Ford - Clubwagon :: Synthetic Oil Can Expose Leaks
Sep 26, 2013
From what I've read here Synthetic oil can expose leaks in an older engine oil because of greater cleaning properties that removes sludge build up. I bought my Ford E350 110K, 2 months ago and the oil was changed at that time. I've put 2K on it since and the oil is still very clear on the dipstick but not quite to the full mark. Would the still clear looking oil indicate a well maintained engine and a probable lack of sludge? Would it therefore be safe to change to Mobil 1 or similar product?
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
After a recent front brake caliper replacement, the brakes work great except that when moderate pressure is continually applied to the brake pedal, the pedal goes all the way to the floor. While driving down the road, when the brake pedal is depressed, the brakes engage right where you expect them to, and the van stops just fine, even if the stop is extreme. There is no air in the brake lines. The front calipers have been replaced twice, the back brake cylinders replaced, the master cylinder replaced, the RABS valve replaced, all by a certified shop trying to address this issue.
I spoke with the service manager at a local Ford dealer in Seattle and he was aware of the problem and said that there is no solution. He said the brakes will work fine. He couldn't explain to me however, why this happens. If the van is not running, the brake pedal holds firm, so I assume the problem has something to do with either the ABS system or the power assist, but I can't say for sure. I can live with this since the van stops great. What is mechanically going on that allows the brake pedal to go to the floor even though the brakes are fully engaged after the pedal is depressed say a third to a half way down to the floor.
View 4 Replies
1998 FORD E350 CLUB WAGON 15 PASSENGER VAN. Front brakes are sticking bad. Stop at intersection with snow or slick condition and you can barely get the van to start moving. After you do you can fell the drag and the vehicle working hard to keep moving. Take tires off front, can not see anything obvious that is wrong. Can see where the bake pads are leave makes on the rotor.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2000 E350 15 passenger Ford Van with 125,000 miles on it. I am burning a quart every 500 miles. The van produces a cloud of black smoke occasionally when I start it. Maybe once every 10 starts or so. It seems to be more prevalent when the van is parked with the engine downhill. About a year ago, I switched to high mileage oil. Could this be part of the problem? Or is there anything other than a rebuilt engine that will work?
View 7 Replies
My 2010 Fusion SE has 44,500 miles on it. It is the 4cyl. model with a 6 speed manual transmission. I have had the oil changed every 4-5,000 miles, never had any issues. Today when I went in to get the oil changed the guy told me a synthetic blend is required, and he wanted to charge me an extra 20 bucks for the oil change. I looked up in owners man. and it says SAE 5W20 and some Ford nomenclature for the minimum requirements for quality, etc. My question is this, why haven't any of my other oil changes required an up charge to a more expensive oil? I would have noticed. Does this car really need synthetic blend, and if so, is it really better than conventional oil? Have my previous oil changed damaged the car?
View 19 Replies
I recently posted a thread about my 2011 5.0L F-150 making a knocking sound that I was unsure about. Here's a link to that thread. [URL] ....
But my question here is about oil. My truck is still making that damned noise, it seems more audible sometimes and less so others. But it ONLY happens when the engine gets warmer. The noise is completely absent when I do a cold start in the mornings. I've been trying to figure out if it always made that noise or not...I do remember a few years ago when the truck was brand new, pulling up at a drive through window for coffee and noticing that there seemed to be an excessive amount of engine noise echoing off the brick building. But other than that it never sounded out of place to me.
I only started noticing this knock after my most recent oil change, which for the first time ever in this truck, I went from using the Standard issue Motocraft 50/50 synthetic blend oil to using Mobile full synthetic.
Now, I could be totally off base with this...But is it possible that my trucks engine is making more noise due to the thinner synthetic oil? I am considering going back to the MC 50/50 blend oil to see if it makes a difference. Also it's worth noting that this knock really only seems to be present below 1000RPMS. When I'm actually driving and pulling between 1500 and 3000 RPMS the engine itself sounds and feels as smooth as butter. On that note, it idles perfectly smooth as well...It's just the noise below 1K RPMS.
View 14 Replies
Having issue with synthetic oil (Rotella T6) causing leaks in the 6.7? I'm getting ready for my first oil change and I don't want to have an issue like I did with my 7.3 leaking from the oil pan gasket when I used synthetic.
View 14 Replies
Mechanic at work told me to run 10-15 k.
My truck is my daily driver for work and such. Occasional 300 mile round trips to see family.
Last time I changed my oil was in June. And I've put about 6500 miles on it.
I run royal purple 15-40
I just not sure what to believe. Maybe someone has a link to an article ?
View 14 Replies
New diesel owner looking for some info? Currently approaching 9k miles. My first oil change was done by the dealer. I was looking at my owners manual on what weight of oil to use. I am thinking of going to a 5w-40 oil but all seems to be synthetic. Do i need to do anything special if i am going to change from a conventional to synthetic?
