I have a rebuilt Ford 289 engine (do not know how long ago it was rebuilt) that takes a quart of oil in about 250 to 300 miles. It does not smoke or leak, runs fine and has good compression. A friend has a 350 Chevy engine with the same issue. What can the reason for this oil consumption without smoking or leaking?
View 6 RepliesI have my 2002 Ford F450 7.3 diesel in the shop right now. Early story is it is leaking in the turbo or there is a problem with the turbo. Last summer I took the truck cross country and 500 miles from home I was gunning it to get on the highway and it started acting up (poor excelleration). And it started smoking and leaking oil. I crippled it home at lower speeds. Now that it's in the shop they told me about the turbo but have to keep it till tomorrow for a closer look. My question is what else should I consider since they have it in. I mean should they replace the turbo while their at it or any other parts that make sense since they are already into it?
View 14 RepliesI gunned it from a dig the other day and my car started smoking and leaking red fluid like crazy! I thought it was my tranny so I pulled over let it cool down and called VW roadside assistance. I brought it to the dealer and they said it was my torque converter seal that was ruined and now i have to wait for my baby until Monday... just wondering which intake should i get for my 2.5er to negate effects such as that?
View 11 RepliesMy oil burner has gone through about 3 liters of coolant in 2 months. Can't find a leak. Brought it up to my dealer's attention a few weeks ago. Filled it up and told me to report back at next oil change.
View 6 RepliesI had a friend put in oil and they put way to much in it. Now it idles really rough, smoking, and acts like it don't want to go. What can I do about this?
View 3 RepliesA few weeks back I had an issue with my transmission, while moving the vehicle I noticed white smoke when starting the engine that would go away after a couple seconds.
If I let the engine warm up, it starts smoking again, removing the radiator cap and it stops smoking. I have checked spark plugs, fuel injectors, cylinders for water, but cannot find water anywhere. No water is showing up in the oil either. The transmission repair is on hold (hoping to just replace solenoid pack) while I try to figure out the engine issue. But at this point I am not sure what could be causing the smoke.
It's white smoke, 4.6 v8 on a 2008 Explorer. Is it the head gasket? Or am I overlooking something?
After changing out my tensioner on my 6.0 but not directly about 24 hours later I started getting a surge/power/smoking problem after accelerating. Seems to be no problem at idle. Last night driving from Nj to SC it seemed to do it after I stopped to pee. If I could get it back to 60-65 mph it would run fine but accelerating to there was rough. I change my ebp sensor and thought that solved it but it came back. Unfortunately I couldn't get the sensing line off so that wasn't cleaned.
Unplugged the egr and thought that did it but it ended doing it again. When looking at the dashboss it looks like exhaust pressure goes up and boost goes to zero. What would cause the guide vanes to close is that a defuel or is that just the result of another sensor. It's a late 04 build with ipc on valve cover and ebp sensor at front of engine. Also it seems to happen at higher speeds. Going up and down hills at 75 or even 70 it seemed to do it often. I ran 60-65 between pee stops for hours without a hiccup..
My truck is a 1998 F-150 4X4 set up for towing etc. The left front started smoking and the front end just started bouncing around very badly. Of course I pulled off and let it cool down. My question is this; I've pulled the hub and the bearings seem smooth although maybe a bit tight. I've checked the caliper and it seems to be working properly.
View 5 RepliesI know I've complained about oil consumption before on my 12' 5.0 with 42 K. I've kinda come to terms with it and figure not much I can do ? Next oil change I want to try to improve it. Checked it the other day and has used approx 3/4 of quart in 2200 K. I've read other guys post talking about improving consumption by switching brands and trying different viscosity. I'm using the recommended Ford 5/20 synthetic now.
View 8 RepliesAbout 3 weeks after an oil change, my 01 Ford Ranger started knocking and smoking when I accelerated up hills. I checked the oil levels to find that it was completely empty. Refilled the oil, but the problem persisted. Tried gas additive--nothing. Finally limped into the Ford dealership where they kept my car for 6 weeks trying to figure out what the problem was. After new plugs, wires, MAF sensor, coil, and PCM the problem seemed to be fixed...mostly. Knocking and smoking eventually stopped until I checked the oil levels again and it was empty. Added oil which started the symptoms all over again. Mechanic ruled out blown gasket. Claims knocking and smoking are unrelated (even though they happen at the same time 100% of the time). Smoke is white. Knocking (at its worst) sounds like a bolt rattling around in engine. Car does not lose power, and when I gun the engine it seems to go away. Only happens going up hills (of which Tennessee has plenty of).
View 4 RepliesGot home from work last night, passengers side rear wheel was smoking, and damn hot to the touch. Drivers side rear was hot, but not as bad as passenger's side.
My first thought was worst case sceneries - wheel bearings. After getting it in the air, in neutral, I can turn the wheels, but, it takes a lot of effort. There's no grinding noises, but, it sounds like a brake is in constant contact.
