Ford - Crownvictoria :: 1994 - Shimmies When Accelerating At 35 Mph
Jul 14, 2015
I have a 1994 Automatic Ford Crown Victoria with apx. 120,000 miles (the odometer stopped working about 20k miles ago, what can ya' do).
Recently it has started doing a subtle vibration/shake/shimmy when accelerating from (I believe) 1st to second gear at about 35 mph. It doesn't happen when decelerating, and i think it might happen the same way at around 65 mph...not always though. It isn't a rough vibration, but it lasts for about 3 seconds. it is definitely coming from the engine, it isn't the tires or brakes
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I'm trying to diagnose the problem with my friend's 1994 crown Vic police interceptor. It dies at stop signs and then won't start back up till after waiting like 5-10 minutes. I asked him if his check engine light is on. He said yes, so I looked up how to retrieve the codes with a jumper wire as I have on older vehicles of my own. I found that information but can't locate the terminal. He said other symptoms are poor fuel economy and sluggish performance. My friend is so busy and pinched for cash he's been driving like this for over a year.
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My 1994 Ford Ranger, V6, 4 L, 4 wheel drive, 161k miles, standard(stick) has been lurching while accelerating, and going up an incline even without load. It seems to lurch more if the RPMs are under 3K. But now, its starting to lurch even at or a little above 3k RPMs I have replaced the fuel filter,cleaned the air filter, used Heat thinking it was water in the tank, changed my plugs and wires and it didn't fix the problem. Im curious If I cracked a plug while putting it in or that a plug isn't connected all the way. But if it's not that, what could be causing this issue. Im nervous that if not fixed, it will break something.
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I have a 2004 f 150 heritage 4.6 liter triton supercab long bed and the steering shimmies real bad. When sitting at a stop light you slightly turn the steering wheel and its like the wheel fires back the opposite way when turning at highway speeds you cant hold the wheel from shaking its scary...
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My 1996 Ford F350 front end shakes like crazy when I turn right at speeds greater than 40 mph. It does not shake when turning left. To stop the shake I slow down past 25 mph and speed back up after I have straightened the truck out. What is going on?
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I have a 1994 V6 Chevrolet Camaro with ~197K miles. Recently I have noticed that after starting the engine it idles rougher than normal and also as I accelerate, especially between 45 and 65 mph. Several things have just been replaced and/or fixed: spark plugs, spark plug cables, oil, coil packs, water pump, & thermostat. I regularly use premium gasoline and when for some reason a lower octane is used I add an octane booster. Since this problem arose I tried a fuel system cleaner; it hasn't worked thus far. The last time something like this happened, I took my Camaro to a trusted repair shop and when being diagnosed its' cylinder chambers and many different lines flooded with fuel. After replacing the fuel regulator my car returned to normal.
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1994 olds 88 royale with 3.8 sometimes hesitates or "bumps" when accelerating. sometimes it seems like the tranny is slipping, but other times it seems to feel like poor firing or slight misfire with hesitation. when at highway speeds of +50 it runs fine but occasionally bumps or seems sluggish if i rapid accelerate or speed up to pass. do i have a tranny problem or poor performance or emissions problem.
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1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 100,000 miles:
Driving out to see my BF this afternoon I noticed when I accelerated it hesitated a bit. I didn't think anything of it so I let it go. Driving home was another story. I was about 5 miles from home coming up to a red light and I started to brake, the light turned green and I hit the accelerator and I got no juice, I got across the highway and started to brake and the brakes locked up, the steering wheel locked up and then I lost all power. I got the Jeep to stop (right at the exit to a train station ) I tried to turn it back on and got no juice. I just got a new battery about 3 weeks ago. I called 911 since I was stuck in the middle of the road right outside the railroad station. Officer asked me to try to crank the engine again, asked if I had gas (have 1/2 tank) and then got me pushed into a spot until I can get a tow to my house in the morning.
The car has been fine, I never put "off" gas in, try not to let the gas get below half a tank.
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My son has a 1994 Toyota Pick Up, and it suddenly developed a rattle noise, but only when he is accelerating. I suggested he check for loose heat shields, or a broken engine mount, fan rubbing on radiator housing, but all of this is good. He had a new timing chain put in 30,000 miles ago, and a new clutch. It has 167,000 miles on it. The oil does not have flakes or coolant. It does not make the noise when not in gear and accelerating. Could it be u-joints? He said is sounds like it is coming from the Lft Front, not the undercarriage. Fuel injected. does not overheat, or lug, or lack power.
