Ford :: 1993 - When Taking Key Out Of Ignition Alarm Goes Off
Nov 13, 2016
We have a 93 Grand marquis. For a while now sometimes when you take the key out of the ignition the alarm still goes off as if the key was still in it, but it's not. A couple of days ago that happened so I jiggled the ignition to get it to turn off the alarm. When we got back in the car I couldn't get the key all the way in the ignition, I had to keep moving the switch back and forth,finally I got it lined up and could start the car. We took it to the mechanic and he said it needs a cylinder and key. I asked if we could still use our key he said no but maybe. I said ok, can you get us a new key if we need it? He said no. I don't really need any of this nonsense so I was wondering, the ignition switch is working ok now, it just needs to be lined up at a certain spot to get the key out. I really can't afford the 200 dollars right now to fix it.
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Recently my 93 Ranger 4.0 has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. This only happens after the engine goes completely cold. I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine.
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My 93 ford explorer has a factory alarm. It went off this morning, 2am! in the rain. I tried the remote, nothing, tried the second remote, nothing. Honking and lights flashing, I disconnected the battery to calm the neighbors and hopefully reset everything. I also disconnected the horn. After reconnecting the battery, and waiting a few minutes, the alarm again triggered.
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just wondering what are the problems typically associated with a long start up. it took about 8-10 seconds from the time i put in the key fob to ignition. it was especially cold and windy today, so i know the cold had something to do with it.
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I own a Vw Phaeton 3.0 TDI 2004. A few days ago , everytime i take the ignition key of the car , the car 'dies' ( headlights , radio , doors , alarm... ) and it stops working for a couple of minutes. When i put the key again , the car starts working and everything works 100% but if i remove the key again , the car dies again. The car runs fine if i ride it a whole day , no problems at all. The following day , the car dies again. What's wrong with it?
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I'm Using Maruti Suzuki Swift Dzire. Till last month my car used to unlock doors automatically while taking the key out. Now the problem is :After turning off the ignition & taking the key off Car doors are not unlocking automatically. If doors are unlocked manually from inside by pressing unlock button situated in the car, doors are unlocking. If I unlock the doors manually and open the doors, I'm unable to lock the car with the remote key after closing the doors.
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I have a 93 taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL. After I start my car up with my foot on the brake it won't shift into gear from park. But if I pump the brakes a few times it will then go into gear. What is wrong with my car?
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I have honda civic 2005 Lx with 170,000 miles. I noticed increased RPM about 1.5 with cold start but no missfire. I attempted to take out ignition coils to see if genuine ones solve the issue. It is very little rainy today with high humidity. After I put new ignition coils, I noticed increased shaking with misfire. I have not touched anything except for putting in/out coils. I ensured the position and connection of the coils. Is this anything with humidity? I did it really quick without much exposure to the rain. How to resolve this issue? at least return to previous condition?
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152000 miles. Religious oil changes at 3000 miles. New plugs before this started.Drove about 60 miles on a warm day. Ran fine. Went to start it again, it seemed to be running on only 5 of 6 cylinders. Carefully limped it home. It did not overheat (stayed at normal temp) and the engine never died. The next day I pulled each spark plug and had a look. They all looked fine, none looked fouled. The dead cylinder was not obvious. Started it up, it ran great. This was an even hotter day, drove off to do errands. Probably drove 5 miles. Stopped, and when I started it up again, the miss was back! Went home, and while it was still running crummy, tried running it with one plug disconnected from the coilpack at a time, until I found the one that it didn't seem to matter if it was connected or not... cylinder #2. Later pulled that plug again, fine. Plug wire measure about 5K ohms on my meter, as its the shortest one. Sounds about right to me.
Today (its about 75 degrees) I bought a new coil pack and put it in. Ran beautifully. Warmed the car up, still ran nice. drove a few miles down to the freeway, ran great, got off at next exit. Proceed to run just perfect until I was slowing down for a light, then the miss came back.
Beyond checking the compression, what else might I try? I don't tolerate mechanics BTW, I do everything myself.
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I have a 1993 Sentra XE 1.6 / Automatic, and having problems starting it.(Once in a while).. When I try starting, I turn the ignition all the way to start but there's no response. All the light on the dashboard panel is all lit up but nothing happens, no sound at all. I've changed the Neutral switch, the Starter, and Ignition relay(Grey square) which is located at the fuse box engine side.... sometimes it will start and the car runs fine...smooth as a whistle... then when I re-start it again, the same problem occurs...I have to wait for about an hour or so, then when I try starting it again, it will start... I'm afraid to drive the car on a long trip, I'm afraid it might not start at all.. What to do next.. by the way, the car battery is good...