View 7 Replies
The trans fluid appears to need to be changed. I do not know if it has been changed in the past as this 2001 F150 with a V6 truck is new to me and has 88K miles. I am wanting to drain the torque converter as well as drop the pan and change the filter. I am willing to take the risk of having to rebuild the transmission if the flush junks it up.
Three Questions:
1. Is there any issue with mixing the synthetic with ATF fluid as there would still be ATF in the cooler and other places unless I take it someplace and have it mechanically flushed?
2. Is there a way to determine if my 4R70W trans has a drain plug in the torque converter with out getting under there, looking thru the inspection port while some one is clicking the starter?
3. Is there any reason not to put a drain plug in the pan while it is uninstalled?
View 3 Replies
Is there a MPG gain with synthetic oil or adding a tonneau cover?
I'm planning on doing the tonneau but curious if any noticeable differences with either.
View 14 Replies
How much would it harm a car to put "regular" engine oil in it instead of the recommended synthetic oil...
...if I did it just once?
...if I did it regularly?
View 11 Replies
My car is less than a week old. My salesman told me that my 2010 Prius III has conventional oil in it. However, one of the sales managers said all 2010's come with synthetic from the factory. The pamphlet with the owner's manual says it has synthetic oil as well. I don't know the advantages of going to synthetic, but I know you can't switch over later.
View 5 Replies
Let's change from conventional oil to synthetic nothing but the best for my old 65, c-10, 6 cylinder. Now she smokes all the time. Tell me it is not too late to switch her back to conventional oil. I have been told yes I can and no I cannot. What I may have done that can or cannot be undone?
View 10 Replies
Looking for changing transmission fluid to synthetic with next change. '05 Camry LE V6 with 100,000 miles. The fluid was changed last year by the previous owner, but as with many other new owners, I like to change out most/all fluids so I have a fresh start. Any issues with changing to a synthetic or is the Toyota fluid already synthetic/semi ? Also, would you consider 100,000 miles too high to change the engine oil to full synthetic ? Oil was changed by the dealer when purchased 2 weeks ago and still looks like new, but prefer using a full syn as with the wife's car, my Highlander, and my Harley.
View 14 Replies
I have the 2010 prius V with the 17in tires. I love the rims on them Vs the hubcaps on the other models.
HOwever I have read that it is hard to hypermile with the 17in rims. SO I was trying to figure out what I can do to raise that MPG up there. I have noticed that my prius does not glide well.
I have 2LBs more air in the tires then it says on the side. mine say 60LB so i have 62.
My only thought is to running Amsoil 0w30 oil and amsoil synthetic tranny fluid. I know on a regular gas car you can up your MPG at least 2 MPG or more.
View 19 Replies
Our Prius just passed 100K miles and I am no longer covered by any warranty on the ICE. I have been regularly changing oil every 5K using Castrol oil & Toyota filters but am planning to switch to Mobil 1 and changing interval to 10K. I change my own oil and we put lots of miles (30-35K/yr) mostly long distance traveling.
There have been some old wives tales about changing to synthetic oil on cars with a lot of miles. I assume that they are just that - old wives tales. I am fairly convinced by other posts here that going to 10K intervals is OK.
View 4 Replies
My CPO '11 Lux has a strong odor coming from the air vents. First thought it might be some kind of air freshening canister that was injecting the fragrance, but now wondering if I have an antifreeze leak???
View 6 Replies
I have a 07 camry I4 with 56,900+ miles and it was using 10w30 conventional oil, but recently (2 weeks ago) I change it to 5w30 Mobil1 synthetic and today notice at start up white smoke, it didn't do this before with the conventional oil.
Is this normal with this type of change from conventional to synthetic or should I worry and try to go back to conventional and see if it stop.
View 14 Replies
Last night I mistakenly poured a small amount (less than 1/4 cup, approx) of synthetic motor oil (5w30) into the power brake reservoir of my 2008 Cadillac STS. It was too late for a garage to be open, and I was about 80 miles from home. I tried to scoop as much of the oil as I could out of the reservoir with my fingers, then drove it home with no problems. Other than leaving all future maintenance to the pros, is there anything else I should do now?
View 10 Replies
MY 2003 Windstar has 77,000 miles on it. I recently switched mechanics. When I went for the last oil change they said I had oil leaks and recommended they do a dye test to see where the leaks are, I agreed. They found 3 leaks: front crankshaft seal - $138, Oil Pan Gasket - $373 and Timing Cover & Or Gasket - $960. They said from a priority stand point the oil pan leak should be fixed. I really don't want to put a lot of money into it because there are some any things as well. I use it mainly for around town with some occasional long trips. And I haven't seen any oil under it when it has sat for a while. Is it a high probability while on a trip the oil pan could fail all at once? Will I get some warning the problem is getting worst by seeing oil under it when it's parked for awhile?
View 9 Replies
