Ford - Escape :: 2005 - Alarm Goes Off Every Morning
Sep 17, 2016
Have a 2005 Ford Escape - my alarm goes off every morning at about 8 am. Been to a mechanic, but so far no fix.
View 9 RepliesHave a 2005 Ford Escape - my alarm goes off every morning at about 8 am. Been to a mechanic, but so far no fix.
View 9 RepliesThe factory installed passive anti theft alarm keeps going off without external cause. Went to dealership to have them do the scan and all alarms point to the right rear-door. They suggest replacing the latch. This same latch was replaced 13 months ago for same problem. They will not honor the now out of date 12 month replacement warranty. They said they have checked the wiring and all looks OK. Must be the latch. I only have 30,000 miles on the vehicle and this is a rarely used door, yet I have to replace the same latch again?? Can the door ajar module be replaced separately and would it be less expensive to do so?
View 14 RepliesMy 2005 Ford Escape's alarm goes off intermittently throughout the day and night. This usually occurs after the door ajar light comes on while I'm driving. All doors are secure and I've even replaced the latch assemblies on the driver's door and rear hatch (these are the most used doors). There must be something in this circuit that is causing this to happen. It is frustrating having the alarm go off in the middle of the night when there are no obvious intruders. How can I resolve this issue without replacing any more latches or spending a large amount on diagnostic tools from Ford?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2005 Escape with about 98,000 miles on it. For a while I have been having problems with the rear glass not registering that it is closed. It does close and latch tight, but the dash shows that there is still a door open. Now I am having issues with the PATS. The alarm goes off randomly when trying to start the car and when I stop the car and take my key out of the ignition. I am thinking these two issues are related. Is there a sensor on the rear window hatch that may be malfunctioning? And would this cause the stock alarm system to sound?
Edit: I have read another site that suggested spraying WD-40 into the latch then open and close it a few times...Does this sound legitimate?
My 2010 Ford Escape Shifts hard, but only first thing in the morning. After it warms up I doesn't seem to do it. It has 66,000 miles on it and and when this started I took it to a transmission shop and they flushed out the transmission fluid. There were no warning in the computer for the transmission. I'm thinking it may not be the transmission, but an acceleration problem. Could this be true?
View 5 RepliesI recently (August 2014) purchased a 2010 Ford Escape, with only 16,500 miles. I was told the previous owner had only had the car for 6 months, she had purchased it from their dealership but wanted to trade it in on another (Chevy) car because the alarm kept going off for no reason. (She was a nurse and while at work, at the hospital, the alarm would just go off and disturb everyone - and especially her! -- So the dealer said they had taken it to a Ford dealer and they couldn't make it go off, so they thought it might be the keys. So my salesman said they had new keys made for the vehicle and it hadn't had the trouble anymore. We bought the SUV. The first night home, the horn starts blowing at 3 in the morning - while the car is sitting in our garage!! and it has gone off several times while I've been at work. I've had it to my local Ford dealer and they thought it might be a back door latch, but can't tell which one.What should I do? Have all the door latches changed? Or could it be something else???
View 7 RepliesMy car alarm goes off, or at least it tries to, when I open the car in the morning. Then every time I try and start the car, it seems to delay starting. IE. I put key in and it struggles to turn on, and lights dim.
View 6 RepliesSo I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
I wanted to try FordJunkyNC's way to run a jumper to stop the alarm from going off, but my problem is the passenger front, not the rear... different color coding on the wires..
Jumped the passenger front door? If so, which wires did you jump? Want to jump the 06 Escape doors, just don't want to short anything out...
I have a toyota prius 2005. i bought two days ago, and i drove it and it was ok.. battery was checked and engine and they were all OK when i bought it.. next morning, i tried to get it work but there was no power at all.. remote control just didn't respond and the car didn't start. It looked completely dead. then suddenly it just started working. tonight, same problem occurred. I put the key in for around a min and then it worked. Is there something going on at night for that car?! does it go into a sleep mode or something?! and how can u make it work again?
