Ford - Contour :: 1999 - Jerks At Specific Speeds 30 MPH And Up
Aug 14, 2012
Car started to jerk when 30mph and up. I changed the fuel filter and oil. Car was ok for a couple of days, however it started to make lound sounds, needing a muffler. i took it to the shop and it needed a flex pipe. All was well for a day, than the car had trouble staying started. It would drive fine, but when you are stationary at a light or stop sign the car wanted to stop. Took it to the shop and the guy said it need a pvc pipe/hose.
The guy told me that the pipe had rotted and it was at the back end of the engine. Car was good for several days, however it now started back jerking at 30mph and up. It will not do it all the time but sometime. It's like the cruise control is going on off. You can step on the gas, but the car will not go any faster, 'just stay the same speed.' When speed is drop it will be ok, but will jerk for a period of time and then stop.
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Mostly occurs at high speeds and climbing hills. Could it be a transmission problem? Or a fuel pump?
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I have a 99 contour svt and every once in a while the hazard lights will flash even while I'm driving.
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I was driving the car yesterday and was getting on the highway ramp and stepped on the gas and car went crazy. It started to accelerate and decelerate by itself. I had no control of the car whatsoever. When driving at 0 to 40mph no problem so far, but anything over this car will jerk, like it's changing gears by itself, 'going fast and slow.'What is this? Do I need a fuel filter, or plugs or what? I don't know when the last time I changed anything the car mileage is 135,000
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Almost everytime I drive the car for more than 2 consecutive it acts as if it drops a cylinder..running rough. The next day it will run fine until 2 hours go by...and so on. I have changed plugs wires and coil pack.... 4 cylinder .. automatic
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I have a 99 Ford Contour that sporadically refuses to start. The engine will turn over (is that the right term?), but it won't "catch," for lack of a better way to put it. It seems to happen more frequently when the gas gauge is at 1/4 of a tank or below. A dealership told me it was the fuel pump need repair (more than the car is worth), but a second opinion from an independent garage says it might not be the fuel pump.
(Though they don't know what is causing the issue because, of course, it never behaves the same when the mechanic drives it). The second issue, which may or may not be related, is the vibration in the car. It happens only if I turn on the AC or heat. And I do mean shake - it's very noticeable and loud. The motor mount has been checked and that's not the issue.
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,the symptom that I'm wondering about is that when the truck is cruising at different high speeds like 65 or 75 it starts to jerk/jolt, if I accelerate it goes away, or if I let off the accelerator.
Once I settle on a different cruising speed it does it again. There is no smoke out the exhaust pipe, it does not loses any power, I look at the RPM's and they don't move when the jerking/jolting starts. Truck runs fine except for this issue.
I do get the P0404 and P0405 codes which are for the EGR valve and the sensor. By the way **is there an EGR SENSOR** anywhere on this engine, I seen some posts where people refer to it as the EBP Sensor, is this correct? I cleaned the EGR valve, but it did not do anything to fix the issue. I'm thinking I damaged the valve when I cleaned it, but I would like to verify that this symptom could be the EGR valve before I buy a new one.
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I just bought a 2000 F250 5.4 gas. I have some minor issues that I will be trying to fix. This is my first full size truck and I bought it to pull a trailer once in a while. How can I find the axle ratio for this specific truck? Is it written on the truck somewhere?
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2010 Toyota Camry xle v6. What is more accurate, miles to empty or the needle gauge. When I use certain brands of gas I notice that the car jerks when driving at all speeds. It's just a slight jerk nothing serious. The brand is Kwik trip gas. I find the the car runs best on 93 octane bp, Mobil, shell, or Cenex.
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We have an '03 Santa Fe (2.4L). We are the original owners.
About 18 months ago, one of our Ignition Coils cracked and caused a misfire when then engine was under load. I replaced the coil, wires, and plugs myself at that time.
Since that time, we have experienced intermittent engine jerking while at highway speeds. There does not seem to be any pattern, and it does not happen every time we drive it.
I took it to the dealer who diagnosed a valve cover leak. They replaced the gasket, one ignition coil, wires and plugs. The problem still happened intermittently after that. I brought it back to the dealer, who diagnosed a valve guide/seat leak. Oil is getting into the cylinder and fouling the plug they say.
