Ford :: 2013 - While Starting From Stop Doesn't Go Immediately
Apr 19, 2013
I have a new 2013 Ford Fiesta with less than 2000 miles on it. While I am at a stop sign, I step on the gas, and the car does not go immediately. It feels like my foot slips off the gas pedal, although I know that is not the case because my foot is still on the pedal! I have to ease off the gas pedal just a bit until the car will go into first gear and get some momentum. It only happens every once in a while, not every time I am at a stop sign.I checked with the dealer and of course he said it is the way I'm driving it. He said I don't need to step on the gas like it is a sports car. I'm not driving it like Mario Andretti. I'm just trying to get around town with a bit of efficiency. If you are familiar with Chicago city driving, you know the drivers behind you don't have time to wait for my little Ford Fiesta to eventually kick into gear. I don't have any issues with it going from 3rd to 4th or 2nd to 3rd gear.
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I almost always use my cruise control. When I turn off my car then restart under 2 minutes, the cruise control doesn't work UNTIL I stop completely.
When I turn off my car over 2 minutes then restart, cruise control works fine.
Is something not resetting right or something? It doesn't bother me.. I just have to restart my car after 2 minutes so my cruise control works.
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I always have my car in DRL, and just noticed last night to today that it doesn't turn on immediately when I start the car, however it does seem to turn on a few minutes after the car starts rolling. I'm sure before it turned on immediately with the car. Maybe 12v going weak?
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I have a 1999 Chevy Prizm that I'm trying to keep as long as possible since I'm now working very part-time hours. For the past week or two I put the ignition key in, and can't get it to immediately turn. I check to make sure the car's really in Park, push the key in further, pull it out just a hair...between each step I try to get the key to turn and start the car. After 4 or 5 tries it does turn and the car starts right up.
I've tried both my "regular" key and my spare, thinking maybe one was a little worn and not fitting quite right. I'm getting worried that the time will come when I won't be able to get the key to turn. Is this a problem with the lock part of my ignition, or is there some glitch that's telling the car it's not in Park even though it is?
I just had to spend a good chunk of my emergency money to get tires and brake work on this car so it could pass inspection, and when I told the man at the garage about the key problem he shrugged and made some vague comment about old cars having problems.
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I've got a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4, 4.0 L I6, automatic, 169k miles, that often cranks but doesn't start up. When I cut the power and try again, it starts up right away. I'm concerned this workaround will one day not work and I'll be left stranded, so I'd like to fix this if it's cheap and easy. The symptoms suggest either a lack of fuel or lack of spark due to an electrical problem, so I replaced the ASD (auto shutdown) and Fuel Pump relays, but they made no difference. The other two relays - Starter and Cooling Fan - seemed irrelevant. What this could be? Maybe the crank angle sensor? (I'm not even sure where that's located.)
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I have a 2007 e-150 ford van with only 38,000 miles on it, with i believe a 4r70w transmission. The problem started yesterday. Going in reverse, it would go, but as soon as you take the foot of the gas, it would stop immediately, plus very difficult until it would start rolling, I think this is called engine breaking. Also, in Park, revving the engine, the trans makes a very strange noise, and wants to creep up (move forward) with more gas you give it. neutral does the same thing. When i drive the van, it seems like it switches gears fine, and does not make any noise, but the OD light does not show when you press the button. I did check the fluid, nice and red/pink color no smell at all. No leaks under the car, and the trans is totally dry all around. I do not show a check engine light on. This morning my friend came over with his scanner and hooked it up to my van's plug. It showed no codes of anything wrong. What might be wrong with the trans? My friend seems to think it might be a solenoid problem, I sort of think it might be a shifting problem, but i am no mechanic.
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When I'm in a garage and start the car, with the headlights on 'AUTO', they go on immediately, even before the engine turns on and starts running. Is this bad for the wiring in any way?
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About once or twice a month my 2000 Trailblazer dies immediately on starting. Will not start again for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes rest it always restarts. Never dies while running. Have had fuel pump replaced about five years ago. Condition has been occurring about that long though and has progressed from once each 3 or 4 months to its current rate. Can occur after setting all night or after having just run and shut down for a very short time. Natural assumption would be fuel pump but as it always restarts on second attempt after 10 minute rest is there any possibility it could be a computer malfunction that takes that long to reset?
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1981 Mercedes 380 SL. Experienced a problem this week, car started but immediately died and would not restart. 36 hours later tried again with same result. Only 89K miles, fuel pump replaced a year ago.
