Ford - Bronco :: 1996 - Squeaking Sound In The Rear, Under Acceleration
Feb 4, 2014
I've had a vibration since I bought this Bronco 7 yrs ago. I have replaced everything underneath from front to rear. Tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, U joints, shackles, etc. As I replaced things, the vibration got better. Or at least wasn't as violent. Now, the vibration is becoming LOUDER. It only happens during acceleration. I can get up to 65-70, let off the gas, and all I hear is the beautiful sound of the tires. If I get back in the throttle, the sound of the rumbling vibration drowns out the stereo. Also, I have recently noticed a squeaking sound in the rear, under acceleration.
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I bought a 96 Bronco 5 speed manual last year in pretty good shape.Everything works well, but the idle speed at coasting is hovering around 1500rpm until the vehicle slow down to 30mph at which point the rpm drop to about 700 (where it should be).It only happens while coasting.When truck is parked, the idle is fine and steady; I revved it up to 3000rpm for a while to see if I could replicate the behavior, but no, as soon as I release the accelerator, the rpm's drop nicely to 700.While driving though, if I switch to neutral, the rpm will go up for a second, and than sloooowly drop to around 1500 and stay there until I slow down to 30mph. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, wires, TPS, ICM, and MAF are new. Could it be ECM?
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I took my rear springs off for some cleaning and lubing because they were making squeaking noise on hard acceleration, but I forgot to note which direction the springs should point...
I kinda remember the top and bottom. If I got this right, the end with a smaller loop is on the bottom.
Is there any difference between left and right springs? Also, the spring mounting pads is not symmetrical. Which way are they suppose to face? Does it matter?
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Our SFS LTD started this high pitch constant squeaking sound in the back of the hatch/cabin. We can't figure out where it's coming from. It doesn't seem to have any relation to the suspension (going over big bumps), and occurs on regular driving on flat terrain or regular street bumps/turns, city/highway...
We figure something is rubbing in the back or perhaps its due to a bulletin from the 2008 SFS (welding fix in the rear panel)?
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I have a 2 month old 2013 Prius v, recently I’m hearing a squeaking sound, a sort of rusty door hinge sound when staring the my Prius v every morning (or after parking it for around 7-8 hours or so) coming from the rear axle or wheels. What causes it or what I can do about it? I have brought it to my dealer but it seems they don’t have any clue on what is happening (or they just don’t want to do the warranty on it).
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Having issue with body squeaking ? . I am getting a squeaking sound coming from around the passenger rear door /body area of my 2010 Passat. Car has 10K miles and has been doing this since around 6K miles. Not noticeable unless going over uneven pavement or railroad tracks but it is annoying. Never had any body squeaks from a new car lite this. Have not been to the dealer with this issue yet.
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I've just bought a 1996 celica GT. It has very low mileage and is in great general shape for it's age. There is one thing that annoys me and it's a clicking sound coming from the rear passenger side wheel when going over bumps (I hear it a low speeds as tire noise take over after I guess). I was wondering if I should be looking for different signs when I jack it up? Worn bushings? And is there a way to reproduce the sound. I've read about the rear bushing being a problem on these cars... is it true?
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We took a trip from L.A. to Sedona AZ two weeks ago during the top of the heat wave. 120 degrees in Needles and 108 in Sedona for three days we were there. The car sat in the sun at the motel all three days except for one short hiking trip. Everything was fine, car ran great, and I didn't baby it, pretty much 75mph all the way there average. On the day we were leaving I went out to get prepared to leave and there was a distinct HUM coming from the rear, most probably the battery area. After a drive to the gas station and on our way out it resided, but I was concerned. Never heard this sound before.
Second thing is (twice I've noticed this), very hot days, I'm getting a lull in acceleration from stop. Whether in Normal or Power mode it's the same. (I regularly drive in Power mode). When hitting the pedal it *pauses* before it accelerates away, like when you start running out of gas in a gas vehicle.
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My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
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Well i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
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I have a 1996 Geo Prizm, with about 126K miles. I bought it last May, at around 120,000 miles and had no problems with it until recently, other than some minor issues with the power steering in November. In November, it started making a squeaking or grinding noise whenever I went around a sharp turn. It turned out that the power steering fluid was slightly low, so I added more and that was the end of that problem. But I also found out that the previous owner had put the wrong kind of power steering fluid in. Starting about 2 weeks ago, the car started making a squeaking or squealing noise. There would be no squeaking when I started the car, but then it would start when I turned. It is only audible when the engine is idling, and I'm not sure if it is squealing at other times, too.