I could not afford the fix (and was very dissatisfied by the service I received) so the dealer recommended to change the plugs every 3 - 5K miles to get me through. I was told this on 03/31/09 (125695 miles). I replaced the plugs, wires, and BOTH coils again at that time.
Last week @ 130K miles the engine jerked again. I replaced all four plugs again Sunday morning, but the ones that I pulled were NOT look oil fouled. I showed them to a mechanic friend and the guy at the auto parts store. Both agreed that the spark plugs looked almost new. Sunday evening, while driving on the freeway, the car jerked again!
Since this happened again SO soon after changing the plugs, I really have a hard time believing the valve guide diagnosis. Some possibilities I have seen/heard:
- Crank position sensor or camshaft sensor (This was replaced at 78K miles along with the all of the belts)
- Clogged fuel filter
- Bad O2 sensor
- Vacuum leak from the hose that is between the throttle body and the engine casing
- The dealer's valve seat suggestion
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Purchased this car new. 2008 GLS w/ V6 2.7L engine. Wife's car, so I rarely drive it. She's complained for a month about an intermittent issue with the jar "jerking", usually during slow speeds.
I felt it for the first time myself. Was halfway through a pretty tight curve at around 20 MPH, starting to slowly accelerate when I felt a definitive lurch. might have been momentary loss of acceleration, or transmission. Not sure which. No CEL thrown.
I did see another thread mentioning a 2007 with a similar issue, but that person had codes thrown that pointed to a Throttle position sensor and a need to reflash a transmission. Think I'm seeing the same situation, or would this be different ? Absent any CEL, I'm sure the dealer will not be able to find it....
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I have a 1998 Ford Contour se 2.0. The alternator went out in the beginning of January. Had it replaced, got it back it ran for a couple of days and it just died on me and wouldn't start. So back to the shop it went, fuel filter was clogged so they changed it, and I got it back last Friday. It ran until Saturday morning and as I was driving down the road it just died!! Just like that...died. Got it to run for a few seconds...it would die.
Finally got it back home and now it won't start. It will turn over, but won't start. If it does start it won't stay running longer than 2 or 3 seconds. I've had the fuel pump, fuel injectors, and spark plugs checked. Everything is fine. Oh and yes, it has 3/4 of a tank of gas in it. What is wrong with this thing?? It also has around 151,000 miles on it.
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1996 Ford Contour 4cy. Runs great, except once in a while driving down the highway, it seems to go out of gear and then back in. Shakes violently. Have to pull over. Never know when it will happen. Once/twice a month maybe. Always when it is warm. Never in a Michigan winter. I have done all the normal tranny maintenance. Neutral Safety switch ???Other then that, the tranny shifts great.
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I've got smoke coming out of my oil dipstick tube. 1996 Mercury Mystique 2.0L automatic, 62000 miles. I noticed a burning oil smell after a short (10 mile) drive, and checked the oil when I got home. A few wisps of smoke smelling of burning oil came out of the dipstick tube when I removed the stick. I was just curious how worried I should be about this.
As far as I can tell, my cooling system works (radiator hoses are warm, good hot air from the vents, thermostat and coolant recently replaced, hoses inspected, no leaks) and I'm not thinking the burnt oil is caused by overheating. There hasn't been any noticeable oil consumption, and I'm pretty diligent about checking the oil on this old car. Oil changes every 3000 miles since I've owned the car; dealer performed scheduled maintenance for the old owners.
Here's my thinking: a worn piston ring allowing oil to be burnt and then sucked back through into the crankcase. When I changed my spark plugs, I did notice an oily residue on one of the plugs (cylinder #1), which also leads me towards a piston ring diagnosis (though I was hoping it was a valve seal causing the oily spark plug, or even a spark plug seal). Do a wet compression test is in order, or should I go ahead and get a leakdown test? I am going to buy a compression tester, but I do not have an air compressor to use with the leakdown tester; I'd have to take it to a shop.
I do need to service the PCV system (and would have done it today, but the parts hadn't arrived at the store) -- would a PCV problem cause the oil to burn, though?
