing a spiral snap ring and replacing the direct drum and sun gear.
The second transmission that lost reverse is from a 2006 F150 4wd. The owner of this truck removed the transmission himself and brought it to me. I am told the truck has a lift kit and larger tire. The residual fluid is clean and bright red. The owner has a drain plug installed in the pan, so I can assume the fluid is changed regularly.
Once I got the transmission part, the only damage I found was a broken reverse band. It appears this band has been broken for a while since 2 of the fingers on the band that would still engage were worn to the metal and and the friction material is burned. The band surface on planetary gear was slightly scored. Everything else in the transmission shows very little wear.
This transmission will be rebuilt with new gaskets, seals, clutches, both bands and reman torque converter. The overdrive band and low/reverse band will be upgraded with new bands that have a high carbon friction material, that will resist burning. Also installing a spiral locking ring on the intermediate one way clutch.
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I have an 08 escape v-6 fwd. i recently started hearing a clicking noise in the steering column. Seems to be getting worse and more noticeable. Front end seems normal. This clicking seems to be coming from right under the steering column cover near the turn signal area.
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Today I was at a light, stopped with brakes on. Heard weird loud flapping noise like when you put a playing card against spokes of a bicycle. Smoke appeared. No warning lights so I thought it was the car ahead of me - especially since the noise stopped when I pressed the gas. Drove 11 miles home, 9 of them uphill. No problems. Parked for about an hour. Then drove about 4 miles and was again stopped, again the noise (not so loud this time) and some smoke from under the hood. I was right next to a gas station, pulled in and very nice attendant checked fluids, etc. No problems found. He spilled a bit of antifreeze when checking the radiator level. I then drove straight to a Honda dealer. They have proclaimed it a broken radiator on the basis of a brief exam and a sighting of a bit of antifreeze. No leaks anyplace, car was no overheating, the vehicle has less than 50 thousand miles and is regularly maintained.
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The sound system in my 2008 LS 460 suddenly stopped and a loud thumping noise comes up in all speakers even if the radio is turned off. There is no music at all only that loud noise. Bluetooth does not work as well as command voice and the GPS guiding system. I had to remove the fuse to stop the thumping sound. To answer my telephone I must pull on the side of the road and turn off the motor. Car dealership said that it is the first time they see that. The car is scheduled to be looked at in a couple of days.
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I have a 2005 F150 with the 5.4 in it and its getting ready to hit 90k here soon. I just bought the truck less than a month ago and Ive developed a very loud knock at idle. It sounds like it's coming from down in the oil pan. That's where I can hear it the best. When I give it gas and it reaches about 1400rpm it goes away to where I can't hear it. What would this be? I checked the oil level and its fine. I thought at first maybe it was just a heat shield from the cats loose and rattling but its gotten worse and louder. I'm not driving it until Monday when I take it back to the dealer because I still have some warranty left but I would like to know what I'm looking at maybe. This isn't the cam phasers is it? I've read somewhere that these motors don't get good oil pressure in the heads some places?
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5.4. So I have a 2004 F-150 that just passed 80,000 miles and a month ago it started making a very loud noise on startup, but only cold startup, meaning if I haven't used the truck in about three hours. Now I went on youtube to research and found a video of a truck making the exact same noise! Here is the link:
2004 f150 cold start knocking noise - YouTube ....
Need to verify what this is??? Some people are saying cam phasers and some are saying I'll need a brand new engine!
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I have a loud tapping noise in my 07 5.4 triton. when its really cold on the first start up I cant here the noise but when it gets warm its tap tap tap again.
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Everything might be a slight exaggeration. But fuse 14 covers Backup lamp and day time running lights relay coil, A/C Pressure Switch, Redundant Speed Control, Heated PCV (5.4L), Trailer Tow back-up lamps, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror.
This is a 2006. 4.6L V8, SCREW. I don't have reverse park aid. When the fuse blows there is a loud screeching noise from under the hood. Can't identify it because the fuse wont go while I am sitting idling in the driveway. The parking break i9ndicator comes on, the ABS indicator comes on, Cruise control goes away and the A/C quits cooling but still blows. I assume EC Mirror means Electronic Compass Mirror. So I need to figure out where the short is.
