Ford - Bronco :: 1994 - Has No Spark - ECC / PCM Mode?
May 16, 2013
So three weeks ago, yes 3 weeks, my loathed Bronco decided not to start. It has been sitting at my office parking lot since then. Every day at lunch and after work I spend some quality time with it, attempting to coax it back to life. Here is what I've done so far...Installed a new ignition coil (gets 12+ volts with key in 'run,' and ±10.5 v. when cranking), a new distributor, (with PIP) cap & rotor, new remote mounted ignition control module. All voltages and resistances throughout the ignition system are good according to the Hayes repair manual but there is no spark being sent to the distributor. I've also done an ECC self test and got no response at all. Does this mean the ECC/PCM is bad? My butt is in so much pain with me having to ride a bicycle everywhere. (Riding in the rain while carrying an umbrella is no fun!).If I don't figure this out soon I suppose I'll give the Vehicle Donation Program a call.
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I have a 94 ranger with the 2.3l engine there is no spark at the ignition module (the front one both on the drivers side) that controls the plugs on the drivers side of the engine. I swapped with the module for the exhaust side but the problem stays at the same two plus and doesn't move with the module .. What can be the source of this problem? ECU?
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Sons 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto 185k got him to work yesterday but would not start to bring him home. No spark, checked with timing light, and no fuel pressure. Searched and read alot of tips from Pawpaw so I tried a few things with no luck. Swapped the relays around, inspected coil pack and plugs. CEL was not on and goes out while cranking. I have a OBD scan tool but this truck must be too old or I need finding plug. Crank sensor maybe?
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I have a need for a 12-volt signal to indicate the engine is in start or run mode. I would like to pull this from the engine compartment but I'm not sure what would be the best or easiest way to do this. The 12-volt signal is not used to power anything so it will draw very little current. I have a 94 F150.
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I get a call from my mother saying their 1994 Toyota Camry 2.2L car won't start. I went over there today and the first thing I check was the spark. I hooked my spark tester and had my dad crank the engine over. No spark. So I removed the distributor cap and tested the resistance on the primary and secondary sides of the coil. The secondary side was low. So I went and got a new coil, installed it and it still wouldn't start. I checked the spark again and it had spark, but still wouldn't start. I then proceeded to check the fuel pressure. I hooked up my pressure tester to fuel filter, with the included adapter, and had my dad turn the ignition switch to ON position. No pressure. Then I had him try and start the engine, the pressure jumped up to 41 PSI. I then sprayed a little gas into the throttle and the engine would try to start. I'm stuck.
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1994 Mercedes C280, Cylinder 1 & 6 no spark. Changed 3 coil packs, changed wires and spark plugs. Engine wire harness look fine. Cylinders 2,3,4,5 have spark. Coil number 3 Controls Cylinder 1& 6; and I use multi-meter to check for voltage. 11.70 volts with key on position, 13.80 volts with ignition on. I need to figure out could it be a sensor or the ECU( Computer) or Engine?
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94 camry. 4 cylinder. Coil is located on the strut housing along with the ignitor. The car was running, but overheating.
The last time it ran, it overheated badly, but was parked right away. Fans never came on.
The radiator was leaking, so that was replaced. And since the fans hadn't come on, the temp sensor for the fans, in the bottom of the rad was also replaced.
Now it won't start. It cranks over nicely, and acts like it is missing spark or fuel.
It has spark. Determined by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor and checking there.
I used spray starting fluid by pulling the tube from the end of the throttle body and spraying in there. The spray starting fluid should have at least caused a cough or two, if not a short start and run then die... if fuel delivery was the problem.
I have tried it with the temp switch on the manifold connected, and then disconnected. Also tried jumping that connector, so I don't think that temp switch is the problem. (It's the temp switch that has the green connector.)
I am assuming the ignitor and coil are good, otherwise I would not be getting a spark from there.
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The problem began with intermittent stalling and now the Jeep will not start at all (no spark). I have had the cap, rotor, primary ignition coil, crank sensor, cam position sensor and PCM replaced without any luck. The repair bills have been brutal. The garage has given up.
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Have replaced distributor, spark plugs, coil, and still have very weak, erratic spark. Plugs getting plenty of fuel, won't start. What else I should do?
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1994 Ford Ranger. Replaced coil, ignition control module, and distributor. Have checked fuses. Cranks fine.
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94 Camry, 4 cylinder. 204,000 miles. New fuel pump last year. Timing belt replaced 30K ago. Plugs and plug wires, as well as distributor cap and rotor, about 2 years old. New ignition coil about 300 miles ago. Generally very well maintained and in good shape. Today it died on the NJ Turnpike, 200 miles from home; started missing and it got progressively worse over the span of about 30 seconds to the point that the motor died. Towed to local Pep Boys (I know, but it was the only choice on a Saturday and I don't know the local area).
