Ford - Escape :: 2004 - Key Stuck In Ignition And Won't Come Out
Jun 24, 2016
The key is stuck. It doesn't turn all the way back to the off position and the steering wheel will not lock. The shifter will still move when I turn the key and press the brakes. The car drives fine. Just can't take the key out of the ignition. This escape has the shifter on the steering column.
Solved: There is a tiny switch (like the one in the pic) that tells the car when the shifter is in the park position. It snaps into position in a little plastic slot. It had popped out of its slot and could not be actuated. It has 3 wires attached to it. I snapped it back into its slot and it works fine now.
Including a pic of it in its proper position. Hard to see it but that's how it looks when it is correct. Pic was taken with my phone stuck down behind it because I could not see it. So this view is as if you were inside the steering column looking back toward the driver seat.
It is located in the steering column near the top. The top cover on the steering column pops off and you can see it without taking the steering column loose, and with some skill and luck it can be snapped back into its slot. Also before inserting the switch, move the shifter down to another position so the little arm will not be in the way.
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I have a 2004 ford Escape and the radio won't turn off when the cars ignition is turned off. I have checked the interior lights and the windows and they turn off, so I'm assuming that the relay isn't the problem. I have asked a ford mechanic what he might think it would be and he said it could be the radio, but I don't think it is.
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Wife come home the other day after leaving for work with the truck no going past 20KM to 30KM.. After some investigating it seems to be in Limp - In Mode. There was a Check-Engine light & after further investigation found a Vac hose with a leak, repaired this & test drove. Same issue.... then there was a loud hissing sound from the engine area so I investigate & now found the EGR sensor (DPEF pressure sensor ) had blow a hose & fried the sensor.
New sensor was replace along with 2-hoses cleared the engine light but the truck still will not go more then 20KM or 30KM max.. I checked the EGR valve with vac pump & engine stalls or so the valve is good. I have left the neg cable off the batt to try & clear the Limp-In mode without success. Looking for a way to clear the limp-in mode or do I need to clear it with a scan tool?
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The truck seems to continue to crank sometimes even after I let the key go. Kinda like it's having a difficult time starting and NEEDS to be cranked a wee bit more and takes over for me. Is this an ignition issue that I can (need) to address or is it normal. I have ZERO experience with a newer vehicle nor a Ford truck.
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My young lad just picked up a 2004 F150 4x4. While fixing it up we have encountered a weird problem. The key goes in , starts and runs the truck but cannot be removed, unless you unhook the battery.
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When I went to pull my key out of the ignition yesterday the key got a bit stuck and when I jiggled it a little to pull it out the chrome bezel that locks the tumbler in fell out. Now the tumbler is out as well and I cant figure out how to get the tumbler in and lock the bezel in place.
I see a pin on the bottom of the ignition cylinder that I should be able to push in and pull the cylinder out but I cant seem to push the pin in at all.
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Car works perfectly otherwise. Good battery, a yellow top less than a year old. Made sure lights weren't on, took in and out of park, tried starting and restarting moving in and out of park. Turned steering wheel -- nothing seems to make a difference. What we can do to diagnose?
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Have a 2007 GX 470 with 70,000 Miles. Recently we have had problems with the ignition getting stuck. Key will go in, but, will not turn. Happens randomly and unpredictably. Will start after a period of time. Sometimes 30 minutes, sometimes several hours. My not happen for a few weeks or sometimes 2 or 3 times a week. Neither Lexus or Toyota claims to have heard of this problem.
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My key got stuck in the ignition and I was unable to start it. The owners' manual shows a small hole to the left of the key slot which is poked with a paper clip to release the key. At some point the ignition in my tdi was replaced and no small hole is present. A knowledgeable tow truck operator/mechanic coaxed the key from the ignition and the tdi started when the key was returned to the ignition and turned. What is the proper way to remove a stuck key from an ignition without the little hole. I was reluctant to force it out. The ignition currently in my '04 tdi has a raised bar to the left of the key slot which I was unable to depress.
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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I have a Lexus RX 330 2006. Two days ago my key couldn't start the car he stuck inside the ignition. I ordered a locksmith guy and he open the auto meter so he can get to the ignition. Now the ignition working but when I try to start the car the car doesn't start. The security system turn on and off , it's seem like the car doesn't recognize the key, the guy also make a new key and program the car but still the car is not charging, I also order mechanics to see if somethings wrong with the car and he didn't see any problem . I think the car shut down and I need professional guy who know how to program the car...
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My wife's 08 Escape has an issue with the ignition key actually sticking in spots when turning to the start position, then we almost have to turn it back to the run position, it doesn't spring back like it used to, and should do. It's an 08 Escape, XLT V6 AWD, auto transmission.
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The car has 130K on the clock, and I don't know if she's had the plugs replaced, but the car has been stalling on her suddenly once it warms up, like the ignition switch is switched off. Then, once it cools down for a night, it runs again. If it only cools down for an hour or two, it will run but only for a few miles before quitting again. I'm thinking a sensor, pcm, or coils, but I'm hoping there's some way to narrow this down a little bit.
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We just bought a 2013 ford escape and every morning when we turn on the ignition we hear a quick pop noise under the drivers side near the back (I think). Sometimes it happens if the car is sitting in a parking lot for a long time and then you start it. The same quick brief pop noise. Sounds like a popcorn pop. It happens when the car is cold. I cannot figure out if its something because the vehicle is running fine and its hard to prove to dealership. They said nothing to worry about because they could not hear it.
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I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
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I had squirrels eat wires to the front 3 Ignition coil connector on my a 2005 ford escape XLT,my question is the new connectors have a white and black wire and the old ones had a red and a colored wire, but comparing both old and new connectors I notice the new connector has the black wire where the old connector has a red, so do I use the black wire to replace the old Red? , it's rather confusing to me when you plug in the new connector you can see the black wire is where the red wire was on the old one, or does it matter which wire goes where?
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My transmission is manual, front wheel drive, 4 cylinder motor, plunger has come disconnected from shifting forks, car is stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. Would it be easier to change transmission or is replacing the plunger mechanism a viable option?
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If I don't replace it, will it cause any trouble?
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My 2008 Ford Escape is stuck at 5% Oil Life I have tried the reset procedure But when I press the 3 buttons Setup Info or Reset nothing changes It will not change screens When I start my car I see the KM (I'm from Canada) then within a couple of minutes it shows %5 Oil Life and no matter what I do it wont change or scroll to a different screen. When the door is ajar or tail gate open it shows but then will flash back to the 5% Oil Life
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Pulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery and engine and aux power were off. Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. I tried putting key in ignition and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in, connected battery then truck started. Last stop took key out and disc battery engine stayed on. Several prayers and repeated steps above made home.
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