Ford :: 2005 - Shudders Severely To The Extent That Have To Pull Over
Oct 7, 2012
I have a 2005 Ford Fairmont that has only done 71000kms. When traveling on expressways it some times develops a severe shudder to the extent that I have to pull over. Generally when I pull over and wait for a minute or two (engine still idling) and then pull out it goes away. I also have noticed a loud thump from underneath the vehicle (usually whilst reversing) and am not sure if this has something to do with the shudder. My mechanic says he can't find any problems.
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I have a 2002 SD 4WD auto trans extended cab/short bed (92K miles). Run 55psi front and 70 psi rear per door placard. Recently started getting a vibration when cruising at 45MPH and to a lesser extent at 55MPH. I was due for new tires so I got Hercules which where balanced and also had the alignment checked (no problems.) Vibration has subsided greatly but still does it at 45MPH. A little faster or slower and it goes away. I checked the u-joints on the (one-piece) driveshaft and they seem tight. I do not feel any vibration in the steering wheel but really cannot tell if it is coming from the front or the rear.
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My 2008 XLS has 172,000kms on it and has been having a vibration problem. Specifically, the gas pedal vibrates and the whole car shudders when it is between 55-80 km/h and in 6th gear. The shudder/vibration occurs when the car has to drop a gear to accelerate. After it downshifts, the vibration is gone. It has been happening for the past few months. The vibration did go away for a while after I changed the brakes. So, not sure what could be going on there!
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2005 2.OT ... Our car showed an engine light last night and when doing heavy acceleration, starts to pull or hesitate. Do not occurs when accelerating slowly, all day at dealer and they said that might be cam wear or some pressure pump. They are taking the engine covers to find out what is the issue. Cam repair and oil change. It drives smoother and no longer hard down shifting....
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Anyway I have a friend with a Mazda Navaho. 1991, 5spd transmission
It jerks intermittently, and sometimes quite severely. Myself, and 4 other ASE mechanics, and 1 "old ford guru" are stumped. We know we have ruled out the clutch for sure....
We think It started when my friend put a clutch in it. He did not have the flywheel turned . When we looked at it, we were all convinced this was the issue....drive test and dumping the clutch in and out at cruising speeds could replicate the issue. However, he had just bought the truck, and it needed a clutch, however the jerking we think was happening before, but we didn't know as we couldn't drive it till we put the clutch in it.
So we re-did the clutch...had flywheel machined, and got a warranty replacement clutch just in case, and put it back together.
Same issues. so we checked, and tested.
1. Fuel pressure test- passed, no issues
2. Checked fuel regulator for leaks - none
3. Checked for and found no vacuum leaks-none
4. Swept, and actually replaced (3 times) the TPS -is working fine
5. Replaced the MAF - Thought we had it, as we disconnected the MAF and jerking seemed to go away instantly...however few days later jerking returned, and driving with MAF unplugged still jerking.
6. Replaced Ignition Module, checked coils, plugs etc...actually replaced plugs and wires as well
7. Disconnected Transfor case plug to make sure it wasn't the issue as well.
I really don't know what else to check. The motor runs fine, the trans shifts smoothly...the clutch is new and was done correctly. I run a small auto shop, and we have access to Mitchells, All-Data, and Identifix....all were no dice. It seems you try and research jerking and hesitation all the hits come up for Auto trans and Torque converter lockout issues. This truck is a 5 spd .....
I have owned many Aerostars back in the day (loved em, same 4.0) and I have never seen this
The jerking is random and intermittent...symptoms would be similar to a small child flicking a light switch on and off rapidly when it does it. power, no power, power, no power, and rapidly...it feels like someone herky jerking on the clutch but we have ruled that out....its definitely electrical.
Also, and naturally, even though it is Obd I we have checked and there are no pending nor stored codes....PCM thinks everything is hunky dory. No backfiring, no smoke, no misfires....runs like new except this perplexing issue.
