Ford - Crownvictoria :: Shifting Becomes Rough / Car Revs And Jerks In Warm Weather
May 31, 2012
I have a 94 Ford Crown Victoria with 180,000 miles. I got it from my grandmother in 2008. It's a great car a runs like a dream most of the time. Here's the problem though...for the past three summers, when the temperature outside gets above about 70 degrees, it starts giving me transmission problems. The shifting becomes rough, and it revs and jerks. It does this all summer and then when the weather cools off again it runs beautifully. Do I need a new transmission or is there something less expensive that I can do to fix this? Why does the transmission act up only in warm weather?
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Rough shifts like my 99 GLS (93k mi.) suffers from. Why this would happen only in warm weather and stop and go driving and not when the outside temp is less than 60 degrees?
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I have a 1999 Ford F-150 XLT, with the 5.4 and a 4spd auto. 172,XXX miles on the clock and i have owned it starting on April of 2014.
Tonight driving home from work, it took some time on the highway (4 miles) to shift into top gear. When you lift off the gas pedal after reaching the speed limit, normally the truck will shift from 3rd to 4th no problem. When I let off the pedal, there was no gear change.
It took sometime for it to shift up. When downshifting on the exit ramp, there was nothing abnormal. Where I live it is 19 Degrees Fahrenheit and this is the beginning of the cold snap that will last well into mid-January of next year.
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It is difficult to explain (and google) but my 1.4 16V Golf 4 does this sometimes: while driving at a steady speed car jerks for a moment and revs drop quite much, a moment later it is fine. It feels like I had stepped on the brakes, but when I actually try that the revs won't drop as much. Like my engine seizes up for a fraction of a second but there is no noise. It has done that actually for 3 years, but it was really rare, about twice a year, but now I have had those jerks three days in a row.
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2001 F-350 w/powerstroke. Tranny is the automatic w/overdrive. right at 170K miles and it has not been serviced since I've owned it (about 10 years).
Lately it is jerking when shifting, especially noticeable when I'm pulling my 5er (10K lbs). Almost a "clunk". No warning lights or OD flashing. I live at 6000 feet and play at over 9K so mountain driving is routine. Fluid is up to right spot on the dip-stick.
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Trans has new solenoids in the trans but is shifting too firm sometimes from 1-2 or 2-3.. It is tolerable going up, but when slowing down it jerks really bad from 2-1. Sounds and feels horrible for the trans and miserable during stop and go traffic. Ive had to switch it to Manual and start off in 2nd gear. Im deleted, with intake, and a custom sct x4 tune. My main question is there any way a new tune could have better shift points?
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It is pretty common knowledge that when we start our cars they initially rev to ~1200rpm for a minute or two and slowly drop down to just below 800rpm. I generally use this as the "warmup" time for the car and try not to drive until the rpms drop. But lately in this cooler weather (<20F) when I start my car the revs do not go to 1200rpm, they start right around 800rpm and don't fluctuate. Why this might be happening?
Last winter I did not pay attention to the revs so I can't confirm or deny that this happened before. But I do notice it only in cooler temps. If it is much above 30F the car will start like normal.
Only engine mods are APR stage 1+; VWR intake and APR HPFP.
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So, I have a 97 f150 with a 4.6 that idles low, around 5-600 all the time, and stalls in warm weather only. I just cleaned the IAC to no avail..
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2001 F150 5.4 v8 ... In the past few months my truck has been a bit strange, but in the past few weeks it's gotten to the point I'm nervous to drive it. Usually when shifting around 30-35, the engine revs up and stops accelerating and I have to take my foot off the pedal to make it return to normal. It doesn't do this after I do that, but the past time I tried to drive I couldn't get above 35 and the rpm was in the upper 2000s going at a constant 35. When I stop for any reason such as making a turn, when it shifts it lurches forward and I hear a loud clunk.
Naturally, I've checked all the fluids and fuses and they're all fine. The mechanic I regularly visit insists that nothing is wrong with it.
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My trusty 1994 Ford F150 is starting to show her age, I think. I'm noticing a few issues:
1 - most concerning to me is she jerks pretty hard when shifting through the first few gears during relatively warm weather. The cold snap has abated the issue for now. Had the transmission fluid checked - mechanic said it's fine.
2 - This is a fun electrical issue. I'm driving down the highway when suddenly the cruise control shuts off, as does the speedometer and the digital odometer. The Tach still works, as do the rest of the gauges. Maybe 10 - 15 minutes later, they all come back on. It's done this a couple times.
3# - Really annoying but very minor; when I push down on the foot feed, there's a bit of a squeak in the engine. I'm guessing it's a tensioner pulley on the serpentine belt, but why it would only happen when I give it some gas?
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So, the R is my first stick car and I've only been driving stick for 5-6 months now. I know that smoothness comes with time. I feel pretty comfortable with my skills overall (still have some issue with hill starts and smooth starts in general). Wen I don't know what I'm doing wrong when it comes to upshifting from 1st to 2nd. All other shifts are smooth.