Mechanic says no spark but was unable to fix it. As things now stand the nearest Toyota dealer is scheduled to move the car to their shop on Monday. All the dash lights come on, including chimes and such. It will crank like a champ but will not fire up. I know this isn't giving you all much to go on, but I'm wondering if what happened could be related to the coil. Is it likely to have failed? Would replacing an old coil cause anything else to break down in the distributor?
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I wanted to no why my car has water on the spark plugs not a lot though couple drips on the threads and on the part u gap(numbers 3 and 5 both are side by side), the oil looks like a light chocolate shack, it also spills a lot of water out the exhaust pipe. sort of like its being sprayed out non stop. i haven't did a compression test but all plugs are removed I am thinking its a head gasket. And the rest of the spark plugs look good just numbers 3 and 5 were wet.
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I've been trying to work out why my 94 Camry isn't starting, and was hoping I could run a few things by you all and see if you think I'm headed in the right direction. So, here's the situation so far.
No leading-up issues of any kind. Just passed a (real) PA inspection and runs great. The car was parked just overnight, running fine the day before. The next day, it wouldn't start at all. Strong turn-over. No attempt to start. I tested a working spark plug by connecting it to the car (pulled out), and then connecting the threads to the negative terminal of the battery. While turning over, there was no spark. I then pulled the distributor cap and rotor. It appears some oil (definitely engine oil) had gotten inside from a previous known leak. The rotor contact was not super clean and looked to have some burnt up oil on it. I cleaned up all the contact points and reassembled. Nothing. Took the cap back off and tested the coil with an ohmmeter, which was all within spec. I have not tested individual terminal from the distributor, because a) I'm not entirely sure of a good way to do this and b) I doubt all four cables went bad at the same time, and if some were firing, it should be attempting to start, no? I suspect it's an issue from the distributor or before.
I had read that a coil with good ohmmeter readings may still be bad, so I ordered a new one. Should be here tomorrow.
Is there anything else I should test or look into? Oh, and is it weird that the headlight fuse keep blowing when I attempt to start the car? Does that give any clues as to the source of the problem?
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I recently bought a used 1994 Plymouth Grand Voyager. The other day I went to start the van, and nothing happened- it clicked, and all the lights and horn were functioning, but it wouldn't turn over. I got under the car and found that the starter was hot, so I went to the auto parts store and bought a new starter. I put it in, and drove it home, and all was well. The next day I got on the highway and discovered that the van would not get out of limp mode- it wouldn't shift into a higher gear and the RPMs were building higher. I got off and took side streets home.
I disconnected the battery for a good while and re-connected it, and things were fine for a short while, but it developed the problem again.
I intend on checking the relays under the hood, checking electrical connections, and getting a trans fluid change soon. Is replacing the starter at all related to the limp mode issue?
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I have been getting a code 18 which is a loss of tach signal. I have checked the distributor and the module and they are both good. Where do I start next?
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I have a 1988 FORD BRONCO, full size, that has a peculiar problem. I tried starting the car and it turned over, but when I tried shutting it off it kept turning over. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. I replaced the solenoid being careful to route the wiring connections the same way. I tried starting it and it shut off using the key switch the first time, but when I tried starting it again it wouldn't shut off so I had to disconnect the battery. What might be the problem? The ignition switch??
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The drive selector on my 2000 Ford Explorer Automatic 4.0L will not allow selection of low gear. The selections are shifted to the right so the last one, low gear will not select. When in park, P, it shows R. When in drive, D, it shows as 2 and when in 2 it shows as 1. Then it will not allow to shift in to 1.The settings are off by 1 knotch. what's up with that? It runs fine but cant get to low.
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I have a 1988 full size Ford Bronco that when I start it the motor keeps turning over even when I turn the key off. I installed a new solenoid thinking that would do the trick and it worked correctly the first time, but the second time it kept turning over until I unhooked the battery. What is the problem? Is it the ignition key?
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I bought a 96 Bronco 5 speed manual last year in pretty good shape.Everything works well, but the idle speed at coasting is hovering around 1500rpm until the vehicle slow down to 30mph at which point the rpm drop to about 700 (where it should be).It only happens while coasting.When truck is parked, the idle is fine and steady; I revved it up to 3000rpm for a while to see if I could replicate the behavior, but no, as soon as I release the accelerator, the rpm's drop nicely to 700.While driving though, if I switch to neutral, the rpm will go up for a second, and than sloooowly drop to around 1500 and stay there until I slow down to 30mph. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, wires, TPS, ICM, and MAF are new. Could it be ECM?
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The panel goes off and the fan quits blowing. Sometimes it works, cools great, then just cuts off...
1989 Bronco II 2.9 4x4 auto 164k miles... I have been on TRS, BroncoII Corral, and even FSB searching.
This is the first attempt at reaching out because i have found that here at FTE the folks that chime in know their stuff, or know where i can find out for myself.
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I was thinking the other day, wonder if a 66-77 bronco 9" axle would work, width wise, on an Aero? Obviously, you'd have to grind off all the mounting brackets and add the Aero ones. Mostly just building the "ultimate Aero" in my mind,
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