Ford - Focus :: Taillights And Dashlights Out / Trunk Randomly Kept Popping Open As Driving
Feb 20, 2013
I drive a 2006 Ford Focus. Last night, when I turned on my car, a number of things happened. (I should add that it was very cold, if that makes a difference)
1) My dashlights no longer work. The warning lights work fine, and I have checked the dial to make sure they are turned up, but I can no longer see what speed I am going when it is dark.
2) My taillights no longer work. One of the bulbs had previously blown, but now, the only ones that work are the rear blinkers.
3) My left driver side headlight is no longer working.
4) My trunk randomly kept popping open as I was driving. It has stopped doing so, but I am not sure if the problem is gone for good.
The mechanic wants to charge me $100 / hr just to even check the problem and indicated the diagnostics may take several hours. Having just replaced two tires, that option is far beyond my means.
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I have an '01 Focus Wagon. I've had this problem with the latching mechanism for a while, but it's gotten worse as time progresses. The latch catches and closes the door. The trunk isn't going to open, but it does not close fully. As a result, the door ajar light is always on my console. I used to fix it by manually closing the latch with by hand and then re-opening the latch. It closed almost every time after I did that. But now, even that is not working.
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My car makes a grinding/popping noise when driving that worsens when I go over bumps and that completely stops if I even touch the brakes. When I accelerate, the noise speeds up as well. I took it to a mechanic about three months ago and he said it was a loose bumper and that he secured it. After leaving, the noise got louder and happened more often. Sometimes the noise doesn't happen, while other times it does. My dad changed my front brake pads about a month ago so it can't be those. Is it possible that it is still my bumper making the noise? If so, I don't understand why it would stop when I brake.
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My sunroof will vent open and close by its self randomly while driving. Same problem occurs with my girlfriends 08 Passat. She said the dealership couldn't duplicate the issue, and when asked me about it I just laughed, shrugged my shoulders and said its probably just loose wiring.
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I have a a 2005 Focus, 199,000 miles. The battery light has been come on randomly. It doesn't seen to be related to any other event in the car. Things I've done to diagnose it...
I cleaned the battery cable connections before I started any diagnostics.
I have two code reader and no codes are being thrown.
I connected a multimeter to the battery while the car was idling in the driveway.
I got 13.8-14.1 volts as the car sat and ran. When the light came on no change on the meter.
I have a Scan Gauge that allows me to watch the voltage in real time. Four days and no change when the light came on. ~13.8-14.1 at idle and ~14.1-14.4 underway.
I have the Car Chip. I plugged it in drove for about 10 runs and the voltage trace was pretty flat on all runs, battery light on or off.
The only thing that is consistent is if the light is on and I rev the engine it goes out BUT they rpm when the light goes is inconsistent.
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Ford Focus Station Wagon 2006 - Seems to have electrical problem. Warning lights for check engine and ABS come on randomly. Also when car is parked and temperature is low, Clock time is lost and radio stations are lost. Is there some type of grounding issue?
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I have a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 (2D Hatchback) that has been randomly stalling since we bought it. There is no engine light, the dealership couldn't get it to stall and just gave it back. Another garage got it to stall and thought it might be the "idle-oxygen sensor" (not sure if I'm remembering the name correctly), but that didn't stop it from stalling either.
My wife is ready to dump it, but even spending a couple thousand a year on repairs is less than the grand total of a year's payments on a new car, insurance, etc. But it would be nice to fix it.
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I recently purchased a rebuilt 2014 Ford Focus ST3 with about 11,000 miles on it. The engine is a turbocharged 2.0L EcoBoost. I usually use 91 or 93 octane fuel, whichever is the highest available. - 6 speed manual and around 285 horsepower (with tune) is a lot of fun to drive. When I bought it, I had the mechanic that was rebuilding it put an Injen cold air intake on it. A few weeks after I got the car, I took the it to a local performance shop to get it tuned. The tune works great and added a bit of power to the car, but now I have a strange issue.
About 1 time out of 75 when I take off, the car throttle is limited and displays the message "Engine fault - service engine now". On one occasion the engine even stalled on me while crossing a highway. Note that this happens while shifting into and releasing the clutch ONLY on first or second gear. In order to get my car running properly again, I need to come to a complete stop and turn off the engine and then restart it. Sometimes the check engine light stays on, but it usually goes away after I restart. The only engine code that is shown is P106B, which has something to do with an incorrect reading on MAF sensor causing the throttle body to close.
Research online told me this issue is commonly caused by a damaged/improperly sealed intake filter or a crack in the intake itself, which changes the angle that air hits the MAF sensor. I have checked both of these and they are good. I have ruled out a bad throttle body control because if that is bad it usually throws another code indicating that it is faulty.
The only thing that I can think of, and I may be wrong, is that when the performance shop tuned my car they tuned it for a stock intake. This would mean that the car does not think it should be getting the airflow that it is and throttles it down to compensate.
I am not sure what to do at this point because (A) the issue impossible to replicate and seems to happen at random, and (B) I cannot just take it to the performance shop and tell them to fix it because I am not sure what is wrong in the first place.
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My new 2013 Ford Focus is a making a very, very strange noise every time I open the door. The Ford dealer said it's normal for the type of trans and handed me the following statement: " ....vehicles equipped with the Powershift DPS6 transmission may experience a clicking noise from the transmission after the doors are unlocked, opened and prior to the engine starting, for up to 3 min.