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It seems that the seat bottom does not elevate to the full extent. I like to have the front of the cushion a little higher than the rear, but the front doesn't seem to elevate as much as the passenger seat does. I've noticed a couple of threads about the fore and aft resetting, but nothing about height or angle adjustment. I've driven several other Phaetons and this one definitely has an issue with the bottom cushion elevation.
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My 99 Ranger pulls severely to the right under Normal braking, pulling the 30 amp ABS fuse stops the pulling but the ABS light is on on the dash.
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I filled up for the first time yesterday after driving 1,039 miles. I had almost forgotten how to do it. Anyways, the reason I thought I needed to fill up was that the gas gauge was down to one bar. However I was only able to add 8.3 gallons. I thought 1 bar=1 gal but that turned out to be inaccurate.
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The other day just after a lightning storm, my '02 F450 diesel's radio started playing all by itself with no key in the truck. Now my batteries are being drained severely but can't figure out why or how.
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1998 Ford Windstar 3.0 van. After in town driving for for 1/2 hour or more, my passenger side front wheel begins to heat up severely (partially melted the hubcap). It also begins to "grab" as if the emergency brake is on. when it cools off, it seems to rolls normally. I am nearing not hearing any obvious bad bearing noises when it is cool.
It seems like an obvious bad wheel bearing issue, right? Before I take it in to a shop to replace the bearing and the hub, I want to explore if it could be a faulty caliper that might seize when it heats up.(something I can fix easily myself)
What can I look for to diagnose? When it is cool with the wheel removed I see no obvious issues with the brake pads/caliper, but that is not to say it doesn't act differently when super hot.
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2003 F150 5.4L Tow Package 140k miles... Had coils, all plugs/wires replaced two years ago due to vibe climbing hills. Now at startup in the morning for a minute or two during idle, the engine vibrates severely then subsides and runs fine rest of day. Doesn't do this every morning. Truck lives in FL. The issue is either temperature related or moisture related. Ford service has the truck presently and attempting to diagnose from an overnight stay. They already 'fixed' the problem last week by replacing #1 plug/wire and resetting the power control module (pcm) but two days later the problem came back. Tech said today that the plugs currently installed are Bosch (any issue with these plugs?)
2003 F150 5.4L 140k miles
2011 Expy 5.4L 44k miles
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A few weeks back my rear drivers side wheel started smoking severely...when I stopped you could smell the brake material, feel the heat coming from the wheel, and lots of smoke. I speculated it was the parking brake that got hung up. I jiggled that cable around and then went around the block - no issue. Note: I did not leave the parking brake on.
It happened again a week later, but not as bad. I took it into the dealer today. They said heat was evident as it burned off a sticker on the disk or caliper hsg area. They have not determined yet if it is parking brake or caliper?
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I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 4x4 I just purchased and it pulls to the right severely. I took it back to the dealer and it still pulls.
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I own a 2007 prius, it has about 320,000 miles. It has recently been diagnosed with a #2 and #4 cylinder misfire. The car severely idles rough, but when getting in the gas it goes away. I have replaced the spark plugs, the old plugs were very white(lean), replaced fuel injectors, used fuel injector cleaner. I've sprayed carb cleaner around the intake to see if I might a leak--no leak. The motor uses about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles since about 100,000 miles. I'm just guessing, could it simply be low compression causing this? I pulled the new spark plugs after about 5,000 miles and they where white also.
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So my vehicle is 6 years old and the front edge of the roof panel is severely rusting from corner to corner. Warranty originally tried to pass it off as stone chips (lol) before I got an independent surveyor to inspect. He said there's no doubt it's a manufacturing fault and is rotting from the inside out. I went back to Hyundai with this appraisal letter to which they replied 'your anti perforation warranty only covers from the windows down so the roof isn't covered.
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I have here a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban. It arrived last fall with 280K miles and a 6.0L V8 that was on its last leg (low to no oil pressure). I dropped in a 5.3L that I had handy, and had been happily driving it throughout the brutal Minnesota winter.
