Ford :: How To Prevent Carbon Build Up
Dec 6, 2012
My commute is only 11.5 miles. 6 miles of it I can run 55-65. Am I building a carbon nightmare?
View 11 RepliesMy commute is only 11.5 miles. 6 miles of it I can run 55-65. Am I building a carbon nightmare?
View 11 RepliesAnything to remove some carbon build up, that won't cost an arm and a leg. My car has 123k miles on it and those morning starts from the carbon build up are just unpleasing to say the least.
View 7 RepliesMy 87 Acura Integra with 170k gave SMOG reading in CA as below:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 87525 542 535
A m/c tells me it is the result of carbon build up on pistons.
Incidentally it gave the following in 2010 - upon retesting without any repair it passed:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 65625 542 678
Note: Recent oil change (Mobil 1 High Mileage), tune up, Thermostat, new PCV valve, NGK Plat spark
It is for "NO" - Nitrous Oxide
Last week when we were in the single digits outside my 3.6 SE took about 15-20 sec of cranking to start (garage kept). Then the check engine light came on (2nd time in 10 months). I drive a lot (80 miles a day), and have put 19,900 miles on since I purchased it in March of 2012. The light turned off after three cycles, but I just so happen to have my 20,000 mile service scheduled so I took the car in. The hard start still is happening every few start ups.
The dealer told me the hard start issues I have been experiencing was due to excessive carbon build up on the valves. The dealer said they haven't seen many "high mileage" 2012 3.6 come through, so they could not tell me if this is common.
I use Shell 93 octane for every fill up. Is there something else I should be doing to prevent this carbon build up? Any others seen this with their higher mileage 2012 3.6? BTW they also had to replace the right rear control arm due to one of the bushings being worn out!
I have a 2014 Sonata with 22k miles. I love this car but lately I've noticed valve rattle under acceleration. Brought this up with service tech and he said I'm not driving the car on long enough trips to keep it cleaned off. When I researched the GDI very little info comes up for Hyundai mainly vw and BMW. I guess what I'm asking is is the only fix for the carbon build up removing the intake and cleaning the valves manually or is there another way.
View 56 RepliesI recently took my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T in b/c the check engine light was on. They initially replaced a leaking valve and a bad ignition coil, but the car was still misfiring on cylinder 3. They took off the intake manifold and found that there was significant carbon build up. The service writer said it was from "low-quality" gas. The car requires 91 octane. I've used 93 octane since 2007 but started using 89 octane around 6 months ago when the gas prices spiked again. Could 6 months of 89 octane cause significant carbon build up to the point it would trip the check engine light? Or could something else have caused it that I need to watch out for?
View 4 RepliesBeen told my EGR valve is ok on my 96 accord . But I may have carbon build up in my suction side . I used deep creep for week to loosen up the build up. What else can I do?
View 5 RepliesI will be towing my 8800 lb 5th wheel over Cabbage Hill in Oregon at the end of June. It is about 12 miles of 6% grade going up. Going to Salt Lake City area. I will be using my signature truck.
I will flush my system using Gooch's Flush Procedure...installing all new hoses...16lb radiator cap...and will use 2 gallons of Fleetcharge antifreeze and a bottle and a half of Supercoolant. My system works fine now, just want to make sure it is in top condition before I go.
Will this prevent overheating while crossing the mountains....or should I remove thermostat until I get in the flatlands?
When I had the throttle body removed for cleaning I noticed the upper intake had quite a bit of wet looking carbon on the surface of the plenum. I've seen shops hang a bottle of Seafoam from the hood and let it slowly drip into the intake hose just before the throttle body to clean the intake. Any thoughts on this or must I remove the manifold and clean it with solvent and bore brushes?
View 1 RepliesNow for the 2nd time my ebpv is clogged with carbon. Is there Any way to keep it clean or am I going to have to clean it every 2k miles? A
View 7 RepliesI have an 09 F150 with oversized tires. What are my options for stabilizing the steering and preventing wandering? Can a steering stabilizer be added to the newer 150's?
