My 1993 5.0 liter bronco is making a strange ticking noise. when it's idling, and it ticks, the idle drops. then it will tick again and the idle will raise up. usually between the 600 to 1000 rpm range. it just started doing this and never did before.
View 8 RepliesHave a 93 Bronco, 5.0. replaced battery, IAV and had a complete tune-up. Now starts great, runs fine until it gets warm, than in about 5 - 10 minutes the idle starts to fluctuate. A little at first but eventually between 1000 to 300 rpm and will stall if you don't give it some gas. Turn it off, restart, starts fine and runs OK again for a while.
View 2 RepliesAbout a two weeks ago, I had a CEL pop up. I brought it in to the stealership to get it scanned. I don't recall what the exact code was, but the description was something to the effect of "Cooling System Performance." I hadn't noticed that the engine temp was any different than it had ever been, so we kinda figured it was just a bad sensor. We popped the hood just to take a look at things, but he didn't really notice that anything was off. I thought the engine sounded a little difference. It wasn't idling rough, but there was a very subtle ticking noise. He didn't think anything of it. So he cleared the code, and sent me on my way.
The code came back a few days later, but disappeared about a week ago. Since then, however, my .:R has been feeling a little different. Like I'm losing torque. The ticking noise has become distinctly louder, although I can only hear it when I pop the hood. Last night, i was listening to it, and there are two separate noises, coming from two different locations. One is coming from the left side of the engine, most likely from one of the belts. The other is the one that worries me the most, as it's quite a bit louder. This ticking noise seems to be coming from the engine itself. The longer I let the car idle, the louder it gets.
One of my friends took a listen, and he suggested that it could be a blown piston ring. This would explain why I'm losing torque, but I haven't noticed any blue smoke coming from my exhaust.
Ok I have had this noise going on for about 1 week before transmission went out. I just built the trans and its still there.
I had a mishap years back with front end hub bearings so I replaced with New Timken Bearings. Well that wasn't it but at least I know where I
stand with those. It starts making a noise when slowing down about 3-5 seconds before coming to a stop. I thought maybe the carrier bearing in
driveshaft?
Pinion bearing in rear diff? I need to service the parking brakes on rear so I may pull it down and go through it.
I bought a 96 Bronco 5 speed manual last year in pretty good shape.Everything works well, but the idle speed at coasting is hovering around 1500rpm until the vehicle slow down to 30mph at which point the rpm drop to about 700 (where it should be).It only happens while coasting.When truck is parked, the idle is fine and steady; I revved it up to 3000rpm for a while to see if I could replicate the behavior, but no, as soon as I release the accelerator, the rpm's drop nicely to 700.While driving though, if I switch to neutral, the rpm will go up for a second, and than sloooowly drop to around 1500 and stay there until I slow down to 30mph. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, wires, TPS, ICM, and MAF are new. Could it be ECM?
View 6 RepliesI have a 93 Ford explorer, when I start off at a high speed I hear a rattle noise, when I'm going up a hill it starts to make the rattling noise and the check engine light comes on, also when going up the hill when this happens I'm going around 110 and it kinda like powers out slows down on its own to 80, when I have the pedal down all the way you can hear I think over drive kicks in the rattling stops but no power and when I release the pedal a little the rattling noise comes back. Also the RPM is at 4 when i have the pedal all the way down.
View 1 RepliesMy 2008 Prius with 105k miles recently started having a strange clunking noise when turning at low speed. Dealership diagnosed it as the steering shaft and yoke to replace.
View 7 Replies1993 Geo Prizm, manual transmission: Intermittent failure to start over a two year period, gradually becoming more frequent. The engine turns over every time the key is turned to start the engine, i.e. the starter motor/battery/battery connections work flawlessly. Once started the engine runs flawlessly without misses or shut downs. The only possible problem may be the engine idle speed that seems at times to be too high even after the engine is warmed up. Without predictability, the engine may fail to start when the key is turned.
Remember the engine still turns over normally. It just does not fire up. Two options exist for my predicament. That which is resorted to the most because of the speed of recovery: step out of the vehicle and push start the car by popping the clutch. The other alternative which I have been forced to utilize before because of the physical impossibility of push starting (i.e. if I had been able to push, I would have popped the clutch to start) at the time has been to wait for a protracted period and re-attempt to key start the car. This has been successful a couple of times.
I have a 2000 vw 2.8 v6.
I got it back in February and it ran great up until now. A couple months ago while driving home my cel started flashing and right when the light came on I could immediately feel an immense loss in power and when I got to a red light it would shake like mofo. Gettin up to speed was suddenly a huge problem and the car would make a strange noise and I could smell a strong odor of gas and slight oil. I have a valve cover gasket leak that I paid 300 bucks to replace but after a week I realized it's still leaking oil so that 300 bucks just went out the window. The sluggish performance and cel went away the next time I drove the car and it ran awesome for over a month till one day while I was on my way home from grabbing some lunch it all of a sudden started happening again. Sluggish performance, smell of gas and slight oil, wouldn't get up to speed.
