Ford :: Gas Odor When Running The Air Condition
Apr 20, 2015
Well, the title pretty much sums it up. I recently had cabin air filter and fuel filter replaced. Could this be the cause??
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Apr 20, 2015
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Ford - Edge :: 2007 - Oily Odor In The Cabin That Is Intermittent When Running The AC
Parked on a slight decline in my driveway and after I moved the car, a 2007 Ford Edge SEL AWD, there was a spot caused by condensation dripping from the AC, but in the middle was a thick very black oil spot about 1 inch in diameter, checked other areas where the car was parked and no spots or very small drip spots the same dark color, also there is an "oily odor" in the cabin that is intermittent when running the AC.
View 3 RepliesMazda - Protege :: 1996 - Lean Running Condition
I own a 1996 Mazda Protégé with 128,000 miles. I had it in for a check of a sewing machine sound. The mechanic tested it and found, among things, a "lean running condition". What does that mean?
View 4 RepliesCorolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Door Remote Is Not Working If The Engine Is In Running Condition
i just bought my 2nd hand 2009 corolla recently and i notice that my door remote is not working if the engine is in running condition.
let say i park my car in front of the mini store to buy something, i don't want to shut off the engine so that the inside of the car is still cold when i comeback after a few minutes. (by the way, i am here in saudi arabia...gasoline here are much cheaper that everywhere else).
the problem is, when i use my remote to lock the door...it wont work...unlike my previous cars, door remotes are working even the engine is on or off...
is there any settings from the computer or do i just have to do something from the inside of the car..
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2009 GLS - Gasoline Odor Inside The Car After Been Running For A While
I have a 2009 4cyl GLS with a manual trans (about 18K miles). For the past few months, I have been noticing a faint gasoline odor both in my car and around my car after it has been running for awhile. And yes I have checked and it is not on my shoes or floor mats. The car does not smell until I get off the interstate etc... At first I thought it was another car around me that is giving off the odor but after many trips without cars near me, I can smell it and my passengers notice it too. It does not seem to happen when it is full, usually only around a half tank or less. I checked all around and under the car for any signs of leaks and found none, just wafts of gasoline odor. My MPGs is not off so I must not be leaking too much but the odor is getting worse.
View 17 RepliesFord - Explorer :: Random Hard Start Condition
I am having a random hard start condition. it will happen once a week or with no rhyme or reason. It turns over real nice but does not start until the second or third trythe last time on third try i push accel pedal to floor and it started. This hasn't happen in a few day so I cant tell you if the accel pedal will always work.
View 9 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Intermittent No Start Condition
The Truck...
1999 F-150 Supercab
170K miles
4.6 Litre
Automatic Trans
The Problem... About every other day, I try to start the truck, and it doesn't fire at all. It cranks fine, everything seems right, but no start.
What I've done...
Replaced Fuel Pump Relay.. (no luck)
Sprayed Starting Fluid In and Cranked... It Fires On Fluid.
Other info...
This problem never lasts long, and the problem mysteriously fixes itself after no more than an hour.
This problem has occurred both when the truck was warm and completely cold.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - No Start Condition In The Morning
I have a 2000 f150 4wd 4.6. It wouldn't start this morning. A few years ago I had to change the inertia switch so my first move was to bypass that, which didn't work.
After that I gave it a shot of ether to see if it would hiccup and tell me if I had spark or not. It started up, ran rough while the air cleaner was off, then cleared up and ran fine, and is now starting/running fine again.
The problem is that I have to take the truck on a trip Saturday, and I can't figure out what the problem was if the truck is starting. What it could have been? No check engine light or anything either.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - No Start Condition When Hot
I've been having an intermittent problem with a no start condition when hot. It has lately gotten worse to the point that I was dead in the water for about 25 minutes while i had the hood open to allow things to cool off. I closed everything back up hit the key and it jumped to life just like it was new. I've read through the tech folder as well as several other threads regarding no starts but haven't run across anything that is pointing me in any one direction. It cranks over very strong on new interstate batts that are only 6 months old and the SGII shows sync on the FICM and I'm getting a good RPM signal showing about 160-170 cranking RPM.
Good logic power and showing 47.5 to the injectors. I'm running an atlas 40 from Ed in the FICM. I've wiggled wires and done a cursory look but I would think that if there was any chaffing that cooling off wouldn't affect it and it would be dead until fixed. Once it is running I have no problems, never let me down or quit on me while under way. Again, it is intermittent where I'll have 3 weeks or a month of no problem at all and then run into long crank times for another couple of weeks.
I've made no mods to any of the HP oil system and have no leaks that I can see, no consumption between oil changes. I'm in the middle of building a house right now and need the truck to be reliable. I'm pretty good with a wrench if I know what the problem is but I don't know where to start on this. It's an '06 model but an '05 build date on the motor.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2002 - Single Click / No Crank Condition
back story but may have nothing to do with problem. battery terminal bolts were rusted solid so i cut them off and replaced. truck stated fine the last time i started it before doing this.
