Ford :: 2002 - Vibrates During Acceleration
Jun 25, 2013
2002 Ford F350 Diesel 4x4 Automatic 250k miles
Recent there is a vibration which I feel as the driver and also from my passengers when I press on the accelerator. When I let off or do not press on the accelerator, the vibration goes away/stops.
I have had my U-joints checked (no problems or lose), carrier bearing on the drive shaft checked (was replaced 1-year ago), and tires balanced dna rotated 3x and not sure what next to check.
Occurs at all speed, but is really evident at lower rpm’s.
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Start with the basics, no CEL's, car has not cut out while driving and I've only had to attempt cranking up the car twice since I started noticing these issues about 6 months ago.
Symptoms: hesitation/variation in boost during acceleration- doesn't matter if I really get into the gas or just "normal" passing acceleration RPM's steadily climb, but just not as consistent or quickly. Also, the one that really has me really confused. With a 1/4 tank of gas or less, going up a slight incline (overpass); 70-mph-ish... acceleration dies off, rpm's slowly decline, and gas pedal doesn't respond for about 2-3 seconds. Car never shuts off, no CEL's, then everything is fine again! Even does it when I'm using cruise control. Car just rolled 110,000 miles
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2006 Honda Odyssey with about 120,000 miles on it. Check engine light and VSA light came on at the same time. Car vibrates dramatically and has little to no acceleration. Put off the engine and restarted. Car worked fine after that. Has happened twice in the last 2 weeks. What this might be + what do I need to do to fix it?
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I have a honda odyssey 07. I just I just got an alignment done on Tuesday night. I think it drove okay. I sent my car to Costco last night to get 2 new front tires replaced. Took the local road home last night and didn't notice anything wrong. As soon as I hit the freeway, I noticed my car vibrates uncontrollably when I accelerate at the speed btwn 65-70 mph. However, it seems okay when my feet are off the gas pedal. Should I stop driving? I would like to know if my car is safe.
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Ok so here's the deal recently decided to get my explorer back on the road after sitting for some time. So needed a new alternator replaced took it for a drive was really rough but again it just sat so i kept driving it and it got better but did need some parts and love so here's what I did to it thus far then I will explain what the issue is. I have replaced the alternator, oil change, trans case fluid change, new plugs and wires, new wheel bearing, new rotor, new brakes all around, new caliper. So here's the issue. During take off it vibrates/shakes mostly between 30-40 mph but when you get to about 60 it drives good but when you take your foot off the gas its like a whine or a growl that comes from what sounds like the middle of the truck. I am not exactly sure on what it is. I checked the u joints no slop or anything maybe a little stiff. Tomorrow im checking the front and rear diff and rotating the tires to see if that gets rid of the vibration but what about the whine or growl. Realized I didn't put what type of explorer it is. 2002 explorer xls 4.0 sohc 4x4.
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I have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
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I have an 02 f150 ext cab fx4 with just under 140,000 miles my first problem was when I shift from reverse to drive I have a loud clunk/bang I was trying to find out what was wrong so my brother in law was looking out the drive shaft he pushed it into the rear end now when I am over 65mph and take my foot off the gas I have a vibration but only when I take my foot off the gas and above 60-65mph the steering wheel or peddles don't vibrate but the floor does .
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My truck (02 7.3L cc) started making a grilled ding type of vibration when I would let if the throttle. I felt the axle going into the rear differential was a bit loose, so I took the cover plate off. The pictures below show where the pinion I think is hitting, sort of like the bearing is allowing front to Rear differential scaring from movement. Rear movement.
How difficult is a rebuild, and is there anything I should be careful of?
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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i have a 2002 automatic gti , now car was running gr8 , then poof out of the blue, car started vibrating, yeah , like am on a big vibrator, and only when its on gear D,4,3 or 2 its vibrates , if i place on P or N vibration stops.
and keep in mind it only vibrates on speeds of 10 miles ,20 miles up to ~50 miles speed , if i give it gas,the vibration stops , i slow down on the gas , and the vibration is back , and whenever i stop at a red light , car starts to present minor chocks and viberation.
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I have changed the oil, all filters, spark plugs and wires but the problem is still there. At start up it vibrates and sputters, gets worse at take off, lessens at 55mph but if i floor the gas it stops. Takes a lot more power to reach speeds. As much as 3000 rpm to get to 45 and almost 4000 rpm to get to 55mph. How i can fix this?
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I just replaced the front and back motor mounts on my 02, 1.6 automatic accent. The front replacement mount was 1/2 inch too wide at where the bolt goes through, but made do. Now, the idle, but that's it. Before, it was vibrating somewhat at idle and lots of steering wheel vibration at highway speed. Now, I have no vibration of the wheel at highway speed, so it's like I eliminated one problem and made the other worse. I am hoping that the mount being too wide is the problem as I ordered the correct one. While taking it apart, I also noted the bolt through the front motor mount is incredibly small compared to the hole and this was true on both the original and the too big replacement. Why is this? Assuming that I swap out the too big mount for the proper and it still vibrates, than what?
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My 202 Honda Civic EX is having serious 'bad vibes' that the mechanic has not been able to fix. actually, i don't think he has even driven my car, much less even tried to fix the problem. meanwhile, it's driving me crazy. the mechanic just replaced the motor mounts. I got in the car and the problem is STILL there. the vibration is easy to see when the car is idling - the hood vibrates and the rear view mirror also shakes, I can feel the vibration in the driver seat and steering wheel. i can also feel the vibration in the passenger seat, though it is a little less noticeable. There is also a noise to go along with the vibration, especially when idling, it sounds as if i need a new muffler, but i can't hear the sound outside of the car, only inside the car. What the problem is?
