Ford - Crownvictoria :: 2000 - Parking Brake Is Non-functional?
Oct 2, 2011
2000 Crown Victoria, 186K miles
I have to park on the street at my house, and it's a decent enough hill. I always park facing down the hill and I'm in the habit of turning the wheels towards the curb. Just recently I was parking and in neutral, easing the car's weight onto the parking brake and I heard a pop of some sort, and now my parking brake is basically non-functional. I don't think I lost any cables as none of them are hanging loose under the car, but I won't know until I get the rear rotors off and can inspect things. I know at least one other CV owner who went to check his parking brakes and the shoe linings had separated from the backing plates, but all of that's not really my question.
As of now I have to park on the street with one of the wheels firmly against the curb to hold the car in place (in this case, driver's front wheel). Am I going to mess up the tire on that wheel by doing this? There are no ill effects to this point, and maybe it's okay if only for some hours at a time and not days/weeks. What do you think?
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So my 2000 Ex started showing the parking brake light as if the parking brake was on...however it is not. How, or what do I need to do to fix it?
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I bought 2000 Ranger with rear half of the frame cut and welded.
The mechanics who did this did terrible job of putting things where they belong. I rerouted wiring harness and rebuilt EVAP lines, but cannot figure out what is the correct route for parking brake cable.
Currently some part of the parking brake cable is sitting on the leaf spring. It may also be missing some mounting brackets or clips. Looking for a picture or diagram showing parking brake cable routing?
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I'm having a hard time trying to figure out to detach the cable from the pedal assembly. The place where the cable attaches is so hidden by various plates, pawls and springs that there is no access. Also the whole assembly is put together with rivets so there's no easy way of taking it apart. Is there some trick to getting the cable out?
Also, I need to find out exactly where the cable goes through the floor pan. I'm in the process of fixing the rust on this. My 2000 XLT 4x4 and the floor pan and rockers were so rusted that there was no evidence of where the cable went through the floor pan! I assume it's supposed to go through the channel right next to the inner rocker but where exactly? A simple measurement from the back edge of the A-pillar is all I need.
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I have a 2000 crown vic, police interceptor..... 1st.. car started idling rough had the codes read gave misfire on 4 . So we had the boots and spark plugs replaced. Car ran fine for like 3 days then engine light came on again.. running rough... code read misfire in 8 so had the coils on 4 and 8 replaced... ran fine for all of 2 weeks. Again engine light came on... now showing a misfire on 7, but car runs fine..??. Anyways I noticed my battery gauge was marking a really low charge... but as soon as I would get on highway it would jump back up to normal...
It did this for a couple weeks, then I noticed the gauge was marking really low car was losing power... I have a new battery and alternator on car already. But still I had them tested; both tested fine... Then car kept stalling at stop signs ans red lights went ahead and exchanged alternator 4since its under warranty anyway. This cause the charge gauge was reading normal.. but car still kept dying... so replaced fuel filter... didn't replaced tps and mass air flow sensors too...but it still keeps dying on me. Now codes are coming up misfires on 4&8! Why does my car keep stalling and what would cause these random misfires especially when these coils have been replaced already???
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I have a 2000 F350 4X4 with a V10 under the hood and a 5 speed manual transmission. It has a heavy western hauler bed, and a dual tired rearend. The truck has disc brakes all the way around that work great. I bought the truck used and immediately replaced all the disc brake pads as well as the seperate parking brake shoes and I had the parking brake drums turned. My problem is the parking brake shoes won't hold the truck at all and never have even when they were new. The parking brake shoes seem very small to me for a truck this size and weight. I have adjusted them as tight as I can with out causing them to drag when they are released. Is this a common problem for this type of parking brake on this type of truck? Is there something I am over looking or need to do to perhaps improve the parking brake? Would it be possible to splice some sort of "locking" valve into the brake lines going to the disc brakes to perhaps hold them engaged when I park the truck? I have a good idea how air brakes work, so I suppose this "locking" valve would work like that except basically opposite of a locking air brake valve, if that makes any sense.
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Had my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
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I recently had my '02 Accent serviced. When I picked it up, the mechanic had set the parking brake with about 15,000 lbs of force. Once I got it released, I noticed that the red parking brake dash indicator light won't go off while the car is running.
I have verified the brakes are free, and have tried wiggling the brake handle.
Is there a switch somewhere that could be bad? For the record, I do most minor maintenance myself, and have 214,000 trouble-free miles on my 1.5L SOHC Accent.
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The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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I have a 2004 Elantra GLS. My left rear brake was hanging (wheel was very hot to the touch after driving, while other wheels were not), so I had a friend check the brake pads. We decided to replace the pads and rotors. While doing so, the parking brake seemed stuck in the on position, so I opted to have him disconnect it completely until I could afford to replace it. I had used it for the first time about 2 weeks before I noticed the hot brake problem, so we figured that must have been why the brake was hanging.