I turn key and get a single click. i tried jumping 2 large poles on fender solenoid and still one click no crank. i had taken off the starter and autozone tested and it passed. i checked voltages everywhere i could think of and all were as to be expected.
could it be the starter even though it passed?
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Lean Condition Bank 1 And 2 / Random Misfire
2006 f-150 with a 4.6L. Its got 175k on the clock and ran like a sewing machine despite little maintenance other than oil changes. Recently it started running like crap; no power and missing so he borrowed a scanner and it was giving multiple codes. Here's what we have done so far, not necessarily in this order :
1.Checked for vac leaks with carb cleaner (this can be tough as engine runs crappy and hard to detect minor changes in rpms while your under the hood) no leaks detected yet
2. Changed the plugs, all looked good except for one which was heavily fouled and the electrode ate away mostly, I wasnt there and he doesnt remember which one but have a suspicion, more on that in a min
3. Changed most of the COPs and checked them all with a spark tester, all are firing.
4.Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
5. Checked back pressure on the exhaust by removing an upstream o2 sensor and holding a plastic fitting hooked to a pressure gage long enough to get a reading, about 1 lb idling to maybe 2 max when engine is reved, gage is not the best and fluctuates a 1/2 lb or so. Exhaust does not smell of rotten eggs.
6. Changed the fuel filter, it was terrible
7. Ran a bottle of Seafoam in the tank
8. Took the throttle body and egr valve off and checked for carbon stoppage, the holes in the egr were not blocked
9. checked the PVC valve and line and both elbows
7. checked the injector connectors with a noid light for signal, they all flash, checked the injectors them selves with a multimeter set for ohms, all about from 13.5-14.5. This should mean they arent fried but could they still be stopped up? They all sound like they are pumping when you listen with a mechanics stethoscope
9. Changed all 4 o2 sensors as this had never been done anyway
10. Compression check on cylinders, all within 10% of each other at about 180 lbs. When we pulled the plugs they all looked good except for # 7 which was heavily fouled ( I suspect the same on the original plugs) and again with a bad electrode, the part coming out of the porcelin. Intrestingly, this was an autolite plug, the rest were motorcraft, I hoped this was somehow just a bad plug but no change with a new MC plug
11. Changed the injector on #7
The scanner reads lean condition on banks 1 and 2 and random misfires on #4 and # 7 still. Per a troubleshooting tip online, we sprayed some carb cleaner in a small vac line coming off the manifold to induce a rich condition and the scanner showed the o2 sensors go to .900 which is what they are supposed to do per the guide. This means they are functioning correctly and a bonafide lean condition exists. I am leaning towards a vacuum leak around the plastic manifold under the aluminum one, maybe the gaskets but would like to rule out the egr valve, could it be the culprit?
I have even considered the possibility that the PCM is bad, though not likely. I have read to detect a vac leak you can hook the scanner up and spray the carb cleaner around on the manifold and lines with the scanner hooked up watching the scanner PID for the o2 sensors and when they detect the cleaner, they will hit that .800-1.0 meaning the engine sucked the cleaner in and you have found your leak. The exhaust smells rich. If it is a vac leak, you would think it should be a massive leak and not hard to detect, as crappy as the truck runs. I have searched the forums for days and exhausted about all I know to do.
Most important note: early on I suspected low fuel pressure as a possibility; with no schrader valve on the fuel rail and no easy spot to T into the system, we were scratching our heads how were gonna measure psi but the scanner reads absolute fuel rail pressure, gives about 40-43 psi. I hope the scanner is telling us what we need to know there, would prefer a mechanical gauge on the rail!
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Intermittent No Start Condition And No OBD Codes
2006 F150 4.2 fuel issue? I get an intermitent no start condition and no obd codes. Then I discover that it really isn't intermittent, it only occurs after I have been running the engine. It will not start for at least 5-10 minutes after I have driven a few miles and shut the engine off. So if I wait 5-10 minutes then she starts and runs just fine. I played with this in the driveway to recreate this condition so I could determine if I had a spark or fuel issue (I have spark during no start). I found that 50% of the time I could start it right back up immediately after I shut the engine off. But if I shut it off right away again, then I got the no start condition again and have to wait another 5-10 minutes.
Now with cold engine I can start the motor over and over. To fix this I read forum after forum, which led me to decide that I had a fuel pump driver problem (module) located on back axle under spare tire. I replaced this and restarted the engine many times. The problem seemed to be gone but this only lasted about 30 minutes. Then it would not start at all and still no codes. I plugged my old module back in and the truck fired right up. So I decided I needed to (flash) pcm for new part but that changes nothing. Still no start with new module and runs with old module. I also replaced relay in fuse panel.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - Code P0299 Under Boost Condition
I'm having a little trouble with my 05 Excursion 6.0L .... We took off camping the other day pulling our 30' camper and the engine light came on pretty much as soon as we hit the highways. I checked my Dash boss and it came up as P0299 under boost condition. The truck never skipped a beat. The boost gauge never dropped and it seemed to have lots of power. Actually I've noticed too much boost while pulling. It's climbed up to 36psi before and was still climbing when I backed off the throttle. I'm thinking the turbo is fine but not sure what to check next.
