Ford :: 1983 V8 - RPM Limit Switch In Transmission Prevents Over Revving The Engine?
Aug 20, 2012
Its a good runner. It has lots of get-up-N-go until you get to 45-mph. Then it just loses interest.
It's a 1983 Ford F-150 King Cab Short Box with a 302? V8, a 5 speed manual transmission, 2 wheel drive & a heavy towing package complete with low speed rear end, over-load springs & a 800 tongue Weight rear bumper. It has about 116,000 miles (long haul miles) on it.
The previous owner said it had had this problem before, and new spark plugs fixed it. I don't know, but it seems more like a fuel or vacuum problem. It behaves just like one of those rental truck governors. Plenty of power up to a preset RPM, then blah.
A mechanic I know said it may be a RPM limit switch in the transmission that prevents over revving the engine. Is he talking straight?
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I have a 2007 SE with 3.3L and Auto transmission. 70k miles, regular service performed.
Starting a few months back, I've noticed a low volume hum/whine coming from the engine compartment. I notice it more when I'm in drive, but also notice it to a lesser degree when in park and revving. In drive, the sound gets just a bit louder and higher pitch, until shifts, then lowers at low RPM, growing again as revs move up.
since it happens in park, I'm thinking it is engine related, not transmission? (I usually change oil around 4k, sometimes as high as 5k)...
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My transmission had no slipping was running fine . Oil level was ok , recently added 1/2 quart , cause it has some small leaks. I go to drive away other day and none of the drive gears or reverse would engage. Mechanic thinks transmission locked up . Kind of hard to condemn my old baby considering it was running fine .
Would the TCC solenoid do this or the ECU ? I recently reinstalled the bar going to starter that was disconnected for 5+ years because i was having slow crank issues. This transmission problem occurred 2 days later. I am thinking it might have made the ECU unit go bad , since the starter had not a good ground for so long ?
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83' Toyota Celica GT with an automatic transmission. The problem that we are having is that we can't get it to turn over. All it wants to do is click at us. As far as we both can tell all cables and wiring harnesses are plugged in and there aren't any loose wires. We've had the alternator and starter checked and they both passed. Also there is a new battery with new terminals installed so that's not going to be the problem. In all of the reading that I've done I keep hearing about a neutral start switch. What is it? And where is it located? I believe I've found a spot where it should be but there isn't anything there. And we've put all of the parts in the car back where they go.
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I have a 89 f250 4x4 351W FI C6 Auto, recently I was having problems with the trans it was revving up real high before it went into 2nd. I dropped the pan and the valve body to make sure their were no shavings or any other debris. Everything ok.
So I replaced the valve modulator and the line that goes to the intake, replaced the MLPS and adjusted the intermediate band. I put it all back together and NOW it won't even go in gear. Did I hook up the valve body wrong? If so what is the proper way of doing it?
I only unbolted the valve body from the trans I didn't take it apart. I was also wondering whats up with the color strips on the modulator I have purple right now was i suppose to have different color? Could the pin for the modulator not be in place? I added 3 quarts is that to much or not enough?
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finding out what is wrong with my Taurus. I have searched all over the internet not finding any posts about a similar problem. When driving after I turn past a certain point only to the left not to the right. The car slips into neutral revving, then once Ive straitened out somewhere along the wheel turning radius it re-engages in gear and lurches forward. The car drives fine and shifts smoothly except this.
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I have a 1983 E350 RV with a 460 engine. It would appear that many "Mechanics" have altered the wiring in different ways. That being said I think the charging and starting electrics are fairly untouched. My issue is that once it has been running for a while the interior lights start to fluctuate so does the radio display. The AC fan speeds up and slows down and I feel like there is not enough gas being pumped up too due to some coughing and sputtering. When I press the brakes the radio stops playing and if I have the AC on it gets worse. Today I changed the voltage regulator and it made no difference. This vehicle has two batteries, one for starting the van like normal and one to run the coach part. The alternator charges both. I think it must be a bad ground somewhere but not sure where to start.
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Car runs and idles good until I turn on lights or fan rpm jump up about 500 to 700 above normal much worst with both on 1000 1500 and fluctuates. Engine runs rough the higher the rpm the rougher.
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What this code is about it?? 5784 sporadic 001-upper limit exceed
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The SKS key system is pretty cool -- you can never lock your keys in the car because so long as the keys are in the car, you can open the door. I like that. But what's to stop an intruder coming in at say a stoplight? Can you lock them out? I'm probably missing something obvious here.
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I am having a very frustrating problem with my 2010 Honda Civic. I have had the anti-theft immobilizer unit activate on me 3 different times now, preventing me from starting the car. The electronics in the dash and the indoor lights turn on like normal, the engine will turn over fully as it tries to start (it will even start for a second before the immobilizer turns the ignition off if I put the key in and turn it fast enough). The first time it happened I did not realize it was the immobilizer and attempted to jump it, to no avail.
Had to go to the dealership to get a dummy key with no fob attached to it (there is a chip in the fob that communicates that the immobilizer unit recognizes (or doesn't recognize in this case) and a brake code to enter to get the thing started and back to the dealership. I left it there for them to service, only to have them call me a few hours later and say it started up just fine. The keys weren't the problem, the battery wasn't the problem, they couldn't tell me anything was wrong with it. They didn't charge me for it.
