Ford :: 2002 - Engine Knocks Loudly At Start Up / Reaching To Stop?
Apr 7, 2011
I have a 2002 Crown Victoria LX. The engine runs great with the exception of a loud knocking sound sometimes when starting or stopping the engine. When starting, it's a single loud knock after the engine turns over. When stopping, it's anywhere from one to several as the engine motion comes to a stop. When it's several (probably 4 or 5) they are quick but it's apparent that the rate slows down slightly over time, as if it's a moving part inside the engine coming to a stop. It is worth noting that about one-third of the time when turning the car on or off, there is no noticeable knocking sound whatsoever. Maybe something is loose inside?
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My 2000 alero was WAY low on oil so I added a quart then drove for about 45 mins at 40 mph the car seemed fine. the following morning when I went to start it the car turned over but would not start when it finally started the engine knocks and it is putting out a lot of white exhaust. obviously I need to see a mechanic but what might be wrong. my neighbor said one of the cylinders isn't doing what ever it is supposed to do he said it passed a compression test but I don't know what that means...
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I have a new 2012 mustang GT with just under 5000 miles (no brembo package). For the first 3-5 stops, the passenger front brake squeals loudly right before coming to a stop, then goes away for a while. Intermittently, while the car is warm, it will squeal very loudly at low speeds when coming to a stop (10mph). The car does not pull and the stopping power doesn't seem to be affected. I've taken it to the dealership, they say they can't reproduce the sound. They resurfaced the rotor and claim that nothing is wrong with the brakes, but the resurfacing did nothing to fix the problem.
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The car died on me the other day at a stoplight but started up again (It resisted for a sec but then caught). Now it's taking a bit to start and sounds very faint when it finally catches and the turn over is slow. I'm no mechanic but I can replace parts. I'm just wondering if it's the fuel pump or injectors, maybe low fuel pressure. I haven't had a chance to do anything to it. Where to start?
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I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
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As stated I have a 2008 F150XLT 5.4 V8. Recently it has started making a knocking noise and very rough idle when warm. It only does it when the truck has been driven slowly or typically when going through a drive through. It sounds like a rod knock but putting it in neutral and revving the engine makes it go away for a while.
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Engine seems to knock real bad after engine gets hot like its out of time if unplug the vvt solenoids it runs great something is telling them to adjust timing to much.
When it came in it had a cam code and i found cam sensor was broken it had new installed found part of other in engine. Phaser was damaged replaced it. still did it after.
Then I pulled front of engine apart found chain tensioner leaking oil around gasket and then we decided to re time chain. If still doing it.Will let know after air mass meter.
PS no codes at this time
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2006 Ford F150 4x4 - Ford
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I have a 2002 jeep wrangler TJ, 4-cylinder and lately it has been stuttering/hesitating after the car reaches its' operating temp. To give more context, I've had a similar issue recently that a local mechanic said resulted from a bad o2 sensor and exhaust leaks. He fixed what he could and replaced the sensor. This fixed the issue, but he did mention there was another leak in the manifold that he couldn't get to? I asked him if it was okay to drive for the time being and he said yes. A couple months have passed and I'm now getting the same issue. I'm wondering if it is a result of the leak and if I've worsened the situation? Currently I'm noticing the same hesitation/stuttering accompanied now by a strong exhaust smell while driving. Also there seems to be a buildup on the engine itself as if there is an oil leak. I'm not 100% everything is related, but I'm willing to bet they have stemmed from the same unresolved issue.
I realize this jeep is 12 years old and that things are bound to happen. Unfortunately, I'm a broke college student and I've already spent quite a bit on other repairs recently. (new radiator, oil pressure sending switch, power steering sensor, leak repair, etc.) I'm at my wits end because this is my daily driver and I don't want to exacerbate the problem!
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The other day I bought an sct tuner for my excursion and its been a little glitchy, likes to freeze up and lock out my ecu.
I was driving yesterday and today I try to turn it on and my engine knocks badly revs erratically and all gauges weren't working so i shut it off. I tried to start up again and it flashes the theft light and abs light. Won't crank won't do anything my whole engine is locked out.
So i tried reverting the ecu back to stock. I did this several times once it simply lost power and shut off at the end another time it said wrong vehicle and the final time it said completed.
Now when i try to start up it does the same thing and will not do anything but flash lights at me... When I downloaded the file it said select vehicle: 6.0 superduty. That was the only choice, and the guy at the store said that the truck tuner will work in my excursion I specifically asked if this works in the ex.
