I've got a tin-ey metal rattling sound that only periodicly comes from the engine block itself. it sound like someone is shaking a coffee can with a penny in it. It almost sounds like something is vibrating. (05 ford escape 6cyl over 100K)I've watched videos of people on youtube that have a knock, and it doesn't sound like that.
View 3 RepliesWhere the blower motor resistor is located on the '05 model.
View 11 RepliesMy 2006 AWD LTD 500 has about 52000 miles on it; a slight rattle/clunking noise is intermittently heard on driver's side in engine compartment. Took it in to dealer who says motor mount is cracked and front stabilizer bar joints are worn and both need replacing. Car has only been driven on highways or for short trips (3-4 miles) and has had no impacts nor been driven over rough roads or run over any potholes or such. Should the motor mount be damaged? At 52K miles?? Never heard of such a thing. Ditto, the stabilizer bar joints: worn out in under 60K miles? What can I do about this? Who seek relief from? Ford warranty is, of course, over, and supplemental warrenty will only cover motor mount replacement but not stab bar. Are these parts routinely wearing out at such an early date that repair shops can reap the rewards???
View 4 RepliesI have 2000 accent 1.5 man trans have had it for 2 years it runs good have done alot of regular maintenance but since i have owned it there was a rattle coming from motor area assumed it was heat shield of some kind, but then i noticed it stops when clutch is engaged or when driving. it is also not there when first started on very cold mornings. wondering if it is a bearing in the clutch area?
View 2 RepliesMy girlfriend has an 05 ford escape with a 3.0 the car has been well maintained it has 184,000 miles on it. Over 3/4 of the miles were highway. I have noticed that it has had a slight engine ticking noise i have researched and some say the tensioner some say retorque the cams? I have not been around these cars much. I replaced the alternator the other day and serp belt all pullys felt fine. The engine used to tick all the time here lately sometimes when it gets started it does it and sometimes it doesn't.
Also what fluid is supposed to be ran in the tranny the owners manual just says mercon, so do i just run regular strait mercon fluid in it? or does it need like mercon V. The car runs fine i just want to fix the ticking noise if its something major. Just some thing I've hear about on a buddys newer f150 with a 5.4 the oil supply ports that lube the timing chain tensioner got plugged and it developed a ticking noise? I am a mechanic so i can check and do anything i just dont know where to start on this car?
I test drove 2 2005 escape limited v6 2wd today. Both of them were pretty loud in the cabin at idle. The noise and vibration did lessen after the car started to move. Is this normal for escapes or does this indicate a problem somewhere? Like engine or transmission mounts.
View 2 RepliesThis week my check engine light came on and I could here a rattling noise. Took the car to ford service center and my paperwork says "E29 has torq converter code, trans rattling, recommend exchange trans." Nothing but problems on this ford freestyle, first a bunch of recall issues with the throttle body that had to be fixed twice, the enertia switch, and now this.
View 1 Replies2005 2.3Liter 4wd Mariner, 225k miles
I have been experiencing clunk noise on the front end when braking or accelerating and turning wheels.
I have replaced: front control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and stabilizer links and 2 days ago I replaced strut mounts and bearings.
The steering is smooth after the strut mounts replaced but I can still hear cluck noise mostly on left now when going over bumps, braking and accelerating.
Car also has new engine/trans mounts.
I am so lost right now because I cannot figure out what is it. The only thing I didn't replace are the struts but the I test them and they seem to function fine.
So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
2005 F150 Lariat package with 63,000 miles. Ok... thought I had a cat crawl up in thew engine to stay warm...but alas no cat found. Got off of work and headed home, clicking/rattling noise from the front passenger side dash, then a whirring noise followed shortly there after by a dull thud (hence the cat scenario). Happened twice on the way home (~15miles) ...
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Toyota Camry has developed this rattling noise that is always there when the engine is on. When the engine is at higher RPMs, it becomes more noticeable. Here is a quick video I took of the noise for the audio of it..
It was too dark for me to check tonight to see if there is low oil or anything (there are no lights lit up on the dash).
