Ford :: 1997 Taurus GL Refuses To Start
Feb 1, 2014
My Taurus has developed a problem where it refuses to start. When I try to start it, it just cranks over and over and over. I keep trying till the battery starts getting weak. I charge up the battery and then try it again with no luck. A neighbor suggested I get a piece of lumber and gently pound on the gas tank suggesting it might be a stuck fuel pump problem [whatever that means!]. Actually it worked once but after I drove the car all day doing errands the next morning was the same problem. That was three weeks ago.
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My daughter has a 1997 Taurus SHO and it's been running pretty well until this morning when a turn of the key failed to start the engine. The battery is fully charged but when she turns the key, we get the click from several places under the hood, including the starter relay. I'm pretty sure it's the starter relay, it's inside of the fuse box, is identified as "starter" on the guide printed inside of the cover and is black plastic about 1.5 inches square. The windows, radio, horn and all of the other accessories work, but no reaction to the key.
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I have recently acquired a 1997 F250 LD (same body as the 150)the exhaust system is screwed(currently rebuilding it due to some IDIOT trying to cut out the cats with a grinder and cutoff wheel) and it won't idle (runs alright with a little finessing of the throttle) but after I get the exhaust rebuilt to where the O2 sensors get the proper flow I was going to clean the IAC valve but was wondering if the exhaust not feeding right would cause idle issues a well. Put things in a nutshell...the truck will run but will not idle. IAC Probs, Exhaust Probs, or combination of both??
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Why I am getting such terrible gas mileage? The truck refuses to move off of 12 mpg. I made a 500 mile trip half of it at 70 mph running 2100 rpm. And when I filled up I calculated out 11.3 mpg. After that fill up hopped on the interstate and was running around 85 @ 2600 rpm expecting my mileage to drop even lower. Then i was on two lane hwy again constantly passing people and it only dropped to 11.1 mpg. Now no matter how easy I drive or how hard I drive it will not move over 12 mpg. Whether the tank is 100% hwy or 50/50. Its a 5 spd manual 4x4 with no modifications running the 4.6 v8. I just swapped air filters to a K&N and still no change.
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I have an 03 F-150 XLT with the 6 disc changer, and I can't get the dang thing to eject. It plays most of the cds fine (sometimes it won't play a certain couple of the six that are in the changer, and reads "CD ERROR" after trying to play the disc for a moment) but it refuses to eject any of the discs. It pushes them out just a little bit and then errors. I've attempted to pull the disc out once its pushed itself out a little, but it won't release them.
I then have to mess with it for several minutes to get it to retake the disc and quit pushing it out again, and then a few more to quit erroring when I change it to disc. I've tried to disconnect the battery (I read in a forum that that sometimes works) but to no avail. I know its a frequent issue with these. I figure I can pull the stereo out and take it apart to get the discs, but how can I fix the issue for good?
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On Saturday afternoon of Labor Day weekend my dad's 2003 Ford F250 "died" in the parking lot at my work. It had been running fine all morning, but then I stopped by work, and when I went to leave it barely started, ran for a few seconds at a rough idle (presumably on whatever fuel was already in the system), then died and would not restart. Turned over strongly (new battery a few months ago) but no ignition. Checked the fuses and fuel pump interrupt switch, but everything was fine. Had just put 15 gallons of gas in earlier in the week so I "knew" that wasn't the problem.
When I had it towed to my mechanic. He didn't get a chance to look at it until the weekend, and called me Monday to say that it started just fine for him all weekend, but it could use some gas. I knew I should still have 12-15 gallons in there, so we came to the conclusion that someone had siphoned my gas. Monday night I picked it up, feeling dumb for not checking that more carefully, and drove to the gas station. Sure enough, the gauge registered "E" and the low fuel light was illuminated. Put in 8 gallons. Started the truck and the gauge popped up to 3/4 tank.
8 gallons is NOT 3/4 of a 32 gallon tank. It's 1/4. The original fuel was still in there! On the way home from the gas station I stopped by work to load up the lumber I had to leave there the first time it died and--you guessed it--died like before. This time the gauge definitely read 3/4 tank with the key on, so the problem was not low fuel. I didn't want to pay to have it towed again, so my mechanic said he'd come look at it when he got time. I tried to start it a few times throughout the week and on Saturday it started right up and ran strong all the way to his shop, where it continued to start every time we tried it. It could be the crank position sensor, but the confusing part is the low fuel indication.