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I have a 1993 Sentra XE 1.6 Lit. Automatic and having problems starting it.(Once in a while).. When I try starting, I turn the ignition all the way to start but there's no response. All the light on the dashboard panel is all lit up but nothing happens, no sound at all. I've changed the Neutral switch, the Starter, and Ignition relay(Grey square) which is located at the fuse box engine side.... sometimes it will start and the car runs fine...smooth as a whistle... then when I re-start it again, the same problem occurs...I have to wait for about an hour or so, then when I try starting it again, it will start...I'm confused and it's driving me crazy. I'm afraid to drive the car on a long trip, I'm afraid it might not start at all.. What to do next.. by the way, the car battery is good...
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Today I came out of a store & my car started beeping the panic alarm. I don't carry the key fob with me, just a key. I unlocked the door, sat down, put the key in & turned the ignition. The lights all lit on the dashboard as normal but the car did not start. absolutely nothing. I was at a loss for what to do.
Fortunately, someone came out of the store & asked me if I needed a jump & explained what happened, and he said let me try something. He tried to start the car, then got out of it, locked the door, unlocked the door, sat back down & tried again. The car started right up.
The car is a 2014 Elantra SE with the Premium Package.
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I have a 2006 XC90 AWD 2.5L Turbo 85K miles. Tonight my school teacher wife went out after school to start the car and the key will not turn past the first detente. Lights, radio, etc work but the key will not turn.
Only error message on the screen is "Alarm System Service Required" but that has been on and off for almost two years.
I called the dealer and they said to tow it in and they would have to tear the steering column apart as the steering lock is broken...?!?
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New 2015 Mercedes E350 wagon ..... The day after I took delivery, I tried to open the new wagon's doors (it has a keyless feature) and nothing happened. I tried again and still nothing happened. I then took the smartkey out of my pocket and tried to click open the locks and nothing happened. I then took the ancillary key out of the smartkey and unlocked the car manually. This set off the alarm which would only stop when I closed the door and relocked the car.
Also, the car would not start. It was like I had broken in to the car. A few minutes later, while waiting for roadside assistance to speak with me, I tried the door handle again and discovered that the doors would now open keylessly. I have driven the car several times since the incident (which occurred yesterday) and it has not repeated the problem. What caused the problem?Is this a one time glitch or am I in danger of being stranded somewhere?
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So I had my hood open to check my oil, not a big deal for a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. When I shut the hood, the car decided to simultaneously lock, and now the horn/alarm is going off and the key fob won't unlock the car or disable the alarm. And the keys don't work in the door/trunk so I can't get inside. What I should do?
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How good the alarm on a B6 is. I mean, it goes off when the doors are opened and the alarm is on...but how easy is it to steal a Passat.
I wanna put a navi in and do a few things...but I just don't feel ok doing them and knowing I don't have a GREAT alarm.
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I went to a couple custom exhaust shops to see about duals for my 04 f150. they gave me a price all were different ranging from 250 to 480 for the same set up. Cat back flow master 44 series dual out the back. I asked them if they can take the cats off and they said no and it would lose performance. is this true? i saw a couple videos on youtube.com and there was some with no cats. I kinda want to get true duals. So is it possible or not for this truck.
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2000 with the 5.4 liter ... 263,000 miles ...
My old girl tends to spit and sputter especially when taking off from a stoplight. I put my foot in her and get the rpm's around 3000 and she starts acting right. Is it something more than say the obvious spark plugs or fuel additive??
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1998 F150 tries to start on its own. It starts and drives fine, then stop, take key out, wait few minutes then it tries to start on its own. I unhooked the battery cable.
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Just got done replacing a compressor, dryer, and orifice tube, flushed all hoses and the evaporator and condenser, blew everything out several times with compressed air, hooked up the vacuum pump and let it run for almost an hour and when I went to put in the new freon, it won't pull it into the system. Low side jumped up to 100psi when I opened the valve to the can and the high side is reading right about 100psi also but the freon is not flowing into the system. Without tearing everything back apart, I thought I would check what could be the problem. I jumped the low pressure switch and the compressor is running.
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My 1999 Saturn SL1 was running well. One evening, I started it up to go home, and it wasn't running well, and barely had power to make it the half mile home. It still starts up, but seems to miss in park and in gear. We tried spark plugs, wires, coils, catalytic converter, cylinder pressure, crankshaft position sensor, and fuel filter with no change in engine behavior. I think the EGR valve was looked at and passed. I hope it is not the fuel injectors as I put a cleaner in the fuel every so often. Could it be the Ignition Control Module, and is there a way to test the existing module? What else could it be, and how could I test it?
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