Ford - Electrical-wiring - Brakes - F150 - Sensors :: 1990 - Cruise Control Quit
Apr 4, 2014
I recently changed out the power boost canister for the brakes on a 1990 f-150 2wd. It was successful but now i have no cruise control. I double checked my plugs, all good. I checked my brake lights, all good. brake pedal seems fine and completely raised when not in use. i looked for a fuse and can't find it for that system, seems odd. it's not in fuse jct under dash, can't find a fuse jct under hood, seems odd also. No check engine light has lit.
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Where is the cruise control amplifier located on an 85 F-150? The Chilton manual just says "behind the instrument panel". No pic or further description. Just looking up from the bottom of the dash I see a "black box" with 2 wires going into the top of it located just between the steering column and the wiper switch.
Is this it?
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My center brake light went out a month ago. Thought it was the bulb so replaced that, still didn't work. Checked the fuse and its not broken so my guess was electrical?
Hasn't come on once that I know of but I was randomly walking behind my truck and the light was on. Truck was off lights were off and key wasn't in the ignition.
Went and turned my truck on and turned the lights on and the cbl stayed on. When I switched my lights off it went out and stayed out.
Now I'm definitely thinking wiring but not sure where to start fixing?
Oh and it's a 1990 F150 XLT
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I have a 1990 f-150 that periodically (and rapidly) blows the fuse for the turn signals. The brake/tail lights continue to work, but just the turn signals quits. Looking for a schematic of those systems?
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Looking for wiring diagram for the older Ford cruise control switches. I'm wanting to add an aftermarket system but use the factory switches. It's for a 99 ranger with the steering wheels like the mark 8s, older mustangs, explorers, and many others, had.
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i have a 96 ranger and want to put cruise control in it. is the wiring there and what other parts do i need to get without going aftermarket.
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I am trying to find out if Ford's cruise control has gotten crappy, or if mine has problems in my '06 F250. When I set the cruise, it goes about 3 MPH above what I set it at, then drops to about 3 MPH below, then it eventually stays where I set it. That is until I come to the top of an overpass or other small grade, then it is back to about 3 MPH over again as I reach the top and level out, then going back to where I set it.
The cruise control in my previous Ford trucks (83 & 91), as well as my 82 Mustang, 85 Lincoln, wife's 97 Toyota and the 2013 Chevy rental I just had, works fine. Where you set it is where it stays. Of course going up or down a steep grade, they all are going to lose or gain speed.
Anyway, I have taken the truck to the dealer twice for the cruise control. The first time is when I got the truck in '08. They replaced something else non-related, and said that would fix the cruise. It did work marginally, as the fluctuation was +-4 MPH before. I just took it in again before it goes off warranty, and they said the cruise is operating normally. So, there's my story. Is this normal, or is something wrong?
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I have an 89 f250 7.3. horn has not been working for the longest time the relay clicks but still nothing. It doesn't matter weather the key is in the on or off position. I know it might be a grounding problem because the cruise control does not work any more (even though recently it was working just fine). I didn't see any bad fuses.
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F250 6.8L .. So Ive read a lot of posts about intermittent cruise control issues. I understand that the most common failure is the brake switch on the master cylinder. My concern is that I am unable to run the cruise control self test I keep reading about. Does this test not work on my model year. I have tried even when the cruise control is working and still the cc light does no come on.
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I have a 1994 f150 5.0 engine and automatic transmission. Problem I am having is speedometer, cruise control is not working. Overdrive light is flashing and number 18 fuse keep blowing. horn is still working...
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I have a wire that i think belongs to my Cruise control and I can't find out were it connects. It is dark blue/green stripe. It is in a wiring bundle with the oil sending wires ( two wires blk/w and y/o ).
I also get a code ....no sig from clutch neutral switch.
I just got done putting new heads on my little 2.9 and can't wait to use this as my daily drive. These two wiring issues are keeping my truck from running well enough to drive.
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1997 F250 HD 7.3L It is a May build so is mainly 1996 parts. Came from the factory with auto transmission but PO did manual swap. Truck had factory cruise control but never worked after the swap. I found clutch safety switch missing so installed that and now it works as far as truck only starting with clutch in and other pins ohm good but it didn't fix the no cruise issue. All the diagrams I can find are wrong so I am stumped.
Horn works and steering wheel brushes appear to be functional.
Brake switch has 12V in and out so I think it is ok.
Brake switch on master cylinder has power in and out so I believe it is ok.
All brake lights work since I read that diagrams don't show it but they are somehow tied into the cruise.
I believe the issue is in the clutch safety switch (CPPS) wiring as I only have power on one wire however my colors don't match my Haynes or online diagrams. Also, no where can I find if this circuit runs on hot 12V or ground. Some wrong diagrams show hot 12V coming in on the light green wire from the brake switch but others show a hard ground on the red/Blu wire.