Could the fuel gauge have gotten stuck when the truck was was pulled up on the rollback? And would it have stayed like that all the way to the gas station? I also don't think it's the fuel pump because it runs so strongly when it does start. The second time it died the gauge still read 3/4 tank so I don't think it's related. The mechanic can't fix a problem he can't reproduce, and I really need the truck to pull my 3,000lb landscape trailer on the weekends. My 2000 Wrangler isn't exactly ideal for the job! Oh yeah, the truck is stock, 5.4L gas, off-road package, tow package, extended cab, long box, auto trans, 85K miles.
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I am the owner of a 1992 ford ranger 4.0 that refuses to start. She turns over, but theres no pressure coming out of the fuel rack/valve. Might be the fuel pump but it started with a little boost about a month ago and now nothing. Head gasket and transmission have been tuned up as well! I've also checked the power distribution box, and spark plugs both seem to be doing thier job! What am i missing?!
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I have a 91 Ranger 4cyl. Tune up about 2 months ago. Mileage about 178,000. When the temperature gets below about 45 degrees, the truck will not start. It cranks like the battery has plenty of juice but refuses to start. Once the temp warms up, the truck will start first crank.
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I have a 99 Ford Contour that sporadically refuses to start. The engine will turn over (is that the right term?), but it won't "catch," for lack of a better way to put it. It seems to happen more frequently when the gas gauge is at 1/4 of a tank or below. A dealership told me it was the fuel pump need repair (more than the car is worth), but a second opinion from an independent garage says it might not be the fuel pump.
(Though they don't know what is causing the issue because, of course, it never behaves the same when the mechanic drives it). The second issue, which may or may not be related, is the vibration in the car. It happens only if I turn on the AC or heat. And I do mean shake - it's very noticeable and loud. The motor mount has been checked and that's not the issue.
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I have a 5.0 Explorer 1998 and it has a problem for which I cannot find a definite solution, everyone says a different thing. The problem is that when the weather is hot, sometimes the engine does a strange thing. You ride the car for some time, especially if you do it on a high speed so the engine is really hot (but no overheating symptoms) - and then you kill the engine and leave it for a few minutes - to walk into a store, let's say.
After that you attempt to start the engine... sometimes it starts, but there were several times when it refused to catch, it cranks, at first tries to start, but stalls... then it just cranks without even attempting to start. And I had one occasion when it stopped working right in the middle of the road while crawling in traffic, but it was really HOT outside. Luckily, all other cases were in our town, so I could at least walk home. So, the problem seems to overheating of something, as in normal or cold weather it never happens. And every time, after the car is left to stay in place for some time, an hour or more, cannot say exactly - it starts perfectly!
I am really tried of this and want to eliminate the reason. But I am hearing so many different opinions about this problem. I thought that it could be the overheating of the fuel pump. But then it would stop working while moving, not after you shut the engine off and the pump cannot be still working and overheating. The only place where the heat can build up when you stop and turn the engine off is under the hood, as the fan stops, the coolant pump stops and the air isn't blowing as the car isn't moving. But the pump is in the tank! And I never ride on empty fuel tank, I always keep some level, lately I tried to keep it even higher, but yesterday it refused to start when the tank was almost half-full. Also, if it was just dying - a dying fuel pump gives certain symptoms like slow acceleration, engine shaking and trying to stall when you press the pedal, sudden stalling, uneven idling etc. In this case, nothing like this. The car's behavior is absolutely normal, acceleration good, normal idle. It happens ONLY under certain conditions, involving heat.
Other people say that it can be due to low pressure in the fuel ramp and the gasoline is starting to boil at some moment, when the temperature under the hood rises to a certain point. As a reason they name the pump (but as I said, I doubt it) or the fuel pressure control valve - don't know its exact name, it's a valve which maintains a certain pressure in the fuel ramp and releases excessive pressure by returning some fuel to the tank. However, when this valve gets stuck and doesn't maintain pressure, it mostly influences the cold start, as the fuel pressure drops and you have to crank for a long time while the pump is building the pressure again. But my car has never had any problems with the cold start, it's always instantaneous. Also, when this problem occurs and you start the engine after it cools down, it catches instantly which means THERE IS pressure in the ramp. So I don't believe in low pressure, gasoline boiling and resulting vapor jams.
