Ford - Escape :: 2001 - Oil Leak / Burning Odor After Driving


Feb 5, 2012

In December, I took my 2001 Ford Escape (123,000 miles) to my mechanic to find the source of a burning odor that I'd been smelling after driving. My engine light had also gone on several times and the engine ran rough, especially after very wet weather. They attributed the engine light to a cylinder 4 misfire, and the smell to oil leaking from my valve cover gasket. They strongly recommended, due to the proximity of my coils and spark plugs to the valve cover gasket, that I have my (still original) spark plugs and coils replaced in all 6 cylinders.

Considering that one coil had already been causing problems, they said that it would save labor to do them while they were so close in proximity. Considering the age and mileage of my car, the fact that I'd like to keep it for a couple of years, and the fact that this is a trusted mechanic, I took their advice. I had all of these repairs done to the tune of 1800.

Following this repair, I still smelled the burning odor. I gave it a couple of weeks, thinking this may be recently-leaked oil burning off, and then brought it back to my mechanic. They could not easily identify the location of the leak, so they injected dye, and I returned a few days later.

Now I'm being told that the oil leak is from my timing cover gasket. In addition to that, they say that the oil pan gasket will need replacement, because of its proximity to the timing case. My valve cover will also have to be removed and possibly replaced, but they said that they can possibly reuse it since it was just replaced in December. There was some discussion of replacing the timing chain while they were in the case. As an aside, I have had no indication that my timing chain has any issues.

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 V6 - Mystery Oil Leak That Causes Smoke

Vehicle: 2001 Escape 3.0L V6

I'm listing here the obvious that has been changed already:

1) Valve cover gaskets
2) Oil pan gasket
3) Timing chain cover gasket
4) Upper and lower manifold gaskets (not oil related but changed)
5) PCV valve
6) Washed engine twice to remove everything and make sure nothing else burning

Problem: I still have a small leak from the top that causes smoke near or around the #4 COP on passenger (left side of the motor). But we do see some oil coming from near the PCV valve. It makes no sense and after reading what caused smoke on that side of the vehicle I changed the Timing chain cover gasket (which were finished anyway) and while was at it the oil pan but to no avail. Smoke and leak still there.

Probably not: I know that it is not the head gasket because there is no sign at all; I've never lost a drop of coolant and there is no smoke from the exhaust in back.

Suspicion: Could it be the oil separator where the PCV valve connects and makes it's way around to the other side? Is there something I am overlooking? There can't be many other places for an oil leak like that.

Coincidence ? : Even after changing all the COPS and spark plugs I found oil in the #4. However smoke was there before. I thought maybe a cylinder gasket I got second opinion from my mechanic says no not cylinder...

Engine runs well except for misfire in #4 but comes and goes. I think when oil builds up.

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Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Transfer Case Leak And Burning Oil Smell

Well, I have the dreaded transfer case leak on my 112000 mile 03 2.7 santa fe. I have just returned from a 12,000 mile trip through Canada, Alaska and then back to Colorado. During that trip I was smelling a burning oil smell and after I came back I traced it to the transfer case. I think it is leaking both from where it mates to the drive train and a one inch seam along the transfer case plate.

It has leaked there for some time(and I had been diligent about filling it up), but this extended trip it has has been more bothersome. I called the local Hyundai shop and they want $1100 and won't guarantee a fix. Is there some product I could use on that one inch seam externally to stop the leak (I know that wouldn't seal the circular seam around the drive shaft)? I kept very accurate gas records and averaged 25.6 MPG for the whole 12k trip running from 55 to 65 MPH.

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Golf/GTI VI :: Radiator Leaking Coolant - Faint Burning Odor

I bought a 2011 GTI this past March, it has about 5700 miles on it. Last week I posted about my radiator leaking coolant and what I went through to get it fixed. I got the car back last saturday and everything was fine, up until tonight. I was pulling onto the highway (no one coming, luckily), and as I went to shift into 2nd, I heard a loud bang, almost like my car backfired, and then the CEL came on and my car went into limp mode. I immediately pulled over, but it was dark and I couldn't really see much (not sure what I was looking for anyways). I was about 3 miles from my house so I drove home cautiously, but as I was driving home, I smelled a faint burning odor.

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 - Died While Driving Now Crank But Will Not Turn Over

About a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.

So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.

2001 Escape 6 cyl...

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Subaru - Outback :: 2005 - Burning Odor Smells Like Air Out Of A Latex Balloon

For the last month or so my car (2005 Subaru Outback LL Bean) has been producing a burning odor. It smells like air out of a latex balloon that has been burnt. I took the car to my mechanic but was unable to reproduce the smell. He asked if the car only produced the smell going uphill as it could be my coolant leaking. Since then I have noticed that the car does in fact produce the smell primarily, if not exclusively going uphill. But coolant should smell sweet not burnt?

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 V6 Stalling When Driving - Hard To Start When Stops To Get Gas

I'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it

She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)

She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.