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Last summer, the A/C on our 2012 Ford Escape stopped blowing cold air. We took it to our mechanic (who I trust). They checked for leaks but found none. They did an evacuation and recharge of the system. Cold air started blowing again! Then 2-3 weeks later, my wife says she saw a puff of smoke come out of the vents (not sure if it was smoke or vapor or what). The A/C stopped blowing cold air shortly after that. We took it back to the mechanic. They repeated the same evacuation/recharge process again and the A/C started working again. 2-3 weeks later, we saw the same puff and then no cold air.
That happened last Fall, so we waited until this spring to try again. Just took it back to mechanic. They checked the levels and the pressure was good before they did anything else. No leaks. They did the evacuation/recharge and the air is now blowing cold again. But, I have no reason to think it will last.
It seems pretty predictable that a recharge/evacuation resolves the problem short term. Why it's not lasting? What, if anything, could I try to diagnose? Seems that my mechanic does not know what else to try.
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Have a 2012 Escape and the first level on my fan stopped working. All other speeds are good to go. Should I replace the blower resistor? If so, can you provide details on replacing?
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I have a 2010 Escape and the a/c clutch stopped engaging I've checked all fuse's and swapped relay's around. I need to know how to jump the low pressure switch I would like to figure this out.
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I have an '08 F250 w/ a 6.4. A couple days ago I started getting a loud squeaking when I turn to the right. It only does it under speed, almost like it needs the weight transfer to make the sound. In addition it's only when I turn at a like 45 deg angle, I can turn less or more to make it stop. But it has gotten louder and louder.
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Whenever I am driving 60 km/h or more a loud noise seems to come into play. The noise sounds like a really loose ball bearing spinning. Then sounds like a turbine slowing down when going 30 or under. The only issue is the noise does not go away until the truck shifts down into 1st gear. And when doing so the truck jerks enough for everyone in the vechile to feel it. This problem only seems to come when it's rainy or slushy outside and even then does not happen very often. I have had the truck to ford and another mech. Nobody can seem to pinpoint the problem. 2006 f150 5.4l ....
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Some family members borrowed my truck, and when they returned I have a loud whining noise coming from the rear axle, which I have determined is a 9.75 rear. I checked oil level and it was high enough, but has a slight leak from the pinion seal. Everything feels solid but I have nothing to compare it to.
Its on a 2005 Super Cab with the 5.4L 183,000 miles. The front pinion seal was replaced in Feb 2 years ago, by the dealer's mechanic, who may have been a shade tree mechanic.
I am a Youtube Certified Mechanic, as in, I watched about 10 videos of people working on their 9.75 differentials, and realize I don't have all of the tools to do the job, such as a press, or race drivers, or the special gauge.
How many of you have tackled this issue? What did you find? What am I looking at for cost? I am on a very small budget.
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2002 Escape. The over drive deselect button stopped working on my wife's escape. Is their a fuse other than the box under the hood? Transmission was rebuilt not too long aga and has been running fine till the other day.
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My car ( 2.4L 2008 Camry ) is making a tapping noise while in gear and stopped. If I rev it slightly, start moving, or move it out of gear the noise will go away.
I was able to trace the noise to the hard pipes attached to the radiator for the transmission cooler. In particular the ~6in one that runs towards the center of the radiator.
A part of the body directly below the hard pipe was slightly bent up and hitting the hard pipe.
A quick way to verify this is the root cause of your noise is by getting a buddy (or chocking) the wheels with parking brake engaged then put the car in gear and manipulate the radiator. Be very careful when doing this I am not responsible for property damage or bodily harm due to this troubleshooting technique.
Pressing down on the top rubber isolators or putting some pressure on the fan shroud should stop the tapping noise.
On my car I persuaded the metal and added some foam strips to prevent to noise. If I press down on the radiator it sometimes will comes back. If this bothers me more I will need to pull the radiator and do a more thorough examination.
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