Ford :: 2006 - Blinking Engine Light Came On Then Stopped
Mar 15, 2015
It's a Ford Freestar 2006, with 73,000 miles. We had to have the catalytic converter replaced within the first year we had it at no cost to us do to a solid engine light that we immediately took care of. The original was found to be defective. The only symptom it had was it would run rough at around 40-45miler per hour. After the converter was replaced it ran fine w no issues. The in Dec of 2014 it came back on after I had been driving for over 30mi and then idulling for 20min in a school line. I called the shop immediately and took it in the next business day...I didn't drive it at all that weekend. The mechanic checked it out and found nothing wrong with it.
Our best guess was I had let the gas run down to low (first time ever I had driven w it's the idot light on). They did an oil change and still everything checked out ok. During the transmission fluid check they told me I should hear the transmission fluid flushed and replaced in the near future but it wasn't needed right away. The van has done fine until this last week. We've had a lot of rain and fog...my husband ran it for a few days and said it did fine. Then this morning I took my husband to his truck...we had been driving for 40min with speeds up to 50mph.I had idyldeld for about 15min while he loaded his truck with no rough running. NO ISSUES. It was raining and very foggy!!! After I dropped him off and went back the exact same way, about 10min later and going about 50mph suddenly the check engine light started to blink.
I wasn't in a safe place to pull over, so I slowed down, put my hazards on, and vegan praying. I was going to try and get to the Sheetz which was about a 1/4 mile ahead of me. It blinked for 3min and it was off. The van never ran rough, jerked, shook, or anything. I Drove it further to church and asked for one of the guys to check it out. NO CODE!!! Said to keep an eye on it and call the er mechanic on Mon morning. Keep it to speeds under 40. Is it truly safe to drive to church in the morning and take the kids to school????? Was it a false code??? Is it the transmission???? I've never had a van this messed up!
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I have a 2006 f250 5.4 4wd with 5r110w trans. Check engine light was blinking and then one day the tranny just stopped working in all gears. Engine code p0751 came up, shift solenoid "A". Changed it, code went away and still no gears. Checked pump pressure, good in all gears, all I can think of now is TCM....
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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Just bought 2007 Gs 350 in Dec 2015 with 60k miles. The other day I filled up with gas and drove to work. On the way home check engine light started blinking, check VSC appeared on display screen and traction light came on, car ran rough, and wouldn't accelerate. Got home and searched the net.. So I removed gas cap... No change.. Then removed neg battery cable for 10 min. Fixed problem for about 10 min. Then it all happened again. Next morning took it to Lexus dealer. The rep called and said it gave misfire cylinder 3. They said they checked valve springs and they are good, exchanged coil pack with different cylinder and still misfire #3. He said has to be injector so they want to replace injector ....
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After removing dpf and egr check engine light is blinking. DPF and EGR were turned off in ECU. I rewrited ECU 4 times with different parameters that was working on other Sonatas.
Still after a while p2002 error comes out and check engine flashes.. few times in day Sonata is starting regeneration (I don't understand how because DPF is turned off).
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I have the keyless wireless option and one of my key fobs stopped working so I put a new battery in. So now instead of blinking once in the upper right-hand corner when I push the button and working properly instead the little red button in the corner links three times and nothing else happens . I even switched batteries from the one that still works to the one that does not work in case I got a bad new battery but no changes on either key.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Highlander (130K miles)Recently, the A/C stopped working.
What happens: 1) With the car running and A/C off, turn on A/C2) A/C starts blowing and begins to be cool3) About 10 seconds later, the LED on the A/C control knob starts to blink and stops blowing cool air
A few diagnosis items:
1) Between steps 1 and 2 above, putting a PSI gauge on the low side port shows about 40 psi, which I believe to be normal.
2) After step 3, the PSI gauge shows about 130 psi, which I think is way too high.
3) Replaced magnetic clutch relay with no improvement.
4) When step 3 occurs, a light grinding noise occurs but then stops.
5) No diagnosis codes on the OBD2 port.
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I have a 2009 Matrix. The AC just stopped working as we were going down the road. The voltage at the compressor was 2.6 volts. the same voltage at the HVAC module I don't hear the compressor kick on at all, engine speed doesn't change when the AC button is toggled on and off.
The AC light stays on steady not blinking. I am pretty sure that there is enough refrigerant in the system.
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I changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
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I have a Sonata v6 3.3 2007 Its passenger Air Bag light is on, how much its gonna cost me to fix it ?? and sometimes when i stop at the signal light the oil light starts blinking, why is that, and as soon as I start driving it goes away.
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The airbag light in my 06 sonata has been on for the past couple days. And today I noticed when I was driving the car by myself the passenger seatbelt light was blinking and the passenger airbag light off bag wasn't lit? Even though there was no one in the passenger seat? I'm just wondering if there was ever a recall and if I should take it to the dealership.
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On my 2006 Ford F150 2WD, v6 automatic, the overdrive dash lamp is blinking, I get a engine light and the code I get is a P0743. That indicates the solenoid or wiring is bad, but everything works just fine. The transmission is running fine, clear fluid - no odor. The overdrive works and the truck shifts like new. When I start, the "OD-OFF" light immediately starts blinking and never changes. I can activate the OD normally and it doesn't effect the blinking light.