She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.

My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?

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Mitsubishi - Diamante :: Died When Drove Through A Puddle - Slight Electric Burning Odor

I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante LS. I know I know, but I am a poor student (emphasizing poor), and this car is paid off. Anyway, A couple months ago I drove through a puddle, water splashed up into the engine area and my car died. I was able to start it an hour later (after it dried out, I guess) Since then, there have been a couple times that it wouldn't start right away, it took a good 20 minutes for the car to start after the initial try, both of these times have been after a heavy rain. And now, occasionally, I smell a slight electric burning odor. I replaced the battery after the "driving through the puddle" incident. I just hit 80,000 miles. Obviously there is one or more issues I need to deal with.

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1995 - Fuel Line Leak / Strong Gas Odor

I let my sister borrow my 1995 4 banger Ford Ranger for about a week. To make a long story short, when I drove it home I could smell a really strong gas odor so I pulled into a gas station and noticed gas pouring out of from what looked like the fuel filter area right under the driver's side.

Anyway, it took another 5 gallons to get home and I later crawled under and took a look. It looks like someone grabbed the fuel line and tried to unsuccessfully pull it out of the fuel filter by hand. I could literally see the imprint of the person's hand where they grabbed the line. They had pulled the line so hard that it crimped and split which is why gas was leaking like a water hose.

I picked up a Ranger specific Dorman fuel-line repair kit from Advance and had my brother install it for me as I'm no mechanic. It was fine for a few days and then I started to smell gas again so I crawled under and took a look. There's just barely a small leak coming from the connector barb/union on the kit. Anyway, I didn't know what else to do so I dropped the Ranger off at a local shop this evening. With that said, this is fixable, right?

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Ford Escape :: 2004 - Burning Smell When Idling At A Stop Light

So every once in a while, probably a dozen times, over the winter I am idling at a stop light and smell a bad burning smell. It doesn't matter if I have my heat on, or if I switch the temp all the way to cold. It smells like burning rubber or plastic. So far there doesn't seem to be a common factor involved. Doesn't matter the temp outside or how long I have been driving the car. Haven't noticed a loss in fluids, no puddles under my car. And it's not a sweet antifreeze smell.

2004 Ford Escape

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Passat (B5) :: 2002 GLX V6 - Gas Leak And Strong Odor

Car: 02 Passat GLX V6 4motion
Mileage: 99k

Just recently bought this car (3 months ago) and I have had lots of issue with it already. I topped off the tank that same week and it started to leak gas right under the gas tank (driver side in front of the rear wheel).

No engine light came on. It leaked for couple of days for about an hour after I park the car then it would stop until I drive again. It did that for couple of days until the gas level went down to 2/3 then it stopped. Since then I stopped topping it off and it hasn't leaked.

However I always smell gas even when its not leaking. When I go around the car the odor comes from right in front of the rear wheel (driver side).

Prior History: This car was rear ended before and fixed up by the prior owner. The seller told me that he had recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator that week.

I took it to the mechanic and had them do a smoke test. They couldn't pin point the leak so they recommended replacing the entire fuel tank for $1800. I walked away and thought I would just keep the fuel level low and keep driving. However the gas smell really bothers me because the car is parked in the garage and the gas odor builds up to unbearable condition.

What could cause this issue? Does this has anything to do with fuel pressure regulator that was replaced? Anything to do with fuel pump because of the rear end accident or loose seal in that area? Do you think it is necessary to replace the whole tank for this?

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Ford - Windstar :: 1999 - Gas Odor When Stop After Driving Approximately 30 Miles Or More

After driving my Windstar approximately 30 miles or more when I stop and get out I can smell gas. I see no leaks or any gas build up any where. Is there something that maybe is causing too much fuel to be going to the injectors??? which probably would also be tied in with some of the smog equipment.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Strong Coolant Odor After Driving But No Steam Or Visible Leaks

OK so I have a 2010 6.4 fully deleted. I have noticed that after driving my truck and parking it there is a strong coolant odor but no steam or visible leaks. the truck runs as good as ever and I can't seem to find the source.

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Ford - Escape :: Exhaust Leak Intermittently

Is there any condition that would make a Ford Escape have an intermittent exhaust leak that could come into the cab?

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Camry 2012+ :: Musky Moldy Odor From AC When Driving

Whenever I start my car in the morning or when leaving from work, my A/C has a strong musty, moldy odor. It slowly dissipates as I drive (and switch to non recirculate). I haven't had the car but 4 months, but the odor is getting worse and worse.... I live in South Florida where the humidity is high, but never expected this!

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Suspension - Nissan - Sentra :: Oil Odor After Few Minutes Of Driving?

Last fall I had several oil leaks on my car repaired as well as replacing the fuel pump and alternator. I also had some welding done on the tailpipe. Once the weather turned colder and I started using the heater, I noticed what I think is a oil-type odor inside the car after a few minutes or more of driving. I roll the windows down to clear out the odor and after that there is no more odor, until one of the next times I drive my car again.