My friend replaced the rotors and pads, put some penetrant/lubricant on the piston of the caliper and reassembled the brakes. He did use the special tool to spin the caliper in when putting the pads on, however he didn't know that was necessary and tried to force them in with a C-clamp first.
Now, I seem to have two problems:
1. The left rear brake still hangs sometimes. I will drive the car and when I park it I can feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel. It is extremely hot, so I know the brake is hanging (even with the parking brake disconnected). What is the problem here? Is the caliper bad? Would replacing the caliper solve the problem? Does the parking brake have to be connected to stop the caliper from hanging up?
2. My second problem is the pulsating of the brakes. I am afraid the rotor is warped because of the heat, or maybe he didn't clean everything well enough before he put the new rotor on. How can I figure out what the problem is? Is there a way to check a rotor to see if it is warped? Could there be another reason I feel the pulsating brakes? By the way, the brake fluid is full.
If the caliper needs to be replaced and I can leave the parking brake disconnected, are there any special instructions my friend should know about before working on this? He does work on a lot of cars and rebuilds cars to sell, so he is pretty knowledgeable. I think the only thing he didn't know about was rotating the piston. I would like to provide him with detailed instructions if necessary.
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The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
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Gen 5.5 (2006 LE (57K miles), Rear brake drums and parking brake.
I want to get my parking brake lubricated and rear drums cleaned and adjusted. Is is difficult to lubricate the parking brake?
I plan on getting this done with a Mobile One oil change at a local garage.
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I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
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What is the functional difference between gear sets?
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I've been having a problem lately where I'm driving down the road and the brake light comes on and starts binging. I stop push the parking brake and release it a few times, then the light goes out and I'm on my way. Sometimes when I first release it the light doesn't extinguish and sometimes it is never on. I'm guessing there is a switch somewhere for the parking brake that isn't working so great. Is it around the pedal or somewhere in the brakes themselves? Is this a typical problem?
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When I set the parking brake last night, there was a loud pop and the pedal suddenly went soft to the floor and would not spring back when I pulled the release. The pedal doesn't spring back up when I pull the release lever, but I was able to pull it back up by hand to get the dash light to go out. That works, but without the tension from the brake cable the pedal works back down and the dash light comes on.
When I got out of the driver's seat, there was a cable laying on the ground right under the front door. The cable snapped right in front of a metal cable joiner. What is involved in fixing this?
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Bought the 2011 F150 Lariat used, no window sticker shows online, got a build printout from the Ford parts man. According to the build, it says "with remote srart".
Got one key and separate fob with the truck....just a black key, not the remote key. Had a second black key made at dealers expense and kept one remote from the trade in. All works well but.....Would like to have the remote start functional.
Dealer says buy the key, $140, plus cut and program. Lock shop says $190 for it all.
My question is if I buy the key and have it cut, can I program it properly in the truck....including remote start.....since I have two regular coded keys?
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1997 F150 - Getting an airbag code 33. PAD light is still functional. Some googling suggests a sensor in the passenger seat belt but I think mine is too old for that.
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I started having trouble that the mechanic identified as the carburetor not working (it was pouring gas into itself). He said that this carburetor was a 'dinosaur' and never worked right from the factory. They told me that they never heard of anyone who had successfully worked on this car's carburetor, after it started having problems. They recommended getting rid of that carburetor & putting on a rebuilt Holley carburetor, which continued to give me problems. Were they just giving me a line so they could charge me more money? Or telling me right?I have another mechanic who after he saw what they did, that the Holley will never work right on this car because this car has a computer module & there is nowhere to plug in that module on the new carburetor.
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My buddy has 2005 Ford Ranger, 4.0L V6, manual with 4WD. It cranks fine, shifts through gears, but it will not move. We're thinking something to do with the parking brake, but I don't have much knowledge about brake systems. A cursory inspection showed a cable without much rust, some rust on the rear drum brakes, and around the mounting where the brake cable runs into the brake drum. I can pull downward on the cable about three inches, so it doesn't seem like the cable is pulled too taut. The pressure on the brake pedal feels about normal.
(edit: something sort of important I forgot to mention, which is why I don't think it's the transmission. In neutral, we cannot push the truck. When pushing from the rear, it will rock back and forth a few inches. When pushing from the front, the truck will not budge at all with two guys pushing on it.)
What sorts of tests can we do to pin down where the problem lies? If it is the parking brake, how can we loosen it up enough to get the truck moving to a shop (or at least to the garage where we can get to the brake shoes)?
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