Ford :: 2002 - Jerk Badly At Slow Speed?
Jan 29, 2013
It started by a minor sputtering while my gf was driving it. It became seriously worse to where while driving at a steady speed it would jerk badly but if I drove and shifted at a high rate of speed if was fine until I released the gas pedal and symptoms returned. I let it set for a week then drove it and it was fine until I shut the engine down and restarted and the symptoms returned. This scenario has happened twice. Autozone tester reported a bad cam sensor. I replaced it and it did not work. I foolishly asked an online mechanic who said it was a crank sensor. I changed that too plus put a new fuel filter on it. Before all this began my truck had been performing perfectly it only has 84k miles but my gf said that she had heard a sound like a pulley was squeaking but I never heard a sound.
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I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
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I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
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I have a 06 f150 king ranch and I have had this issue before and had tran. rebuilt and motor work done for this and other issues. The jerking stopped for a while but now it is back!
The best way I can describe it is when I'm at a certain speed or have set the cruise, it feels as if it the overdrive has been pushed but it only last for a quick moment then it will continue to do this until I accelerate. Its not a steady jerk.
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I'm experiencing the tug/jerk/shuddering in my 2012 Escape v6. It happens more around 70mph or 2,000-2,500rpm.
Tug/jerk/lurch/buck happens even more with OD off. Happens around 60mph or 2000rpm with OD off.
Been to the dealer several times even test drove with a mechanic that acknowledges the tug/jerk sensation. No codes or faults. Last visit the dealer showed me a print out of misfire counts and all cylinders were 0 yet on the drive home it was tug/jerk/lurching.
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Last night and this morning we had flooding rains here and the excursion was sitting outside in it.
Later this afternoon, I went to pull it up a little to get a motorcycle ouut of the garage, and it started, but very roughly. Check engine light on, would idle at times, and sometimes would die on its own or when I put it in drive. The OD light on the gear shift was also flashing.
Didn't see any pools of water in the engine compartment, around the firewall or anything that would show water had gotten into some electrical areas of the truck.
My OBD reader isn't reading the diagnostics plug for some reason, im gonna go buy one here in a minute.
Plugs, boots, COPS?....why the hell the OD light flashing when in park? Start removing, inspecting, replacing or tow it to the dealer?
2002 Limited, V10, 190k miles, 1-owner, 6 pages of carfax dealer service reports.
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 2.2 4 cylinder. It has about 206k miles on it… About 2 months ago I started to feel slight hesitation when I was driving…. It was so slight I wasn’t sure if it was happening or not. Recently the hesitation has become much worse… typically it will hesitate and jerk when I try to accelerate from slow speeds… this primarily happens when the car is cold. It will also jerk and hesitate when I am cruising at a fixed speed. If I step on the gas, the jerking stops.
Here are known issues and recent work I have had done… in November I replaced my complete exhaust system myself, including the downstream oxygen sensor. The cat is now bad and it will rattle. I had a mechanic replace my water pump, timing belt and all pulleys and tensioners associated with it about 2 weeks ago. The hesitation predated this problem.
About 5 years ago I replaced my own plugs and wires… when I did this; I noticed oil on one plug. This was for the cylinder closest to the driver’s side. I never noticed any issues with the performance of my car related to the oil, and I do not burn through much… perhaps a quart every 2 months. About a week ago I replaced my plugs and noticed the oil again. I do not know if this relates to my hesitation problem or not. I also filled my tank and used a container of injector cleaner, thinking perhaps a clogged injector was causing the problem.
The problem still exists.
Now I am thinking it might be one of two problems… either a defective ignition coil or a bad throttle position sensor. Yesterday I borrowed a code reader… it told me I had “long fuel trim in bank 1”.
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I drive (or more recently used to drive) a 2002 VW Jetta which has been having extreme difficulty running correctly during moist weather. Initially, upon start-up, I will note a severe problem.... it seems as if it's shaky, very shaky, and does not want to move. Upon trying to move it ignoring it's obvious signs, it does not want to take when I push in the gas....seeming to jerk or move incredibly slow. Usually feeling as if I can barely get it to move a 10 yards or so before being too nervous to push it any further. These issues seem to exist far far far more frequently in wet or moist weather (even a day or 2 after it has rained).
The car has always been well taken care of. What are the possible causes, then I might have some better luck requesting services upon calling mechanics around the area.... I am currently in college, away from home, and I absolutely cannot afford to get "nickle-and-dimed" by the dealership over every possible minor detail which could POSSIBLY need some tuning-up. It currently has just over 100,000 miles and has never had any major replacements.
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New here. I have a 2001 F150 which i love but lately has been an issue. I started it up a few weeks ago after it set over night. i threw it in to reverse and notice it hesitating while reversing and it has small trouble accelerating but does buck and jerk while trying to maintain speed. So I took it to my well trusted mechanic and he ran compression test and ran the highly prolific OTC scanner on it and nothing. I have changed my mass flow sensor and I dont show any misfires or any codes pending. I did replace a busted catalytic convertor a couple months back. Im running out of places to turn.