It doesn't smell like exhaust fumes. I have had the exhaust system checked out by a garage who specializes in exhaust systems and they couldn't find any problems with the exhaust system. This problem doesn't happen every time I drive, but almost every time. What might be going on? I haven't noticed any oil drippings on the floor of my garage.

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Ford - Escape :: Fluid Leak Under The Oil Pan On Driver Side

Tonight when I was on my way in from taking the trash out, I happened to notice a puddle under my 04 Ford Escape. The car has been sitting in its parking spot for about a week (cold and mostly sunny weather, but some light rain, frost, and ice recently) so I figured it was just a bit of moisture from melting frost...worry wort that I am, though, I decided to investigate. It looked like it was in the area of my oil pan so I thought the size of the puddle warranted an investigation. I moved the car back a bit and tried to soak up whatever it was with a paper towel (soaked moisture up, but colorless).

I checked the oil levels (puddle was the size of a it small frisbee, so I have to imagine that if it were oil, I would notice a change in the levels) and saw no change since I last checked about a month ago. While I was trying to look like I know what I am doing, I noticed a new oil drop on the pavement - under the oil pan on the drivers side. I have replaced the pan gasket within the last 2 years and know that the car has a timing cover leak, but that has been fairly limited to the passenger's side.

The oil pan looked dirty, and showed SOME evidence of an small oil leak, but the other spot I noticed worried me a bit more: behind the oil pan (looks like it is almost center of the front axel) there is a fluid leak of some kind. Whatever the fluid is, it looks to be clear and has a slight hint of an odor (not sweet, not oily...sort of like stale water). When I turned the car on to back it up, I had the defrosters running. All in all, I would say they were on a total of 45 seconds, but the "water" is still dripping several hours later.

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Lexus GX 2010+ :: Odor Like Burnt Rubber From Rear After Driving?

My GX460 (2000 miles) has an odor after driving it from the rear. Smells like burnt rubber. Normal? I notice it mostly when I pull into the garage.

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2008 4WD 2.3L - Rattling / Exhaust Leak?

Wife is operating a 08 Escape with about 31K miles on her. She loves the vehicle but since we bought it with 24K miles on it it has had a rattle under it. I assumed that it was the heat shield and i would get around to securing it but haven't yet. Here's the question. I noticed recently that about mid way back under the pass side there is a black spot developing on the concrete where she parks every day. The vehicle does not sit and idle there. Its started and is moving in about 20 every time. I have not got under there yet but was looking for possible answers as to what and where to look? Flex pipe? Bad seal on exhaust? If this is the case should a 31K mile vehicle have this issue? The vehicle is louder than a 2.3L should be but from reading that seems normal. If it is the flex is this something that a novice wrench can do?

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 V6 - AC Defrost Only - Vacuum Leak

I have a 2004 Ford Escape 3.0 V6 FWD, and the air conditioning has been blowing only to defrost for a few weeks now. After many searches online, most sources seem to agree it is a vacuum leak, as the selector switch is vacuum driven if you want anything except defrost. I popped the hood and within one minute I found one open vacuum line that looks like it has been worn in two.

The line in question goes from the vacuum canister towards the passenger side of the firewall, then goes to a T connector, then a line (the one that is broken) continues towards the heater core lines to where the break in the line is. I found a picture online of what it should look like, but I am having trouble accessing the line that goes through the firewall and behind the glove compartment. I am pretty sure this vacuum line continues through the firewall between the two heater lines, but after that I am stumped.

I popped the glove box down out of the way and I see two thin vacuum lines and a small metal "can" nearby. The black line goes from a fitting and into the A/C bundle, and the white line goes from the top of the metal canister and down into the same bundle. My main question is which line controls the AC selector, and how do I pass a replacement line through that part of the firewall to make a good connection, as it seems the break is at the firewall itself with no extra sticking out for me to connect to.

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2002 3.0L - Thermostat Housing Leak

I set out to do a coolant flush but ran into an increasing number of problems. When I went to replace the thermostat I discovered one of the three bolts would not come out due to the inside thread on the thermostat housing being stripped. I purchased a brand new housing and O-ring.

When I reinstalled the thermostat (also Motorcraft brand) with the above O-ring and attached all the hoses I had a severe leak between the thermostat housing and the intake hose connecter. I diagnosed the problem as the O-ring slipping off of the lip or ledge inside the thermostat housing and not sealing all the way around.

The Motorcraft O-ring seemed like the diameter was too big for the interior lip of the thermostat housing because the ring would pop up on one side whenever I tried to fully seat it on the interior lip. I went to AutoZone and purchased an orange Duralast O-ring, and while it seemed to be a little smaller diameter than the Motorcraft it too slipped off when I tightened down the housing.

I have tried everything, and every time I tightened down the housing I did it very slowly and carefully doing an 1/4 turn at a time with the three bolts but still the O-ring would slip off.

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