Ford :: Mercury Tracer 1998 - Starter Always On
Nov 3, 2012
I have a 1989 mercury tracer. The starter was just replaced and the the car started and ran fine for 3 days. Then when the car was switched on but not running after about 5 minutes, the car started itself, without touching or moving the key. Now whenever it is switched to the on position the starter goes on, and never goes off. The last time I drove it before this, after it ran for about an hour, I think the starter may have gone on, when I was a few minutes from parking it, because it started to make a lot of noise. the next day when I was checking it is when the starter engaged and started the motor with the key on but the car not running.
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Recently I had a stuttering and squealing from a belt. I was able to shift into all gears with no problems. Before I could get it looked at, the squealing stopped and I was unable to go faster than 30 mph. The belt and pulley were replaced, but the car now will not shift out of 2nd gear. Transmission fluid is good, and has not been leaking. Does this indicate that I will need a new transmission? Or is there possibly a less expensive possibility? I've heard that some vehicles have what's called "limp mode". Also, is it safe to drive at 30-35 mph., and what damage might I do by driving it?
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1998 mercury tracer-
Car doesn't start, makes no sound at all when key is turned. After removing the key, engine light and shift light stay illuminated and the gps plugged into lighter stayed on. Normally there is no power to lighter with ignition off and key out. Headlights don't come on and remote entry doesn't work.
We tried to jumpstart-still doesn't start or make any sound at all. But the two dash lights went out once the cables were hooked to other battery. After disconnecting, dash lights remained off as well as power at lighter.
Battery voltage is 12.16v and it's only 2.5 years old.
Could it just be a bad battery?Does the fact we couldn't jumpstart it indicate a problem other then the battery?
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I have a back up vehicle which my son uses occasionally. It's '1994 Mercury tracer. All the transmission fluid appears to be on the ground. Would that mean the transmission is no good! We haven't driven it but once this summer. My son bought some transmission fluid and put it in.
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I have a 1999 Mercury Tracer with a 2.0 engine. 149,000 miles on the engine. Here is the trouble, it overheats at low driving speeds. My temp stays normal at idle in the driveway, normal at speeds of 35/45/55 or more. After about 10-15 minutes of driving around 25-30MPH though, the temp climbs steadily and approaches the red line. I checked my oil level and coolant level. Both of them appear to be fine. I have not noticed any leaks from the water pump area and cannot see any coolant in my driveway.
Could it be the thermostat is stuck closed? Air bubble in my coolant?
I have NOT pressure tested it yet, but I will be doing that this evening.
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I have this excellent little car which has not given me any headache on its 210K miles so far. In the last four mounths, however, I started to notice that the engine starts kind of trembling on 5th gear and loses its power as if sothing chokes it, if I keep pressing the gas pedal it will make it worst, but once I let it go or shift down to 4th gear it reasumes normally for a while and then comes back again. I was told this could be a ignition coil or an axle problem.
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Have vibration in steering wheel starting at around 70 mph on the highway:-This started after changing out front braked pads, but the brakes are smooth when applied with no vibration also turned rotors by hand to check for any grabbing on pad everything is fine.-Jacked up car and checked for wheel movement, everything seems tight.-Swapped tires around to see if a tire was out of balance.These are some of the things I have tried.
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I have a 2000 Grand Marquis. Yesterday I turned the key and the starter didn't crank. Everything else came on like it is supposed to. Radio, dash, warning lights, etc. After trying a few times, it started but the starter wouldn't disengage. I had to disconnect the battery for it to stop. I changed the ignition switch and cycled the key, but when I try to hook the battery back up, the starter immediately begins to crank. Even when the key is off and out of the ignition.
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I changed the starter and the ignition connector and the battery is charged car won't turn over, need to solve problem...
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The customer brought in her 130,000 mile 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis complaining that the starter would click several times as she turned the key again and again, before it would make the the engine crank like crazy. I saw that the positive battery cable was badly corroded, and replaced the aftermarket end with a new aftermarket end. Everything was nice and clean. No difference. I tested the battery for load voltage with my good old Sun VAT-60. It tested good, sufficient voltage after 15 seconds under a 100 amp load. I removed the fuel pump relay so that the car would not stay running for long, and then would not start when the starter did engage. It drew 120 amps while cranking. That's within spec for a fully warm engine.
I think what she has is a bad solenoid atop the starter, or perhaps a bad spot on the commutator that moves slightly with each click until the brushes are in another position. Then it will turn OK.
I think a new starter is needed. Am I on the right track? I don't want to crawl under it unless I have to, and she doesn't have money for me to make a mistake.
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So earlier today when I tried to start my car it wouldn't start! I tried cranking her over twice and I got nothing. The battery gage needle didn't move when I tried starting her up the few times. What's weird is that I took my other car (parents) out to run the errands I needed to run and when I got back I thought to myself "well maybe the battery is dead and needs to be jumped" that makes sense right? So as I pull up next to my car I decided to try starting her one last time and when I put the key in and cranked her over she started right up! Not a stutter or anything! So I'm left with the feeling that maybe it could be a failing alternator ? Or possibly a loose cable or something ?
Btw the car is a '98 Mercury Grand Marquis.
