Ford :: 1967 Ranchero Stalls When Gas Is Given


Feb 12, 2012

My 289 has had the following done: Rebuilt and cleaned the Carb, inside and out. Dropped the tank, acid bath cleaned and sealed Cleaned and restored the sending unit All new gas line filters (twice) for a total of 4 new filters, the gas is pristine by the time it get to carb. new points, new condenser, new plugs, new rotor... all gaped correctly (checked twice) new oil, new filter. Brand new fuel pump. Checked and Tightened and Re-Tightened all the bolts, plugs wire, bolts nuts.

The car will sit there and Idle if I don't touch anything, but stalls when I give it gas. I have also tried to check for vacuum leaks using both the carb cleaner way AND the propane method. Now I will say that both sides of my exhaust manifold pipes are falling off, slightly so it is hard to hear for vacuum leaks. Would that cause a car to stall? or Am I missing a very simple step?

67' Ford Ranchero (289 V8)

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Ford - Mustang :: 1967 - Car Repeatedly Won't Start

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1967 - Installation Of External Electric Fuel Pump?

I have a fuel pump I want to install I want to hook this thing up on a switch inside the cabin to be used as kind of a security device, but I am hoping I can wire it into the ignition as well.... I want the pump to activate when the ignition is turned on but only if the (hidden from view) switch is in the "on" position. Not sure if all this is possible.

I have heard I ought to utilize a relay to avoid voltage loss at the pump. I have never hooked up a relay to anything before although I have heard of them being used. This system is being installed on a 1967 F250.

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Ford Transmission :: 1967 F250 - Clanging Noise And Popping Feel When Clutch Engages

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Gmc :: 1967 - Transmission Shifts Erratically And Go From 1st To 3rd?

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1967 F100 - Instrument Cluster Gauge Wiring

I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.

1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)

2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.

Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....

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Plymouth :: 1967 - Battery Seems To Drain Instead Of Charge While Driving

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Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Either Stalls Or Starts - Runs Rough And Then Stalls With No CEL - Water In Fuel?

We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.

The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.

Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.

Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.

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