Ford - Crownvictoria :: 2006 - Won't Shift Properly?
May 13, 2013
I have a 2006 CVPI. For about a year (ever since I had the trans rebuilt) I have had a issue that ive brought back to the company that did the rebuild about 8 times. Neddless to say I got my money back. Anyways the problem, After driving maybe for an hour and the engine and trans in normal operating temps when I stop at a light or stop sign when its my turn to go I noticed that when the trans shifts into second gear my car will kick into second. There isnt any weird noises but you feel the car kind of kick into second gear. After taking it to about 3 other transmission shops everyone says it feels fine and there are no codes. Only solution is to remove the trans to see whats internally wrong but at the cost of basically rebuilding it again $1300-1400.
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I have a 1995 Ford Crown Victoria. If I start the car in Park, it will not shift. IF I start the car in neutral, I can shift gears with no problems. In conjunction, the turn signals work well, but I have no brake lights.
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I drive a 2006 Dodge Sprinter, 3500 with dual wheels. When changing from park to drive, the gears would not automatically shift from first to second gear. The engine kept revving, so I stopped the vehicle, and started it again. No problem. I spoke with a retired mechanic (friend of mine's father) and he said we should probably change the transmission fluid. When I called the dealer, he said they could do it but that he also saw problems arise when the fluid was changed on vehicles with high mileage (it has 225,000 miles on it).
Should I go ahead and change the fluid, or not?
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I have a 2006 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor and it will play Cd's but not burned CD. I tried using MP3's and FLAC file types with no luck. How to play a burned CD in a Crown Vic?
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I bought a truck a week ago and finally got it running. I got into the truck put it into drive and nothing happened. It is a 59 2wd with an automatic transmission. All the linkages are moving all the way to the transmission. There is a second arm coming out of the transmission in the same spot where it is hooked up now. Should it be hooked up to something? Is the transmission done for?
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Ok so I just put an egr delete and a new oil cooler in the truck. Everything went pretty well but when I was going for a test drive I'm not building any boost. I can here the turbo whistle like always but there no power and none of my gauges register boost. Also, the transmission is shifting funny I don't know how else to explain it but just not right. Now I don't see/smell any exhaust leaks and can't hear anything too wierd in that department. I checked the intake and the intercooler tubes I think their called and all good there. However, I did break my map sensor post off my intake during the install . So my map tube was just open to the atmosphere I didn't plug it or anything. Could that be the cause of my woes? Is there any thing I can do to alleviate the issues I'm having with the map? Can I just plug it until I fix it? And is there anything else to check on my turbo?
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So as a new owner of a Prius v, I keep seeing what I think are other v's. However upon closer viewing I notice that they are Mazda 5s. So it makes me wonder how close they are in size/styling. As I keep seeing a lot of them.
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I just bought a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3ltr with auto trans and all wheel drive. When I purchased it the speedometer did not work. I bought the VSS gear and installed it and now my transmission does not shift properly. Also I had it to the dealership for an ECU update and they said that their computer could not connect to the ECU.
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I have an old (mid-'90s) Honda Odyssey that has generally worked great. Yesterday, it struggled to get up an icy driveway (since it does not have four-wheel drive) and once at the top seemed to to disengage from fourth gear into neutral, though it was still in fourth. After turning off the car and restarting, it engaged fine.Today the same thing happened on a level, non-icy surface after a few minutes of driving at slow speed. Is it possible to avoid this problem by driving in a lower gear to begin with?Any repairs would likely cost more than the car is worth, but I want to keep driving it -- safely -- as long as possible.
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Okay just got a 1992 honda accord automatic and sometimes when you stop at a light it will downshift to first and take off other times it wont downshift and stay in overdrive on take off...
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My 2003 Dodge Dakota does not shift properly sometimes going into second gear and it only happens in second gear. I have to lift my foot off the accelerator for it to shift into third. If I don't it just screams at a high RPM and sounds as if it is about to blow. It has a hard time making it up a small incline such as an off ramp. Truck will not shift properly when going up grade. Engine will rev at 4500-5000 rpm but will not shift until I slightly release the gas pedal. Truck will also perform multiple hard up shifts whether in cruise control or not in cruise control, going upgrade. Took the truck to the dealer reprogrammed the computer with a "flash update" that was no luck. Not once has the ENGINE LIGHT ever come on.
So a lot of the comments that were presented to me I have done. Here is a list:
Changed govner senors and solenoid. Did not work.
Checked for exhaust leaks and other leaks. No leaks.
Checked all vaccuums. No problems there.
Had engine checked and dyno tested. No problems there.
Had transmission rebuilt. Same problem. (dealer did work)
Had new transmission put in. Same problem. (dealer did work)
Also, sometimes when I put the truck in reverse, it seems to about to stall, but it doesn't. It also does it sometimes when I put the truck in drive it seems that it wants to stall.
I just recently learned that my truck has a Transmission computer module, Transfer case computer module and of course the main computer. Is there a way to test those modules out?
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I have a 99 passat w auto and tip it will only go into drive and reverse, the tip does nothing and it starts in 4th gear from a start. It works in reverse but I can move the shift lever into 1st or any other gear and it does nothing it wont down shift or the tip wont do anything I am at a loss, I heard it could be the TCM or a pressure selonoid in the tranny...
