Ford :: Voltage Drops While On Highway / Battery Light Flickers
Jan 30, 2014
1999 Ford E350 Triton V8 ... I'm having an issue with battery voltage, and it only happens once in a while.
Sometimes, while on the highway, my voltage will drop suddenly, the battery light flickers then after a couple seconds... ding! The voltmeter jumps back up to it's normal operating voltage.
It may only happen once, or maybe 3 times in a row, or never. I cannot get it to reproduce.
I had the battery checked, that's fine. I'm doubting the alternator is the issue. What other factors could I consider?
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for some reason my battery light flickers when im driving regular and on the highway. I have had both batteries checked and they were at 50 percent charge and both were good so therefore I assumed it was my alternator. I removed alternator had it check and it passed all test. Everything was checked at o'reilly and autozone
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I have an odd issue, 2003 7.3L f250 ... My battery light flickers on and off, I had the alternator tested at a alt rebuild sale place here locally, I don't always trust the auto zone techs, also had the batteries tested at interstate batteries. both batteries good, alternator good.
I think my connector is bad on my alt, not the one that goes to the battery, output is 13.8 to 14.1 btw......there is another connector that is a PITA to get off. I think it is bad, I played with it and applied some dielectric grease had the light go out when I wiggled it.
Can just the connector be replaced?
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2004 F250 v10 xtl 260xxx. Started off by using my remote start, truck started up ran for about 5 sec then shut off, then restart itself and shut back off. When I manually started it, it ran fine. I noticed my battery light was on and as I was driving it would flicker. First thing I did when I got home was clean all my connections to see if that worked. Battery light still on, checked my volts on my battery and they were at about 11.8 with a slow but steady drop while truck was idling.then checked my alt, that too was at about 11.9 with a stead drop.
Alt was only about 7 months old and I had a warranty on it so I had it replaced at Napa and had them test it there. Good alt. Installed the new alt charged up my battery and turned it over. Battery light still on and flickering. Checked all my wires for corrosion, checked all my grounds. Everything checked out. Checked my battery again 12.4 with the truck off, cranked it over and it was back at 11.9 with a steady drop and almost the same reading with the alt. I replaced the battery as well yesterday, seeing how it was about 7 years old.
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I have a 99 f350 7.3l 4x4 and my battery light flickers randomly. I have checked the alternator and both battery's. All brand new and seems to be ok. They only are getting a charge when the battery light is flickering. I put both new batteries in on Thursday and on Sunday I needed a jump at the store.
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My escape has over 200k miles. My battery light dimly flickers constantly when running. there is also a misfire that seems to correspond with the flicker. the faster i rev the engine, the faster the battery light blinks.
My battery constantly shows 14.1 volts. the battery is new the alternator has been replaced twice in the past 2 years.... I noticed when i use my rear washer fluid, it spills into the car on the passenger side kick panel inside the vehicle.
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The battery light blinks in my truck. It's not a controlled blink, but it flickers like a loose bulb. It started a week or so ago. It would blip every once in a while. Gradually it would start to flicker more often. At first I thought it was belt-related but it isn't related to the transmission shifting at all. So if you're thinking that it's belt-related, you're going to have to explain why it doesn't blink either right before or right after a transmission shift (i.e. a rapid change in engine speed).
Earlier in the week, the light was flickering so hard that it was virtually on. I drove home last night and didn't see it once, although that's the first time I haven't seen it happen at all in a week. The battery gauge itself doesn't move a bit while this is happening. I have a cigarette lighter voltmeter and it shows a pretty steady 14.1 volts regardless of whether the light is flickering or not.
I had the batteries tested in my truck by a real battery shop about 4 months ago and they are fine. The battery connections all seem tight and clean, and the belt, tensioner and all that seems fine. So..What can cause a battery light to come on that isn't voltage related?
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I've been having issues with the charging system on my 2005. The battery was 7 years old, so I replaced it. Now, the battery light comes on dimly (and flickers) when at low RPM. I am thinking alternator. I replaced one on my 2002 F150, but haven't done a 250. How hard are they to get to and replace? This is on a 5.4 gasser.....
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So, I get back from vacay and find my baby has a new issue.... the "battery" light came on just after I started it up after my 10 days away.
I can drive it seemingly ok, it did do some cool flashing and lost display and radio on one trip but now it seems not as bad.
I did a volt meter chack on the batt terminals and have 12.3 or 12.4 with key off and 14.9 with engine running. I turned on the headlights and rear defroster and get 14.6V on the terminals. 21.6A running to the main fuse block right by the rad,
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Today my 98 Expedition just started at 50 mph or 3000 rpm with battery light flickering and voltage fluctuation toward high end of 18 volts. Battery is 1 month old. No problems under 45 mph or 2500 rpm.
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My Battery light came on on my dash and my scangauge 2 was reading 11.5/11.4 volts yesterday afternoon, I ran for codes on my obd-2 and P0528 came up. I picked up one new battery and put that in to see if that would bring my voltage up at all. Today it was reading 11.3/11.2 volts. From what I've gathered the P0528 is most likely the fan clutch or the harness connecting the fan clutch to the PCM.