I'm in the process of taking both wheels off, but, I'm leaning towards either the brakes/calipers or the ebrake dragging. It definitely smells like hot brakes, and not diff fluid.
I have a 1998 f150 4x4 with a 4.6 triton vin #w and only 150,000 miles but its smoking. On first start up everything is good to go but when the engine reaches operating temperatures it will smoke.
It does not smoke all the time, just on takeoff. Such as after taking off after sitting at a red light it will puff a cloud of smoke from both sides of the engine. The engine is smoking blue so I know its oil its burning.
I pulled the valve covers off last week and the engine is clean, no sludge or gum. Power is good, runs good, and has good compression. Why its smoking.
I parked my 2003 f150 about 8wks ago, and at that time the blower had been running only on high then not at all, then only on high again.
As I need it to pull the boat up north next week, I purchased and changed the resistor. When I started it up the blower motor wouldn't run and eventually it started to smoke, so I pulled the wire connector to the motor.
Where I can find a procedure for motor testing, and removal as I think this is probably where I'm headed with this. There seems to be utube videos on everything else but not this. I may just have to go out and purchase a Hains or Chilton manual but I'm Scottish and always look for the free route first.
I have a 2002 F150 4.6 liter 2 wheel drive with 49000 original miles, 30000 of that in the past 2 years. on a recent road trip the right rear disk brake caliper jammed in city traffic. I limped into a local repair shop with the right rear brake smoking. I rolled out with all new rear rotors pads and calipers. The mechanic could not locate new brake hoses. These hoses and lines are one piece from the caliper to the T fitting on the axle. Even the ford dealer could not locate the right rear brake lines.
Made it home 450 miles but the right rear caliper is still dragging a little on the new rotor. Seems to be about 40F hotter than the left side. I have spent the day trying to find replacements and can find the left side in one piece but not the right side. I have looked at the the union where the hose and line connect and there is no hex on the line side of the fitting its just round. You can see where the mechanic put a pipe wrench on the round and tried to break the two pieces apart but no luck.
My '06 Ford F-150, 4.6 V8 is smoking when I start it up occasionally. The smoke color is blue. The only mod is flowmaster exhaust. Bad injector, sticking valve......
Where would you start? I am all for supporting a local mechanic but financially I do not have the money to gamble. Once I can pinpoint the problem I will take it to them to fix.
I've got an '02 F150 with a 5.4L Triton. Despite being 10 yrs. old it's just passed the dealer warranty mileage about 80,000 miles. Due to a family situation it's been sitting idle for upwards of 2 or 3 weeks between startups.
When I do startup there's a puff of blue/geyish smoke, the engine idles rough for about 30 secs. and then everything smooths out and she runs normal.
I haven't noticed this issue before, I would add the temps here have been extremely cold the last few weeks. What direction do I point a mechanic in so he doesn't waste time or money on a diagnostic.
My stepmother has a 2006 Ford Freestyle AWD with a 3.0L Volvo engine. It seems to be consuming a great deal of oil. (Definitely not leaking it.) But not on a regular basis.... Within a couple weeks of changing the oil this time, it has consumed nearly 2 quarts! Other times it hardly uses any. This has been going on for a couple years now. She has taken it to the dealership numerous times and they cannot seem to find the issue. It doesn't have a "burnt" smell when I pull the dipstick either. The mileage is low as she hardly drives the car. (Under 80,000 miles) I've looked online and can't seem to find this problem elsewhere.
View 3 RepliesLooking for the average oil consumption on the 5.0L V8 engine.
Dealer service indicated the 5.0L uses oil.
If so, why does this engine consume so much oil.
So Friday before last my ex laid down on me while i was headed to work. So I parked it in a walmart parking lot and caught a ride to work with a friend then had it towed home that evening. Problem i was having is it started running really bad, miss firing, smoking, and sounding real rough, but I wasn't getting any trouble codes. So after both uvch's, icp, ipr, icp pigtail, checking fuel for water contamination and pulling my hair out, i decided to check the oil and found it to be 4 quarts low. Talk about feel like a knuckle head.... While it was down it did receive a new water pump, a diesel site 203* thermostat, new billet thermostat housing, Gooch's Radiator Flush Procedure, and some fresh rotella etc.
View 5 RepliesI got a deal on a1997 f450 7.3 what does it take to swap to 2001 f250 7.3.mine has a bad cylinder with smoking nd low compression.
View 5 RepliesAs most of us probably do up in the colder regions, idle time likely increases to some degree. I do have and use the high idle mod unless it's a cold start and the truck does it on it's own during warm up.
I guess what I have always wondered is how much fuel does one actually use during idle? Reason I ask is it has not really hurt the mileage that much at this point from what I have been seeing. Sure it does go down but it's not really bad.
How long do posters here let a truck sit and idle, for instance when running an errand or making a stop?
10 minutes?
20?
Longer?
We all know during cold weather the big over the road trucks will sit for an hour or longer when drivers stop, and most let them run all night if at a truck or rest stop.......granted the circumstances are different.