Ford :: 2004 - Gas Gauge Indicator Arm Swing Wildly?
May 25, 2013
2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac - Gas gauge indicator arm swings wildly beyond normal arc of travel and lies on one side or the other of the E & F labels in a seemingly random fashion. Some days, the indicator restrains itself to travel within the usual & customary manufacturer's boundaries. Other days, it falls to one side and listlessly rests there until it flops to another position, independent of the amount of gas in the tank. Ford dealer said that this intermittent activity cannot be corrected until the gauge fails completely and forever.
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I have a 1991 Mazda Miata. Recently I noticed the oil pressure gauge was vacillating wildly between 30 and 60, whereas it always stayed at 30 before. I checked the oil -- it was fine. I took it to my nearby mechanic who said it was the oil pressure gauge. He replaced it with a Miata part. Now the oil pressure stays at 60 once I'm over 20 mph. So what is the correct oil pressure setting and do I need to take it back to the mechanic?
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My daughter texted me today to inform me that her gas gauge indicator no longer reliably displays the fuel level. She's filled it up 3 times this week and the gauge still shows 1 bar. There are no other display anomalies: the speedo and other indicators appear to be normal. This 2008 has never had the combo meter changed and it's out of warranty since it's a salvage title.
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It's a 2000 . She just started seeing the gauges randomly swing all the way over, not sure which way . They stay that way until she starts it again and it's all fine and dandy once more. I'd go into more detail but haven't got them since it's not my truck and this is the first I have heard of it
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When I open my trunk it just doesn't swing open, it feels like it opens up half way bounces back a little and then opens up fully.
I chalked it up to it being a single shock on one side and it can't open that fast but I want to make sure I don't have something defective "Already got hit twice in the head by the trunk lock after leaning into fast "...
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Just picked up a second Tigi for my daughter. This one is is an SE but noticed the wipers sit higher by an inch when in the off position. It causes the driver wiper to go past the glass edge by an inch. How to reset and adjust.
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On my 2002 Santa Fe, the gas gauge moves slowly after filling up. It takes about a minute or two for the gauge to reach full. I'm not sure if this is normal or not but the more troubleshooting I do I'm starting to think it is. Need to confirm this?
Also, the low fuel indicator never comes on. I disconnected the connector from the fuel pump and jumpered pin 1 to pin 5 and the light did come on (after turning the key on). I replaced the sending unit (driver side only) but the light still doesn't come on. The only other thing I could think of was dirty contacts so I cleaned them really good. Still no light. What else I can try?
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97 F150 4.9 200xxx 5 Speed .....
I'm having an issue with my truck. It only seems to happen during warm 80+ weather. In the mornings, and during colder weather, the truck runs perfectly.
My problem is; Every time I go to get going and feather the clutch, either in 1st or reverse, my truck bucks wildly.
I changed the plug wires about 500 miles ago, and am about 4000 miles on a rebuilt engine (plugs as well) and new clutch/resurfaced flywheel. The clutch reservoir is full and I haven't noticed any leaks. There have been no codes thrown.
Could it be a possible fuel problem? I think I changed the fuel filter about 7k-10k miles ago.
I was also wondering if the Gotts mod could be causing it. I did the mod during the winter time, and this is my first summer with it on. My air filter is fine.
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Idiot light was on for battery charging issues. Sanded all ground connections. Soldered battery cable connections. Scan gauge showed sporadic inadequate charging. Installed new alternator. Scan gauge showed sporadic inadequate charging. Installed new interstate batteries. Brought old alternator to be rebuilt, rebuilder said it was strong as could be, needed no work, high output alternator. Reinstalled old high output alternator. Scan gauge now shows charge output of 13.9 V to 14.1 V
Idiot light still on, flickers like a loose connection, sometimes lights constantly.Occasionally speedometer fluctuates wildly, when fluctuating like this at idle, the truck will stall, so far it restarts...so far. When it has stalled the speedometer still fluctuates wildly for a few seconds truck will restart and seem fines but this will play out again next day or so. Occasionally ABS light comes on, occasionally water in fuel light comes on and they go away after abit, some times after a restart, not always though
Thought it might be cam positon sensor however not certain with the instrument lights also acting as they do. Have had one cam position sensor open circuit code once, about to trip out west to Monatana & Colorado and back home to Ma in a couple of weeks, hoping not to be stranded somewhere in between those places!
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I got the message to "check tire pressure" which I did. All tires were very close to 41 psi and I tweaked the pressures to the recommended indicated on the driver's side door jamb. I did this almost a week ago and the indicator still goes on. I check the tires again and the gauge reads 41 on all 4 tires. Can something still be wrong? Does something have to be reset?
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2000 Honda Odyssey, Gear indicator light on ther dash works when I start the van, however, when I turn on the headlights, the gear indicator and the gauge illumination lights do not work, when I switch the headlights off the gear indicator light works again. I checked the fuses and replaced them just to check.
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Yaris 2006 Fuel Gauge. How much fuel is in the tank begins to blink when the last (lowest) level indicator box? According to the manufacturer's technical data for the reservoir has a volume of 42 l so that, if the indicator is divided into eight levels, should mean that at the start blinking in a tank remaining 42/8 = 5.25 l. Checked this? And how much is left when you start "blinking faster"?
