We own a 12 passenger Ford Econoline and would like to add head rests to the bench seats. We have 4 children; 3 in car seats and 1 in a high back booster, but she's quickly outgrowing it, and I don't want to take her out of it until there's something there to support her neck in an accident.
View 3 RepliesI have about 26k miles on a 2012 prius v 5. Recently I noticed that the vehicle produces vibrations. You can feel it in the steering wheel, but also notice it with head rests and visors vibrating. This can occur by going as slow as 25 or 30 mph. The other issue is that when going over pumps the shocks feel soft and the rear of the vehicle jumps one way or the other. I still have the factory tires with lots of wear remaining. I had this issue in a Jeep years ago and it was the faulty sway bars. My understanding is that Prius v's only have front sway bars.
View 3 RepliesCan the head rests in a 2013 ES be moved forward or back, not just up or down? I thought I read somewhere they could, but for the life of me I can only get mine to go up and down ....
View 6 RepliesI installed a alpine power amp - keeping the factory head unit. It sounds much better but I lost the illumination of the buttons on the head unit. I used the Metra connectors and matching the colors and adding wires to connect with the amplifier. There is 12 volts going to the head unit on the orange and white connector but no illumination of the buttons.
2012 Prius v, no JBL, with nav.
I have a 96 E-350 7.3 PSD. I noticed that the A/C seems to work well on the Highway but not so well stopped Idling. I thought maybe it was airflow so I replaced the Fan Clutch... Seemed like it was better for while (could have been my imagination)... I decided to evac the system and refill. The system takes 4 lbs of freon. The van was indeed low so I thought I had found my problem, but it didn't seem to work after evacing and refilling.
With gauges on the system the low side pressure when it was 80 degrees out this morning was 70 and the high side was 145. A/c temp from the vents was about 70.. If I raised the RPM's to about 2k, the low side would drop to around 30-35 the high side would stay about the same... and the AC in the Cabin was in the 50's...
Does this problem have to do with air flow over the condenser, or is possible that the compressor is getting tired. (The compressor stays on the entire time) Could it be a clogged orifice?
I have a 67 Econoline supervan, and have been getting a grinding noise out of the rear end at certain rpm's. It's only under heavy load, when I'm first accelerating, that the noise comes out. Now here's the question, is this the wheel bearings, or my rear differential in dire need of attention? Now, the only thing I've done so far to remedy it is change the differential oil, to no avail.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford Econoline conversion campervan that I don't use very often. I need to open the hood to jump start the battery. Last time I opened the hood I did not notice anything wrong with the hood or the hood release latch inside the cab. Now when I pulled the hood release latch inside the cab, nothing happens to the hood at all (the hood does not open at all). Is there a way I can open the hood or do I need to tow it to my mechanic?
View 4 RepliesHaving Cruise control issues. A diagram would be useful. Most of the early CC systems work the same way but have discovered there are variants in wire color codes. Specifically looking for Cruise Control wiring schematics for 83 econoline.
View 8 RepliesWorking on my bosses 97 Econoline conversion van. The steering wheel was flopping in the breeze, gear indicator was off and some of the time it would be in reverse when you thought it was in park. Checked the torx on the shift cable plate and they are tight. Replaced the 2 bushings on the shift column. They tightened up the steering wheel flopping around. I checked the shift cable and it appears to be in good shape.
It would start sometimes if you worked the shifter in park or moved it to neutral. Now it will not turn over. Shift lock actuator does not appear to be working. Does not lock it park. No continuity between any of the three pins with the actuator pushed in or out. If you turn the key you can take it out of park without pushing on the brake. Really do not know the series of events that have to occur to make it turn over. How to trouble shoot the problem?
I have a 2004 and 2007 Gen 2 and both have problems with the fabric covering on the pulling loss from under the edge. Originally there was just a small margin of fabric that tucked around and under the the padded top cover and was/is held by the plastic inter plate that is suppose to grip it and hold it tight over the outer edge and top. Nah! In both cars, it seems to have shrunk enough that it eventually pulls out of this friction grip of this lower plate. On the 2007, I re-did this by removing the inside screws and pushing the fabric back under this plate, but it is now coming loss again. I just got the 2004 and it was already loose on the front edge and there just isn't enough fabric margin to secure it again. Really seems to have shrunk over time and I conclude that is a problem common to both.
I wonder if there is a fix for this by just finding a fabric that will closely match the upholstery. I even considered some head liner fabric from one of my parts cars but found it was just a spray-on stuff on a molded liner panel. If I had a damaged seat I guess that would work but all of them are still use-able.
I finally decided to replace a leaky manifold as the low compression and leaking oil has gotten to be too much. Not sure but it looks like I'll have to remove the intake manni to get to it. A fortunate side effect is that the oil leaking from the manni seems to have lubricated most of what would be rust-welded bolts. I'd driven it like this since I bought it 3 yrs ago.