I really need my truck otherwise I will he paying hundreds in taxi fare. I tried calling the store and sct but both are closed on weekends.
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I have a 1994 Buick LeSabre Limited with a 3800 engine.When the engines cold,it starts fine and drives fine.When it reaches operating temp,if you shut it off. It will crank but not start back up until its cold again. I've replaced the crank and cam sensors but no change.
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2003 Jeep Liberty Sport, 156 K miles, Check engine light has been on for months now. First occurrence was when driving, and car started to knock as though I was shooting 50 cal machine guns. Stopped vehicle, shut off, and upon restart, engine ran smooth. Now, almost every time after engine has been running a while, and I am going on a down slope, the check engine light starts to blink, and engine starts to miss. Took to my mechanic, and so far, I have been told and have replaced, Fuel pump, Spark plugs, coils, and wires, cam sensor. Latest and most recent with promise that this has to be it, I replaced engine computer.
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I have a 2008 fx4 with 75000 km it runs great but when I go on a long ride up hills or tow my trailer it acts up only when I get to my destination. the engine will run really rough and knock loudly seems only when I use reverse or sometimes park (and oil pressure in dash looks good),and if I shut ignition off and restart it no problems till I make engine work hard again.
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It is a 1999 Toyota 4 runner SR5, not sure when last changed out fluid and filter. Why would my engine vibrate at 52mph and above? Once I take my foot off rthe gas it stops untl i press gas pedal again. I have had the front end alignment done and the tires checked.
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I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 265k miles. I use Mobil 5-30 synthetic oil and I drive a steep hill every day and the engine knocks in the summer afternoons when I use cheap 87 Octane gasoline from Safeway or Costco. If I use better 87 octane gasoline (Chevron, Shell) generally there is less knocking. Also during the winter months no knocking even with cheap gasoline.
During summer I can sometimes make the knocking go away by accelerating or decelerating. The knocking is intermittent and generally occurs only during the steepest parts of the commute. The engine might knock for 30 seconds to 60 seconds before its goes away as I try to change the engine RPM.
Unfortunately I am burning some oil at a rate of approximately half a quart every 5k miles. Generally I watch the oil level, but there have been cases where the oil level has fallen below the lowest mark on the dip stick so I suspect I have some carbon build up.
I've read posts where others have used additives like gumout regane and I've read posts that say not to use additives.
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I started having an issue when the weather changed here on the East this weekend. When I start my car in the morning the engine knocks for about 30 seconds and then stops. I also recently got an oil change at some local mechanic shop and wondered if that might be the issue. I checked the oil and it was stellar this morning but I'm not sure what kind they put in there. I would assume it's the required type.
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Several times my 6 month old Prius v Three refuses to start. I've taken it to the dealer 5 times now for an array of electrical issues. I was told the keyfob wireless signal isn't reaching the Power pushbutton on the dashboard & to not ever put the keyfob near my cell phone & to put the keyfob as close to the Power pushbutton as possible.
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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I recently got the EGR system in my 1998 Rav4 working (replaced VSV) after driving with it non-functioning for several years. Without the system functioning, the engine ran great, but fuel efficiency suffered. Now, when the engine is warm only, the engine knocks and lugs between 1000 and 2000RPMs. This usually occurs right when I shift into 2nd gear. There are no engine trouble codes.
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My wife's 2004 Mercury Sable broke down on the highway last night. We had it towed to the nearest Ford Dealership and are awaiting the official diagnosis. I am 99% sure it is transmission, as the engine didn't die, but zero of engines power is reaching tires in any gear.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3l with an aftermarket alarm. I can't read what the third letter is on the decal MV? 2000 Modular Vehicle Security. I added a pic of the alarm decal below. The key fob it had was aftermarket for the alarm and stopped working about a year ago. Today I unlocked the drivers door with the key and the lights started flashing and I can hear a clicking sound. It done this a few times back when the key fob still worked and I just kept hitting lock and unlock until it finally stopped. It won't let me start the truck at all and I have tried unhooking the batteries with no luck.
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My 2007 V6 Sonata Has a very loud clatter when I start it. It will last anywhere from 2-5 seconds then it usually goes away. It almost sounds like a baseball card hitting the spokes of a bicycle. It's within warranty and last time I took it to the dealer they first claimed they couldn't hear it. Then they changed their story and said that it was the belts warming up, and they said this is a perfectly normal sound for Hyundais to make. My fiance's family has owned 3 Hyundais and they have never had such noise come from any of there vehicles. Both of my other cars never sound like this.
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