I brought it to my local vw dealership to have it looked at yesterday figuring that they'd be able to tell me exactly what was going wrong. I got a call early this morning saying that the oil leak in my valve covers are causing my coil pack to short out and foul my plugs and wires and then told me it was going to cost 1,700 bucks with all the parts and labor. I'm not very mechanically inclined when it comes to vehicles so it's not like I can do the work myself but my main question is, how can the oil cause the coil pack to short out seeing that oil is not conductive and some cars actually use oil to cool the packs down. Is that a legitimate diagnosis or is the dealership mechanic Actually right or is he just getting creative trying to squeeze some money out of me.
A while ago, my Vic started making a strange noise when it idled. Sort of sounded like a water buffalo in heat. When you goosed the throttle, or drove it the noise went away, but came back at idle. It seemed to be coming from a hose that attached to the intake plenum, but it went underneath the back of the intake manifold. My mechanic was a bit baffled, so he called a friend at the local Ford dealership who called it the "Hooter" valve and told him how to get at it. The car is fixed, and no longer makes farm animals lovesick, but I still don't know what the thing is or what is does....
View 2 Replies2014 Ecoboost... Have a tic at idle is this normal?
View 2 RepliesLately or maybe I never really paid attention to it, there's this strange noise at idle. 2009 passat w/ 35k mi(auto trans). Noise sounds like a small dog growling or a swarm of bees. Doesn't always make the noise but sometimes when I come to a stop light or pull into my driveway I can hear. Sometimes the noise is constant or it cuts in and out. Pooped the hood and it sounds like it is between the back of the engine and fire wall.
View 12 RepliesI have a tick in my 2001 V10, 190,000 (mostly easy) miles. I've changed oil/filter regularly at 3,000 mile intervals using Valvoline 5W20.
The tick seems to be on the passenger side of the engine, and is loudest when the engine is cold. It follows engine speed. The tick seems to be loudest as the engine transitions from acceleration to deceleration when I lift the throttle--I've NOT seen that posted before.
So, an exhaust manifold leak seems to be the most obvious? I installed a Banks Power Pack with Torque Tube headers in 2009 (about 90,000 miles ago) using thread lock compound on the supplied bolts and torqued to the instructions--I don't' remember the torque setting, but will look it up. I've listened to each exhaust port with a mechanic's stethoscope, all I hear is a smoothly running rotating assembly! Same result with the stethoscope on either side of the front cover (for timing chain slap.) NO tick through the stethoscope! I plan to check all the header bolts' torque this weekend, but don't really expect to find a problem. I will also scoot under the truck and recheck all the exhaust pipe clamps.
I've also listened to all the injectors--two of them (#3 and #4) were noticeably quieter than the other eight. But, none of them stood out as being particularly noisy. I've seen a couple of threads here that asked what a normal injector should sound like, but never an answer. How they should sound?
I've listened to each coil. I can hear a slight arc on #3. I believe the spring in the boot is not seated on the coil tab correctly (happened before.) I will correct that this weekend also. Nothing sounded like a loose plug, though I don't really know what that would sound like with the stethoscope.
What else could/should I check to avoid removing the valve/cam covers? (For cam follower or rocker trouble). I don't mind doing that, but don't want to go to the trouble and then find it wasn't necessary. I may spin on a Motorcraft filter (I'm just 800 miles into the last oil change now, I usually use Fram) but the tick stays with me until the engine is normal operating temperature, so I don't think it is from bleed back.
I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle Limited AWD and there is a loud ticking noise at idle. It seems to quite a little when put in gear.
View 6 RepliesAbout a week ago my 1997 F150 4.6L 2WD starting a ticking noise. I had used high mileage full synthetic Mobil 1 and a Motorcraft oil filter for the previous oil change and yesterday had another oil change using regular Mobil 1 synthetic and a Motorcraft oil filter. Had never used high mileage oil before.
Since the high mileage oil is supposed to have extra cleaning agents in it to remove the sludge buildup in the engine, could the sludge have found its way into the oil pan and possibly clogged up the oil pickup tube? The ticking was not continuous and would be at idle or acceleration.
No rhyme or reason to when you would hear it. I also wonder about an exhaust manifold leak which could sound like ticking. If the problem is an oil pickup tube being clogged up, can the oil pan be removed with the engine still in the truck?
I have a 2004 ford f150 5.4l v8 triton lariat and while at idle it has a ticking noise like this video
YouTube...
However I also have a rattling noise when decelerating at around 2000 rpms that sounds like a loose chain in a box. Not sure if its VCT sensor or cam phasers ...
At idle it is tick tick tick...... normal? 50,000 miles...
View 4 RepliesI recently got Gibson Performance Headers on my 2006 Ford F150. And when you cold start it or just start it period it has a odd ticking noise on the passenger side.
View 3 RepliesI've got an '04 Pkg IX with about 68k miles on it.
I've noticed that at speeds of greater than 60mph there is a distinct ticking noise (like the sound a bicycle makes when you turn the wheel "tick tick tick"). The noise is coming from the front end, sounds like near the passenger area.
The minute you drop down to speeds of around 50 or less it goes away.
I'm probably going to have to take it in to the dealer since I've already had an indy look at it.
2007 Mercury Milan w/GPS Nav system. Nav DVD reader has become very noisey, high-speed ticking noise. Dealer says whole system must be replaced. Can just the Nav DVD reader be replaced? and if so who/where?
View 3 Replies2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?