Ford - Crownvictoria :: Puffing Sound Consistent With Engine Speed - Higher RPM?
Jul 2, 2012
2000 Crown Victoria, 207K miles, 111K on current engine
My car has been an absolute champ since I took ownership of her at 133K miles, and to this day runs trouble-free. However, it's just started making a noise that's got my scratching my head. I can only describe it as a "puff" sound. It's consistent with engine speed (higher RPM = faster puffs), and seems to get louder the more open the throttle is. If you let off the gas and coast, the noise goes away.
What's kinda confusing me is that the noise does not occur at all while the car is not in gear. If you park and rev the engine, the noise doesn't happen at all. All fluid levels and conditions are good, and there's been no loss of power or other issues from the engine or transmission.
My only guess is perhaps I have a teeny-tiny pinhole leak in my exhaust somewhere. The sound seems to be coming from somewhere very close to the engine, but since it doesn't happen when parked I can't pop the hood and look around for where exactly the sound might be coming from.
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Here's a link to a video where you can hear what I'm describing. The noise is most noticeable around the start (first 18 seconds) and the end of the video when I'm closest to the exhaust pipe:
YouTube ....
You may need headphones to hear it, but the engine seems to be making a bit of a puffing sound during idle. It happens completely randomly and I'm not quite sure what could be causing it.
Aside from this noise, the engine seems to idle normally, and the check engine light isn't on. I had all of the injectors out a few weeks ago for cleaning. They all appear to be working fine. I also cleaned the throttle body at that same time and ensured there were no obstructions for the air intake and filter.
What might be causing this sound? 1999 Ford F250 Super Duty 5.4L
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I just picked up my car after having a shop install ball joints, tie rod ends, and end links and there is a thumping sound coming from I'm guessing the right front tire that is consistent with speed. I had an alignment done today as well. Is it possible that my newish tires are already worn unevenly and the alignment is showing that now?
Either that or the wheel is not seated completely. I'll call the guy back tomorrow when they open and let him know what I hear.
Only reason I didn't so it myself is because its cold out now and he did everything including alignment.
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I'm looking at a dirt cheap Explorer 4.0, has been sitting for 2 years. Runs nice, with a double "knock" noise but quieter than a rod knock. Idles smooth at 600 rpm, "knock" is consistent, but increases as engine increases speed. Has 2 year old oil, and 2 year old gas. Would a tune up support it, and revitalize it, or is the engine almost dead. Still drives, didn't push it to hard. Interior is 9/10, exterior is 10/10. I have him down to 600. 4x4 works, and feels good.
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ok this has me stumped I get this buzzing/humming/vibration sound from what seems like around Defroster passenger side but it is not all the time only at higher speeds and it it intermittent . I have removed cabin filter and cleaned filter box and checked for a leaf or something even sealed somewhat the plastic shield that covers the cabin filter. I really don't want to rip dash apart but it is so annoying
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what could be causing this. The faster I go the higher the pitch sound. It only occurs when pressing the gas pedal. As soon as I let off the gas the noise is gone.
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I have a 2006 Camry (manual transmission) w 165K miles.
Within the last year or so, it has gotten louder, more noticeable at higher speeds. Almost sounds like a hole in the exhaust. However, shifting into lower or higher gears doesn't change the tone of the noise. Taking it out of gear completely doesn't have an effect. However driving faster does. So I'm pretty sure it is drive train related .
Does this sound like a wheel bearing issue?
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I've noticed that I don't get a consistent engine roar from my sound generator when I throttle hardly. I get more of a roar when the engine is cold and I floor it. Any other time I accelerate hard it doesn't sound like my sound generator is working.
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So I started getting this metallic/harmonic whining sound from my GTI's engine a few weeks ago. It was barely noticeable then, but has now gotten louder and more consistent. The sound occurs once the engine has warmed up and can be reproduced by holding the revs constant anywhere above 2k. The sound does not change in pitch with engine speed. It doesn't matter if the car is parked or moving.
I've attached a video... The sound can heard starting at 00:23 and becomes constant after a few seconds. Its hard to hear at first, but if you listen carefully its definitely there.
I have an appointment with the dealer tomorrow and will update with their findings. In the meantime, any clue as to what this could be? I can't really pinpoint where its coming from, seems loudest near where the oil filter is? By the way I'm 100% stock.
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When I am driving at a higher speed and I need to pass someone or accelerate, the engine bogs down. I push the peddle to the floor and nothing. This does not happen all the time but it happens. But when I accelerate from a light or lower speeds there does not seem to be an issue. I recently had the value gaskets replaced because of a small oil leak and it seems this problem began after then. I have taken it back to the shop but the problem does not duplicate itself when they test drive it.
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2001 F150 4x4 harsh shaking. When driving at consistent speeds the truck begins to shutter and shake, begins as a light shake and becomes extremely harsh fast. This is not like a vibration that can be felt, but a really harsh shaking of the entire truck.
The truck continues to shake after taking foot off gas and braking. It will shake harshly even when braking and slowed down to 5mph, but instantly goes away once at a complete stop. Accelerate immediately after coming to a complete stop and it completely goes away and drives normal for a day.
Check Engine light has not come on. Tachometer stays consistent RPM. Shift into neutral does not stop shaking. Only coming to a complete stop ether in drive or neutral does the shaking stop. It happens driving at consistent speeds going 35mph & 65mph, etc. Any thoughts on what the issue could be?