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I have an 02 5r55w 2wd that I'm on the fence about right now and not sure if I should try and fix myself or pay $990 for a used one with unknown miles and 90 day warranty..
I bought it with 160-164k with no 2nd gear, OD flashing. Took it apart, replaced some bands, planetary, servo piston(end broke off-think OD.
After that, everything ran fine. NOw at 195k it's doing the I believe 2-3 high flare, rpm's go up to I think about 4k before shifting, sometimes more.
It has no acceleration on the low end gears, sounds like a dang 18 wheeler in it's low gears taking off, then I believe when int band kicks in, it picks up some torq and speed and shifts fine after 2-3 (not always does it-mostly when having to dump on the gas a bit).
Had issues with it jumping forward while on the brake. I've been in an 03 explorer with a good trans and could tell right away mine is pretty weak...
I was looking at the servo bore sleeve piston fix for $200. Maybe that and a shift kit, would that fix the issues I'm having right now? I haven't had any OD flashing or any check engine light codes. Haven't hooked it up to check codes, not sure if it logs if it doesn't flash check engine first.
I'm starting a business and will be pulling a 4x8 and need to get this one replaced or figured out.
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02 Ranger with 3.0 Flex motor, 375K+ miles. Been chasing an issue for a while now, but am about at the end of my diagnosing capabilities. Issue started with a misfire on 5 and rough running engine with no codes showing up. Now the motor is getting worse.
Idle a little rough and no power when accelerating hard. The engine sounds like a popcorn popper under hard acceleration. Motor revs up to 4K but does not pull or shift gears until I let off the gas.
The code that initially showed up indicated a bad Camshaft Position Sensor. Changed that and the Sync assembly - as per instrucions, exactly positioned same as old one. New codes showed up - P1152, P0175, P0171. Cleaned the MAF, rail fuel pressure OK, can't find any vacuum leaks, replaced both upstream ox sensors, and changed #5 ,6 injectors.
Motor still runs the same - like crap, like a corn popper on acceleration, smooths out if only slightly accelerating, but stumbles n bumps on steady cruise speed over/around 60 mph - and no codes showing at present.
I really, really don't want, nor can I afford, to take it to the dealership, but I may be forced to if I can't figure this out sometime quite soon. I make my living with this truck so, no truck, no work till this issue is solved.
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I have a 2002 f-150 4.6 that sometimes has a miss upon acceleration but not all the time.the truck is a 4.6 with a manual trans.has no engine codes and scanner never show a misfires but sometimes it does , have replaced all spark plugs and coil boots twice.
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I have a 2002 7.3 Excursion with DP Tuner. Truck has 167K on it. My check engine light came on when I was driving to work this morning. Stayed on for the ride home. Appeared to drive ok - a little rough - but it has been that way for a while. When I got home I plugged in the AutoEnginuity and this is what came up:
So it appears I have a glow plug issue. That does not surprise me as I have had some rough starts this past winter. On a whim I ran the Cylinder Contribution Test and it completed successfully. Yet when I started the truck again it completely falls on it's face when accelerating. Here is a link to a video: [URL] .....
It did this once about a month ago. I was driving to work and stopped at a light and when I tried to accelerate, it did this. I limped to a gas station a 100 yards away. I let it sit and started it up, drove home. Went in the house and did some googling and of course after I came back out, it worked fine. Has not done it since.
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My 02 F150 4.6 has 84K miles on it, and started stumbling/hesitating during accellartion about three weeks ago. Before this problem started (about 2,000 miles ago), I installed a new fuel filter and air filter. Since I noticed the problem, I installed new plugs. The problem didn't go away, so today I checked the fuel pressure. At idle the pressure is 32psi with the vacuum line left on the fuel pressure regulator (30-45 is normal as per Chilton's), and 42 with the vacuum line off (40-50 is normal as per Chilton's). I also had someone else rev the engine so I could observe, and found that the fuel pressure went as low as 28 when the engine speed was quickly increased. The standing fuel line pressure is 30 (30 is normal as per Chilton's) Does this sound like a fuel pump problem, or is there something else that I'm missing.
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I had a buzzing noise on acceleration so today I cut all the heat shields off the exhaust system and also bent the bottom of the transmission inspection plate toward the front of the motor. It cured the buzzing noise but when I started the truck up there was a new rattle kind of sound, so I looked and found my y pipe is cracked where the passenger side pipe comes down off the manifold and connects to the pipe that goes to the cat converter.
I don't want to get a whole new y pipe could I order the spd Y pipe and that should work out right? it should be cheaper than a whole new y pipe aswell. I filled up the crack (it cracked 360) with weld but it was tissue paper so I would like to fix it before winter. I also still need to do my passenger side manifold studs and weld a new muffler because I found the rear half of mine is rotted off lol so I will probably do this all at one time.
I'm probably just going to pull everything manifolds and back off the truck, I have a feeling theres a bunch of rust sitting in front of the cat or muffler making the new rattling noise. Also in all my years of wrenching I have never figured out an easy way to get the exhaust off those rubber hangers, I always try to spray wd40 in there to get them to slide easy but always end up tearing them while trying to get them off.
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The problem starts after about 5-10 mins of start up and normal driving. First signs usually come leaving a stop light or stop sign. Hesitation, jerkiness, rough acceleration. It's usually slight, just enough to feel it. Soon it really shows up while keeping the truck at a steady speed, say 40 for example.
I finally heard what I would describe as a puffing air sound and figured vacuum leak.. finally! Nope.. it's coming from the rear underneath of the vehicle. I can't hear it in the engine, or the tail pipe.
2002 Ford Explorer xls 4.0 125k miles, I've replaced the air filter, egr valve, pcv valve, cleaned the maf and covered about every hose I can reach with carb cleaner checking for a vacuum leak. I've yet to try some of the other things due to hearing that puffing sound.
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I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
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