View 7 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Check Engine Light On For Lean Condition - Getting 10 Mpg?
My 2000 ranger with the 3.0 is only getting around 10 or 11 mpg. It's got a check engine light on but the scanner just says lean condition. The truck also has a rough idle. I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.
View 14 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 F250 - No Crank Condition After Parked Overnight
This is a 6.4L powerstroke, but this is not an engine specific problem. I have a no crank condition that appeared overnight while parked in the driveway. I CAN start it by using the solenoid connector wire near the air filter box and supplying 12v from + battery post. I THINK that eliminates batteries, solenoid and starter.
Now that leaves Trans range sensor or (NSS) and the ignition switch. I can test and get 12V (light) on the Blu/Wh wire from ign sw when turned to start, so that seems good. And as far as I can tell the trans range sensor is internal to the tranny, and I really don't want to go there if possible....
Also there are no codes on the Solus scanner I borrowed. And the voltage is showing as 11.7 on the scanner....is that low enough to prevent voltage from being sent to the solenoid thru the SJB and/or PCM even though engine will start as described?
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 - Code P0303 And P0171 / Cylinder 3 Miss And Lean Condition Bank1
Brought home tonight a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0L 24 Valve V6. Bought it from a mechanic who's customer didn't want to put any more money into it. Has 185000 miles on it and it throwing the P0303 & P0171 codes. Cylinder 3 miss and Lean condition bank1.
Mechanic thinks it is a valve seat in the cylinder head next to the fire wall. Before I start replacing the cylinder heads with new remanufactured heads I plan on doing a compression test and leak down test.?
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F350 - No Start Condition After Truck Warms Up / ICP Location
Where the ICP is located on a 2006 f350? I have a no start condition after the truck warms up, everything else is fine. Started fluid works to crank, I suspect the ICP and /or Orings.
View 4 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 E450 - Low Voltage On Gauge With Good Battery - No Start Condition
2000 Ford 7.3 E450 120,000 miles...
I have changed the CPS twice
I have checked the resistance of the injectors at the IDM connector with a volt meter and the harness reports back good.
The truck will run with ether for a few seconds
I have changed the fuel filter.
The fuel bowl fills quickly
I have unplugged the ICP.
The truck is showing low voltage on the gauge with a good battery. Around 10v
I have connected my 200amp car starter and I never see over 10v. I plan to check the grounds, but I am at a loss.
Everything is difficult because this is a van body so space is limited. I have also plugged in the block heater for an hour and that hasn't made any difference. Where can I get the best price on an AE scanner.
Ford - Escape :: 2001 - Oil Leak / Burning Odor After Driving
In December, I took my 2001 Ford Escape (123,000 miles) to my mechanic to find the source of a burning odor that I'd been smelling after driving. My engine light had also gone on several times and the engine ran rough, especially after very wet weather. They attributed the engine light to a cylinder 4 misfire, and the smell to oil leaking from my valve cover gasket. They strongly recommended, due to the proximity of my coils and spark plugs to the valve cover gasket, that I have my (still original) spark plugs and coils replaced in all 6 cylinders.
Considering that one coil had already been causing problems, they said that it would save labor to do them while they were so close in proximity. Considering the age and mileage of my car, the fact that I'd like to keep it for a couple of years, and the fact that this is a trusted mechanic, I took their advice. I had all of these repairs done to the tune of 1800.
Following this repair, I still smelled the burning odor. I gave it a couple of weeks, thinking this may be recently-leaked oil burning off, and then brought it back to my mechanic. They could not easily identify the location of the leak, so they injected dye, and I returned a few days later.
Now I'm being told that the oil leak is from my timing cover gasket. In addition to that, they say that the oil pan gasket will need replacement, because of its proximity to the timing case. My valve cover will also have to be removed and possibly replaced, but they said that they can possibly reuse it since it was just replaced in December. There was some discussion of replacing the timing chain while they were in the case. As an aside, I have had no indication that my timing chain has any issues.
Ford - Windstar :: 1999 - Gas Odor When Stop After Driving Approximately 30 Miles Or More
After driving my Windstar approximately 30 miles or more when I stop and get out I can smell gas. I see no leaks or any gas build up any where. Is there something that maybe is causing too much fuel to be going to the injectors??? which probably would also be tied in with some of the smog equipment.
View 1 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Oil In Degas / Odor Of New Green Coolant
Found this tonight. Looks like oil in the degas. No smell of diesel, just the familiar odor of new green coolant. Cap was still holing pressure when I opened it.
Looks like I need to change the oil cooler. What is the best way to flush the cooling system out that has a leaking cooler and is contaminated with oil?