View 19 RepliesMy truck has a vacuum leak or something. it will not start no mater what i do until i take off the vacuum house that goes from the back of the throttle to the right side of the valve cover. and when it running if i put it back it stop.i have changed that vacuum hose and the connector on the valve cover. What is going on here?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Econline E-250 that I have had since it rolled off the factory floor. It has about 225,000 miles on it. I don't use it much any more, but I want to keep it in good running condition - because I do use it occasionally. I had it checked out, nose to tail, and the only thing the mechanic found that needed to be fixed was that it need new ball joints and an ABS switch. I have had that work done.
My question is this: how often, how far, and at what speed should I plan to drive it to keep it in good running condition?
I am not the original owner of this 1990 E250 cargo van with a 302 in it. I am trying to troubleshoot this shudder I am having. It only happens when I am just starting off from a stop. Every other place the tranny runs and shifts great. I trying to find a starting point and after reading a bunch in a bunch of different places, I am confused as to the tranny I have or even had.
It has in big bold letters METRIC on the bottom of the pan. It also has Automatic Overdrive and Ford on the bottom of the pan also. It is a 14 bolt pan with the two rear corners of the pan chamfered off. I see now it is DEFINITELY the AOD installed and NOT the AODE. The thing is my steering column is labeled 1 D and OD. That is a 3 spd overdrive to me. What the heck is going on? How can I tell what the tranny was that came out of the van?
When I look under the van at the shift linkage, you can definitely tell the linkage is colored red which to me looks like somebody has been down there playing around. Is it possible to put a AOD into this van with the steering column the way it is? Could this be a reason for my early shudder at starting off from a stop? Once I put my foot in it or get moving at a quicker pace, the shudder goes away. Something is not right with the way this tranny is set up. I am not even sure where to start.
I have an '88 E-250 with no power to accessories. Was starting fine but now no power to anywhere but the ignition light that is below and to the left of the steering wheel. No headlights or radio. Checked my fusible links but just visual so gotta get the meter out there and start poking around. Only thing I did different before it started this was take loose the ground wire holding strap that holds the middle of the ground wire to the body but I didn't think this was an actual ground spot but I could be wrong.
Earlier I reinstalled that strap and took out the ignition switch. I noticed that the radio turned on when I turned the key to acc. but not when I turned it to run. Would the headlights run through this ignition switch on the column? I have power to the yellow wires coming into the switch and the ground is good. I checked the fusible links I could find out in the engine bay and all tested good but could've missed some. Fuses in the box looked good but don't know if there is a master fuse box for bigger fuses but I don't see one.
1988 E-250 5.8 auto.
I own a 2000 E 250 Econoline van with 170,000 miles. I've been encountering loss of power on acceleration for months. Terrible gas mileage (8-10 mpg) and just recently, I get that rotten egg smell when I gun it and and travel above 65/70. I can feel heat from under the van when i step out as well. I've been blowing individual coil packs every other month after a long drive with a lot of inclines. It all points to a clogged catalytic converter. This van has 3. A front left and right by the manifolds, and a large one before the muffler. My question is, what causes them to go bad? I want to fix the cause before spend the money on new cats. Ive heard a rich fuel mixture could do it. Are there sensors that need to be changed?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford Econoline conversion campervan that I don't use very often. I need to open the hood to jump start the battery. Last time I opened the hood I did not notice anything wrong with the hood or the hood release latch inside the cab. Now when I pulled the hood release latch inside the cab, nothing happens to the hood at all (the hood does not open at all).
Is there a way I can open the hood or do I need to tow it to my mechanic?
I have a 1990 E250 and the heat does not blow. I have only had the van a year and it somewhat worked when I got it, but at the end of least winter It stopped blowing. It does not matter what setting I have it on low or high. if I turn the defrost on and put my hand on the dash I can feel warm air but it does not blow. It is the same for the vent, I can feel warm air coming out but does not blow. Sometimes if I hit a bump it seems like it will blow a bit harder but not like it should. My question is, should I just replace the blower motor, or is there something else I should check first?
View 4 RepliesI have a 08 E250 4.6 getting code po306 misfire #6.. What should I check or change first and where is # 6 looking from the front of truck looking at the seats the driver's seat on my right # 1 is where and #6 is where oh 57,342 miles...
View 4 Replies'03 E250 connector C3136 located by the left lower B Pillar---have lost power to the Brown wire which seems to be designated as Circuit 124.
Which fuse controls that circuit? I have a factory EVTM but I can't find what fuse to check. And here I though I knew something?!
'03 E250, standard van with RKE if that's pertinent.............
Looking to replace the on-board 4-way flashing system with Whelen strobes and looking to have the column mounted button be the on/off switch for that power supply. I have a schematic from a '97 E250 (almost identical FWIW) which I can post the pin out, test procedure and EVTM version of the hazard portion of that Multi Function Switch if that's useful.
I know it would be far, far less complicated to control the Whelen via a separate switch but this above reversible mod would be somewhat cool IMHO.