About a year passes and happens to me again last week, stranded in between Austin and San Antonio at a gas station. Tow home, get brake code from dealer, drop off at dealer for service, dealer calls back hours later and can't find anything wrong. Says they scanned the immobilizer unit but came up with nothing. Now it has happened again this morning, this time I got it towed straight there so they can see that the immobilizer has it locked down and maybe they can see something that wasn't apparent last time. I will find out tomorrow what they find.
Faulty Honda immobilizer unit?The battery in the key fobs shouldn't be the issue, as they unlock the car and function properly when the immobilizer unit hasn't thrown a fit. The battery may be the culprit, as I had to get a jump for leaving my hazards on for an afternoon, but I am doubting that since there is no dimming or other noticeable differences with the dash. The tech liaison theorized it might be an A/C relay but I don't have too much faith in his theories since they didn't get it right the first two times.
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I have a 91 ranger with the 3.0 engine. Recently the engine was not reving up when i stepped on the gas. But, it kept running and i got home. Then one day it just wouldn't start after i just shut it off. I've changed the distributor cap and rotor,fuel pump and filter.I have spark to all 6 plugs and good fuel pressure to the fuel rail. I'm leaning toward the timing. Last night I found the harmonic balancer will just spin freely. Will this stop it from firing?If it is the timing, how do I find tdc and where is the # 1 firing position on the distributor cap(no markings)?
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I have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
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Today, I was parking the '05 Prius and noticed the gear shift stuck in the drive position instead of the usual "pop back" you experience when you put it in drive. The park button woud not engage. The same thing happens in reverse.
The dealer said they have had to replace the gear shift on a bunch of cars with this sticky gear shift problem.
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I own a Ford Ranger 2003, 5spd 6 cyl. My problem is when I'm driving and the engine is revving above 3000 rom's. It begins to sputter and buck as if the engine is running out of gas. It only lasts a few seconds. It ends as quickly as it starts. It does not occur each time when driving above 3000 rpms. My mechanic took the truck for a test ride and of course he could not find anything wrong. His advise was to wait until it got worse. I would rather solve the problem now. It is difficult and dangerous when trying to pass vehicles on the road.
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This truck has been giving us problems off and on for a while now. Whenever I am sitting at a stop light for example and the truck is in drive but I have my foot on the brakes it acts like it's trying to lunge forward and the engine is revving and shaking the whole truck. My husband just drove it this morning and now whenever it gets really wet outside the truck doesn't want to go anywhere. He said he was flooring it and he was only going about 20mph and the engine looked to be shaking bad. I have no clue what could be going on?
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Yesterday after about a 2hr drive as soon as I got off on the interstate exit and started to slow down my Explorer made this horrible sound that almost sounded like a power drill or the engine over revving. Then it did it every time I would slow down for anything after that. At first I thought it may have been the transmission so I took straight to a tranny shop, and by the time they got around to looking at it (several hours later) they said they could not find anything wrong with it and could not reproduce the noise. So I started driving home and about an hour into the drive it started doing it again. It only makes the noise when you take your foot off the gas. As soon as you touch the gas pedal it immediately stops. Someone told me it may be the bearings in the tension pulley, does this make sense ?
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I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6L Automatic.
Yesterday it started acting up on the freeway. I was driving about 50 during traffic hour when it started revving. I got off the freeway and moved to 35mph on surface streets, the revving continued at lower speeds but much worse (4-5k rpms going 10-15mpg). Doesn't seem to do it in idle or park. If i shut the car off it'll drive fine for a while then start acting up but when I was driving, after awhile, it did return to normal.
What could cause the problem? TPS? Transmission? Sensor of some sort?
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1995 3.0L 6 Cylinder Aero, aka the Green Goblin.
I've recently noticed that when I'm running between 50-65MPH the GG can't seem to decide whether it wants to stay in D or OD, I think. It's hard to tell whether or not the transmission is shifting or if it's just the engine revving. I don't have a tachometer but it's almost like the engine is revving /surges and then falls back, sometimes repeatedly. Could this be due to a vac line leak?
History- GG has 167K on it. I recently changed the oil, plugs, wires, distributor and air filter. Cleaned the MAF. Due to a failed AC compressor and low funds, had it removed and a bypass pulley installed. Needs a new pipe & muffler which is on the agenda.
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When in drive and cruising, I press the transmission control switch to turn off the O/D and do not get any 'OFF' illumination - what are the usual suspects?
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I have a 2004 F350 dually 4x4 5spd/wod tranny. The day after I bought the truck (Nov 2013) the tow/haul switch quit working (light in instrument panel/not on end of shift lever). I need info/direction/instruction on replacing the lever switch. I have not actually utilized the tow/haul function but will do so 80% of the time starting in the spring. I bought the truck exclusively to haul a 4 horse/living quarters gooseneck trailer (10,500 lb empty; 16,500 lb loaded).
I have no reason to believe the light is burnt out, so I will replace the shift lever switch and see if the light will operate again.
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