Ford :: Buzzing / Rattling Noise When Clutch Engaged To Shift To 3rd Gear
Jul 17, 2016
My manual 2004 Ford Ranger XLT (4.0L) has been Buzzing/Rattling. (VIDEO LINK BELOW) She has 112k miles on her. Owned 1 month, no issues when I bought from my paps. Its my 1st manual so may have been a little hard on clutch 1st few days. Noise started abruptly 1 week ago when I engaged clutch to shift to 3rd. Its gotten worse over the few days and happens even when in gear. Its much more prominent from outside passenger window. Don't notice for 1st couple mins of driving & is intermittent but often. Noticeably louder when foot is taken off gas in motion. Does not make noise when idling. Generally only above 1500 RPM . Not coming from the back half so I don't think its the exhaust/heatshield
Heres the sound......
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I currently own an mk6 gti with a manual trans... as of late I've been noticing a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is not engaged.. once engaged the rattling stops completely .. it seems to be getting louder and louder .. I am worried this could eventually turn into something worse than just a rattling noise .. i had a friend mention it could be the "throwout bearing" ..
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Here's the scoop: 2 year old clutch & flywheel with 21,000 miles on them. Clutch master cyl. is full & not leaking. The clutch slave cyl. moves when the clutch is pressed & is also not leaking. The shifter linkage has been checked at the shifter and moves freely as it should.
I started the car, put it in gear, let the clutch out and there is no movement from the car regardless of the engine revs. The engine runs freely and does not die with the clutch engaged and the transaxle in gear. Putting it in ANY gear (including reverse) has no effect. The car will not move.
After turning the engine off I left the car in gear, left the e-brake disengaged, released the foot brake and the car stayed put. I then put the shifter into neutral, let the foot brake off and the car began to roll. I stopped, put the shifter back into 1st, let the foot brake off and the car was again stationary and did not roll. This tells me that the shifter linkage indeed works and that the car WILL go into gear. So, why won't the car move under power?
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I recently got my 09 ISF and had a few questions pertaining to some noises I'm hearing. Of course I'm hearing the ticking from the motor but until it causes any issues I can live with it.. My real questions deal with
A: When I go over a bump such as a pot hole cover or something that makes my suspension articulate quickly at low speed, I hear a rattling noise from what seems like the suspension / hub. If it makes any difference in on 2012 shocks and soft springs. (my extended warranty is kicking in soon so I hope that it doesn't play a roll in it as I'm sure they will be quick to deny it)
B: When I am coming to a stop or slowing down and the car shifts into first on its own (I think only in manual mode) there is a clunk / slight jerk sometimes... It may be coming from the rear end? Is it some type of locking or unlocking that's going on?
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I accidentally "popped the clutch" while parking in my driveway and now there's something wrong with the clutch pedal!!
I let the car stall out on accident and somehow had the clutch engaged while in gear and forgot or something and when I released the pedal while still in gear, the car tried to start, but I pushed the clutch in instead of letting it start and now the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor, there is no tension, like a spring came loose, but this is a hydraulic clutch so there wouldn't be a spring, right? What did I do?? And how can I fix it?
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS
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I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
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My manual 2004 Ford Ranger XLT (4.0L) has been Buzzing/Rattling. (VIDEO LINK BELOW) She has 112k miles on her. Owned 1 month, no issues when I bought from my paps. Its my 1st manual so may have been a little hard on clutch 1st few days. Noise started abruptly 1 week ago when I engaged clutch to shift to 3rd. Its gotten worse over the few days and happens even when in gear. Its much more prominent from outside passenger window. Don't notice for 1st couple mins of driving & is intermittent but often. Noticeably louder when foot is taken off gas at slow speeds. Also theres an intermittent squeal that started just days after I got her.. Idk if its brakes cause the noise actually disappears with the slightest pressure on the brake.
Video Link : [URL] .....
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My '06 Prius just started making this noise. the check engine light is NOT on. I haven't really heard this noise before in my recollection. I just got an oil change 3 days ago and when I got the oil change there was no indication from the dealership that there were any issues. The engine only makes this noise when the combustion engine is engaged. I can't see any wobbling on the belt drives or and loose parts in the engine. The spin appears to be coming from the engine block or around the pullys for the belt. My first thought is that it could be dirty gas because I first heard this sound after filling up. I am 300 miles from home and have to drive home today.
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So I just put a new clutch in my 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l engine and a 5 speed T5OD transmission. The car will shift through all gears fine when turned off, but when I start it in neutral and push the clutch in, it won't shift into any gear. I can start it in first gear though with the clutch pedal in and it moves forward VERY slowly. The trans has enough fluid, and I already pulled up on the pedal to self adjust. Not exactly sure what else could be wrong.
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I have a 2001 Celica GT with about 140k miles on it and a manual tranny.
Over the last couple months, the clutch or transmission has been making a weird rattling sound when in gear. It's mostly while not accelerating, and it's not a consistent rattle - kinda like something is loose in there. It's not super loud, just barely and annoyingly noticeable. When the clutch is in and you just rev the engine there is no noise. Driving down the road if you put the clutch in and coast there is no noise.
I recently checked the transmission oil. Oil level was fine, but it was smelly as heck, so I replaced it. No bits or metal or anything in the oil.
The clutch in the car has never been replaced and is on its way out - I'm just wondering if its worth it to repair the car. I took it to a local Toyota shop and they thought the transmission needed replacement. This was the same shop that diagnosed my spun rod bearing as a valve issue, so I'm kinda skeptical
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This is on an 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l and a T5OD tranny. I installed a new clutch and now when the car is on, it won't shift into any gear. But I can start the car in gear and let go of the clutch and it moves forward just fine. I took everything back apart and checked the clutch plate and it is in there correctly. The clutch fork is completely on the little pivot ball.
