I have a 2004 Ford Escape XLT, auto,V-6, with 129000 miles on it. It runs fine except for a couple of things. One is, at highway speeds the transmission will seem to shift up and down. Also sometimes at highway speeds I get what I describe as a "bump" or "shudder" I think it is coming from the transmission.
View 4 RepliesMy wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
View 4 Replies2005 Escape CD4E gone...157,000 miles. Previous owner said it was slipping when shifting to 3rd. During test drive the vehicle would hardly move. Only code was for the output shaft. There were metal shavings on the sensor magnet as well as the magnetic drain plug. The drivetrain is now out of the vehicle.
Questions:
1. After a bit of research it seems like there are a lot of tweaks that should be done during a rebuild to make this tranny live longer. Is there any point to having a local trans shop try to rebuild it?
2. Given the reputation of this trans I assume it makes no sense to look at used ones, correct?
3. Any other options?
I have a 2014 screw 4x4 v8 that has been in the shop 5 times now for something that the dealership can't duplicate, and that is intermittent enough for me that I can't determine what the conditions need to be in order to duplicate it myself.
My transmission will shift hard under two different situations:
1) when rolling through a stop, or a momentary stop at a stop sign, the transmission holds up between 3 and 1, and when I bring the rpms up, the transmission shifts down into 1, making a hard clunk;
2) at highway speeds, more so when using cruise, if I accelerate and the truck shifts down from 6 to 4, there will be a hard shift as well. In fact, when I'm on a long stretch of flat, open road using cruise at 70-75, I can feel a slight bump through the steering wheel and floorboard, as if the cruise is trying to engage the throttle a bit more, but only for a split second. But that will happen quite a few times within a couple miles until I come up on a grade and the throttle has to engage for a bit longer to keep speed. Sometimes, the hard shift will do occur going to 5 as well, but 90% of the time it will be a 6-4 shift. If the truck decides to shift from 6-3, there's no issue and it shifts and accelerates like it should.
Again, this is so intermittent, but when it happens, it happens several times. I've had the service tech ride in the truck with me, all the while not being able to duplicate the issue. I understand that these are learning transmissions, so the only thing I can think of is when I try to duplicate it by accelerating over and over, that the transmission adjusts the shift pattern or fluid pressure to compensate.
I've been noticing that my 2012 Passat TDI with 125,000 miles, hasn't been shifting to 6th gear when driving down the highway. I've actually noticed it's one gear too low even when driving down city streets. We have been experiencing extreme cold weather in Pennsylvania, so perhaps that's a factor.
If I manually shift to 6th gear, it stays in gear, but it appears that the engine RPMs are a bit lower than usual as well, but I could be wrong there.
06' 5.4 screw 100K... At 55mph my truck just stopped running, I pulled over to the side of the road and after two trys the truck restarted but ran rough. Auto Zone pulled a code that said replace the throttle position sensor, I did and the same thing happened again two weeks later just as before.
View 3 RepliesMy S10 started downshifting at highway speeds when I slightly let up on the throttle. It only starts after driving 20 or 30 miles down the road. (gets hot?) It also hesitates slightly starting from a dead stop as well after that. I dropped the pan, cleaned it up and added new fluid. There was a fine powdery sludge on the magnet in the pan, but no metal shavings. It is still doing the same thing.
It has 95,500 miles on it. 2.2 motor. The fluid was low a couple weeks ago. I added a bottle of conditioner. Don't remember the brand name. 2 reservoirs in the bottle so it mixes as you pour it in. It started acting up 7 days ago.
My 2000 Hyundai Accent, and it has started shifting gears when not traveling at the right speeds to do so.
I'll try to describe it the best I can, When driving I will be going whatever speed limit and all of the sudden it will make a winding noise (like when jumping on highway and pressing hard on gas peddle) and the RPMs will stall. It is like when shifting up, the car drives as normal but then it will shift down and pulls back (making a winding sound)
I am not sure what to do, I was told it seems like it may be the transmission is shot(I had the fluid flushed previously) and that it could cost over $1000 to get it replaced.
Is this behavior normal: I test drove a 2010 corolla LE with 4-spd auto, 41K miles. Noticed that on level highway 60 mph that whenever I eased up on the gas that the RPMs would shoot down. Vehicle speed was barely decelerating since I was on level. As soon as gas reapplied (gently), then the RPMs would shoot up. I'm guessing the delta was like 300 RPM. I get the impression that at highway speeds the car is mostly in 3rd gear or shifting up and down a lot. I've read a lot about a TSB for 2011 corollas but nothing for 2010. And I think that problem is different. So my question is whether this is "normal" for driving at highway speeds?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 F150 King Ranch Super Crew 5.4 3v and it makes a ticking sound. I have read about the VCT solenoids and the phasers. My issue is that the ticking noise can be heard at Highway speeds. At it seems to be quicker as the engine speed increase. Not sure what to think. No rough idle. What could this be.
View 3 RepliesFirst, details about my truck. 2007 F150 SuperCrew, 2wd, 5.4, 203,xxx miles on it, leveled with Hell Bent Steel 2.5" kit last year, has been aligned professionally since then, tires are good and balanced.
The issue I have is a vibration, kind of the same feeling when driving on a road surface that has had the top level of asphalt removed before it's resurfaced. It's mostly noticable at highway speeds. Its not a violent type vibration, but you can feel it. There is also a sound, similar to tires with a deep off road type tread.
The sound and vibration more noticeable when making lane changes or when wheel turned towards left, at highway speeds, not as much to the right. I've checked front wheel bearings, they are good, zero play, no loose suspension parts, u-joints are good, no leaks anywhere.
