Ford :: 2011 F250 Sometimes Will Not Start - No Click
May 5, 2014
I have a 2011 Ford F250 and sometimes it wont start. It wont even try to start (no click or anything). The battery is fine and according to the local ford dealer (who cant figure out the problem) the starter is fine too. The vehicle has been towed to the dealership 3 times, and they either cant figure it out, or it randomly ends up starting for them and they say that they cant figure it out unless it is not working. I've tried starting it in Neutral to no avail.
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I have a 2011 Ford F250 and sometimes it wont start. It wont even try to start (no click or anything). The battery is fine and according to the local ford dealer (who cant figure out the problem) the starter is fine too. The vehicle has been towed to the dealership 3 times, and they either cant figure it out, or it randomly ends up starting for them and they say that they cant figure it out unless it is not working. I've tried starting it in Neutral to no avail.
Here is the additional info:
1) It is a gas engine
2) It seems to only act up in winter
3) When it is acting up, it seems to me like it is not recognizing that it is in park because even with the key out of the ignition I can still turn the stearing wheel...it doesn't lock out, although its very difficult to turn.
4) I have gotten it to start B4 by slowly going thru all the gears and back to park several times...but I think that may have been just coincidence or luck.
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This is my first dual-bat vehicle. 2011 F250 with ~60K. Dual alternators. Bought in August of 2010. One battery(passenger side) was leaking pretty badly in ~2012 and was replaced under warranty along with the harness as it was corroded.
Yesterday, I drove the truck quite a bit on ~20-25 mile trips and left idling during a couple of them while inside Home Depot. No indication of any trouble.
Today, would not remote start, and when I put the key in and turned it to the on position, the dash lit up for about 3 seconds but once it started waking everything up, it all went dead. Start results in a faint click. I got 11.2V from a trusted meter. I've got my 20A charger hooked to one side right now.
Is there any special trick or attachment procedure to charge a dual battery setup? What about jumping off? Does one bad battery cause both to "act" bad? If I can determine which battery is causing the issue, am I safe to replace just that one, or should I get two new batteries?
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So I bought a Lifted 1999 F250 a couple weeks ago and last night the thing wouldn't start. The battery connections are not perfect but there's power going to the truck because it will give me the wait to start light and all. When I try to start it there's one really loud click and certain lights like the clock momentarily turn off when it clicks. Tried hitting the starter didn't work. Tried putting a jump pack to the starter and it didn't spark like expected.
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My 2000 F-250 V10 won't start has a new alternator and new starter all it does is Click when I turn the key?
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My 2011 F-250 diesel will not start when it gets to be about 85 to 90 degrees. In cold weather (I live in South Florida, so by "cold" I mean 50 to 70 degrees) it starts up just fine and gives no problems whatsoever. However once the summer months hit it more often than not it will not start. I've taken it to the local Ford dealer and when they run diagnostics it doesn't report any problems. I admittedly don't use the truck very often and it will at times sit for a couple months without use. Could that be a cause of the problem? What the problem might be?
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When I start the cold engine mine makes a loud whining noise. I took it to the Ford dealer and they said that the sound is normal and that it's the turbo's. I think I'll take it to another ford dealership and get a second opinion, The service guy has the same truck as me and his was making the same noise on cold start up and they told him it was the turbo's also. Something's not right about the noise.
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My 2011 F-250 just started having a weird heater problem. My truck heater gets up to temp just fine but after cruising down the highway for about 15 minutes or so it starts blowing out cool air. I can turn the controls to defrost and back again and it blows warm, not hot but warm then cool again. It just started a couple of days ago. Temp gauges show normal temp also.
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I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 gas engine. I have been having a problem that the dealership says there is nothing they can do and have never heard about.
After the truck sits all night I get in and drive it for 10-15 min. It gets warm and I get out turning it off. When I come back about 15-45 min later I start it up and go to leave. As I pull out and start to accelerate in first gear the truck goes to an idle for about 2-3 seconds. I push the gas pedal and get no response. After a couple of seconds it picks up wherever you have the gas pedal. If you have the pedal to the floor it jumps you forward. This is not putting on any lights and the computer is not throwing any codes. According to the dealership the computer is telling them there is nothing wrong.
This has happened 12 times in the past 6 months. It has happened since I bought the truck. I have just started documenting it as of 6 months ago. It is not something I can make it do on command. After it happens once it doesn't seem to do it again for a week or two. I have 31000 miles on the truck. The dealership has had it for 4 days now and can't seem to get it to happen for them.
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I have a 2011 Escape. When I punch in the entry 5 digit code on the door post, I hear a small "click" and the parking lights come on. The door locks, however, do not operate. When I use the key fob the locks do work. What the problem is?
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Just picked up my F250 a few days ago and it's been great up until yesterday when I hopped in to start her up and nothing. It's a brand new battery and all lights worked, but the dash was dead. I attempted in vain for an hour or so to diagnose as to why this was happening and just happened to open the door with the key in the ignition and hit the door lock button....all of a sudden the truck starts beeping and the message on the dash said "to disable alarm start vehicle". I turned the key, the dash lighted up and away I went. What I may have done to cause this or has it happened to you? I'm thinking it's something with the key fob but not sure.