And finally, I read that it may be caused by defective/dying engine temperature or crankshaft position sensors. As for the temp sensor, I will replace it tomorrow anyway. I am also thinking of having a look at the crankshaft sensor, where it's located on 5.0 V8?
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 psd. it cranks and will not start, it use to crank for a bit of time and then start and now it refuses to start. If I leave the key in start position for like 30 seconds it use start and now it wont. I am thinking it is something with the glow plugs?
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I've got a 99 dodge ram 1500 sport, with nearly 250k miles logged, and it refused to start up this morning.
It ran fine this past friday, aside from a horrible squealing noise it made. It has power, its getting fuel, and it coughs and sputters like it wants to start, but it refuses. How do I get this thing to come back to life?
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96 intrepid, 3.5 motor. Runs fine, no loss of power or odd behavior but will just die. Like flipping a switch. Refuses to start. I checked fuel pressure and it's good. No codes. Does this motor have a MAF? Sure can't find one. It has the odd split intake plenum. 1 air box but 2 separate inlet ducts to each side of motor. The motor is not transverse. It has 2 throttle bodies on the firewall side of motor with a shaft that runs between them. So eventually it starts. Idles fine. I watch it idle. And click, it shuts off.
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Occasionally, when restarting my 2003 Santa Fe V6,it refuses to idle. If I manually press on accelerator pedal it will start and run and after a few moments it will run fine. This seems to happen more often in high temps i.e., deserts.
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Love the car, but in the last 2-3 three weeks it just randomly refuses to start. Turns over fine but seems like its not getting fuel. It is most likely a relay that needs replacing. This relay apparently controls the computer and the fuel pump. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place. I hardly dare drive my car anywhere now for fear It will not start when time to go home.
In the meantime, I seem to be able to get the faulty relay to function (if that really is the problem here), by making sure lights and radio are turned off, and by turning ignition key just one click (listening to be sure fuel pump has loaded the lines) before actually starting the car. No point in running battery low cranking engine over and over, waiting for that magic moment when the car suddenly starts like there was never any problem at all.
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My Phaeton is experiencing issues with the temp sensor. After running the car for a while, then a brief stop (10 minutes or less) it refuses to start. (It cranks but does not start) After a while, it starts fine. No check engine light comes up.
A quick Vagcom read (not the dealer's Vagcom) does show the temperature sensor is reading really low temperatures where it shouldn't. We think this temp sensor gone awry is messing with the fuel mix.
So in the parts book, we see only one temp sensor coming off the radiator, is this a 'easy' fix or do I need the dealer involved?
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I have a '94 XJS Jaguar that has been having repeated issues starting and has lately been putting out a dramatic plume of grey smoke each time has actually succeeded in starting. Currently, the engine refuses to turnover (or even give the usual "crank"); however, all the electrics in the car - lights, radio etc - seem to work perfectly fine.
Attempts to jump the car have proved futile. Previous trips to the repair shop have included battery replacements, battery cable replacements, tightening of this, that and the other thing as well as a transmission cleaning, all to no avail. What the issue might be?
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Our Grand Am runs well when it decides to start! But occasionally when the key is turned all the way on, the starter may take a few minutes to engage, or not at all. Usually it just starts right up, but not every time, so it is not reliable. The key lock cylinder has been replaced.
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10 seconds after turning on the ignition key, all the indicators on the dash will turn off, except that the low engine oil and high anti-freeze temperature light keep flashing. The emergency signal will be on but not flashing. The car refuses to start.
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My car was fine when I left work (in a city) but after 30 or so highway miles (by the time I got home) my power steering had gone out. At home I saw that the belt had come off (but not broken). I had a friend of mine replace the tensioner (which was broken) when everything was put back together the car would no longer start, the engine sounds like it is going to start but then refuses to turn over. Doesn't seem to be a battery issue as it's fairly new and all the lights, etc come on. Checked the spark plugs and they are fine...seems like power coil...but I find it hard to believe that would be effected by the tensioner? Something that we might have missed?
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I bought a 2002 abt a year ago, and every 1000 miles I get the red triangle and the gas engine refuses to start. Initially it starts, then shuts down after a few seconds. Weird thing is, after the 5th or 6th attempt, the car starts normally and off I go. When I turn the key to "on" the check light goes on. This has never happened while I drive, only after the car has been driven and parked.
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