View 14 RepliesWhen I find a good deal I stock up, case in point we had a menards open up recently and with all their sales to get ya in there the washer fluid was 2 for a buck. well shoot I have 5 gallons at the house and i just ran out in the f150. problem its all summer stuff like only good til 32 degrees f. Its supposed to get to neg 9 here tomorrow night. solution my local grocery has had a sale on isopropyl alcohol for quite a while (I have alot of 16oz bottles stocked up) so I'm gonna pour 8 oz of alcohol in a gallon and see how that does me.I usually do throw in some alcohol in the winter time just in case. We don't see temps that low very often in st louis, on top of snow we are supposed to get here. so there ya have it if ya find yourself with a tank full of summer washer fluid or just have a bunch around throw in some alcohol and wash away the winter nasty from your windshield.
View 14 RepliesI recently bought a 2006 that idles rough, not real bad, but bad enough for me (and my 9 year old kid!) to notice. I asked the dealer where I bought it and they put it on the computer and said everything checked out. He said "it's a characteristic of this motor." I've never heard of such a thing. The truck has 27,000 miles on it and the dealer flushed the fuel system. He said the throttle plate had a lot of carbon on it, but it still idles rough... 4.6 idle rough?
View 13 RepliesI am looking for any info on what to use for engine build for more power and torque in my race car.
View 14 RepliesI removed the driver's side glow plugs and injectors and put new o-rings and coppers on the injectors and reinstalled them. Then I tried to suck out the fuel and oil which had glugged into the primarily #8 cylinder and got no oil out.
Then I used a bump switch to push the oil out the glow plug holes and got no oil out of them. Then I did a compression test on the driver's side cylinders and installed new Motorcraft glow plugs.
I have not spun the engine since and it has been about three weeks since I did the compression test.
Tomorrow I am completing my hutch mod and reinstalling the fuel tank.
Did spinning the engine without the glow plugs in, force the oil and fuel out the exhaust valves?
Should I do something else to prevent hydrolocking before starting the engine?
2003 ranger 4.0 5 speed .... Pretty new to the car/truck world only 18 and this is my first truck, I traded my focus for it and so far so good. Its my first manual but i got to tinkering and i noticed some oil build up under the front end so i got to looking and found this, wondering if its an issue, should I try to fix whatever is causing it or take it to a mechanic. Looks like between tranny and engine to me.
View 2 RepliesI was reading some of the TSB and I think some of them apply to my 2010 STX 4x4 with a 4.6l 3v. I am not sure of the build date
View 11 RepliesIs there any way to keep the interior lights and running board lights from coming on when you open the doors, really would like to keep them off all the time.
View 7 RepliesP0237 code. The truck is a 2003 f250 with an edge evo . The truck will run great then throws this code and won't build boost of over 11 psi. Now it even drops it right off to 0. I replaced the map sensor a month ago and doesn't seem to have fixed anything.
View 2 RepliesGot a 2006 6.0 won't build turbo pressure had to previous codes a p0098 and a p0405 I replaced the egr valve and the mafs codes went away but still no boost
View 9 Repliesso i bit the bullet and got a 2001 Ford explorer sport. Not as old as i wanted and has 'way more power options than i wanted but I like her.
Weird thing: around the edges of the rear wheel humps/ bed liner, there's a fair amount of moisture build up on the metal on both sides, under the carpet (pulled the corners back), enough to make the padding damp. Used car guy said was "condensation" from the freaky weather we had had over the last several weeks (granted, it was unseasonably warm/cold changes and raging wind & rain). Had a mechanic look the car over before purchase, he said everything was great shape. But he'd never heard of this type of condensation although he said it wasn't outside the realm of possibility. The back rear windows are sealed and there's no evidence of a leak but he said might need to take it to a body shop and have them silicone around the windows and/or check the door seals.
The water doesn't seem to increase with rain, no damp tracks, and doesn't gather anywhere else that I've found but doesn't seem to dry either...no condensation on the inside of the windows when the truck is closed up.