Ford :: 1964 - Convertible Top Hydraulic System Malfunction
Mar 20, 2011
I have a 1964 Ford Falcon Convertible. I know one side of the hydraulic system leaks. Today, when I went to put the top back up the hydraulic, wouldn't lift the top. It took 2 people pulling hard and the hydraulic system on to get it to move enough to put it back up. Is there a way to disable the electrical part of the system and just lift it manually? If so, could one person do it? My son has an Eclipse and he can do his top manually.
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This morning, during a routine drive to work in my 2007 Toyota Prius, my instrument panel lit up with the brake light and ABS light. The car braked normally, although when I tested the anti-lock brakes in a parking lot, the car slid and the ABS did not engage. I brought it to a shop - they ran a diagnostic and came up with a Malfunction of the Hydraulic System - right rear. They said I need to take it to a dealer for repairs. This car has cost me a lot in repairs over the last year...and with 170,000 miles, I'm not willing to put in a lot more.
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I have a 2001 Saturn SL2, with a manual transmission. The clutch pedal recently gave up -- it goes to the floor with no resistance, and I can't shift. I understand that this car has a hydraulic clutch, and that the hydraulic system has failed. My mechanic says the whole transmission system should be replaced, (though he hasn't been able to look at the car 'cause it's stuck in my driveway!) Before I donate the car to charity, could the problem be anything simpler? Or is it a straight forward diagnosis?
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I got a 64 F100 with a 292 that I am thinking of installing a coolant overflow tank on to aliviate having to fill the radiator frequently.
The question being............Is it a sealed system or do I need to provide an air bleed to adjust for the presure change within the cylinder I intend to use?
I realise that thermal syphoning will return the coolant to the radiator but am unsure as to weather or not I need to allow the airspace to remain at atmospheric pressure.
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I believe my 2004 Ford Explorer has a blend door problem in the heating system. It won't stay open and makes a clicking sound constantly, thus providing no heat! In past discussions I found one that says this is a major fix. I can't afford to take it to a dealer. My brother is an "old style" mechanic who can work on older (50's,60's,70's)cars and is not familiar with new technology or electronics. Could a person do this job easily or should I sell it and get a newer car?
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My Ranger has been a great truck but over the last 18 months ther has been a intermitent problem with the fuel system. It would run out of fuel ( foaming spray to nothing at the fuel rail ) and if you let it sit it would start and run after 8 hrs to a couple of days. Now it is all the time. The last time I let it sit for a week in a parking lot and it started, let it warm up and turned it off to move my other truck and it would not start when I returned. I have changed the fuel pump 3 times, 2 fuel filters, relay and pressure reg. on fuel rail.
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with the V-6 SOHC that is stuttering and stalling when I try to accelerate. A very slight acceleration will get the vehicle moving, but anything coming close to normal gas pedal pressure causes immediate stuttering and/or stalling. Check Engine light came on when problem started yesterday.
Where is the EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid? I bought a code reader after beating my head against the truck all afternoon and got code "P1451 EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction". My Haynes book says on the left side frame rail... can't find anything along there that looks like it (based on picture from Rock Auto for replacement part) and found some people online talking about it being in the engine compartment on the passenger side...
Just crawled all over the truck and I think I found the charcoal canister, but couldn't trace it back to the vent solenoid... There was something right next to the canister, but again, it looked nothing like the replacement part listed on Rock Auto...
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I have a 64 Olds Cutlass. I drive it once a week or so. That means it sits most of the time. Lately it's been very damp and rainy. I've noticed that when I start the Olds up there is white smoke coming from the exhaust. This lasts about a minute or until the car warms up and I start driving. Then it disappears. Is this just condensation burning off or, I hope not, a blown head gasket? How can I tell the difference?
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I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
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My MIL came on the other night so I brought it to the dealer today for diagnosis.
Per tech, "Found 1 DTC P2181 for cooling system malfunction, checked measuring values, found thermostat sticking open.
Recommendation is to replace thermostat with housing." I have 95K miles on the car, original owner...first time in a long time to have an issue.
The SA indicated the thermostat replacement. The tech indicated the thermostat is in the front of the engine which is hard to access.
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When driving cool it runs great but as soon as temp gets to 205 degrees and idling, it start to bog down and shouts off. When engine cools it will start right up. It has a rubber gas line that feels very warm, we put a sleeve over rubber hose and didn't work.