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Brakes on 1998 1/2 Mercury Mystique pull to the right. Everything except the master cylinder has been replaced. Online info from people with similar problems,show replacing master cylinder has not worked. Appears to be a lot of people with the same problem yet they cannot find the root of the problem. No recall has been issued. I have been to the dealership and several repair shops and I am sinking money into a problem that has yet to be resolved.
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THE PROBLEM: The Power Locks, Trunk Release and Power Windows Lock on my 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis have stopped working altogether. They don't work with either the key remote or the actual control panel in the car itself. So the only way to open the car or trunk is the old fashioned way, with the key. SO FAR...I've tried replacing the fuse - a 20 Amp CB - on the fuse panel, but it had no effect. What's my next step?
A LITTLE BACKGROUND: Recently a different key remote stopped working for this same issue. I tried replacing the battery in the key remote, but it had no effect. So I began using my spare key remote and it worked fine for about a week. But during this time the control panel in the car still worked properly. Now nothing works. Not sure if the other remote's issue was related or not to what's wrong now.
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My van had been making a screeching sound especially when it was cold. I would turn the car on to warm up and it would screech for any where from few seconds to about 1 min. when i got hotter it would only do it for a couple of seconds. the gas was low so i went ot put gas in the car and after i was driving it on the highway and it cut off on me. first the tow guy said it was the fuel pump or filter or strainer but it was one of those. I had it towed to my house and a mechanic friend said it was the t-belt not the fuel pump. i just want to know what could it be . I have a 1998 mercury villager with about 170,000 miles...
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What is making my auto transmission shift harshly on my 1998 Mercury Sable? I changed its fluid but it didn't work.
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I'm a relatively new F150 owner (just got rid of the 98 Ranger I drove since 99), so I thought I'd check in to see if I was overlooking something obvious. A few days ago, after driving to the store with no obvious issues, I went shopping (coincidentally for oil change materials) and when I returned to my truck it would not start.
Here is a bit of info:
Starter cranks over the engine.
Battery is relatively new, and has plenty of power.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on briefly.
Check engine light is on (EGR Valve fault).
Engine started with starter fluid.
Engine ran like normal after starting.
Finally, the vehicle started/ran fine for a few days before the issue occurred again.
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the vehicle yet, but I'm assuming the issue must be with the fuel delivery system. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but I am curious whether a faulty EGR valve cause a no start? Also, I'm wondering if it's more likely that the fuel pump is going bad, or something electrical is the problem since I'm under the impression that the engine stops sending fuel to the cylinder if/when the engine doesn't start quickly after turning the key.
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I Have a 1998 f150 4.6 XLT and recently it has been starting on and off. sometimes i will try and start it and wham! it starts right off. then other times I just here the starter hitting and engaging but nothing. Replaced the starter, solenoid and still nothing. It does have an alarm system but the alarm light doesn't come on, also had battery charged and its working fine. I am really fed up with this beautiful looking POS. Oh and the wiper motor needs replace.
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What could be ready to go south and what kind of money?
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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Yesterday, i changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, mass air flow sensor, air filter and replaced the in and out take coolant lines in the throttle body.
Before yesterday, i got random misfire codes that would clear and return, i have no a/c, i believe the thermostat needs replacing as the van runs hot after a while of running and quickly when idling and the upper radiator hose is hot. The van's idle is rough to the point that some one else turned up the idle so it would stop stalling so frequently, especially in reverse. it stalls very very rarely now.
then a few days a go i got a knock sensor code that clears itself and then returns.
A friend changed the distributor cap, and noticed some melting and corrosion, hence the spark plug and wire change. this friend also pulled the wiring harness for the front 3 injectors while it was running. the one on the far right created no audible engine change (also this spark plug was immaculate compared to the others), so he said it is bad (or is my friend a moron?)i had also noticed a coolant hose that would spray coolant when really hot.
So yesterday i tackled the above. In the process of doing this i had to rip the other coolant hose to remove throttle body, i replaced these with a self cut piece of 1/2 heater hose. after removing throttle body, i realized i needed a gasket. so got one of those.
a few notes:i used antisieze lube and dielectric lube on spark plugs, thread and ceramic respectively. the mass air flow sensor is used.i cleaned the throttle valve with brake cleaner (non chlorinated) because it was nasty! i did not remove the cables attached to throttle body, just moved it out of the way while working.i hand tightened everything.there were 2 skinny hoses i disconnected, one with a metal tip that went in to the large rubber air intake hose, and one that ran into the throttle body (this hose ripped like a 1/4 inch off it seemed long enough, so i did not replace). i disconnected the large air intake hose at 3 spots with pipe clamps.i disconnected 3 wiring harnesses 2 at throttle body and 1 at mass air flow sensor
Now, it seems the van is running smoother while getting gas, but rougher when idling. What did i miss? what would be causing a rougher idle? I am now at work, i will not be home till around 9 cst. So I cannot check anything.the van did throw another code, but i have not checked it yet.
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I just noticed that my Grand Marquis recently started to squeak rather loudly coming from the front end shocks.. Think its coming more from the passenger side.. Now we've never changed the shocks since we've had the car so I'm fairly certain it's going to need some new shocks. But could this also be because the lube has dried out on the suspension ?. Doesn't affect the drive but it sure is annoying driving around with the squeaking...
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