Ford - Crownvictoria :: 1992 - How To Do Oil Change Without Damaging Drain Plug
Oct 28, 2011
I have a 92 crown vic. And this past weekend I tried to do a oil change but the drain plug was really tight. So I took it to an oil place to see after I messed with it for over two hours. They did get it out half way, but had to put it back in. They suggested that the drain plug or the the pan is stripped, I even tried to use a cheap siphon hose that goes down through the dipstick and it wouldn't go all the way down. So is there another way I can drain my oil without messing up my oil pan and drain plug?
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I have an 2011 f350 6.7 diesel. The glow plug ruptured causing damage to the chambers. I recently bought a new 2014 6.7 diesel engine had this motor installed. When I received the truck back it shifts 1,2, 3 gear and jumps to 6.
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Ford Escape 6 cylinder - 100,00 miles. want to flush and change the coolant. Cannot unscrew the engine block drain plug using a 14 mm allen hex bit. Afraid of damaging the block, maybe cracking it. I tried turning the plug with my 1/2" torque wrench up to 130 ft. lbs. torque and it would not budge. Am afraid to use more or to put a cheater on the torque wrench. If something goes wrong the engine becomes scrap. What's the solution?
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I tried a steel with rubber insert washer, but it still leaks. I might have overtightened or something. It seemed good for a while. Who has a solution for this leak?
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Gonna change my oil in a hour or so and I was wondering what the torque spec is for the oil drain plug.
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I broke my radiator drain plug got a replacement but how does the stock one come out? Is there a clip or something?
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I am trying to diagnose a problem that a friend is having with their '92 Prizm (which is really a rebadged Corolla). It started when they went out to drive it one day and the battery was dead. So I checked it out, and it seemed like it had a dead cell. Bought a new battery and put it in, and everything seemed fine for a few weeks.
Then, the same thing happens. I take another look and notice that the positive battery terminal is very badly corroded. I replaced it with a new one and cleaned the negative terminal as well for good measure. I jump start the car, everything seems fine again for a few weeks.
This time, the car stalls out as they are leaving a parking lot. As in, they had driven somewhere with no problems, and then they started the engine again, and it died as they were moving at parking lot speed. So now I start thinking maybe it is the alternator or voltage regulator (I believe the regulator is inside the alternator on these, right?). I took the alternator to Autozone, and they tested it and said it was fine.
After that, I checked all the fusible links and fuses, all were fine. I checked the ground strap from the battery to chassis and engine to chassis, and they look fine as well. I have run out of obvious things to check.
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My fuel bowel drain valve is leaking again. I plan to do the hutch mod in the next month or so. Have the kit already. So I can't do the fuel bowel delete yet. it seems one of the mount holes for the drain Valve is stripped. The top rh screw won't snug up. I swapped out the orings and it still leaks. I'm sure it's from that screw. So I'm thinking about a flange bolt and an oring from the inside of the fuel bowel. It's going to be a temporary fix.
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any generic fits for replacement trans drain plug - 2008 f-350 V-10?
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So I have the oil filter out and can't get the drain plug off the pan. I tried the 034motorsports dogbone insert but I couldn't get that bolt loose either. Mainly looking for tips on the drain plug. Even when I put extra leverage on the ratchet if won't budge.
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Here is what's going on. A few days ago I noticed my oil pressure gauge drop and come back up as I was shifting from reverse to drive. Then a few days later on my way home from work I noticed that when the truck was warmed up and I was stopped at idle the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero and the oil pressure light would come on.. Once I gave it throttle the pressure gauge would go back to normal. After researching for the night the next morning I started the truck cold (around 35 degrees) and watched the oil pressure gauge. It was fine until the temperature came up then once I hit the brake to stop the high idle the gauge dropped to 0 and the oil pressure light came on. If I gave it any throttle the oil pressure would come up to normal but soon as I let off the pressure would drop off again.