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My wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
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I have a 2002 Pontiac Aztek with about 170,000 miles on it. About 3 weeks ago, it began having problems when I would hit the gas to speed up. It would hesitate, and then jerk forward and go. Then about 2 weeks ago, I was driving on the highway and the engine just suddenly stopped - as if I had turned off the key.
There was no warning, no sound, nothing. I kept hitting the gas the whole time and it started up again after a minute. I replaced the fuel filter and it ran well for a week. Then it happened again, but this time the engine completely turned off and I had to turn the key to restart the engine. The engine started with no problem.
I tried to drive to the mechanic, but the engine stopped & started again on the way, so I ended up having it towed. It is not driving roughly or idling roughly, it doesn't make any strange sounds and no warning lights come on. When the engine stops, all electrical components are still working (lights, radio, etc.). My mechanic appears to be stumped. What could be causing this?
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I own a 2001 prius and work on a lot of toyota . I am looking at friend's 02 prius that he got with a bad inverter . To make a long story short I checked the codes before we started and got code 3025 which can translate to a bad inverter if I am correct. The inverter pump was bad so we changed it and flushed the used inverter after we put it in. The "new" inverter seems to be working ,but we still have a major problem with the transmission I believe. The car will move , but it shudders very bad when you put it into drive and reverse both.
It appears like the engine is turning over with the transmission ,when the engine is hot and shut down and running on battery only. Yes the check engine light came on ,but have not had time to pull them yet.I know ,I know .its hard to give me info with no codes. The big question was ,is it possible for the engine to rotate when you drive the car in battery mode? It sounds like the engine is actually rotating and the engine will also rock back and forth with the car driving real slow. I know this will end up needing a transmission.
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So. My car shakes badly when I get above 35 mph and up. It shakes under acceleration and braking above these speeds. Under these speeds its fine. When I am above 35 if I am just coasting its fine it doesn't shake. The shaking feels like I am off the side of the road and driving over rumble strips. What could be the cause of this?
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I got off the highway today and was at a very long light, but enough time to feel my car making slight jerking movements and i saw the car raise a little over an inch.
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I have a 2005 hyundia elantra, i just recently noticed mainly while I was driving on the freeway or at higher speeds when I let my foot off the pedal my vehicle would slightly jerk and quickly decrease speed for a second, I then noticed my engine light was on. I stopped at a free computer test auto shop (o' reiley's ) and the test stated trouble code p1505 code definition - idle charge actuator signal - low of coil 1.
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This issue is driving me insane. I have taken it to 5 mechanics and no one can figure out what it is. I replaced all the motor mounts which did make it noticeably better but it's still there.
I can easily recreate it if I accelerate and then let go of the pedal. It's just a single jerk, almost like a jolt to the car. Also happens when turning off cruise control. It doesn't matter what speed or what gear I'm in. I can get a MASSIVE jolt if I switch it from reverse to drive or drive to reverse if I'm not at a complete stop but almost stopped.
It also feels like it hesitates when accelerating but it's not too bad. Mechanics say it's normal but I have owned many automatics and never experienced anything like this. What could cause it? It's a V6 2002 toyota camry LE.
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I have a 2009 Ford Focus and have been having a problem with the brakes. When I hit the brakes at any speed there is a feeling of pulsing as I slow down. It is proportional to the speed I am going. It feels like there is an unevenness to the rotor or brake drum that makes one spot on either of those hit the brake pad/shoe more severely than the rest of the pad/shoe and thus I slow down more during that one spot. Maybe the best way to describe the feeling is like this: While the brake pedal is pressed down it feels like I am slowly pulsing the pedal even though the pedal is steadily pressed down. This pulsing feeling slows down as I slow down until I stop. What might cause this?
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For the past 4/5 weeks my truck vibrates when i brake at slow speed ex. Driving out of a parking spot, slightly braking no matter if i go forward, reverse, turn or go straight it'll vibrate, sometimes very lightly, but usually it's very noticeable, can be compared to the clutch pack issue with these trucks. I had the clutchpacks in the rear diff. replaced at 160k ,after that it drove very smooth but that only lasted 20/30k.
So when turning it'll vibrate at about 15/20 km/h, but that's because of them crappy clutch packs
truck:
2009 f150
xlt ext. cab
4x4
xtr package
6,5 ft box
5.4 L
212000 km
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2002 Hyundai Accent with automatic transmission. This problem happens only if I floor the gas gas on the highway (trying to pass somebody or get out of the way in a hurry) or if I apply too much gas after coasting around a sharp turn. My car will then downshift with a jerk and an audible THUNK!. Right now I just avoid those situations and it shifts through all its gears fine, it only happens when I cause a sudden downshift. Transmission fluid level and color fine.
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Looking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
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I took my 2011 Lariat in for first service and reported that it sometimes tries to accelerate on its own during slowdown from high speed, eg when coming off a freeway ramp, rpms go up and vehicle wants to speed up rather than slow down. (sounds like something a Toyota would do!)
Dealer says its a known problem with 5.0L and performed a supposed fix per "TSB 11-8-9, 5.0L ENGINE BRAKING PERFORMANCE DURING LOW SPEED COAST DOWN," essentially a PCM reflash.
Happened once in a parking lot...thought the floormat was stuck on the accelerator but the pedal was clear.
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