I figured it was probably one of the belts, probably the power steering belt. However, I checked it and it seemed to be tight enough and did not appear cracked or glazed. A friend of mine who knows much more about cars than I do also checked the power steering, alternator, and A/C compressor pumps for me, and he said they seemed fine. About the same time the squeaking started, I noticed the car seemed to be burning a lot more fuel than usual. I have filled up the gas tank twice since then. Typically, throughout this winter, the car has gotten 33-36 miles per gallon. But on the last tank, it only got 25 MPG and it got 29 MPG on the tank before that. There has been no change in my driving habits to explain this. The engine also sounds slightly rough when it is idling, almost like a diesel engine, but no louder than the car usually sounds. My friend who checked the belts listened to it when it was idling, and he thought he heard a slight knocking sound, which I heard too.
I noticed no decline in performance: the car accelerates just as quickly as ever, and performs the way it always has. The power steering seems to function just fine, despite the squeaking. I thought that perhaps there was something wrong with the timing belt, and that might explain both the squeaking and the increased fuel burn. But I looked online at a few websites, and it sounds like timing belts usually don't show any symptoms when they are wearing out, they usually just fail without much warning. Also, when I bought the car, the previous owner said the timing belt was replaced at around 90K, so it should be fine for a while. I am at a loss as to what might be wrong with the car. I wonder if the squeaking and the increased fuel burn are caused by the same problem, or if there might be separate problems causing each.
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So I noticed, driving to work today, that there was this loud squeak happening while accelerating. It almost sounds like an old belt, or how old brakes sound when they are to worn. I have no idea where this sound is coming from.
The only thing is it happens ONLY when the RPM's are 2k-2.5k. And ONLY while accelerating. Other than that it doesn't make that noise.
I've tried revving to see if the noise is there. I also tried while moving, to hold the clutch and rev match to that zone and still no noise. It only happens while in gear it seems.
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I have been getting a code 18 which is a loss of tach signal. I have checked the distributor and the module and they are both good. Where do I start next?
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I have a 1988 FORD BRONCO, full size, that has a peculiar problem. I tried starting the car and it turned over, but when I tried shutting it off it kept turning over. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. I replaced the solenoid being careful to route the wiring connections the same way. I tried starting it and it shut off using the key switch the first time, but when I tried starting it again it wouldn't shut off so I had to disconnect the battery. What might be the problem? The ignition switch??
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So three weeks ago, yes 3 weeks, my loathed Bronco decided not to start. It has been sitting at my office parking lot since then. Every day at lunch and after work I spend some quality time with it, attempting to coax it back to life. Here is what I've done so far...Installed a new ignition coil (gets 12+ volts with key in 'run,' and ±10.5 v. when cranking), a new distributor, (with PIP) cap & rotor, new remote mounted ignition control module. All voltages and resistances throughout the ignition system are good according to the Hayes repair manual but there is no spark being sent to the distributor. I've also done an ECC self test and got no response at all. Does this mean the ECC/PCM is bad? My butt is in so much pain with me having to ride a bicycle everywhere. (Riding in the rain while carrying an umbrella is no fun!).If I don't figure this out soon I suppose I'll give the Vehicle Donation Program a call.
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The drive selector on my 2000 Ford Explorer Automatic 4.0L will not allow selection of low gear. The selections are shifted to the right so the last one, low gear will not select. When in park, P, it shows R. When in drive, D, it shows as 2 and when in 2 it shows as 1. Then it will not allow to shift in to 1.The settings are off by 1 knotch. what's up with that? It runs fine but cant get to low.
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I have a 1988 full size Ford Bronco that when I start it the motor keeps turning over even when I turn the key off. I installed a new solenoid thinking that would do the trick and it worked correctly the first time, but the second time it kept turning over until I unhooked the battery. What is the problem? Is it the ignition key?
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The panel goes off and the fan quits blowing. Sometimes it works, cools great, then just cuts off...
1989 Bronco II 2.9 4x4 auto 164k miles... I have been on TRS, BroncoII Corral, and even FSB searching.
This is the first attempt at reaching out because i have found that here at FTE the folks that chime in know their stuff, or know where i can find out for myself.
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I was thinking the other day, wonder if a 66-77 bronco 9" axle would work, width wise, on an Aero? Obviously, you'd have to grind off all the mounting brackets and add the Aero ones. Mostly just building the "ultimate Aero" in my mind,
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I have a 2002 Ranger 4.0 4x4 Off-road. Over the weekend I started hearing a squeaking sound that varied with the throttle, so I guessed the u-joints needed work. I took it in (no garage or tools available atm), and the garage called me later in the day saying my driveshaft was unrepairable, that I needed a new one. I told them to hold off.
Now, a little research found me some sites claiming that Ford did indeed make some disposable driveshafts, with pinned u-joints, but in the F-series, not the Ranger.
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When my 1989 Bronco II has about a quarter tank of gas left, it begins to "shudder" and lose about 500 rpms while I've got my foot on the gas. It will shudder and lose power for a second or two, then run fine for a minute or so, then do the shuddering stuff again. It'll do this all the way to the gas station. But with the tank full (or even half full) the shuddering stuff is gone as I drive out the gas station.
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