View 4 RepliesAny way to disable the annoying seat belt alarm. I do wear my seat belt but I can't even get out of my driveway before it goes off, also if I drive one block to the store and don't feel like putting it on. I have tried the disabling procedure in the owners manual many times and it does not work. I have also tried other procedures posted on the internet and they didn't work either. If the alarm wasn't for other things like keys left in ignition, etc I would have cut the wires by now.
View 14 RepliesJust bought 2005 F350 XLT. Took it home last night and the alarm started going off at 2:30am for no reason. Stumbled looking for keys and it shut off by itself before I could(it sounded like it rearmed as well). At about 5:00am it went off again. We live in a rural area with not much around.
My understanding is that the XLT would be a Ford 'accessory' item. It does not seem to be too sensitive as I jumped on the back bumper to see if it would set it off but it did not.
The only thing I can think of is that last night, I had flicked all four of the Auxilary switched on the dash and forgot to switch them off. I popped the hood and none of those wires appear to be connected to anything.
I can't see why those switches would have anything to do with it but I am grasping at straws here.
I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2005 F-150. Recently, I have heard an alarm like tone for five seconds or so after cranking up. Often, this sounds immediately after cranking up but sometimes, it happens a few minutes after cranking up. There is no light that accompanies it on the instrument panel and the sound stops after sounding for a few seconds and does not recur until the engine is started another time. What this might be?
View 3 RepliesI came home from a week's vacation and towed my 16' toyhauler to and from the Sequoia Nat'l Park ... no issues during the entire trip. Guestimating about 5 hours after being home, everything was unpacked and the truck/trailer locked but still hitched ... suddenly the alarm went off ... all by itself! Using the ignition key, I was able to start/stop the 6.0l diesel motor, but the alarm kept going.
I pressed the lock/unlock buttons but still the alarm was going off! I repeated this a few times and concluded that only recourse was to disconnect the batteries. That stopped the alarm. While doing the disconnecting, I detected a faint electrical hot, maybe a burn kind of smell but no smoke of any kind.
I'm worrisome about reconnecting the batteries to see if the truck is back to normal ... I will probably just have it towed to a mechanic ... in any event it's going to go somewhere to be looked at this coming Monday.
I've got a tin-ey metal rattling sound that only periodicly comes from the engine block itself. it sound like someone is shaking a coffee can with a penny in it. It almost sounds like something is vibrating. (05 ford escape 6cyl over 100K)I've watched videos of people on youtube that have a knock, and it doesn't sound like that.
View 3 Replies2005 Escape CD4E gone...157,000 miles. Previous owner said it was slipping when shifting to 3rd. During test drive the vehicle would hardly move. Only code was for the output shaft. There were metal shavings on the sensor magnet as well as the magnetic drain plug. The drivetrain is now out of the vehicle.
Questions:
1. After a bit of research it seems like there are a lot of tweaks that should be done during a rebuild to make this tranny live longer. Is there any point to having a local trans shop try to rebuild it?
2. Given the reputation of this trans I assume it makes no sense to look at used ones, correct?
3. Any other options?
I have a 2005 Escape Hybrid. Last summer, the A/C went out, so when in the fall I finally got around to having the cooling system flushed. Did the trick, and A/C works fine. Now that winter's come along, I've noticed an issue with the heat. All fan speeds work correctly, and the dash controls for heat and cold work properly. But what's odd is that I get plenty of heat when the vehicle is at speed, above about 30 mph. As soon as I slow down below that, or hit a red light, there's no heat. The blower just blows cold air until I am back up at speed again.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2005 3.0 front wheel drive Escape that the kids normally drive and recently had a crank over/ no start condition in my driveway. I replaced the fuel pump about three months ago. Turned the key and couldn't hear the fuel pump so I proceeded to check the fuses and relays and everything seemed good. I also checked the inertia switch and it seemed ok as well.
I then checked for power at the harness right above the fuel tank and I had 12 volts on two of the four wires so I assume that I have power to my pump. I then took out the pump and had it replaced it under warranty. So I proceeded to install the new pump and I thought that I would hook the harness back up and just turn on the key for a second to be sure that the new pump is working and there was nothing to be heard. Looking for a wiring diagram/colors of the fuel pump?