I've seen the water pump replacement write up that shows how to pull the fan assembly. My questions are - can the fan clutch be replaced without draining/pull the radiator? or is it better off to just do the coolant flush and pull the radiator. And would the fan clutch/harness issue drop the voltage or would that just be two bad batteries?
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Bit of a confusing one as of late. Doesn't happen every time I drive, maybe 50% of the time. When I start the truck up, torque pro reads voltage at 13.9-14.1 consistent. After 30 minutes it usually drops to around 13.7/13.8. Sometimes, battery light comes on, voltage doesn't drop. I can drive the truck, park it, turn it off, restart, no side effects.
I notice if I stop, turn off the truck, and restart it, torq pro will begin to read a voltage of 12.8.13.0. Sometimes it won't budge for an hour, sometimes it climbs right back up to 13.8, sometimes the battery light goes off, sometimes it stays on.
Alternator was replaced a month ago, both batteries replaced a week ago, all terminals cleaned and secured at the time of replacement. Truck behaves perfectly normal, I'm almost at the point of putting a piece of tape over the light and ignoring it, but was curious before I go that route.
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At idle it stays at 48.5v-47.5v But as I pick up speed it continually drops. At 70mph it gets as low as 29v. But will go back up slowly as I let off the throttle.
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I've noticed on mornings when it's around freezing or colder my FICM voltage drops down to around 40. after about a minute it creeps up until it's in normal range, about 48 volts or better. This only seems to last about a minute before it's in normal range. No check engine lights though.
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i have a 2007 toyota camry LE, around 55,000 miles I wanted to install LED's under the dash on both driver and passenger sides using a tap-a-fuse adapter.. I tried tapping a fuse using the CIG lighter on the engine compartment.. it didn't work.. but i noticed after i failed the battery light came on.. then I checked all the fuses.. they were all fine. I got it checked by one mechanic he said its an alternator issue.. i now have 78,000 miles on the car and had no issues with the battery, start ups, or anything. I did however get a battery test and i was a little low on voltage but till this day i still have the battery light on but my car runs perfectly fine. Can it be a code issue?
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The brief information:
1. Stuck/non moving in traffic on the freeway for roughly 1 1/2. During that time the AC was running, but once I noticed my "battery light" on the dash turn on, I turned everything off.
2. Since then while on my way home from work the voltage meter only showed barely 12 volts at full throttle.
3. I charged my battteries, and started it up today to go into work. While going to work the voltage meter showed 14 at its high point, but shortly there after it dropped back down to 12. At which time the battery light came back on.
New battery or alternator?
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1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 L Check engine soon light comes on, battery voltage high. When I increase speed the head lamps get brighter when I decrease speed the head lamps get dimmer. I changed the alternator because that's what a mechanic said I needed but I still have the problen battery voltage high. Will this damage the battery or other components? Should I stop driving the car.
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Driving down the highway, battery gauge read fine power, but battery light came on. In a remote Alaska situation so I couldn't diagnose, plus truck is new to me. Kept driving towards civilization. All gauge dropped. Then lights dimmed, then truck died. This was over about 15 miles. At night with lights on. Truck has a plow with plow lights, aftermarket cranking stereo which I was using, heater on (Alaska). It sits 70 miles up the highway from where I'm at getting ready to go back and work on it. So...
Of course first thought it is the alternator, not providing enough power for all this. Looked inside, it is a newer looking reman. Belt is fine. My question is, if not this, what else could it be? I'm hoping to haul the alternator and whatever else out there and get it going without having to drive back and forth for more stuff I need. I can always return stuff I don't use. Probably I'll throw a new battery in it as well. But after that, anything else I should be thinking/ready for?
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I do run a small battery maintainer during the winter months plugged into a three way with the block heater. Alright after sitting out side for approx 9-10 hrs in 22 degree weather I did these checks. Battery voltages at 12.55V and 12.6V on batteries.
Voltage coming into for was also 12.5V. When glow plugs activated I am getting 11V on the other side of the gpr. After cycling glow plugs battery voltages drop to 9.6V during cranking and as soon as she starts back to 12.5V.
Do these numbers sounds right? In my opinion isn't the drop to 9.6V during cranking a little low or is that the normal?
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I spent a lot of time on the 7.3 forum, but I'm still new to the 6.0, so bear with me.
I've noticed that when I start my truck the battery voltage (as shown on SCT Livewire TS) often dips down to 11 or even 10.5 volts. The batteries are almost new, dated March 2016. When cruising down the highway voltage is about 12.7-13, sometimes a little higher. The alternator is also less than a year old
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I took my car in to a GM dealer and they replaced the fuel tank due to a leak. The cost was under covered under a special recall via GM. Now when the car is low on gas .. (Say about 50-60 miles left on a tank, or lesss) and I'm on the highway the car will not accelerate. When I try to speed up the RPM's drop and it seems like the engine isn't getting gas? almost like i'm running out of gas. I can still drive on residential streets going up to 40-45 mph but when i get on the highway it won't continuously drops and won't let me get up to speed.
Brought it back in , they replaced the fuel sensor... but that still is not fixing the problem. Below is link to a video of what it does.
Notice the RPM dropping..the whole time im trying to accelerate and pressing down on the gas pedal [URL] ....
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