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Our new '64 Corvair Turbo car had been running pretty smooth, but occasionally stalls and can be hard to start. There has been noticeable flooding out of the carb bowl (single barrel Carter going into turbo). It has an electric choke that seems to be working correctly. The choke butterfly is closed when cold and opens as it gets warm.
Friday we drove to next town and it ran perfectly smooth but stalled when we got there, was very hard to start and ran super rough all the way home. It would not idle, had to hand brake at stops to keep from dying. It was normal temprature (400 degrees). Choke was wide open.
The next morning I started it easy, choke on (closed), but when it got warm it stalled and died. Then flooded fuel out of bowl.
I am only guessing... but seem like carb is tuned to run cold with choke on and is either running terribly lean or rich once it is at temperature.
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I have a 1964 Lincoln Continental convertible that has an intermittent engine knock on the drivers’ side; it isn’t there when the engine is cold and does it only sporadically when it’s hot. The car was not driven for many years; when I bought it in 2010 the plates on the car expired in February 1974.
I’ve tried high octane fuel, lead additives, and heavier motor oil; the problem is a little better, but it still happens. What the cause and the solution is?
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I have some codes on my ranger 2000 here goes
P0141: o2 sensor heater circuit malfonction (bank 2 sensor 2 )
P0455: evaporative emission control system detected (large leak)
Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?
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Well after 8 weeks on owning this touareg this is the second warning light we have to deal with and also had the dead battery scenerio which took 2 trips for them to fix.. Man this is crappy for sure. I am busy at work and do not have time to search around so any info would be great about another TSB that I have to take in to the dealership or anything.
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This morning when I started up my car the coolant light flashed red, an audible warning chime sounded and the MFI read that I need to check the manual. Because the light was flashing, the manual says there is an engine coolant system malfunction and I need to take it to the dealer. The car was completely cold at the start, so I turned it off, then back on and there was no warning. I drove to work and the temperature gauge read right where it should be the whole way. This afternoon, when I started it up to go home the same thing happened. By the way, the car has only 4800 miles on it.
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I have the VSC light, ABS Light, BRAKE light all on.
Check VSC System, Check ABS System, Check Brake System, Brake Malfunction.
I went to start the car this morning, battery was dead. Jump Started, and all these messages came up.
I have disconnected the battery for a good 2 hours, still no luck. I charged the battery. So its starts right up now.
The Brake Pedal is really HARD. When you brake, the car leans to the front Right Side.
When I reconnected the battery, The Brake Pedal is soft, but is instantly hard when Started.
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One morning I took the car out to the mall. Right away I had the ESP light on and stayed on the whole time. Tried turning it off with the ESP button to no avail. Got to the mall and let her sit for a few hours. Came back out and started the car and now two light are on. The ESP and Exhaust system malfunction. Found a thread that had the exact same problem as I did. He said the Mass airflow sensor must be bad. So the next morning I popped my hood to find out that a little mouse had made its nest in the engine and had bitten into the wiring harness that lead the the Mass airflow sensor.
I tore apart the tape and found that only the red wire had been chewed all the way through . I soldered the wire back together and re-wrapped the tape. Couldn't find any else around the whole car that was tampered with so I thought I was good to go. Started the car and both light are still on..Drove it around a couple more times to see if that would take them warning light off, and still no go. So I am guess this has to be removed by the dealer is the only way to go?
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I have owned 64 Mercury Monterey since new. Power steering control valve was leaking. I replaced the original, control valve, power cylinder, pump and hoses with new parts. I bled system and now I do not have power steering at low speed as in when trying to park the car. Parts store exchanged new parts thinking one may hjave been defective and still same problem except this time the control valve leaked all the fluid from the cap that covers the spool adjusting nut. I don't know what to do??
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How to disassemble 4.0 hydraulic roller lifters? I have done this on sb chevy lifters, mine look squeezed together. They appear very high quality, no looseness, wear, etc.
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I've recently started popping up a random P2181 performance malfunction in cooling system.
It's so random and shows no signs of any other problems that I'm confused. Temp gets hot, stays exactly where it should be, 200. Never gets a tick hotter, or even close to above 200. Air works, heat works fine. No loss of power. It only seems to come on when I really put my foot down.
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