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My brother and father just finished with all of the small issues after throwing in both a "new" engine into the vehicle and a transmission..both have around 80K miles (chassis has around 180K). There were some issues with codes after both were installed, but then everything was diagnosed and fixed, vehicles codes were gone and vehicle was able to be registered, afterall.
Anyways, now the car threw a P0715 code and has issues with shifting. It appears that the Santa Fe is stuck in a single gear (appears to be a higher gear). The car won't shift properly, especially noticed at higher speeds in a main road. Using tiptronic does not seem to make a difference. After the car sits and is taken around the neighborhood, it seems to drive fine, until it is taken out into a main road...I'm guessing once it heats up?
So, what should be looked into? A sensor? Is it maybe because this "new" used trans was swapped in and all of the trans fluid was replaced with new fluid? What could the issue be? I guesss the car's been a headache but they're trying to get it finished to avoid any further codes/issues.
02' Santa Fe 2.7 FWD
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Bought a 2003 golf gti 1.8t as kind of a project. Car had no interior no exhaust and some shifting issues. To fix the shifting issues rather than replacing solenoids I just got a rebuilt valve body. After installation the car still doesn't shift from 1st to second properly and now I don't have reverse. (It's an 09a transmission)
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When backing up in reverse I come to a stop and shift into drive. About 60% of the time it slams into gear (Drive). It feels as if someone rearended me. It's a 2012 Chrysler Town and Country with 40K miles. 2 dealers worked on it, reprogramed the computer and replaced 2 seloniods and the problem is still there. What is wrong but said thats typical on that 6 speed. What to do next?
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My name is Jason and I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with an automatic transmission. It has trouble shifting. I have to drop it down from D into 2 and then back into D to get it to shift out of second gear most of the time. If I have to stop ten times in a trip I have to manually shift it about seven or eight of those times. On top of that, sometimes while I'm driving it will slip into Neutral but it'll still be in the D position. This just started and has only happened a few times so far. My transmission fluid levels are fine. I'm trying to see if there is any other solution besides rebuilding or replacing my transmission.
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So, I have a 2004 Toyota Matrix with about 104K miles on it, regular oil service and general maintenance. A few weeks back, my check engine light came on, took it in for diagnosis. The code was for the TCC, indicating a recent failure to shift properly. I've noticed no unusual behavior before or since the light came on, but I'm told that this is an indication of a failing transmission. My local transmission repair shop took it for a drive and said that this was probably the case as well. Estimates for a rebuild run in the 2200-2400 range. That said, I've also seen that it could be that I just need new transmission fluid. I had the fluid replaced, again, no noticeable shifting problems or unusual car behavior.
I'm wondering if
a) I should just drive and maintain the car as usual and if the light returns, then consider a rebuild or
b) begin to make preparations to get rid of the vehicle.
Bluebook estimates this in the 3-3500 range, so I'd assume it's sale value would be quite a bit less (perhaps less than the cost of a rebuild) for obvious reasons.
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I have an 06 f250 6.0. When I bought it a few weeks ago I turn the key on and let the glow plugs warm up and start the truck it would start easily. Now it seems like it's taking longer to start . The temperature are between 50 and 80 degrees. I changed the fuel filters and it's still taking to long to start.
2nd I noticed today that when my truck is at idle the Tachometer is at 0 and when I'm driving 60-70 MPh it goes up to 900 or maybe 1200. It seems to be running fine no loss of power that I can tell. What could be causing the long crank time and my Tachometer problems.
the glow plugs and injectors are new I don't remember the brand and the fuel filters are brand new Motorcraft.
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I started having trouble that the mechanic identified as the carburetor not working (it was pouring gas into itself). He said that this carburetor was a 'dinosaur' and never worked right from the factory. They told me that they never heard of anyone who had successfully worked on this car's carburetor, after it started having problems. They recommended getting rid of that carburetor & putting on a rebuilt Holley carburetor, which continued to give me problems. Were they just giving me a line so they could charge me more money? Or telling me right?I have another mechanic who after he saw what they did, that the Holley will never work right on this car because this car has a computer module & there is nowhere to plug in that module on the new carburetor.
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I have a 1994 Automatic Ford Crown Victoria with apx. 120,000 miles (the odometer stopped working about 20k miles ago, what can ya' do).
Recently it has started doing a subtle vibration/shake/shimmy when accelerating from (I believe) 1st to second gear at about 35 mph. It doesn't happen when decelerating, and i think it might happen the same way at around 65 mph...not always though. It isn't a rough vibration, but it lasts for about 3 seconds. it is definitely coming from the engine, it isn't the tires or brakes
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2000 Crown Victoria, 186K miles
I have to park on the street at my house, and it's a decent enough hill. I always park facing down the hill and I'm in the habit of turning the wheels towards the curb. Just recently I was parking and in neutral, easing the car's weight onto the parking brake and I heard a pop of some sort, and now my parking brake is basically non-functional. I don't think I lost any cables as none of them are hanging loose under the car, but I won't know until I get the rear rotors off and can inspect things. I know at least one other CV owner who went to check his parking brakes and the shoe linings had separated from the backing plates, but all of that's not really my question.
As of now I have to park on the street with one of the wheels firmly against the curb to hold the car in place (in this case, driver's front wheel). Am I going to mess up the tire on that wheel by doing this? There are no ill effects to this point, and maybe it's okay if only for some hours at a time and not days/weeks. What do you think?
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