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I have a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstroke. It has 107,000 miles on it.
The other day I was driving it down the highway and it got a Reduced Engine Power message on the dash. It lost power and I got off the highway to the service road. Then it died on me.
Had to get it pushed to a station then towed home. It wouldn't start. The starter cranks over for a few seconds but engine won't start. Checked all the fluid levels and batteries. My DEF fluid was only a half gallon low.
What I have noticed is that the DEF level indicator hasn't reminded me that it was low for over 4-5 months now. I had been putting in about 2-3 gallons every 3 months or so. But it hasn't reminded me lately and I just forgot. This is my first diesel.
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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1980 F-250, 351M. Battery tests OK - 500 cold cranking amps. New starter, new starter solenoid. When I turn the key to ignition, small click under the hood on driver's side. Turn to start, the starter solenoid clicks once, but no turnover. After that, all electrical is dead - no lights, no horn, no radio, no clicks. Turn the key to accessory, gauges work, but no radio, etc. Turn the key to ignition, nothing. Tried jumping from another car, and the cables melted.
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I have a 01 f250, I've only had it a couple of months. It has 300k miles on it and has its share of problems. I knew that going in and I just bought it for a work truck around the farm and honestly I don't expect it to work perfectly. But since I have had it there are times where it will not crank, it will only click under the dash and then a second click under the hood. It will do that in the mornings a lot and by the afternoon it will crank. I found that jumping the 2 larger wires on the starter solenoid bypasses the problem and it will turn over and crank. So I replaced the solenoid thinking that was the problem, but it still does the same thing. I know the batteries are good.
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Only got a click when turning key, in Park or Neutral. Made sure I had >12.4V from battery. Jumped starter solenoid with a remote start switch across main power line to starter and the 's' post, crank pulley almost moved, but didn't rotate. Removed belt, all pulleys rotate, but could not budge the crank pulley with a short breaker bar/socket, rotating clockwise from front. Removed starter, that upper bolt is a super pain! Not even sure I'll get it back in. Jumped starter solenoid again on the bench using a battery and jumpers, not the best connections, starter hesitated little bit, but opened up fully a few times, so I'm thinking it's ok (even though the power line from the solenoid to starter motor needs re-taping). Tried rotating flywheel from starter hole, no good leverage point, but no movement. Before I re-install the starter, how much torque should I be putting on the front crank pulley? Some say it should move easy enough cause the starter isn't that powerful. Others say remove the spark plugs to reduce compression? This truck is new to me, so I unfortunately have no history.
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I picked up a 2016 F250 Powerstroke in the first of March. I owned a 2011 before and loved it.
The 2016 has been great so far, but I've noticed a sound that wasn't present in my 2011.
When the transmission is warmed up, I get a "cla-click" sound from the transmission area when sifting from park to reverse. It doesn't do it all the time and I can only hear it, not "feel" it.
This AM I heard a similar click sound when I came to a complete stop. I only heard it while stopping, not while taking off. I could repeat it almost every time I stopped. I was in drive the whole time I heard the click sound while stopping.
What it may be? I know sounds are one of the hardest things to communicate/diagnose.
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We got a ton of snow dumped on us today and for some reason my 4WD has decided not to work this year. I have a 2000 F250 4WD Triton V10. The hubs click into the lock position and the dial on the dash lights up 4x4 but I am definitively not engaging into 4WD. I'm pissed because this is specifically the reason i bought a 4WD and it's failing me. I can't find a fuse panel diagram to save my life however all the fuses in the interior of truck look to be fine.
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I have a real nice 2000 excursion v10. All great then dead, worn t start. The starter goes click cross starter it goes click, cross selonoid goes click. My anti theft light goes out. Battery is good fuses are good it just will click..could it be the ant theft needs to be reset and if so how would i do it?
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I have a 2000 ex 7.3 and a couple of days ago I had the batteries die on me. Quick boost and it fired right up, drove it around for the rest of the day no issues at all. Yesterday I had a really hard time with the first start of the day, turned over slowly, but caught itself and fired up. I plugged in my OBDII adapter and fired up Torque on my phone and saw that I had 14.3 V about 30 seconds after the truck started. Took my father to pick up his car about 10 mins away, shut the truck off, and again, it turned over slow, was a hard start.
Drove it around for about 45 mins after that and everything seemed great. Today it won't even start...the WTS light comes on, everything sounds and seems normal, then when I go to start the truck it just "clicks"...Turn the headlights on and try to start it, and the lights don't even dim. So I checked and cleaned the battery cables and the starter cable...still no start. What it might be? I'm hoping that its a ground somewhere but wouldn't know where to being looking..
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2011 SE V6 w/25k miles
Lately I've noticed that when I first back my car out of the garage if I push on the brakes it makes a tap/clack noise from the front end. It sounds like it's possibly on the passenger side but it's hard to tell.
It will also make a similar noise if I'm braking relatively hard, just before I come to a stop.
It almost sounds like the pads are moving very freely on the guides and possibly moving or shifting. The brakes work fine and no other noises or issues with the car.
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