Where to start? I suspect that since all is functioning well, the issue is with the signal to the ecm? By the way, I can clear the code so that the engine light goes off, but the "OD-OFF" light remains blinking.
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Intermittently blinking check engine light in a 2003(?) Ford Escape. I received a call from my fiance, who's about 45 minutes into a two hour drive. On the interstate, her check engine light started blinking, so she pulls off the interstate to a gas station (the light was blinking for maybe five minutes before she could stop, according to her). After she was off the interstate, but before she had turned the engine off, the blinking stopped.
She called me, and I looked up and directed her to an AutoZone about a half mile from where she was. Told her to drive there, and have them to try to read any codes from the engine. She drives over, engine light stays off the entire time. They hook up the reader, and there aren't any codes. My question is, if the check engine light stops blinking, and there aren't any codes for the reader, is the car safe to drive, or will she destroy the cat if she keeps going? Also, it's raining, if that matters for any reason.
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Twice now (and maybe a third time once I start my van again) we've had problems with the van chugging and then the service engine light blinking. Both times it happened in the past, we took it to a mechanic who said it needed a tune-up - new spark plugs, wires, etc. I'm curious as to why this keeps happening. Mileage is around 105K. It first happened last summer, second time was in December. Now it's March. What could cause this problem to repeat?
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I have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
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My friend has a 2006 F-450 and he said the Tow/Haul light blinks and the shifts are real slow. He has stopped towing now and it still drives.
I have read everything from toasted tranny to chaffed wire harness across tranny crossmember to the TFT sensor. My guess is the TFT sensor given his symptoms. If I am right the sensor is just to the rear of where the dipstick comes thru the tranny case. 1/4 turn and pull it out. Kinda like a bulb I guess.
Another question, is it necessary to replace the harness while in there as well? Is the Connection listed below the harness I am asking about? I found these parts on a thread from here:
Sensor (1): 3C3Z-7H141-AA;
Connection (1) 4C3Z-7G276-AA;
Gasket (1): 3C3Z-7C155-DA;
Fluid (10): XT-6-QSP
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I've got a 1992 Ford Ranger 2.3L with about 240,000 miles on it. The check engine light started blinking on and off pretty regularly so I pulled the OBD1 continuous memory codes and came up with this.
327 - EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage
328 - EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected
334 - EGR closed valve voltage high
I can't say these codes mean a whole lot to me besides I've got issues with my EGR valve and possibly the EGR valve position sensor. I was thinking I'd start by replacing the EGR valve.
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1. About march 1, my check engine light came on- took it to oreileys for a scan and said Speed Sensor A (cannot remember code), I was not overly concerned to fix it very very busy.
*Drove about 800 miles no further issues except the annoying CE light*
2. ABS comes on a few days ago
3. Today the truck, 4 miles from home decides it wont let RPM's get above 2500, and 40mph. It slightly hard shifted once.
Truck has 97000 miles and is a 1999 V10 has NEVER had any tranny shifting issues or engine issues....
4. Check tranny fluid when we get home it does not smell burnt and is red- its not even that warm...
I have read a couple places that a VSS can cause this? But I never noticed my speedometer acting up EXCEPT for the day the CE light came on- which there was a lot of ice and tires were spinning and speedometer said 0.
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While driving home yesterday my AFS Light started blinking. Middle of the afternoon, lights aren't on, and boom, it just starts. So I get home thinking maybe the leveling arm in the rear got loose and crawl under the car, nope, that looks fine. Check the front, no issue there. So... Sure enough the lights don't auto level or 'look' around turns any more.
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2 days ago i drove to a store, went in and came back out, started the car up and the EPS light was on. It would switch from either blinking or solid on. The steering still to this point works just fine, and i can not feel any difference in it.
The next day while i was waiting for a ride to get the car dropped at the garage, i went to start the car up and it was drained. Lights still came on but it didnt have enough to turn over. Upon a jump it worked fine, and would continue to run ok. It would restart after that quite a few times, even with full electric load on before starting(ac/radio/all lights/so on). Battery tested at 30% charge and 12v output, couldnt check amps at auto zone because of low charge. Since its factory battery from a 2010 model i just went and replaced it anways.
Since that point i have had both battery and alternator tested, both working fully. The EPS light remains on, and the car still acts 100% normal after 2 days of light driving.
Is it possible the dying battery could have some how messed with the EPS system causing that, and only that, light to turn on? If so, short of having the codes reset at the garage, would it be safe to continue light driving, or should i take it in right away?
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I have a 2005 Prius with 84k miles on it, I recently purchased it used w/ 82k miles.
While driving, about 15 miles into my drive the check engine light starts blinking with acceleration (I counted as many as 18 blinks in one time). The traction control light also came on a few times. With acceleration, the car shook. I was close to an advanced auto parts, so I went there hoping they could work. They were unable to have the connector sync with the car.
I ended up calling my girlfriend and asking her to look on this site for problems as I described. She found and read me info such as water leaking into the spark plugs (it did just rain allot yesterday) and bad gas. To my surprise, there was really no clear answer.
I called and got it towed to the Toyota dealer. The dealership just called and said they did a quick scan, and it "appears not to be from bad gas" but more testing will be done tomorrow. Would it be worth it to drive up and try some fuel water remover tonight? I also read on changing the spark plugs isn't too hard?
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