Ford - Crownvictoria :: Carburetor Not Working
Nov 6, 2013
I started having trouble that the mechanic identified as the carburetor not working (it was pouring gas into itself). He said that this carburetor was a 'dinosaur' and never worked right from the factory. They told me that they never heard of anyone who had successfully worked on this car's carburetor, after it started having problems. They recommended getting rid of that carburetor & putting on a rebuilt Holley carburetor, which continued to give me problems. Were they just giving me a line so they could charge me more money? Or telling me right?I have another mechanic who after he saw what they did, that the Holley will never work right on this car because this car has a computer module & there is nowhere to plug in that module on the new carburetor.
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This car's windows are not working. 3 of the window motors make a running sound when the levers are pressed, but the window doesn't move. Is this an expensive item to fix? Do you think the window is just off the track? Where is the best place to take it to be fixed?
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Thought I would check and see if it's possible to store a Carburetor. Have a Holley 4160 that I rebuilt and would like to keep as a backup. Thought since the carb has not been installed the gaskets and seals may not be an issue. Other option, swap the Carb on my truck every few months.
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I have gas leaking from the pump diaphragm assembly cover of the motorcraft carb,2BBL,360,75,auto.Is this easily repairable,or is a new carb in my future?
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Last night I decided to see if I couldn't do something about my leaky carburetor in my 1983 ranger. It's a motorcraft 2150 carb. I took it all apart and followed a guide to clean it, then put it all back together and reinstalled it today. Unfortunately my truck won't idle, makes a whiny noise, and acts odd with the accelerator.
I've got a video posted here : 1983 Ranger Carb troubles - YouTube ....
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Would like to replace the 2 1/2" aluminum ported 4bbl spacer down to an inch or so. Finding it difficult locating 'ported' aluminum spacers, however, there are several brands of the 'composite' type?
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I rebuilt a 1963 ford 2B crburetor with manual choke. Put the carburetor on and it runs very rough. Won't go below 800 rpm or it dies and I need to choke it to start. Thought it was a vacumn leak so sprayed WD -40 and no change in idle. So pulled off the carburetor and put on the previous carburetor (with electric choke) and it runs great. I want to use the manual choke to hook up the cable though. I replaced everything in the carb. What do you think it is?
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I have a 74 f250 with a 67 352 and a 2150 carb. I have noticed that after driving the truck for a while and when its nice and hot, if I shut it off I hear a funny "howling" noise coming from the carb. It does it for about 5 seconds, then goes away. I rebuilt the carb and it still makes the noise. Also when I am driving it, when I have the pedal at a certain point, I can hear a lot of vacuum, I have checked for vacuum leaks, and there are none. The other question I have is, the 352 was out of a standard shift truck, mine is an auto, so I have nowhere to hook my tranny kick down rod to. How I can fix that, besides replacing the carb?
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I have a 1994 Automatic Ford Crown Victoria with apx. 120,000 miles (the odometer stopped working about 20k miles ago, what can ya' do).
Recently it has started doing a subtle vibration/shake/shimmy when accelerating from (I believe) 1st to second gear at about 35 mph. It doesn't happen when decelerating, and i think it might happen the same way at around 65 mph...not always though. It isn't a rough vibration, but it lasts for about 3 seconds. it is definitely coming from the engine, it isn't the tires or brakes
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I have a 2006 CVPI. For about a year (ever since I had the trans rebuilt) I have had a issue that ive brought back to the company that did the rebuild about 8 times. Neddless to say I got my money back. Anyways the problem, After driving maybe for an hour and the engine and trans in normal operating temps when I stop at a light or stop sign when its my turn to go I noticed that when the trans shifts into second gear my car will kick into second. There isnt any weird noises but you feel the car kind of kick into second gear. After taking it to about 3 other transmission shops everyone says it feels fine and there are no codes. Only solution is to remove the trans to see whats internally wrong but at the cost of basically rebuilding it again $1300-1400.
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2000 Crown Victoria, 186K miles
I have to park on the street at my house, and it's a decent enough hill. I always park facing down the hill and I'm in the habit of turning the wheels towards the curb. Just recently I was parking and in neutral, easing the car's weight onto the parking brake and I heard a pop of some sort, and now my parking brake is basically non-functional. I don't think I lost any cables as none of them are hanging loose under the car, but I won't know until I get the rear rotors off and can inspect things. I know at least one other CV owner who went to check his parking brakes and the shoe linings had separated from the backing plates, but all of that's not really my question.
As of now I have to park on the street with one of the wheels firmly against the curb to hold the car in place (in this case, driver's front wheel). Am I going to mess up the tire on that wheel by doing this? There are no ill effects to this point, and maybe it's okay if only for some hours at a time and not days/weeks. What do you think?
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01 crown Victoria, ac was recharged but it doesn't blow cold or hot air. When it is turned on, my car would make a very loud vacuum noise, that's embarrassing. The rpms go up, and if I'm at a stop light I have to hold the brake or the car would take off.