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I got the clutch replaced on my 1993 Toyota Corolla (~160,000mi.) by a shop and immediately afterward started having really bad front end vibration problems. I took it back to the shop & they said that changing the clutch may have caused already worn out motor mount(s) to be stressed and that was causing the vibration. They want time with the car to figure out which motor mount it might be. My question is, is it reasonable that a properly performed clutch change caused the motor mount problems? Or is this the result of sloppy work? I realize the car is old, but I have always maintained it well since I bought it in 2004.
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Having that flash on the dash? Truck was running fine and the buzzer when off and dash said I think -- when safe stop and shut off engine immediately. Scared the scr-p out of me so not sure if that was word for word. Jump on the binders and got it off the road and called a wrecker. Now it's at the dealer waiting for them in the morning. Checked oil and don't see any leaks. Now I have lost my confidence in the truck. 42000 miles on it.
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I have an 02' Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 (not flex fuel) .I have replaced the battery, alternator, sparkplugs/wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. All over time and now when i try to start the van it turns over strong sometimes starting then stalls out immediately. When I try to crank it sounds like metal on metal. Check engine light stays on,but i dont have an OBD reader.
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I have an '01 Prius, 185,000 miles. A few years ago, it developed an engine (?) knock immediately after starting; disappears after 30 sec. It has gotten progressively louder and now runs very rough during those 30 sec. After that, just hums along.
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On Thursday t2 weeks ago (11th) I had my 10 K service done. the next thursday (18th) I was pulling into a parking lot and a warning light came on and the screen in the dash said "Steering Column Lock Defective" I parked shut the car off tried to turn the wheel and it didn't lock. Went to the store did what I had to do came out and tried to start the car. car started but immediately died and same message was on screen. Had car towed to dealer.
They said the key somehow deprogrammed itself but they will keep the car for the weekend to make sure that was it and there was no electrical short that wiped the key memory. Got car back Monday (22nd). Was driving car home tonight (24th) car got same message on the highway. Drove the car home and shut it off. Immediately tried to restart it and it started. shut car off again and waited for all the lights to go off inside. Car starts then dies immediately. Tried spare key and same thing.
I work 6 days a week and need this car to run. I can't keep going back and forth to the dealer. Oh and another weird thing, I had my locks set to sound the horn when they lock. After I got that warning light it doesn't anymore.
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I experience a sound, like a one stroke scrape of a piece of cardboard across sandpaper, after driving off 20/30 feet after starting the T-reg. I discussed this with the VW tech, and he said something about the drive by wire system engages something, and creates the scraping sound, VW thinks this is normal, and there is no fix for this.
What is this scraping sound? The sound happens once and only once every start of a journey, happens even when I am going straight ahead, and at slow speeds (about 20km/hr).
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Stop immediately brake failure fault on Passat? Mine is a w8 4 motion and is riding a wrecker to the dealer.. We'll see what he says...
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(2013 Camry XLE) - About a week or so ago I smelled a whiff of antifreeze. I checked and there were no obvious leaks or puddles and the odor went away almost immediately. It happened again 2 days ago, and although there was no noticeable loss of coolant I decided this time I decided to get a pro to check out the car. I took it into Toyota and they gave it a once over. I was informed that this is normal - the engine will vent something once in a while and that is what I was/am smelling. That doesn't make an once of sense - venting antifreeze?
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I have had my new Santa Fe Elite for three weeks. On three occasions I have found the Electronic Park Brake does not immediately release as it should on takeoff. Why it stays on some times? My vehicle is Right Hand Drive.
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I'm having problems starting my truck. The second it catches, it just dies right away. It doesn't stay running even if I keep giving it throttle. Although when I did try to start it 5-10 times the other day, one of those times, it started and stayed on for about 5 seconds then died again. What to check? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this vehicle, but I would consider myself mechanically inclined since I've worked with newer cars and smaller engines before.
Also I don't know if this might be related, but I recently changed the oil & oil filter in the truck (after not having changed it for a long time).... and it was a castrol full synthetic high mileage oil. It ran and shifted a lot better for about a week before this starting problem happened. I checked the oil level and it's still perfect so I know it's not leaking oil or anything like that. Just wanted to throw this in there just in case.
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Lately my backup camera doesn't turn off when I shift from Reverse to Drive, I have to put the truck in Park and then go to Drive to make it turn off. Is this a software update problem?
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2003 PT Cruiser won't start immediately after short trip with a short stop. Always does start after turning the key and holding it to start position. The check engine light is often on and the code is for a cam shaft sensor or resistor sensor. A companion problem is the cruise control. If the check engine light is OFF and I use the cruise control, it works fine for a while and then the check engine light comes on at the same instant the cruise control turns off. Are these 2 issues connected? How much should it cost to have the sensor replaced? The car always stays running once it starts and the problem occurs randomly. What are the consequences of not repairing it?
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