Statement of kilometers that still can not get the remaining fuel in the tank, at least for me, unreliable and virtually useless - probably was chosen because of those who drive hundreds of miles, with nearly constant spending on long highway tours. And to me it happens about once a year. The data in the display are obviously obtained by dividing the remaining amount of fuel consumption average. It would be more useful to Yaris, you already know that the remaining amount of fuel, the display and print it over to my calculations, I knew I would Ceme - by his calculations, we are rarely used.
Perhaps the simplest way to what the Yaris is calculated back to that from which it started and get what we are interested in:
For example. If the display says that the average consumption of 5 l/100km and that the available fuel may even exceed 150 km should mean that the left in the tank for 5/100 x 150 = 7.5 liters.
It seems to me that this sentence correct, I see no other way he could predict how many kilometers could go with the remaining fuel.
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Stopped in the dealer to look at a new Prius. Already have a 05 so I sold on the vehicle but was told some things have changed so I should drive it. I hit the power button and the engine proceeded to make a terrible noise like metal hitting plastic. So I shut it down we popped the hood and restarted, the engine was bucking side to side and finally quit down to a normal.
Granted it was cold (22 degrees) and I don't know when the vehicle was last run. They only have 2010 on the lot, I was looking for a II or III and a nice color (tired of silver and don't want white or black) and this was a red III, only one in the lot and the one they wanted to sell me. Not sure I want this one.
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A few weeks ago, my 09 Sonata V6 starting fluctuating (slightly) abnormally when starting from a cold start. I attributed this to the cold snap (25F mornings down from 40's). To be safe I used a fuel system cleaner at the next fill up.
When the issue didn't immediately go away, I was a little concerned, but extremely busy with work. After 2 weeks of needing to start the car and let it warm up for 10 minutes... things got a lot worse.
RPMs started fluctuating between 2500 and 500. Rev, choke, rev, choke. I got it to the dealer... but it had of course warmed up. Another thread had a similar issue, so I checked for and got an ECM update, reset the adaptive memory, and had the (just due) transmission flush.
No change. The next night, I parked the car in the dealer's lot and let them start it. I suspected the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) but wanted the dealership to independently confirm. The head mechanic definitely noticed it, confirmed with me, and replaced the TPS, did a carbon cleanout and oil change. So far, 2 weeks later, no issues.
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My 02 navigator does not idle right when in park or sitting at stoplight. I've gotten codes po171 and po174. The truck ran fine for a good 3 months after the (service engine soon light) came on and I got these codes so I decided to do nothing.. Now it idles bad and has even shut off twice on me while pulling into driveway. I changed the MAF and that did nothing.. Should I assume its the o2 sensors or is there a chance my CAT is shot.
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2002 Chrysler Town and Country. My speedometer jumps wildly and then goes clockwise and rest without working. The trany hesitates and has a jerking when sitting in drive, and slow to shift into 2nd gear. We have replaced speed sensors, wiring and connectors, and now are thinking the chassis control box may be next.
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'08 Ford F-150 with 53,000 miles. ABS indicator light has been coming on intermittently for a week now. Mechanic said its a left front wheel sensor code. Wants to charge $98 to diagnose. Says it could be bad sensor or broken wire.
I have limited mechanical experience. Is this something I can tackle? Or is this a major job?
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I have a 07 Lariat with vacuum 4X4 switch. Goes in and out of 4 Hi and Low however dose not light up on dash for 4 Hi only( 4 Lo lights up ). Is this the beginning of a vacuum leak or bigger problem?
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I just installed a set of HID conversion kit on my 2005 F-150 STX. It is only one beam bulb so therefor I have no high beams. Also, to remind you I have fog lights on the truck. My question is, when I turn my head lights on, and pull the switch to turn on the fog lights, a "blue light" indicator lights up on the dash. It is the high beam indicator and why that is lit. As far as I remember, that light never came on before the install. You have to excuse me since this is my first truck ever and I just got it back after having it repaired at the body shop the last two months. So technically, I only had the truck for 2 months....Just curious whether the blue light is suppose to be on when the fogs are on the dash.
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04 Explorer XLT, 4dr. 4wd, 4.0 engine - after replacing front rotors and pads the "4X4 High" indicator light flashes then pauses then flashes again. Did I brake something, what is the cause and how do I fix it. ABS light stays on all the time.
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I have a 2007 F-150 that I'm having a little problem with. The tire pressure indicator light has kept coming on almost every time I drive it. I checked the tires, all register 35 pounds cold which is what it calls for. It has been going on in hot or cold weather for the past 4-5 months but will go off after I'd say 5 or 10 minutes of driving it. I really can't figure out what is going on with it. Bad sensor maybe? I looked to find something about this but couldn't or I didn't look hard enough.
2007 Ford F-150, Supercab, Lariat, 4X2, 6FT5 box,
5.4 Triton V8, black in color, gold bottom trim, 3.73 LSD,
9.75 axle, tow pckg. 0-60 recently clocked at 7.7 sec with
no tune.
Mods: Magnaflow SI/DO exhaust.
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