The noise is the shift motors waking up and preparing for startup. Attempts to eliminate the noise should not be made." To make it easier to understand the situation, the following link from a YouTube video explains EXACTLY what is occurring: [URL] .....
Hearing such a ridiculous sound/concept about waking up a transmission. Note, this noise even happens when you open the passenger door. Why does the transmission need to be waked up for someone getting in the passenger side. The car cannot be driven from here.
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So I'm having a tailgate issue. When I open my tailgate, sometimes the internal spring wants to keep it up, rather then letting it open down. It also makes an odd popping noise during operation from time to time......I don't see or feel anything broke in it.
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I believe this fuse has to do with radio and convenience options? 2004 mk4 GLI 1.8t. A few weeks back, the fused popped. I replaced it, and drove fine for a few more weeks. Shut off randomly, so I put a fuse in, try to start, it cranks like usual, but doesnt start. Tried with several different 20a fuses. It pops all of them the second I crank the car. Obviously there is a short somewhere. Where? Or know where fuse 37 goes?
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My 96 Metro for some reason is popping the 15 amp ignition fuse randomly. First time it happened I disconnected the alternator and replaced the fuse and it got me home. Pulled the alternator and had it tested and it tested fine. Put it back in and everything worked for about a month. It popped the fuse again while driving down the road. I disconnected the alternator again but this time the fuse still blew. I disconnected the coil replaced the fuse turned on the key and the fuse did not pop. I reconnected everything and it worked fine. Hasn't repeated itself in a week. I think there is a short somewhere. Just can't find it.
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Occasionally my Prius 2nd gen has no dashlights when I start it up. No speedometer no gas mileage no gas gauge and also the car won't turn off by pressing the power button I would have to hold the power button for 5 seconds. To get the dashlights on I would have to pull out the aux battery out and push it back in. That fixes it sometimes but not all the time. Sometimes I would just drive it like that and eventually it would come back in on its own the next morning. It's pretty annoying.
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I had a rather unfortunate incident this morning. I woke to find my trunk wide open and several items valued at over $700 missing!!! As you can imagine, this really ticks me off! What good is all this technology if it doesn't work?! And I know for a fact I locked the car too!
The worst thing is, there's absolutely nothing you can do about it, no way of knowing until after the fact. This was not a one time occurrence either; it happened once before a couple weeks ago. My neighbor woke me up first thing in the morning to inform me my trunk was wide open. Fortunately nothing had been touched the first time.
I'm worried the dealer will tell me there's nothing they can do about it because they cant duplicate the problem. So what? Does this now mean that the trunk has rendered it useless to leave *anything* of value in the car? Come to think of it, this also makes it easy to break in to the car as well; since all they would have to do is drop the rear seats and climb on through. The more I think about it, the worse it truly is and the more this ticks me off!
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My 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 has had a low idle (not unsteady) for about a year. Just thought I needed a tune-up. Recently, it started surging and bucking between 40 and 50 MPH. Seems to run fine under acceleration, but then when backing off the accelerator, it starts the surging/bucking. The check engine light is on constantly. A diagnostic pointed to the EGR valve, which I replaced, but it didn't solve anything.
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I was driving my 2002 Ford Focus, when the engine cut out & would not restart.The starter cranked the engine over, I had plenty of gas,and the battery is almost new.After getting the car towed home, I hooked up an OBD II Autoscanner.The scanner showed no codes, and said the car passed the scan test.
I was expecting a sensor code, a fuel pressure code or an ignition coil code. The car had done this once before - but the code reader had correctly shown a faulty crank sensor.
I don't see any loose wires or anything obvious that popped off while driving.BTW, it was a smooth road & I was only doing about 50 mph. Where should I start troubleshooting?What would cause the engine to stop but not show a code?
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2014 Elantra SE with premium package, I've had it a little over a month. Last week the ac plug stopped working in the passenger seat area. BF said have them check at first service.
Now the trunk wouldn't open with my key fob, or the spare. So I thought maybe a shopping bag handle got in the way. On the way home from the store, the trunk open light popped on randomly. Trunk wasn't open. Okay, that's odd...
Now the alarm has been going off randomly. 3 times in the past 2 hours, I'm wondering if it's a massive electrical problem waiting to happen.
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The glove box on my wife's '13 elantra keeps popping open. I guess the little plastic latch that keeps it up is not going into the hole far enough when it's closed, so after a while it slides out.
Would rather avoid a trip to the dealer (not even sure if it would be covered under warranty anymore, the car is over 3 years old).
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When closing my glove box, it will open back out. That's if I slap it on and let go. I noticed that there are 2 notches sliding out of the glove box. If I push them in by hand, they slide out slowly. So I tried to close the glove box and keep my hand on it for a couple of seconds for the notches to slide. It stays closed this way. I'm suspecting this is tied to the cold weather we're having lately. I hope I don't have to take it apart to re-lube it or anything like that.
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I sent my car out for a new clutch and timing chains cause I did not have the time to do my self. So when I got it back I try and get into the trunk and the key will not turn the lock so then I tried to do it with the switch and you could here it unlock but again still would not open.
Also I called the mechanic and he claims he never heard this b4 cause the key should always be able to turn.
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So my Passat 2.0T 4dr trunk will not open up on it's own.
When I press the trunk release button inside the car or on my key fob, the trunk latch releases but it will not fling up on its own.
How would I fix this? Do I spray WD40 on the latch bar??
I have bumper to bumper warranty on the car....Do I just take it to the dealers or is this something I can fix? Will the stealership try to charge me for this work?
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