When I try to shift normally, the car jerks. So, I tried releasing the clutch slower, this gets rid of the jerk but it bogs the engine. I've tried various things like getting back on the gas a little sooner, or pausing/slowing down the clutch release through the engagement point but I just can't seem to figure out what works and what doesn't. Is this just an issue of a larger gear ratio gap, rev hang, or what?
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We have a 2000 Ford Explorer and the Driver's side electronic door lock will only unlock during warm weather. The lock will work to lock the doors, but if the temperature is below a certain degree, the door won't unlock. What is the fix?
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My 2002 Grand Prix jerks when shifting. It originally happened earlier in the spring but fixed itself after I had a coolant leak fixed. Now it's happening again. The coolant and ATF levels look okay. I found one possible fix on Google but wanted to get some other opinions first. What's wrong, or how urgent it is? Is this something I might be able to fix myself without a lot of trouble?
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Well, my saga continues on my intermittent AC problem on my 99 f350 v10. As before, the AC blows cold but mysteriously stops working on occasion when climbing a grade or stopping at a light in warm weather. I bought a gage kit and runs ~ 45/250psi on the low/high gauges. Clutch is stopping and the metal tube from the accumulator tank runs warm when this occurs.
Seems like the problem occurs when the under hood temp reaches a certain level. Thought it might have been one of the switches but the pressure seems to be OK when these problems are occurring. What/how to check to find the problem? some of my thoughts are:
1. Wire a light in the clutch engagement circuit to see if the problem is in the compressor clutch coil not working when powered up or some heat related failure of the wiring continuity.
2. Check the Hi and low pressure switches for continuity when this is happening. to do this I need to know a few things- location of the high pressure switch low press in on the accumulator) and whether the switch should be open or closed in normal operation. Also can the switches be replaced without losing the charge in the system?
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Went to pick up a serpentine belt, they are diff for warm weather package. How do you tell if your 2008 F350 has the "Warm Weather Package".....
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I have noticed that due to warmer weather and more Prius C owners that the MPG's are going up. No many in the 40's mpg anymore. I enjoy people posting and obtaining over the EPA of 50 mpg, the 60 mpg figure appears to be fairly easy
to obtain with the Prius C.
On our Prius the last mpg was 52.3 calculated this is real world driving with my wife driving 75% of the time and she does not drive strictly for MPG's.
I believe we should all take a minute and pat ourselves on the back as all the countless gallons of gas we our saving and will be saving for our friends and neighbors who have no choice but perhaps to drive large cars and pickup trucks...
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I have a 2010 Matrix with automatic transmission. 5.5 year old with only 44,000 KM ... The transmission jerks annoyingly when up-shifting from gear one to two. I replaced the transmission oil and had Toyota service confirm there is a problem.
I read that the accumulator should be checked and adjusted as well as the throttle which can be done without removing the transmission, but Toyota tells met hat everything is now electronic and there is nothing to adjust. How to proceed?
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I made a horrible decision after my Ranger got totaled and bought a 94 Jetta... When I first got it, the car had trouble starting in the rain but eventually she would fire up. If I drove it immediately away after finally starting, it would jerk really bad when I gave it gas while shifting, until 4th gear. Once she ran for a bit it would smooth out. Nowadays if it rains the car won't start at all, just keeps turning over and I have to wait for a nice dry sunny day then it starts right up.
My mechanic worked on it recently and replaced a sensor in the distributor and the crank shaft sensor, because they showed up on the diagnostic as bad. Once his work was complete, he said he sprayed the engine with water and it started. So that was a week ago and it's raining and it won't start, the engine just turns over so it's not a starter issue. The car only has 143,000 but I am gonna get rid of it this fall but I just wanna know what this wet weather problem is.
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Shifting especially at high revs. The noise also seems to happen when shifting to gears 2,3 and 4; not so much 5 & 6. What is the cause?
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Here in the northwest the weather has been dry and temps in the 40's to over 60 degrees. The mpg's have increased about 5-7 mpg over just a month ago.
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I've got a problem with my R and I don't know what to do. It will overheat after being driven for a bit in warm weather and then if I get stuck in traffic, boom, the temp goes to red and the warning chimes on, stop car and check coolant level. The coolant level is OK, and I can't seem to figure out what is failing. I brought it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and it supposedly didn't throw any faults.
I know it's not just me that sees this happening as I now have two witnesses( I thought I was going crazy at first, I could still be going crazy but the car is definitely exhibiting this issue). Which temp sensor the fans work off of? I was thinking maybe the fans weren't coming on, as soon as I get back under and the highway air is coming, it cools right back down. The problem is sometimes it happens, sometimes it does not. I don't want to continue driving thinking it's just a gauge glitch and end up overheating and ruining my car.
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