2wd. 5sd tranny.
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car shimmies on highway at 60 mph or higher. Can feel it in steering wheel. Could it be a wheel balance problem?
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I have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
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Under load, the car shimmies back and forth. Left to right. But only under load. It will even do it in 5th gear at 1500 rpm. The problem goes away when foot off the gas, or in neutral.
Already did a drivers side axle, passenger side axle, and dog bone mount.
I removed the intake to inspect the transmission mount and this is what I found below. Should it be able to wiggle this much? I imagine the mount is original to the car. Which has 156,000 on it currently.
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Here's my question, my 2010 Honda Van, with 47,000 miles, shimmies when I apply the brakes at 60-65mph. No other time. When I apply the brakes at that speed (very gently, I might add), the van feels like the front end is bouncing around. It doesn't do this at any other speed.
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What is causing this. I replaced ball joints & tie rod ends.
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I started having trouble that the mechanic identified as the carburetor not working (it was pouring gas into itself). He said that this carburetor was a 'dinosaur' and never worked right from the factory. They told me that they never heard of anyone who had successfully worked on this car's carburetor, after it started having problems. They recommended getting rid of that carburetor & putting on a rebuilt Holley carburetor, which continued to give me problems. Were they just giving me a line so they could charge me more money? Or telling me right?I have another mechanic who after he saw what they did, that the Holley will never work right on this car because this car has a computer module & there is nowhere to plug in that module on the new carburetor.
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I have a 2006 CVPI. For about a year (ever since I had the trans rebuilt) I have had a issue that ive brought back to the company that did the rebuild about 8 times. Neddless to say I got my money back. Anyways the problem, After driving maybe for an hour and the engine and trans in normal operating temps when I stop at a light or stop sign when its my turn to go I noticed that when the trans shifts into second gear my car will kick into second. There isnt any weird noises but you feel the car kind of kick into second gear. After taking it to about 3 other transmission shops everyone says it feels fine and there are no codes. Only solution is to remove the trans to see whats internally wrong but at the cost of basically rebuilding it again $1300-1400.
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2000 Crown Victoria, 186K miles
I have to park on the street at my house, and it's a decent enough hill. I always park facing down the hill and I'm in the habit of turning the wheels towards the curb. Just recently I was parking and in neutral, easing the car's weight onto the parking brake and I heard a pop of some sort, and now my parking brake is basically non-functional. I don't think I lost any cables as none of them are hanging loose under the car, but I won't know until I get the rear rotors off and can inspect things. I know at least one other CV owner who went to check his parking brakes and the shoe linings had separated from the backing plates, but all of that's not really my question.
As of now I have to park on the street with one of the wheels firmly against the curb to hold the car in place (in this case, driver's front wheel). Am I going to mess up the tire on that wheel by doing this? There are no ill effects to this point, and maybe it's okay if only for some hours at a time and not days/weeks. What do you think?
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01 crown Victoria, ac was recharged but it doesn't blow cold or hot air. When it is turned on, my car would make a very loud vacuum noise, that's embarrassing. The rpms go up, and if I'm at a stop light I have to hold the brake or the car would take off.
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why after 3 or 4 plus days, a 1996 ford crown Vic will not start. have replaced alternator, courtesy of the ford dealer.
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This car's windows are not working. 3 of the window motors make a running sound when the levers are pressed, but the window doesn't move. Is this an expensive item to fix? Do you think the window is just off the track? Where is the best place to take it to be fixed?
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I have a 2000 crown vic, police interceptor..... 1st.. car started idling rough had the codes read gave misfire on 4 . So we had the boots and spark plugs replaced. Car ran fine for like 3 days then engine light came on again.. running rough... code read misfire in 8 so had the coils on 4 and 8 replaced... ran fine for all of 2 weeks. Again engine light came on... now showing a misfire on 7, but car runs fine..??. Anyways I noticed my battery gauge was marking a really low charge... but as soon as I would get on highway it would jump back up to normal...
It did this for a couple weeks, then I noticed the gauge was marking really low car was losing power... I have a new battery and alternator on car already. But still I had them tested; both tested fine... Then car kept stalling at stop signs ans red lights went ahead and exchanged alternator 4since its under warranty anyway. This cause the charge gauge was reading normal.. but car still kept dying... so replaced fuel filter... didn't replaced tps and mass air flow sensors too...but it still keeps dying on me. Now codes are coming up misfires on 4&8! Why does my car keep stalling and what would cause these random misfires especially when these coils have been replaced already???
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