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I found recently that my 04' Prius' engine easily goes higher rev than before (based on engine sound pitch). It happens mainly when cold start, go up hill. After warmed up and on flat road, it goes back to normal. Overall, still in great condition at 211K. MPG stays at 46 on meter when temp is around 45F with 50% highway drive at 100 miles/day. I suspect the serpentine belt slippery or something. What do you think? I think the belt is original. I bought it used at 104K.
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is locking in 4m but is too high, suppose to be ~2200rpm.When I checked with vagcom the speed shown on computer show a speed with 20km/h higher than the real speed (shown at speedometer)
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Recently I switched from Revo software with 440cc injectors to Unitronic with Siemens 630cc injectors. After swapping, the car has developed a hesitation issue. It only happens when driving a consistent speed in one gear, for example going 45 in 5th, the car will feel jumpy and hesitate to accelerate with a seeming loss of power. Replaced spark plugs with new ones and the problem still persists. Problem never happened with old software and injectors.
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Ok so basically, driving it around at 50ish mph or less and my car is fine but once I reach I-95 no problems yet. After about 10 miles at Interstate speed (on my way to work), I happen to notice an odd sound coming from my engine. It almost sounded like as though an airline plane was starting up. I checked for any warning lights going off; nothing. After about a mile I happen to smell something odd coming from my air vents (I don't have ac so I have my windows down) and then I started seeing a lot of white smoke coming from my air vents and the hood. Freaking out like a bat out of Hades, I immediately pulled over, shortly thereafter a heavy amount of white smoke was coming out even more from the air vents and from the hood so I pulled open the hood to let it escape and left the doors away from the interstate open.
I saw smoke coming from the engine coolant top or whatever it's called and it was coming out so fast and hard it was like making a whistling noise almost. I also saw white smoke coming from almost near the engine towards the back. However, whenever I am on a normal road going 55 or less it's fine. My grandfather says it has something to do with the cooling system or coolant or whatever it was. He doesn't know what would cause the problem or how to fix it... 1988 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX ....
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I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue and I bought it used and it has worked great until recently. The issue I have is after 1-2 hours of driving at a consistent speed of 70 MPH it will stop accelerating past 2.5-3 RPMs(x1000). When it started happening, I was able to pull over, turn the car off for 10-15 minutes, and it won't happen again until my next trip.
I can't seem to recreate the issue except after going on a road trip. It's kind of scary when trying to go up hills and when I slow down when I come into smaller towns and get to a stoplight, I stop, wait until the light changes, and when I try and accelerate again it's jumpy and doesn't respond for 3-5 seconds which can be annoying to the person behind me.
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Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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1998 Honda Civic EX. This has been a great car and have got a ton of good miles on it. The problem that I am having now is with the temperature gauge. The measurement is completely all over the place while driving. While moving around town, the gauge shows the temperature VERY hot. As soon as I reach a consistent speed, the temperature drops back to normal (moves very erratically!). The gauge seems to get even hotter while idling. Another issue (may or may not be related) is the heat coming out of the vents is only working while the car is in motion. While stopped, it pumps out cold air. The temperature immediately changes when I get going again. Both problems seem to be getting worse. The car has coolant, and all other levels of fluids are normal.
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When in idle the car is fine, however when revving the engine up to 2500-3000 rpm there is a puffing noise from the exhaust pipe area. What this could be?There is only on puff when reaching 2500 rpm... When I asked mechanic he said "it's because there is a small engine... Its a cheverolet cavalier 2001...
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I have an '09 LS 460 AWD and there is a very unlike Lexus knocking sound at idle to maybe up to 20mph. best way I can describe is to imagine a diesel engine at idle, and dilute it substantially. subtle but clearly there. i read here in CL that could be due to valves or such, but dealer insists it is because of the intentionally designed "oversized fuel pump and fuel injector" and completely normal.
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I am having my trouble with my 06 F150 with the 5.4 V8. I purchased the truck back in the spring and shortly after the truck started misfiring. It was throwing P0306 for cylinder 6 misfire and that was the only code thrown. Seeing as it was out of warranty and right at the 100k mark I replaced all the plugs with Motorcraft plugs, and the plugs that came out were Champion, so it had already been done at least once. This didnt solve my problem at all so I started digging deeper. I replaced the coil pack on the number six cylinder thinking it may have gone bad, but this did not fix my problem either. I had somehow overlooked that the number two cylinder had a Masterpro coil pack that was made in Taiwan or somewhere like that, and after using the Motorcraft coilpack I had pulled from number 6 on cylinder two all my problems went away...until recently.
At the beginning of August my truck started the infamous ticking sound that we all know about. I ignored it for a while, but as I was moving off to college the misifre returned while going down the interstate at around 65-70mph. The truck lost pretty much all power and I coasted off the next exit to see what was going on. After making it off the truck was running perfectly, so I poked on home on back roads at slower speeds to be safe. The next day I took it to the Ford dealership to have them run a full diagnostic scan to determine anything that could possibly be wrong. After sitting in the waiting room for three hours as they searched the guy comes in to let me know they have ran every test they could and nothing was showing up, but the lash adjusters (lifters) on the passenger side of the engine needed replaced as that was what was causing the ticking sound.
Well today I start my truck to come to school and it felt slightly different, but once I accelerated all was fine. Once i left school this was another story though. The CEL was on and the truck was misfiring enough to feel a consistant buck from the engine. I pulled the codes and it is now giving me P0307 and P0316 which are misfire in cylinder 7 and misfire upon startup. What could this be knowing all the plugs have recently been changed and the dealer just inspected the entire engine?
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