A couple months ago I noticed an issue developing. After a cold start, the engine would be severely lacking in torque for the first minute or so of driving. You could reach any RPM you wished, but the truck could barely accelerate. Once a minute or so had passed in this fashion, the issue would suddenly disappear... you'd be thrown back in your seat a bit if still attempting to accelerate, and the truck would take off. For the remainder of the trip, things would be fine.
Recently I went to drive the truck after it had sat for some weeks. It started fine, but the issue was now more persistent. When trying to accelerate, the gutlessness would continue for a good 15-20 seconds until finally and suddenly disappearing. Let off the gas, wait a moment, try to accelerate again, and it was the same thing all over again. Eventually I also noticed very obvious stumbling/missing when trying to get moving from a dead stop. Idle remained smooth.
The plugs and wires are only a few months old. The fuel filter is new. I checked for vacuum leaks (none that I could find). Fuel pressure is consistently around 50psi, even while the issue is happening.
The MIL was not on. I checked with my scantool, and found that P0101C was set, with P0101 pending. Visually examined the MAF harness and sensor; all looked fine. Swapped in a used working MAF; no change. (I suspect these codes may be due to the fact that I'm running a 5.3 with a stock, unmodified 6.0 PCM.)
My scantool is a Genisys running System 2.0. I'm by no means an expert with it, but I did know enough to try watching the miss counts while the symptom occurred. All cylinders seemed to be missing equally as much as the others, more or less.
Normally I'd be suspecting the fuel pump and/or associated wiring was going bad, but the pressure seems fine. What I might be missing?
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I have a 2001 Ford Taurus with 103,000 miles. It shudders when I accelerate; sometimes one, two or three shakes. This usually occurs around 35-40 mph while I am going uphill (never while going downhill). I always use overdrive, but I tried it in drive and also felt it then.
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2001 S-Crew, 4RW70, 5.4L, 189,000 miles. This started two years ago and first became apparent when I made a hard/panic stop. In fact, the first time it did it I was going to go through a traffic light and hit the brakes at the last second so I didn't actually run the red light. The truck shook like it missed for a second. That was unlikely as the coils and plugs were relatively new.
Here's what it does. When sitting still, in gear and you let off the brake but do not touch the accelerator, the truck will start to move as expected. It immediately shudders as it passes through 3-5 mph and then stops. It shifts through all the gears flawlessly, has no sign of the dreaded torque converter issue. It also does it as you come to a stop- as you come to a full stop and the trans shifts into 1st it shudders just as you come to a halt.
It started doing two years ago and never progressed. It's been the same until just recently when the weather got warm again. It's gotten a bunch worse in the last week and now the truck actually feels like it is idling rough sitting at a stop. (It's not- it's running fine.) But it feels like clutch chatter in a manual. Fluid changes have been routinely done every 30,000-40,000 miles, trans fluid is clear and not burnt, temps are normal.
As I said, it behaves perfectly the rest of the time and even tows my 20' 4,000 lb. boat just fine. Just that initial moment of take-off and at the stop. If I hit the gas when taking off I never feel it. Likewise, if you shift into neutral and coast to a stop it doesn't do it.
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I have a 2006 F-150 SuperCrew King Ranch. The 4R75E automatic transmission has some sort of fault. In overdrive...intermittently...it stumbles or shudders for a second or two. By feathering the throttle...it calms down. If the overdrive is cancelled, the shifting from 1 to 3 is fine. The fluids and filter have been changed.
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I just bought this truck a few weeks ago and rarely hit the freeway. But 2x now when getting on the freeway it will shudder/lose power at about 60MPH. It quickly recovers and then seems perfectly fine. Both times it has happened while going to lunch and when the vehicle is not warmed up. It has not happened on the return trip. I did some searching but nothing seems to be very intermittent like my problem is. Hard acceleration is fine and I have no issues there. Its an 05 Supercrew FX4 with 39K on on it and was babied.
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My Aerostar lately has been doing some weird things when going around corners. Whenever I'm going around a corner and I give the wheel a good turn the whole front end and the steering wheel start to shudder hard, and it sounds like the engine is being slightly bogged down. As soon as I finish though and straighten out it goes away immediately. Could this be the serpentine belt or the PS?
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