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why after 3 or 4 plus days, a 1996 ford crown Vic will not start. have replaced alternator, courtesy of the ford dealer.
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I have a 2000 crown vic, police interceptor..... 1st.. car started idling rough had the codes read gave misfire on 4 . So we had the boots and spark plugs replaced. Car ran fine for like 3 days then engine light came on again.. running rough... code read misfire in 8 so had the coils on 4 and 8 replaced... ran fine for all of 2 weeks. Again engine light came on... now showing a misfire on 7, but car runs fine..??. Anyways I noticed my battery gauge was marking a really low charge... but as soon as I would get on highway it would jump back up to normal...
It did this for a couple weeks, then I noticed the gauge was marking really low car was losing power... I have a new battery and alternator on car already. But still I had them tested; both tested fine... Then car kept stalling at stop signs ans red lights went ahead and exchanged alternator 4since its under warranty anyway. This cause the charge gauge was reading normal.. but car still kept dying... so replaced fuel filter... didn't replaced tps and mass air flow sensors too...but it still keeps dying on me. Now codes are coming up misfires on 4&8! Why does my car keep stalling and what would cause these random misfires especially when these coils have been replaced already???
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About 2 yrs ago there was a slight vibration in the car, it would happen every couple of months and last for about 5 seconds. It has gotten progressively worse and now happens quite often. There is no pattern as to when it will happen, when I first start the car, in park, neutral or driving. The vibration is the same at hwy speeds as it is at idle. I only have 111,000 miles on the car. I have been told it's anything from the torque convertor/transmission to the IMRC.
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I love this car. It's a CNG vehicle and has saved me many hours of sanity in commute traffic. I've only had it for a year. It's past life was a taxi car. It currently have close to 395k miles, and does have a few other issues (no engine light now).
The problem I have now is the front of the car starts to shake when I get the car running somewhere in the 60MPH to 65MPH range. This problem is more announce when I let go of or step the acceleration and it transitions into that speed range. The problem is dampen or less when I'm stepping on the acceleration, inside that speed range.
It's incrementally less when I'm above or below that range (+/- 5mph). The shaking and vibration sounds is almost as close to the sound that's generated if you're running the car's tire on the freeway shoulder's (california) or having a helicopter hover ontop of your car (but faster).
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A few days ago the head lights and all inside lights would flicker and go off for a second or two while I was driving at highway speed. Thee flickering stopped when I slowed down. Yesterday the car would not start at all. The motor is turning over but not catching. Also only the radio work but not the sound system. I put in a new hi-output alternator but the car still will not start. The car has 155,000 miles and generally runs well. How to repair this?
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A while ago, my Vic started making a strange noise when it idled. Sort of sounded like a water buffalo in heat. When you goosed the throttle, or drove it the noise went away, but came back at idle. It seemed to be coming from a hose that attached to the intake plenum, but it went underneath the back of the intake manifold. My mechanic was a bit baffled, so he called a friend at the local Ford dealership who called it the "Hooter" valve and told him how to get at it. The car is fixed, and no longer makes farm animals lovesick, but I still don't know what the thing is or what is does....
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I have a 92 crown vic. And this past weekend I tried to do a oil change but the drain plug was really tight. So I took it to an oil place to see after I messed with it for over two hours. They did get it out half way, but had to put it back in. They suggested that the drain plug or the the pan is stripped, I even tried to use a cheap siphon hose that goes down through the dipstick and it wouldn't go all the way down. So is there another way I can drain my oil without messing up my oil pan and drain plug?
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I'm trying to diagnose the problem with my friend's 1994 crown Vic police interceptor. It dies at stop signs and then won't start back up till after waiting like 5-10 minutes. I asked him if his check engine light is on. He said yes, so I looked up how to retrieve the codes with a jumper wire as I have on older vehicles of my own. I found that information but can't locate the terminal. He said other symptoms are poor fuel economy and sluggish performance. My friend is so busy and pinched for cash he's been driving like this for over a year.
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Ok so basically, driving it around at 50ish mph or less and my car is fine but once I reach I-95 no problems yet. After about 10 miles at Interstate speed (on my way to work), I happen to notice an odd sound coming from my engine. It almost sounded like as though an airline plane was starting up. I checked for any warning lights going off; nothing. After about a mile I happen to smell something odd coming from my air vents (I don't have ac so I have my windows down) and then I started seeing a lot of white smoke coming from my air vents and the hood. Freaking out like a bat out of Hades, I immediately pulled over, shortly thereafter a heavy amount of white smoke was coming out even more from the air vents and from the hood so I pulled open the hood to let it escape and left the doors away from the interstate open.
I saw smoke coming from the engine coolant top or whatever it's called and it was coming out so fast and hard it was like making a whistling noise almost. I also saw white smoke coming from almost near the engine towards the back. However, whenever I am on a normal road going 55 or less it's fine. My grandfather says it has something to do with the cooling system or coolant or whatever it was. He doesn't know what would cause the problem or how to fix it... 1988 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX ....
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