I finally decided to replace a leaky manifold as the low compression and leaking oil has gotten to be too much. Not sure but it looks like I'll have to remove the intake manni to get to it. A fortunate side effect is that the oil leaking from the manni seems to have lubricated most of what would be rust-welded bolts. I'd driven it like this since I bought it 3 yrs ago.
View 19 RepliesI own a 2000 E 250 Econoline van with 170,000 miles. I've been encountering loss of power on acceleration for months. Terrible gas mileage (8-10 mpg) and just recently, I get that rotten egg smell when I gun it and and travel above 65/70. I can feel heat from under the van when i step out as well. I've been blowing individual coil packs every other month after a long drive with a lot of inclines. It all points to a clogged catalytic converter. This van has 3. A front left and right by the manifolds, and a large one before the muffler. My question is, what causes them to go bad? I want to fix the cause before spend the money on new cats. Ive heard a rich fuel mixture could do it. Are there sensors that need to be changed?
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
View 3 RepliesLeaking exhaust manifold? The truck has a much louder than normal "knock" when accelerating. At first I thought and had some bad fuel in the tank. I eliminated that with a full take of good fuel and some STP but the "knocking" continued. Then I thought that perhaps it wasn't firing on all cylinders but it felt like it had full power. I took it to my mechanic and he said it as a exhaust manifold leak. He said that he has never replaced the exhaust manifold but that it was a "nightmare" and expensive. He also said that it's not a safety issue but on the long run the leak would cause the truck not to pass its emission test. He said the problem was with rusted bolts that would be difficult to remove.
View 12 RepliesMy truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
View 3 RepliesMy wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
View 1 RepliesSo I needed to replace my exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts and I didn't get the project finished in time. I have school today and have to drive my truck there and it is maybe 2 miles at the most from my house. Is it ok to drive that far with them open? I will finish putting the gaskets on today when i get home and then close them again.
View 5 Replies2004 New Body F150 5.4L
Removed all cops, plugs, intake manifold and driver side head to repair bad valve. Removed Left side cat pipes as well. Had to disconnect most of upper engine harness and had to remove cpm and battery.
Repaired all mechanical issues and reconnected all electrical connectors and now when I turn the key to start the red security light on dash is still blinking steadily and I get no crank no start situation and it blows #34 PCM fuse which is injector/fuel fuse as soon as hit start.
Here are some things I have done trying to trouble shoot.
Battery shows 13.65 V
Unplugged FPDM back on rear frame rail and disconnected far left harness (looking from front) from PCM (should be engine harness), both the smaller plug that plugs into another harness and the main plug to the PCM.
Now when I turn on the key the security light goes out, the dash display says engine fail safe mode and the motor will turn over when I turn the key. This is still with the #34 fuse blown.
If I plug the engine harness back into the PCM, same no click no start.
If I leave engine harness unplugged from PCM and plug FPDM back in and turn key now it goes back to no crank no start and the security light blinks rapidly.
Only way I can get anything to turn over is far left harness disconnected, both plugs and the fdpm disconnected. Display says Engine Fail Safe Mode, and the security light goes out when I turn the key to start. I'm at a standstill as to what to do. The truck started fine prior to me taking it down for service.
Tip for searching for "how to remove ford exhaust hangers" - these items are now among my most hated items. Very easy to install with a little lube on the hanger, but removing them especially while they are installed on a the truck is a major PITA! Spent forever today trying to pry them off and it finally dawned on me how to remove them easily. Thought I would share.....use a pitman arm puller or similar puller. Mine fit perfectly and made removing several of these (more than once) much easier.
View 6 RepliesI am changing the passenfer side exhaust manifold on my '00 150. The bolts all came out fairly easy, sprayed them often in PB over the last 2 days, my problem is the 2nd and 3rd nuts on the bottom are under the motor mount. Do I need to remove that or is there an easier way that I'm missing.
View 11 RepliesSo I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
I am getting my truck back today after all the work that has been done to it over the past 3 weeks, and well, I have always wanted to gut my cats, but have been worried to waste the cats buy gutting them and didnt want to cause a disturbence in the airflow by gutting them, so i figured atleast if i was aching to be illegal and gut them, the least i could do is just remove them, but my question is, will it mess the o2 sensors up? Currently the o2 sensors arnt connected to the cats at all, so my feelings is it wouldn't mess with the truck or would it? I was thinking of just removing the two cats in the true dual, and replacing the segments with pieces of pipe, would that be sufficient?