Wife is operating a 08 Escape with about 31K miles on her. She loves the vehicle but since we bought it with 24K miles on it it has had a rattle under it. I assumed that it was the heat shield and i would get around to securing it but haven't yet. Here's the question. I noticed recently that about mid way back under the pass side there is a black spot developing on the concrete where she parks every day. The vehicle does not sit and idle there. Its started and is moving in about 20 every time. I have not got under there yet but was looking for possible answers as to what and where to look? Flex pipe? Bad seal on exhaust? If this is the case should a 31K mile vehicle have this issue? The vehicle is louder than a 2.3L should be but from reading that seems normal. If it is the flex is this something that a novice wrench can do?
View 6 RepliesA sudden new noise heard from under the hood of my car!I have determined The noise is definitely coming from the AC compressor. I can hear it when I lift the hood. The noise stops when the AC is turned off and starts when the AC switch is activated. I'm not certain if it is a bearing or one of the pistons inside? Interesting is that there are moments that when the A/C is turned on, all is well, no noise and their is refrigerated air coming from the vents inside. But a mile or so down the road, the noise starts.
Also, once the noise starts, there is a tremendous load on the gas engine and the car has great difficulty getting to 35 mph. The engine is a V6. the car is a SE model. There are Few bells and whistles. There is 200,000+ miles on the car. I don't think it is a low freon issue, for is there not a built in safety that keeps the A/C clutch from engaging if freon ( or 134A in my case) is low? and when the unit does work, there is plenty of cold air. I don't think it is low oil in the compressor, as that would indicate a leak in the system , would it not?
Could I or am I , be looking at replacing the compressor?Which will mean having to suck down the system, correct? and anything else I have not thought of that will be involved?
I have a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0 4WD, it has a rattle in the motor and no acceleration... Bought the escape with the rattle when you start it up and put into drive it wont accelerate. Transmission is good...
View 3 RepliesI bought my youngest daughter a used 2009 Ford Escape (out of warranty) a week ago. Manual HVAC controls, 3.0 V6, AWD, 73K miles. The HVAC blower motor do not seem to move any air on speed 1 and 2. However speeds 3 and 4 appear to operate normally. Speed 4 noticeably puts out more volume of air then 3. Each 3 and 4 operator what seems to be normal speeds for their setting.
I would normally suspect resistor but my experience is usually that you have all or nothing not it's partially working like this is. I don't mind throwing a new resistor in there and trying it but I rather come up with a better way of troubleshooting it then throw parts at it.
Blower motor only seems to be working on the 3 & 4 position? Resistor bad? What is the location?
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Camry makes a bumping/rattling noise that seems to originate from the right-rear part of the vehicle. The noise sounds whenever I drive over even a small (mild) rough patch or over a dip. I have pulled the tire and checked suspension parts to ensure they are tight and that the muffler is well secured. The tire is fine. Nothing seems to be loose. What might be causing it?
View 4 RepliesI have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
View 2 RepliesI am pretty satisfied with the performance of my 2009 Ford Escape. Two years 51,000 miles after I find that the rear door does not open. Following threads of earlier Escape models I find how to remove the inside panel and open it manually. After a thorough study all I need is a replacement latch motor. The plastic latch cover has the following number GA6 GF30.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 hyundai accent, 62000 miles. When I accelerate there is a vibrating/rattling noise that sounds like it's in the back left side. It only happens sometimes. It happens when i accelerate slowly or up a hill, and if i press on the gas it stops. I thought it was the muffler, but I got the car inspected in May and it was fine. It's been doing it since before then. My dad said it might be a loose heat shield vibrating. It seems to be getting more frequent with humid weather. Should I be worried?
View 3 RepliesThe wifes 2011 Escape battery was dead. Charged it and also found that the rear wiper motor was not working. But it was very hot to the touch even with the car shut off. It was killing the battery. I wonder if the wiper needs to complete it's cycle to shut down. It won't work. Again it gets very hot even with the car shut down for the day I believe killing the battery. Also how can the wiper motor assembly be removed?
View 3 Replies