2005 Ford Escape XLT (4WD) (non-Hybrid). Our Escape had uneven wear on the front tires. Because the mechanic we've used over the year we've lived here doesn't do alignments, my wife took it to a chain tire place on a Sunday afternoon because they were open. He said the ball joint was bad, so he wouldn't do an alignment and because they were super-busy and short-handed, he asked if we could bring it back during the week for an estimate.
A couple of weeks later I called my guy, who recommended a shop a few blocks over who does alignments, so we took it to him. We told him that the chain store had said about the ball joint. I'm pretty sure that before we took it to him, the car had started occasionally started jerking a bit in a curve, but it's been a couple of months and I only know for certain it was doing it after. (I'm not certain if it was doing it before because my wife was mostly driving that vehicle, then)
The first time it was in his shop, the mechanic said it wasn't the ball joint, but the tie-rod. After fixing that, he sold us a couple of tires and aligned the vehicle. On the way home is when I know I was aware of the car jerking a bit in curves. I'm pretty sure it was jerking in the direction of the curve, but again, it's been a couple of months.
Took it back to him the next day and though we suggested he test drive in one direction which had multiple curves, he said he retightened the tie-rod because one side wasn't right, ran it through alignment again and test drove it in another direction which only had one s-curve.
I want to say it was better for a while, but I can't really swear that to be the case. We've long had an ABS light which our previous mechanic in another part of the country said was the sensor. I had forgotten, but the first mechanic we used here had broken the axle and replaced it at no charge, when he was replacing the alternator.
The alignment mechanic said that we had a bad tone ring and the easiest thing to do would be to replace the axle. A week or so later, I called him and said we were ready to do the brakes, but I have one car and he does many and I wasn't really clear, instead of doing anything with the axle or the tone ring, his shop replaced the brakes.
Somewhere around this time, the vehicle started occasionally jerking to the left. Not in a curve, but in the straightways and the best we can tell, it's mostly when we're accelerating and is most noticeable between 30 & 45 MPH. This may not be entirely true, but it's true enough that we believe it. The "jerk" sort of feels like a car driving through fresh snow "falling" into a rut. It also sort of feels what I imagine a faulty ball joint might feel like.
While it was still more of a minor issue -- it happened more rarely than it's happening now -- we took it to what I'd consider our regular mechanic and got him to replace the axle. I didn't actually say anything to him about the jerking because it was still too occasional and I was hoping it was related to the tone ring. It's now gotten progressively worse and I'm at a loss for diagnosis. You'd think that if it was the ball joint, between the two alignments, the brake job, tire replacement and rotation and getting a new axle, one of the mechanics would have noticed it.
Compounding the issue is the fact that there's two (or three if you count the first guy, four if you count the chain tire place) garages involved. Also, I've done some of the engine work my regular mechanic recommended, so there could be a thing about me getting them to diagnose and then doing the work myself or the one mechanic replacing the axle like the alignment guy had suggested. Who knows. We haven't lived here long, so there's not really a lot of history. All I know is that they all get good Yelp reviews.
Also should probably be factored... the alignment mechanic said he felt vibration around 45 MPH and because didn't think we use the 4WD, he said he disconnected the drive shaft from the CV joint (or something like that) as a means of diagnosis. (If there had been a vibration, we hadn't paid attention to it and he did this at no charge, all on his own) Also, a few years ago, prior to our move, the transmission was rebuilt twice (once under the transmission shop's warranty) and I don't remember what the vehicle was doing, but on a third trip the transmission shop had to do something with the transfer case.
Mostly around 40 MPH -- though it may just be too subtle to notice at higher speeds and we rarely drive this vehicle on the highway, so we're mostly traveling short distances at 35 & 45 MPH -- the SUV lurches a bit toward the left and there's a little jerk in the steering wheel. It really feels like I described, like it's getting caught in a rut. Both the car and the steering wheel jerks to the left side. There hasn't been any noticeable uneven wear over the three months we've been trying to figure this out and the front tires look straight up and down. We also haven't noticed any noise. Not going down the road, not when we turn or when the steering wheel jerks.
2005 Mazda Trib. will not let me shift out of park . It doesn't happen all the time button seems to be sticking . Is it the button or the electrical switch on the brake pedal ? This belongs to a friend of mine and this is the info I'm getting .
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