Since it makes the noise and vibration a bit more when moving wheel, could it be a power steering pump? The pump is the original.
I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
View 8 Replies5.4L... My truck has a momentary moan / growl / bog down issue. It happens at town and highway speeds and usually when I have cruise on OR when I lightly apply the gas peddle. It moans for a few seconds and seems to bog down then comes out of it and carry's on its way. You can hear it plainly while driving even with radio on. I have a regular muffler on the truck but when this happens, it makes it sound like I have a catback on it.
Things i have done...
- New air filter
- New oil/filter
- New fuel filter
- Ran techron injector cleaner through tank of gas
I have an '05 F150 5.4L with 110k miles on it. Bought it used about 2-3 years ago and have had on-going ignition system problems. The current problem is a significant shudder/shake/vibration that occurs when driving 50mph+ (easy to reproduce around 65-70) on the freeway, when starting up a minor, but noticeable incline. This is an incline that doesn't require much additional throttle, and this trouble occurs with cruise control on and off. the truck starts shuddering pretty rough during the incline. However, if I release the accelerator (and go up incline with slightly lower speed) or give lots of gas on accelerator the shudder usually stops. The shudder always clears after the incline when returning to flat road and just cruising.
This occurred on a recent trip a few times and I pulled the following codes (in order):
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring): misfire on cylinder 2
I have since purchased and replaced the coil on #2. This did not resolve the problem. I have replaced coil on #6 in the last year...
Because I saw a suggestion somewhere on the net around this problem while searching, that this could be related to OD, I tried disabling OD and enabled OD on an incline today to test after replacing COP on #2 and it seemed to resolve the issue to turn OD off. Not sure if related...?
Other observation: Cab of truck often smells of gas just after starting the truck. Mentioned this to the shop, but they didn't find anything obvious.
Short history of codes and work that has been done:
Sometime in early 2011: Ford service dept did this work.
First failure was coil bad on #7. Tech swapped 7 & 8 to verify the problem followed the coil. Then when the problem DID follow the coil, he replaced #8 with new.
05/2011 MacKenzie Ford changed all plugs
12/2011 - swapped out COP on #7.
02/2012 - P0306 - Now, COP #6 is reported as bad.
November/December 2012
P2104 P Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) - Forced Idle
P2112 P TAC Stuck Close
P2111 TAC Stuck Open
I did throttle body clean - removed it and used TB cleaner. replaced...
Late December 2012 - while driving on freeway at speeds 50+, but easily reproduced around 60 after starting up a slight incline. symptom is heavy shudder/shake. Possibly resolved by turning OD off.
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring) : Misfire on cylinder 2
2006' screw, 5.4L, 116K miles ... The truck looses power at highway speeds to the point that I need to pull off of the road. When this happens the check engine light is on and the truck is still running but will not accelerate, is it possible the computer is going into limp mode and if so what would cause this?
View 1 RepliesSo my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
View 9 Replies2004 Honda Accord sedan, 4 cylinder, approx, 95,000 miles, uses oil rapidly at highway speeds (one quart in 90 minutes), in town driving will not use any oil over 3 to 4 months of monitoring. What the problem is and how to fix it?
View 4 RepliesPurchased one owner Prius from Honda dealer May 2014 with 92000 miles.Now 2 months later 94000. Both service departments of Honda and a Toyota dealer said my car handles normally for a Prius.The car dips from left to right while driving at slow and highway speeds. It feels like a boat moving through water. The suspension was said to be good.Driving it feels unstable, like a Montero Sport or a stage coach. I wanted to do a lot of driving this summer, but this feels so uncomfortable.
View 5 RepliesJust rotated my tires this weekend and noticed today that the steering wheel has a vibration in it at highway speeds, 65-70mph. It did not do this at all before I rotated the tires, why it's doing it now? Tires are fairly new and Bridgestones H/Ts.
I know my rotors are warped and need replaced but the vibration I'm referring to is when I am not braking.
This has been happening for the past 6 months or so. I recently had new ball joints, 4 wheel alignment, and 4 wheel balance. Even with this I'm noticing a very slight high frequency vibration at highway speeds. I noticed on one of the front wheels that a weight fell off, so this might explain the high speed vibration.
However - When I'm starting at 0mph, and accelerate to say 50mph for example, the car vibrates rather substantially as the speedometer moves from around 25mph to just past 30mph. After those speeds it goes away.
I've also noticed that it tends to be worse if I'm going up hill, which, according to the laws of physics, would tell me that going uphill would put more pressure on the front end, given it's heavier with the engine there. If I'm going downhill it vibrates much less.
When I drive I tend to not accelerate quickly, meaning, I don't 'punch' it, and accelerate gradually instead. If I'm driving on a level, well-paved road, and accelerate quicker than regular, the vibration seems to not be as heavy.
Any other tests for this? Struts, control arm, steering knuckle, drive shaft ?
I drive a 2004 chevy Tahoe and have had this problem for about 8 months. It started out very faint and occasional, but has now escalated to loud and consistent. So it ONLY happens when turning right. I've tried to replicate it when turning left and had no success. It happens when I am turning fairly hard at a decent speed. ex. Pulling into my driveway. I've already checked the wheel bearings and Ball joints.
Another thing is that the ABS light is on sometimes when i start the car and comes on every time i turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. It also has a problem where it will shake almost uncontrollably when driving at 65+MPH after hitting a bump or sometimes just randomly on a smooth surface. We just got new tires and balanced them. It did the same with the previous set we had. I know I'm asking for a lot, but where to start?