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I drive a 1998 Ford Contour, the transmission goes into neutral on takeoff in drive, you can manually shift through the gears and get going, but not from drive.
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So, I have a 1995 Ford Contour that I purchased in May from it's previous owner.
Within the past couple weeks, I've noticed a combination of sounds coming from under the front of the car, especially on the left side and especially when I slow down and make left turns. I know nothing about cars and I just worry about my car sounding like a sinking ship.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Ford Contour 133k miles
I've only driven the car for about 2 months, Ive never had an issue with it until yesterday other than an occasional hard shift when driving the car hard. Yesterday when I dropped the car in drive it wouldn't pull at all, I sat in my apartments parking lot continually revving the car high in drive but it wont do anything, its like the car is in neutral. Reverse works and I can drive by manually shifting from first to second and then putting the car in drive, but if I put it into drive before reaching 3rd gear it jumps back to neutral.
I checked the linkage, and the lever it connects to on the transmission; when put into drive the position of the lever coincides with the neutral position. I called a few local transmission shops and they diagnosed is as a broken sprag, but from reading online it seems like it could be a clogged transmission filter or a faulty transmission range sensor. Prior to this issue I would sometimes here a whistle coming from under the hood when driving, I didn't know until today that a whistle is indicative of a vacuum leak, but wouldn't it throw on my check engine light? I have checked my transmission fluid, its at the correct level and is a nice cherry red, it doesn't have any bad or burnt odor.
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I drive a 98 Ford Contour Sport. When I was driving today, I signaled a left turn, and the signal began working erratically. This also happened with a right turn, and, since I deliver sandwiches, happened when I turned my hazards on. Throughout the day it got worse, and eventually stopped working. I'm willing to bet that it's a wiring issue since all of my fuses are fine.
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I just purchased a 2000 ford contour and it only has one major problem, the tail lights stay on after shutting off the engine and turning the lights off, you actually have to pull out the fuse to get them to turn off and then replace it before driving again, I looked through the owners manual and cod not find a solution. Also, the brake lights don't get brighter when you press the brakes, I'm not sure if that is part of the same problem or another issue entirely.
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As everyone can probably tell, I migrated from the 6.0 Diesel section. A few weeks ago I bought myself a 2008 F250 with a 5.4. I do have several questions: It is a 2008 with 116,000 miles on the odometer
The guy I bought it from had replaced the engine in it. The tag on the engine indicates a build date of 4-21-06. It supposedly had 40,000 miles on it. He told me that the mechanic that installed it replaced the spark plugs and replaced one of the timing chain guides.
What model year would the engine be considered for replacement parts and trouble shooting?
I do hear, what I would describe from the old days as lifter noise. It is not a ticking, but more of a swooshing, RPM specific, that is slightly louder when the engine is cold vs. warm. RPM at idle is perfect at 640, fluctuating only about 5-10. It idles very smooth, hardly detectable.
I do not know what kind of oil was used in the truck, but the filter was after market. I changed it to 5W20 with a **** filter the day after I bought it.
The rear end is geared 3.73, and coming from a chipped diesel, this one seems sluggish. I realize this is a very heavy truck for the engine, but should it feel heavy. The "lie o meter" tells me my MPG is 9.4 driving in the city. Have not yet had a good chance to take it on the highway.
So, to summarize in trying to learn the 5.4. What would the model year be considered. What should I check with the swooshing/lifter noise.
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My 230,000km 4.0 Litre will rattle (Only engine warm) when backing off the throttle such as decelerating slightly in preparation to turn off highway. ONLY when the oil is warm currently using 20/50 oil due to this rattle (improved situation) and if I drive just a certain way, I can avoid the rattle by going straight to negative deceleration from accelerating. When accelerating with any force there is NEVER a rattle. however if the tranny shifts at top rpm for your foots position on the gas, it'll rattle just before the shift, once in a higher gear the force of accelerating again or positive drivetrain force, prevents rattle it seems. SOUNDS like one tappet. or one of something. Cold engine cold oil NO rattle in any throttle position. Warm engine at idle sound will be there but not a clattery rattle just a tick/knock sound steady and I'm sure half engine speed.
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