Ford :: 1967 Ranchero Stalls When Gas Is Given
Feb 12, 2012
My 289 has had the following done: Rebuilt and cleaned the Carb, inside and out. Dropped the tank, acid bath cleaned and sealed Cleaned and restored the sending unit All new gas line filters (twice) for a total of 4 new filters, the gas is pristine by the time it get to carb. new points, new condenser, new plugs, new rotor... all gaped correctly (checked twice) new oil, new filter. Brand new fuel pump. Checked and Tightened and Re-Tightened all the bolts, plugs wire, bolts nuts.
The car will sit there and Idle if I don't touch anything, but stalls when I give it gas. I have also tried to check for vacuum leaks using both the carb cleaner way AND the propane method. Now I will say that both sides of my exhaust manifold pipes are falling off, slightly so it is hard to hear for vacuum leaks. Would that cause a car to stall? or Am I missing a very simple step?
67' Ford Ranchero (289 V8)
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I just picked up a 1978 ranchero, and the steering wheel seems very loose. Lots of play in it.
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I cannot find specs for Points on my truck. My dad use to set them using a match book cover. Not that talented! Should condenser automatically be changed with points. 352 engine FYI
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This car has me stumped I've got a 67 mustang that is overheating only while driving I've replaced the radiator new 180 thermostat facing the proper way bypassed the heater core replaced the head gasket flushed the cooling system but after running vehicle for ten to fifteen minutes one side of the block is reading 178 degrees the other side is reading 240 in lost.
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I have a 1967 Ford Mustang. I drive in mainly on the weekends. The carb is rebuilt within the last six months. I installed a new alternator about a month ago. The battery was leaking and so the car stopped running one day. I just put in a brand new battery. It still won't start. It feels like it's trying to start but just won't turn over. I did clean the terminals and lubricated them as well when I installed the new battery.
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I have a 67 Econoline supervan, and have been getting a grinding noise out of the rear end at certain rpm's. It's only under heavy load, when I'm first accelerating, that the noise comes out. Now here's the question, is this the wheel bearings, or my rear differential in dire need of attention? Now, the only thing I've done so far to remedy it is change the differential oil, to no avail.
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I have a fuel pump I want to install I want to hook this thing up on a switch inside the cabin to be used as kind of a security device, but I am hoping I can wire it into the ignition as well.... I want the pump to activate when the ignition is turned on but only if the (hidden from view) switch is in the "on" position. Not sure if all this is possible.
I have heard I ought to utilize a relay to avoid voltage loss at the pump. I have never hooked up a relay to anything before although I have heard of them being used. This system is being installed on a 1967 F250.
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I recently changed the clutch in my 1967 F 250, all was golden. This was about 5 months ago , just the other day when going from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a clang and popping feel. the truck was making similar noises before the clutch blew out causing me to change it last time.
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The transmission was rebuilt approximately 8,000 miles ago. It now shifts erratically instead of smoothly when you take off from a dead stop. Sometimes it will go from 1st to 3rd. When you come to a stop, it downshifts erratically also. The fluid level is correct. The truck is a 1967 GMC pick-up with 1969 350 engine. Transmission about the same year.
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I have a 67 chevelle and it runs great but after driving it a while it starts backfiring. I think it is when it gets hot, is this possible and why is it running hot. It is a straight 6. 3 on a tree. Smaller engine like a 250 or something. Original engine and everything. I have had the car since I was 16, now I am 40. Somehow I still don't know how to fix it.
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I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
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I have a 1967 Porsche 912. Today it was being a bit difficult getting fired up. Third time was the charm, but once in gear it had no power at all. The tachometer was around 3.5k in first before it even found the 10mph neighborhood ad took its sweet time to get there when shifting into second the car died. I turned her right around an put her to bed. I am thinking carburetor...
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I have a 1967 Cutlass. She ran great yesterday. Today she won't start. I have spark coming out of the coil but no spark going to the plugs. Plugs and plug wires test good as well.
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My mechanic put in a button starter which works pretty good. It is "touchy" and I need to hit the gas just right to get it to catch. Once it starts it runs beautifully but the battery seems to drain instead of charge while driving. When I turn the car off,and then try to start it again, the battery sounds really low, and often dies before I can get it to turn over again. It fires right up with the first sign of a jump. The mechanic has looked for an ignition (says he cant find the right one). Other people have suggested an alternator or voltage regulator....or a short somewhere.
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When I turn my headlights on idle the motor kills. At higher RPM engine still runs and lights will start to blink.
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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i own a 67 old cutlass supreme and the fuel gauge, as you turn off the car goes down to 3/4 of a tank, when you start it up it goes to full. But the car is really empty! That is the only reading I get, no matter how much gas I have. I replaced the sending unit and I cleaned the ground wire, it still does the same.
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The engine cranks and tries to start when the battery is connected. It does this automatically, you don't even need the key or ignition to be turned on. The remote selonoid has been replaced so has the starter. The car does start and run when you let it but the starter remains engaged so its LOUD. I have bypassed the ignition switch by disconnecting it entirely, however the car still cranks and wants to turn on when the battery is connected.
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I have a 1992 ford escort lx that I just got and it is a great car cheap on gas a great work car but the only thing is the av doesn't work. I can turn on the air to cool but when I turn on the ac my car stalls out. So my question : what the problem is?
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My 1999 ford taurus station wagon has recently been stalling out while I'm driving. It happens usually after a 30-40 minute drive on my way home from school. There is no warning the car sounds great, and none of the lights come on. The car tends to stall either when I've braked to slow down for a light or I've stopped in general. Also it takes anywhere from 30 minutes to and hour before I can restart the car, after the stall if I try to start it, it sounds like its trying to catch but it cant. My mechanic is unable to figure it out and we both don't want to just start swapping out parts needlessly. My car has a V6 is a front wheel drive and has 93529 miles on it.
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I have 2001 E350 Van. One quirk.... When I put the van in Reverse, the engine drops to very low RPM and nearly stalls. This does not happen in Drive.
Transmission is out for repair now for other reasons (for a damaged pump). What can cause this near stalling? What do I look for as far as cause & repair?
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