The throw out bearing is the same size and everything as the old one. I pulled up on the clutch pedal to self adjust. Still not going into gear when the car is on.
I have heard that I might have air in my clutch line. But this clutch is cable actuated, not hydraulic. I have no master cylinder. Like I said before, I already pulled up on the clutch to self adjust and still no luck.
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We have a 2002 Maxima SE, 6 speed manual with 127,000 + miles. The noise is similar to what we used to hear from the spokes, when we attached a playing card or piece of cardboard to the wheels of our bikes. The noise only presents itself when the clutch is engaged and the wheels start rolling. It happens in forward and reverse.
The dealer replaced the right wheel bearing assembly and both outer tie rods. But that did not eliminate the noise. They then fingered the transmission. The transmission folks said it was not the transmission or the clutch release bearing.
Confused, we just keep driving the car. Whatever it is doesn't appear to affect the driveability - yet. The clutch engages smoothly, the shifing is smooth and it does not pop out of gear. We've been thinking of selling the car, but this noise has to be resolved first.
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I have my suspicion about what is the culprit, and well, the likelihood of it contuing to work.
Occasionally when I am at a stop and try to shift into gear with the clutch depressed to the floor, it does not want to go into gear. So far, I have been able to wiggle the shifter around, try a few different gears then go back to first and it works. Also at a stoplight today, with the clutch depressed to the floor for a few minutes with the car in 1st, after about 3-5 minutes the car started to slowly creep forward.
What are your suspects on this one?
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Just noticed that upon start up and idle ac blows ice cold. 5 miles down the road it starts to blow warmer. I've misplaced my manifold set. I did have a low pressure gauge from a long time ago.
Low pressure was would stay around 40psi then slowly over 5 seconds or so drop down to 20 hold for about 10 second and climb back up. All while just at idle.
That's after i added a can of refrigerant. After the second can it seems to have stabilized at around 40 psi. Which is still a little low for being almost 90* outside.
I know with just one reading its like reading a book and only reading every other page.
Here is my main question. Is the compressor suppose to cycle? I've always been under the impression it does. So i deemed a bad pressure switch possibly right off the bat. After doing a google search i see some are stating that it runs continuously.
The only time in a 15 min span my compressor kicked off is when i turned the control to "OFF" or when i unplugged the pressure switch. Is this right? Seems like i would burn up the compressor...
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1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
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I just recently picked up a 87 F250 with a 6.9 and a ZF5 trans. The PO replaced the clutch, and mentioned that he replaced the clutch fork too
Since I bought the truck, I've had some nasty rattling noises. It rattles when in neutral, and stops when I put the clutch in. The noise also comes back on occasion when decelerating at highway speeds, in 2nd as soon as I stop accelerating, and at low speeds in 3rd.
What is causing this?
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My buddy has a 2000 1.8t 5 speed wagon, it got towed the other day and now it is having issues shifting. I doubt that it is related to the towing. If you start the car in neutral, you cant get it to shift into any gear with the clutch pressed. Even if you try to shift with the clutch not pressed, it physically wont go into gear, it wont even grind. it just wont go.
However, it goes into gear with the car off. Your an start the car in gear with the clutch pressed, and can drive as normal....until you need to shift. at which point, it does as described above. He had a shop tell him that the clutch is bad, but it does not slip. I was thinking perhaps the shift linkage, but I don't know a whole lot about these transmissions, I am only well acquainted with mk2/mk3 style 020's.
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I am experiencing a buzzing rattle coming from the left corner of the dashboard in the area near the horizontal speaker. It's not loud but it's annoying. It only happens when the car is moving. It doesnt seem to be affected by the audio system being powered on or off. The best thing I can think of to describe it the sound a Geiger counter makes, but not as loud.
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How to get rid of that stupid buzzing noise from the exhaust every time it shifts in higher RPM, It freaking sounds like a Honda and it is driving my crazy. I did the Exhaust flap mod but it didn't go away.
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Just went to leave my apartment and I get at the first traffic light and put it into neutral. Light turns green and I try to put it into first and it won't let me... In fact I cannot shift into any gear while the car is started. Put the flashers on and I am stumped. There was also more resistance in the clutch pedal as soon as this happened.
I turned the car off and tried wiggling it into any gear. For some reason while the car is off I can put it into any gear. So I had to put the car in first gear and start it and limp it home. I had to rev the engine to about 2,800 - 3,000 RPMS in order to get the car to bite and take off. Shifting into any other gear while driving was a hassle and it felt like there was a lot of resistance.
Just did some quick Vwvortex recon and some people are saying that it is a broken pressure plate? Pressure plate welds itself to the clutch? Or possibly a throwout bearing? Also what Transmission is in a 2003 Passat 1.8T Engine code AWM.
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I have a grinding/Rattling noise coming out of the front area of the transmission when the clutch is disengaged (up), noise stops when clutch is pushed in. 99 (6/98) F-350 7.3, manual, 4x4, 192xxx mi. Just came out of the shop with the following done to it:
New Power Force clutch kit, twice.
Transmission Rebuilt twice.
Different rebuilt transmission.
Rear main seal r/r.
After first time in shop the noise was apparent. about 3,000 miles were driven with no change, brought back to shop, where transmission was gone through again as well as a new clutch set, same noise still present! Another transmission was rebuilt and installed, same noise!!!
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