I drained the oil, removed the oil cooler, and checked the oil pressure regulator to find it in normal operating condition. My new orings and gaskets won't be here until Monday so I cleaned up for the day. When picking up the oil drain plug I noticed quite a bit of metal shavings on it. I cut open the oil filter and found more shavings in it. Not a bunch but a few in every opening. I have read about a lot of issues where piston cooling jets fall off and cause my issues. I tried hitting the oil pan with a dead blow hammer and listening for the jet but don't hear it. This is the first time I have changed the oil since buying the truck and am wondering if it was found the last time the oil was changed and the reason for them selling the truck. I'm going to put a bore scope through the oil drain plug today and look for the piston cooling jets or anything not normal. Then when the oil cooler gaskets get here I plan to install them and a mechanical oil pressure gauge. To see what the pressure really is.
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I am currently doing my injectors. Just a quick question. I was trying to get the fuel rail drain plug out but it stripped, actually not on the driver side stripped. I know there is the drain plug on the back of the cylinder. If I drain that and turn the crank over by hand will that drain all the oil and fuel that has drained into the cylinder? I'm really not trying to bend a rod when I turn this thing over. It's A 2001 7.3
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I had my 10k service done at the dealership earlier this year, currently at 16.5K miles. My GTI was parked at my parents' garage for a week while I was away for travel. When I returned and went to move my car, I noticed a puddle of oil under the GTI. Since it was a sunday, there were no dealership service departments open, so I went to a quick change oil place and they told me that there is a leak at the drain plug. The tech noticed the oil was low, drained the oil and replaced the drain plug, and when they filled the oil, it immediately started leaking at the drain plug. They added teflon tape to temporarily work with the leak. I will be scheduling a service appointment at the dealer I had my 10k service done.
Have a MK6 and experienced a leak at the drain plug? Could this leak be due to the dealership service tech over tightening the drain plug at my 10k service? The quick oil change place did note that I came in with a leak from the drain plug, in case the dealership tries to blame the oil change place for the leak.
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I did an engine swap for a junkyard motor my 4.0 ohv had a very bad rod bearing so I got one from the junkyard with 117,000,or so they say.Anyhow, after its all said and done it runs perfect except the temperature gauge seems to not get as high up on the gauge as before after sufficient driving(it used to run about middle of the gauge) it drops low at idle then goes up and stays up then goes down.it still has good heat, doesn't seem as good as before tho.I changed the thermostat also.
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Doing the oil change today and I'd like to know where the oil drain plug is. I have the skid plate off but I'm not 100% sure on the plug location.
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I have around 127 miles on my car and was using it as a daily for sometime for work. Due to this, oil changes were done by Kauffman Tire, work paid. Now that I am in a different role my car is not my daily any longer and I tired to change my own oil. My oil filter cap drain plug is hollowed out! I couldn't get it out at all with the 6mm Allen. I thought I would be able to take the filter off from the inside. I soon found out I can't do that. Am I stuck buying a new filter cap and plug from the dealer? Any way to get the filter off without the drain plug?
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What are the correct torque settings for oil drain plug, oil filter and spark plugs on a 2.0 FSI engine?
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I changed my oil for the first time last weekend and all went well, except that i could not remove the washer from the drain plug. I got a new one from the parts counter along with a filter. the new washer definitely had a larger diameter than the one that was on the plug. I re-used the washer on the plug and re-checked things tonight. no leaks - so i should be OK. Maybe I'll just pick up a new drain plug next time...
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I have a 1993 Isuzu Trooper. I put too much oil in the other day, about half a quart, and wanted to drain it out of the bottom. I loosened the drain plug like normal and it wouldn't come out at all, just spun in the same place. Tried retightening the plug and it wouldn't tighten either. It was tight when I started. It would get tight for a second and then get loose again, feeling like a stripped thread. Oil is leaking out from around the plug. I cannot twist the plug with my fingers, so its not super loose but it's loose enough to leak oil. Is this a easy fix for an oversized plug or will the entire oil pan have to be replaced?
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Where is the coolant drain plug on the engine block? Have the haynes book and still can't figure it out.
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Where is the radiator drain plug located on a 4 cylinder Camry?
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