Most diagrams say I should have red/LtBlu, Red/LtGrn, LtGrn, Gray/Yellow. I actually have Red/Blue, White/Red, Tan/Blue, White/Brn. The White/Brn has power coming into the switch.
The connector for the automatic transmission column shifter is disconnected and the shifter was removed. I read that this needed to be jumpered to the tan/blue wire after a conversion on the CPPS but only on 2002 and up trucks so I don't think this affects me. That plug is for overdrive cancel.
Looking for a good diagram for a manual shift, diesel cruise control circuit that shows my color wires on the CPPS? I have had this truck 2 months and have fixed everything except this and will be making a long trip soon so cruise would be nice to have functional but I am stumped.
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1991 F250 Supercab Diesel 4X4. I made a mistake while wiring up my trailer lights and ended up grounding out my brake controller, frying it. Along with that, I popped a couple fuses as well (1, 5 and 9 I believe). Replaced all fuses and got my signals (F/R) back at least.
Here's what's NOT working/messed up:
*Brake Lights
*Cruise Control
*Rear ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving.
*Front hazards work, not rear. When I apply the brake, the hazards pause in the on position.
I've tested the brake switch on the brake pedal (Green/Red and Green) and it works properly. So, current is obviously not reaching the rear brake lights.
Another note. The truck is wired with a 7 pin plug in the bed for a goose neck trailer. It also was wired to a 6 pin on the bumper. I replaced the 6 pin with a 7. The signal/brake pins on the plugs (both) and also not receiving power. What's the next thing to check?
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I own a 2014 F-150 XLT 3.5 L 6 cyl Twin. Saturday afternoon I tried to start the truck once and it didn't start like it normally does. It started on the second try, but the A/C didn't work and I got a "Starting System Fault" warning on my screen. When I shut the truck off, it would not start at all. All the lights and gauges worked, just no start.
Had to tow it to Ford Dealer, where the service department had already closed for the day (of course). Today it was determined by the service department that the Body Control Module had malfunctioned. I was told that the tech tapped on the control module and the truck started. Now waiting two days for a replacement part to come in. Luckily, I'm just under 36K miles and three years. Is this a common occurrence?
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I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
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Looking for a wiring diagram for a F-150 XLT LARIAT 5.8L 4BBL, all the books I have looked at show the wiring for this year with fuel injection and this truck came with a 351W with a Holley 600 4BBL, I have a few wire's in the engine compartment that melted away all the insulation, they are located close to where the harness passes the firewall before the ignition module. Is this a common problem on old models ?. Need a clear copy of the correct diagram for a f-150 1987 with carburetor, how I can get a copy so I can fix this problem before it gets worse.
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My work truck that I drive, a 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 extended cab, rear parking sensors quit working. The button on the dash is lit up all the time like when you shut it off. I posted this on the F-150 section too and was able to find a suggestion that you can listen to each sensor while in reverse and if you don't hear a clicking at the sensor it has failed. All (4) sensors are clicking away while in reverse so not sure what else to check, no one in the F150 section, so that is why I put it here.
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I have a 1990 F-350 7.3 lariat crew cab. The tail lights fail to work but all the turn signal and brake lights work. I changed the light switch located to the left of the steering wheel but that didn't solve the problem. all the fuses under the dash appear to be ok to. Is there another fuse for just the tail lights.
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My truck is a 1990 F-150 with the 351. I was replacing the spark plugs last night, got it all wrapped up and everything squared away, and after firing the truck up I noticed a ticking noise. It was not there before I replaced the old plugs, and it is not at all loud. I can hardly hear it with the hood closed. It appears to be coming from the driver's side of the engine. It does not misfire when its idling, and it revs smoothly. However, while driving it is noticeably choppy and feels sluggish.
Any thoughts on what it could be? I used dielectric grease on the boots, but I did not replace the plug wires themselves, or the distributor cap. I am probably going to replace the plug wires today though, because the plugs I took out were not in good condition and its been a bit too long since I replaced them last. Its also worth noting this engine is less than years old. This is a frustrating problem because I've replaced the spark plugs on her before, so I'm not quite sure what I did wrong this time.
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One of my outside roof lights quit. I replaced the bulb and it's still down. These are all on one fuse right? 2001 Super Duty is the year.
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I have a '90 F150 and both the yellow ABS light and the red BRAKE light are on.
It was fine until my buddy did a little brake work for me, including replacing a couple brake lines and a parking brake cable. He bled the system at the lines going into the front calipers because the bleeder valves on the calipers where corroded and frozen. I then replaced the calipers and bled the system properly. Three times. I don't think the problem is from the brake work.
The brakes still work, by the way. The pedal just feels a bit spongy and I think the brakes don't work as well as they could.
If the truck is not running, I can pump the brakes a few times, and it will make a sound like it's sucking air a few times. Then the sound stops and the pedal firms up.
If the truck IS running, it keeps making the sucking air sound no matter how many times I pump it, and the pedal feel stays the same. I think it might be a bad brake booster.
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