View 12 Repliesi've got an 05 f250 SD 5.4 v8. i had a bad manifold and decided to get headers. i figured i would get the most performance of of them if i did high flow cats too. oh and i also already have an exhaust on it. the only cats i can find for it are universal fit. my question is how would i be able to get the cats off of the factory pipes without damaging the pipes or original cats? plus the pipe with the flange end is a really small piece. would i be able to get it off just by heating it up?
View 1 RepliesSo here's the synopsis: My girlfriend's 2001 Ford Escape V6 4x4 with 196,000 miles had the check engine light come on two weeks ago. The code read : running lean and misfire in 4/6. Changed all plugs and coils, engine light was still on, still running lean and there's a vacuum leak. Changed all intake gaskets, light went out. NOW it's sputtering and the exhaust manifold turns cherry red (clogged cat). Changed the front cat & Y pipe, remove back cat. Also replaced muffler and resonator. Car STILL sputters and idles around 200 rpm. Now it stalls when turning around or coming to a full stop, and exhaust manifold still heats up enough to turn cherry red. Why this is happening?
View 19 Replies I currently own a 2009 F-150 XLT, ext. cab, 4X4, 4.6l, 6R80 trans. Surprise, Surprise I have just developed an exhaust leak at the manifold collector. After some careful investigation, I separated the pipe from the manifold and the sealing surface is totally rotted away. I cleaned it up as best as I could and slathered some muffler cement inside the joint to seal the leak. It is about 80% better but will get worse again I'm sure.
I visited my local Ford dealer and talked to a friend I have working there and he said Ford has known about quality issues with manifolds for years and he was surprised that the manifolds lasted 70k miles.
I am hoping to use the truck as is through the winter and in the spring I am going to install these headers:JBA Headers - Reviews on JBA Cat4ward Exhaust Headers - Stainless, Ceramic & Chrome Finishes
This intake:K&N 63 Series AirCharger High Flow Cold Air Intake Kits Best Price & Reviews
This tuner:Bully Dog Triple Dog GT Tuner (49-State Legal) - Bully Dog GT Tuner Reviews on Gas Programs for Dodge, Chevy, Ford & Nissan Trucks
I already installed a Flowmaster American thunder catback exhaust system about a year ago...
I was checking the oil in my truck yesterday. I noticed the passenger side exhaust manifold was flaking rust. I mean flaking bad, big chunks coming off. Even the heat shield was rusted bad enough that it is barely holding on. Looks like in a couple years will need replaced. I have never seen this on my other Fords.
View 4 RepliesI can't get my exhaust manifold bolts off. They are in bad shape. The 10mm is too loose and 3/8 just rounds. I have had the torches on them too! Can the bolts be cut off with a torch?? Haven't broken any. Can't get the bolt heads to move. It's an 04, original manifolds. I am working the driver's side. I can't figure this one out. How to get this manifold off?
View 4 RepliesHow difficult is it to change the passenger exhaust manifold? I have just finished replacing the left exhaust manifold. The biggest issue was rusted fasteners and inexperience. Have torches. Any you tube videos show the left manifold being changed but not the right. I do not have a hoist and work in my driveway. Is the right side more difficult and should I leave it to someone with a hoist?
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab 4.6 auto that has a leaking exhaust manifold. I changed both manifolds about 3 years ago and the passenger side bank is leaking again. I haven't gotten into yet to see if its just the gasket or the manifold itself. My question is does anyone know of a set of headers I can put on the truck that will bolt up to the existing exhaust? If I make the switch to headers I don't want to have to redo the whole exhaust system.
View 3 RepliesI have a 95 4wd f250 with a 351w my manifold gaskets are leaking I was wondering if when I that the time to remove the manifolds and probably be drilling and tapping should I go with headers if I should where can I get a very cheap set I'm on a budget...
View 1 RepliesI have an 2003 Explorer 4.0 and I am looking at replacing my muffler. Only problem is I don't know who to go with. I am looking for a mellow tone with minimal interior noise. I have been looking at Flowmaster, Magnaflow & Dynomax although I can't make a decision. I have heard how the 4.0 Ranger sound's on Magnaflows website(sound's OK) aside from all the horrible sound clips floating around that don't have good quality to listen too. I was looking at Flowmaster 50 series Delta Flow and there SUV muffler(a tad thicker than Delta series) but want some feedback on who/what to go with. Also, right before the tailpipe ends, next to the spare tire underneath, there looks to be what looks like a resonator if I am correct on the tailpipe. Can this be removed and replaced with new piping? Will it hurt performance or make the exhaust sound different?
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